tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57852644454926369262024-03-06T05:07:04.875+01:00Krister Jonsson / IFMGA Mountainguide - MountainpassionKrister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.comBlogger248125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-55460241188841930022023-10-04T17:47:00.002+02:002023-10-04T17:49:56.094+02:00Klassiska repbroms tekniker<p> <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue";">Utbudet av repbromsar kan väl sägas ökat dramatiskt. Ibland till en höjd som närmast kan påstås osunt överdriven av företag som nästan anstränger sig allt för mycket. Vilket även inneburit återkallande av dessa produkter.</span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue";"> </span></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxL1xpI7CVllIVUBoNxlDAN5FG9NISTJXl02Uoaj-dlsyJszoRRhB8ZoqsJKoFvWZvmbIEr5RpsjR4GPGGwutjAxV4-jNzpAKcwcJdIh3ynsz1w-UpW7V2uFgWrfhsjiEOz4xCVgSK2K4nBU-MPWl-blm8-Ffikc3kvawtUPmXabR2duEJqn3DOhDWDRwf/s347/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.13.09.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="347" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxL1xpI7CVllIVUBoNxlDAN5FG9NISTJXl02Uoaj-dlsyJszoRRhB8ZoqsJKoFvWZvmbIEr5RpsjR4GPGGwutjAxV4-jNzpAKcwcJdIh3ynsz1w-UpW7V2uFgWrfhsjiEOz4xCVgSK2K4nBU-MPWl-blm8-Ffikc3kvawtUPmXabR2duEJqn3DOhDWDRwf/w400-h268/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.13.09.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BD Pilot och Mammut Smart 2.0</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><br /></p>
<p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Själv har jag ett par favoriter, för säkring av den som följer likväl av den som leder. </span></p>
<p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Och jag föredrar att bli säkrad pa led av en hjälplåsande sådan. Typ BD Pilot. </span></p>
<p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Okomplicerad och lätt. </span></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWJOp_eAx091z5J1M7cvNOwRAVBwcEgFak6dbidJbTtsabJxeTEfKMTKiUedqrAI2j0iuwD6y_ebPt47FnalVZD14RwguolD7Xnb6FvLZ85RNs6rMqq6fYiLkLZTaicNPyGU2Y2N8rHkIAu6e83BohJMjz1rFQRBM199sy_Um97IK-ZG-TYyrbeVSTPem/s618/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.27.40.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="457" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWJOp_eAx091z5J1M7cvNOwRAVBwcEgFak6dbidJbTtsabJxeTEfKMTKiUedqrAI2j0iuwD6y_ebPt47FnalVZD14RwguolD7Xnb6FvLZ85RNs6rMqq6fYiLkLZTaicNPyGU2Y2N8rHkIAu6e83BohJMjz1rFQRBM199sy_Um97IK-ZG-TYyrbeVSTPem/w296-h400/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.27.40.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HMS s<span style="text-align: left;">ä</span>kring med en extra karbin genom l<span style="text-align: left;">å</span>srepet<br />Med den s<span style="text-align: left;">å</span> hj<span style="text-align: left;">ä</span>lpl<span style="text-align: left;">å</span>ser den repet</td></tr></tbody></table><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><br /></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Men, ibland blir det ju fel och ”man” åker iväg utan vare sig den ena eller andra, i ren glömska. Så då får ”man” ta till äldre beprövade lösningar. <br />Som HMS och karbinbroms. <br />Men en HMS tvinnar ju rep och en karbinbroms är inte helt skottsäkert att säkra den som leder. <br />Så jag fördrar en karbinbroms för säkring av 2:an och en modifierad HMS för säkring av 1:an<br />Genom att klippa in en karbin i loopen på HMSen så blir det lättare att mata ut rep. Kan vara ett extra elände om repen är blöta. Dessutom tvinnar det mindre. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKKgVpswsAB8VusMeFYfXdhZB6FHpK6k1suj1eUNZoG1mRuoyD7r855eDMF1qBsbdrO-c432RDBC59VCvNBuq3CD0QGKPvv1ytW1Dy_0OtSle3VUsH-RjwTqAspuXBoXnWne6rCMVGiBKfuSOGFVIHZ7BRF32jSZzVqc5LPgZWLJfwTUFHxyM6BPfYlPy/s620/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.27.08.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="459" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKKgVpswsAB8VusMeFYfXdhZB6FHpK6k1suj1eUNZoG1mRuoyD7r855eDMF1qBsbdrO-c432RDBC59VCvNBuq3CD0QGKPvv1ytW1Dy_0OtSle3VUsH-RjwTqAspuXBoXnWne6rCMVGiBKfuSOGFVIHZ7BRF32jSZzVqc5LPgZWLJfwTUFHxyM6BPfYlPy/w296-h400/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.27.08.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Genom att dra ut repet genom den extra karbinen s<span style="text-align: left;">å</span> l<span style="text-align: left;">ö</span>per repet enklare<br />Dessutom, twinnar mindre </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAO0TTrTB3GP5n8hwfecL-rzPwNXnQ6ZESdzBAjvj9Z5t2xtKfIx8BSlvoUrVkRDkt0VEUCwGk81XZa07i6fuNeynri7FDSjPXdH-xp0tyRjYIGc401B3_mo-9qf7EY-68KIREUdSejjlycOw73k7UPrw9442AK4YJV3V4RiC1cbTfUIUAY8NhE9qi6MI/s616/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.27.27.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="462" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAO0TTrTB3GP5n8hwfecL-rzPwNXnQ6ZESdzBAjvj9Z5t2xtKfIx8BSlvoUrVkRDkt0VEUCwGk81XZa07i6fuNeynri7FDSjPXdH-xp0tyRjYIGc401B3_mo-9qf7EY-68KIREUdSejjlycOw73k7UPrw9442AK4YJV3V4RiC1cbTfUIUAY8NhE9qi6MI/w300-h400/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.27.27.png" width="300" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEASi7o-BZfsDGtL8GET-rhxQ4enuGMpEwSS20LvqZjpHxfIXfMJEZ75RYCZ5NOrdhgHbqx3BjMM0UyLfS5rdD5_loMUuIRF6Ce1-eIGh-QfqxvmFKaJiMYHGWJcPpb9MzV-QQjo7jjrdQ9oifxM9kEc8_bm72dZaJveUt1ZBuLltQ90SmoxJKQKVL2zh/s553/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.26.52.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="414" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEASi7o-BZfsDGtL8GET-rhxQ4enuGMpEwSS20LvqZjpHxfIXfMJEZ75RYCZ5NOrdhgHbqx3BjMM0UyLfS5rdD5_loMUuIRF6Ce1-eIGh-QfqxvmFKaJiMYHGWJcPpb9MzV-QQjo7jjrdQ9oifxM9kEc8_bm72dZaJveUt1ZBuLltQ90SmoxJKQKVL2zh/w300-h400/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202023-10-04%20kl.%2017.26.52.png" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">S<span style="text-align: left;">ä</span>kring med 2 karbiner<br /><span style="text-align: left;">L</span><span style="text-align: left;">å</span><span style="text-align: left;">t repet löpa genom b</span><span style="text-align: left;">å</span><span style="text-align: left;">da karbinerna och tillbaka genom </span><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span><span style="text-align: left;">den ena s</span><span style="text-align: left;">å</span><span style="text-align: left;"> repet hamnar emellan karbinerna</span><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px;"><br /></p>
<p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Och för descenten, firningen!?</span></p>
<p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Fira på ett rep och håll det andra på sidan så dom inte infiltrerar sig. </span></p>
<p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Även om man firar på ett tunnare twinn rep så blir friktionen nog. </span></p><p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;">// Jag </span>rekommenderar<span style="font-family: inherit;"> att tr</span></span>ä<span style="font-family: inherit;">na p</span>å<span style="font-family: inherit;"> dessa innan i en s</span>ä<span style="font-family: inherit;">ker </span>miljö innan!!</p>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-60834156278714110202022-08-09T15:28:00.001+02:002022-08-09T15:49:56.661+02:00the Jubilee expedition 2022<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7x2RLNywDhvyWQ90sPf6MaDauCShdH4OGK_BM5TowtNUltkAKfHTcuTK9xrtfIuu20SDpmGO2GpSaOXqMu37FQZeM8EnC02WdQIDkiCVOIpLX30lKwgujAPxsNJX6lg23T0El_ATG9RSMGbaq7Z3qv7DWi0IyfLZWz_IOGuyGW86WNSDbbv8VcLY9tA/s1252/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.38.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1252" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7x2RLNywDhvyWQ90sPf6MaDauCShdH4OGK_BM5TowtNUltkAKfHTcuTK9xrtfIuu20SDpmGO2GpSaOXqMu37FQZeM8EnC02WdQIDkiCVOIpLX30lKwgujAPxsNJX6lg23T0El_ATG9RSMGbaq7Z3qv7DWi0IyfLZWz_IOGuyGW86WNSDbbv8VcLY9tA/w640-h286/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.38.35.png" width="640" /></a></div><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Under Maj månad 2022, över 29 dgr,</span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"> gjorde vi, 6 st medlemmar i the Jubilee expedition 2022, en travers av en stor del av Svalbard på skidor. Med var sin välfylld pulka.</span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"> </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Hela äventyret organiserades av @jonaspaurell och Minou Hellgren. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">En arrangemang som tagit väl sina 2 år att pyssla ihop. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Grund tanken var att försöka upprepa den expedition som Erik Adolf Nordenskiöld gjorde för ganska precis 150 år sedan. Men på grund av de stora klimatförändringar som vi moderna människor har skapat och som så markant har tagit fart sedan industrialiseringen och som tenderar att bara öka för att rent av närmast skena. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Detta gjorde att vi kunde inte gå hela den rutt som gjordes då. Det går helt enkelt inte att på ett rimligt säkert sätt gå över till Nordost landet på Svalbard p g a packis och öppet vatten. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Så vi gjorde en alternativ rutt som fick justeras och uppdateras relativt frekvent. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlgXaWYuy7YP6JxgePIq4Xlh5hikc8m33GZWvRlWxypIhOpufZtfDr8oqeYVmLPIOSskAMk4RE4wB2ea6HxpJpChTMgQEKXko6UlRMCpLCWVc48viddF7nwKGy4zdJqrVicsX9TxhbtAexA19mU6aYwyiuhKa2jzzvKjA9EKGicwbxRzIS5l8D_BSh2A/s1100/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.37.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="1100" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlgXaWYuy7YP6JxgePIq4Xlh5hikc8m33GZWvRlWxypIhOpufZtfDr8oqeYVmLPIOSskAMk4RE4wB2ea6HxpJpChTMgQEKXko6UlRMCpLCWVc48viddF7nwKGy4zdJqrVicsX9TxhbtAexA19mU6aYwyiuhKa2jzzvKjA9EKGicwbxRzIS5l8D_BSh2A/w640-h360/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.37.40.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vår plan och uppgift var att dels se vad som fortfarande är möjligt att göra i området samt att mäta och ta med oss viss data över ett flertal av glaciärerna. Således hade vi två forskare på området med. För att föreviga hela utflykten så deltog två filmare/fotografer, några av de mest rutinerade inom området gällande skidor, natur och kunskap i att jobba i krävande miljöer. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Jag själv kom med för att försöka säkerställa att samtliga deltagare kom tillbaka i ett gott skick och helst utan obehagliga tillbud. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3i89asz7sx7VDJlecJDMAA8RxDDRWDal-VnN7Er2sQkC59Z4yP4Fyn1Dn2lW9GWJk37GctW5o274ZDYK_j-eLIauKbrD8YXqZ67wldJp9z--_uAxzgSDWvAh4ASWqf9jJeOkiiqBP5RxlZHTMLP5dGJKqhGdeQCyv1vZSkOt9TfSCePZ6Ms3Zce8EOw/s626/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.38.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="502" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3i89asz7sx7VDJlecJDMAA8RxDDRWDal-VnN7Er2sQkC59Z4yP4Fyn1Dn2lW9GWJk37GctW5o274ZDYK_j-eLIauKbrD8YXqZ67wldJp9z--_uAxzgSDWvAh4ASWqf9jJeOkiiqBP5RxlZHTMLP5dGJKqhGdeQCyv1vZSkOt9TfSCePZ6Ms3Zce8EOw/w514-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.38.18.png" width="514" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kartan över Spitzbergen med vår tänkta färdplan</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Det blev ett ytterst inspirerande jobb som krävde en stor del anpassningsförmåga, öppenhet och känsla för vad som var möjligt. Och en rejäl dos navigering i minst sagt intressant väder. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Som om inte havsis och glaciärer är krävande nog så tillkommer dessutom inslaget av isbjörn, som vi givetvis ville undvika konfrontation med in i det längsta. Detta bidrog också till en del justering av den ursprungliga planen. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicM_dt8luC6G1NZJX5-__tLTLM1-z5i--YDZs0LXC25HbWif774XwEyjFsQu8jemhQGiHJilK_rGpieYMBM2s_3SUbh890wTF8dbTrdKRDawjzp1SY52_uXMuZK9Jk1QWMjYbfOBPbw5O1Ci9Pip2iC5HX9jDa6iyXTZeUubyjWokaUMeWojq-7NUCtw/s624/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.37.51.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="350" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicM_dt8luC6G1NZJX5-__tLTLM1-z5i--YDZs0LXC25HbWif774XwEyjFsQu8jemhQGiHJilK_rGpieYMBM2s_3SUbh890wTF8dbTrdKRDawjzp1SY52_uXMuZK9Jk1QWMjYbfOBPbw5O1Ci9Pip2iC5HX9jDa6iyXTZeUubyjWokaUMeWojq-7NUCtw/w358-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.37.51.png" width="358" /></a></div><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Under expeditionen så upplevde vi fantastiska och dramatiska vyer, enorma glaciärer som tog dagar att passera. Storslagen kyla och brutala stormar, stormar som ibland varade i flera dagar i sträck där vi endast kunde lämna tältet för att se till varandra och förbättra stormskyddet. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vi hade goda möjligheter att pröva och testa vår utrustning till bristningsgränsen av vilka en del helt enkelt kollapsade och slutade fungera; tält, thermosar, kök, kastrullhandtag…kläder. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Men på det stora hela så klarade det mesta en relativt hård påfrestning. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vi hade bland annat behagliga nätter i våra Helsport sovsäckar. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Mitt CRUX tält, CRUX shadow SL var mitt lilla slott och gav ett synnerligen bekvämt, om än i sin litenhet, skydd. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ett bekvämt skydd i väder som bjöd på vind över 25m/s och ner till -28 grader. Men även en hel dag med regn och byvindar. Vi fick uppleva att gå från full vinter till en arktisk sommar. En sommar som gjorde det helt omöjligt att gå som planerat, på skidor hela vägen ut till Longyearbyn. Istället fick vi ta oss ner till Biliefjorden och där vi dag två nere vid havsisen, kunde ropa upp en passerande båt på radion och vi fick båtluffa tillbaka sista biten ut. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Totalt var vi ute i 29 dagar och gick från 79,8’ grader norr och nästan 300 km. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Alla kom tillbaka oskadade, förutom några frostbett och numba fingrar och tår. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Men en exit ut från Nordenskiölds breen som kom att ske i det sista av möjligt att göra fortsatt på skidor. Och utan att behöva bära vare sig skidor eller pulka. Något som kan beskrivas som mera tur än skicklighet. Men, det är aldrig fel med lite tur. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Och vi kunde unna oss, vissa mer än andra, en rejäl återkomst fest bland Longyearbyens barer. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZPlSBRejxP1o1g_shDocWS9Q2lYXahrPIGSl2OxI4bzhGhRFeJyAPFLxNe_ZvlGL8gk_JnnuBK-4ILeCy9rFS_49Bb1EeW1J2olw7kEqA1kez7HX1uuhJCGOsdUiywDYg7OaNKIZ_hyl0dkcq37e_SabqU3Oot9uyKgr49wjhPlHGDTFlTiO8PlcXzg/s618/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.38.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="458" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZPlSBRejxP1o1g_shDocWS9Q2lYXahrPIGSl2OxI4bzhGhRFeJyAPFLxNe_ZvlGL8gk_JnnuBK-4ILeCy9rFS_49Bb1EeW1J2olw7kEqA1kez7HX1uuhJCGOsdUiywDYg7OaNKIZ_hyl0dkcq37e_SabqU3Oot9uyKgr49wjhPlHGDTFlTiO8PlcXzg/w474-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-08-09%20kl.%2015.38.08.png" width="474" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Idag sitter jag helt plötsligt hemma och jag kan på många sätt redan sakna den fascinerande och behagliga dagsrytmen från Svalbard i den magiska midnattssolen. Dagarna fastblåst inne i tältet, natten under bar himmel nere på stranden, naturen..!</span><p></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">För er som vill se och ta del av allt så kommer det bl a att hållas en film- fotoutställning mars-februari 2023 på Färghuset i Stockholm. Filmvisningar kommer även att bli aktuella på ett flertal platser och plattformar. Håll utskick på #Jubilleexpedition2022. </span></p><p>
</p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;">Tills dess, håll till godo med knappa 30minuter av bilder och film sekvenser som på sitt sätt </span><span style="color: #454545;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);">sammanfattar</span></span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"> detta storslagna äventyr.</span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span><span style="color: #454545;">Deltagare <br /></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>jonaspaurell organisateur<br />•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ERIK HUSS - Climat team research<br />•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Minou Hellgren Organisateur<br />•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Susana Hancock - Climat team research<br />•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Martin Olson Photo & Film<br />•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Awi Rabelista Nijhof - Photo and Film</span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span>•</span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><span>Krister Jonsson - IFMGA Mountain guide / chef </span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">sécurité</span></span></h3><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">//</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Ett utdrag ur min dagbok som jag förde under dagarna, det fanns lite tid i tältet på kvällarna...</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">2/5 Måndag den andra maj. Alarmet ringer på bordet bredvid sängen, taxin ut till flyget är beställd till 04:45. En taxitur på morgonkvisten ut till Arlanda. 960 spänn på knappa timman med Taxi-Torsten, därefter incheck med SAS flight till Longyearbyen via Oslo. 30 dagar arktisk vinter expedition väntar. Bref; vi flyger till Longyearbyn, landar 14:40, tar oss till Hotellet för att packa utrustning för 28 dgr i tält. Avfärd är tänkt att gå dagen efter, 3/5, med skoter ut till Åsgardfonna, en sträcka på ca 350km. Därifrån ska vi med skidor och pulkor cirkla Mosselbukta halvön på Spitsbergens nordligaste spets upp till 80:e breddgraden via Polheim och ut till Verlegenhuken för att sen försöka korsa över till Nordaustlandet. Något vi redan vet inte går då Hinlopen Stretet inte längre fryser utan är mest öppet vatten med stora mängder packis. Dvs livsfarligt att passera. Istället väntar retur. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Allt gott så långt. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Om inte det vore för att jag börjar morgonen med att vrida knöt ur led, en gammal skada som ibland gör sig påmind. Och det händer nu!! Brukar vanligtvis gå tillbaka om jag bara sitter ner och låter musklerna runt knät slappna av. Något som tar mellan 5min till en halvtimma, men det finns ingen tid för nu. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Haltar halvhjälpligt runt i lägenheten ute vid Telefonplan och utan hjälp av min hustru så hade jag inte ens tagit mig till den väntande Taxi-Torsten. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Långt senare samma dag. Det har blivit kväll. Övriga gänget flänger stirrigt runt och packar och packar om i pulkorna. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Jag sitter lite vemodigt på hotellrummet med närmsta månadens sista öl med benet så avslappnat som möjligt. Telefonen ringer, det är min hustru. Tar en klunk, svarar och slår ett välriktat slag på utsidan knät, det hoppar tillbaka i läge!</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">3/5 Avförd Longyearbyen med Hurtigruten Newton tSvalbard. 7 skotrar, 13 personer och ca 1050kg utrustning. Med min skoter chaffis Robert lämnade vi Longyearbyn 10:15, körde knappa 10 min innan vår skoter gick sönder. Snabb avkastning och retur tillbaka för byte av fordon till en ny Lynx 800. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Korsade några magiska storslagna områden i växlande väder upp tilll dryga 1200möh och Nordensköldbreen där vi lade första depån för returen, depå lll.</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Forsatt upp över Trebreepasset och ner mot Veteranen. Passerande högsta toppen på Svalbard, den 1750 meter höga Newton toppen på vägen. Där vi får resan nästa haveri. Ett kälkfäste släpper med drag, krok och båge; allt. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sen upp över Himinbjorgfonna och Åsgardfonna där vi 11h senare anlände läger 1. Tåbreen på 79.80:e breddgraden </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Satte upp tältläger i lätt bris, ca -10grader och lätt snödrev. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Kvällskaffe och i säng med middag strax efter kl 00:00. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4/5 Vaknar upp ett flertal ggr under natten, lite svårt att slappna av och sova. Går ut 2ggr för att kolla ev Björn symptom. men båda gånger bara vind och lite björn stress. Kl 04:45 blir jag väkt av Erik som hör en björn cirkulera runt tälten och morrar. Det är Jonas som underhåller med högljutt snarkande. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vaknar och kliver upp 09;20.</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Tältdag </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">-10grader och stark bris, ca 7-8m/s</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">5/5 Strålande väder!! 3-5m/s och -10. Planen är att förflytta oss mot Polheim, Adolf-Axel Nordenskiölds övervintring under 2 år. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lite inledande vapenträning och sen sen avfärd ner Tåbreen mot Mosselbukta. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">På vägen undviker jag en enorm vindkanal som bildats vid en nunatak på Östra utlöparen av Tåbreen. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">En lång platt passage tar oss över till Mosselvatnet där vi lägger L2 på 100möh. </span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">En magisk kväll! Vindstilla och -5</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">
</span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Kvällstur ner mot bukta för att spana efter säl och ev björn som båda lyser med sin frånvaro. </span></p><div><br /></div><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Häng med!!</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="424" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kG_kUMiXwIc" width="510" youtube-src-id="kG_kUMiXwIc"></iframe></div><br /><div><b><i>// </i></b></div><div><b><i>Krister Jonsson - </i></b></div>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-17127666914803616682022-06-24T17:15:00.003+02:002022-06-24T17:15:45.813+02:00Keblines 2022<h2 style="text-align: left;"> An other winter has passed in the Lapland area of Kebnekaise</h2><div>This was one of the most snowy winters that I have experienced lately in this part of the world. Just amazing quantities of falling snow more or less every day from beginning of April and over 3 weeks, with cold temperature and stormy winds. Which made it just perfect for powder skiing.</div><div>The amount of snow wasn't a lot, but the quality and stability of the snowpack, tip top.</div><div>And, with this kind of weather it also kept the helicopters away, grounded cause of non flying weather!!</div><div>More of that in the future I hope. And, most likely as well cause of the ongoing climate changes</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfaVF8-c_Kqcj2X35aHcWuaQarF7JHbdCsnO8eho1pGw-EzqrGfN3cjd1-q4eUUTU_LN83nVfF9YH3EFYRMr75cdcm9iaU4KwFEcCYEvELG46EArNj1dIBpI-rsCN3F0II3CGcoqqVAa-DRUOK-VuAHpIqIqPq_LAoBBRJWewUZgNeNZOydAtG5fKz0A/s377/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.55.34.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="377" data-original-width="299" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfaVF8-c_Kqcj2X35aHcWuaQarF7JHbdCsnO8eho1pGw-EzqrGfN3cjd1-q4eUUTU_LN83nVfF9YH3EFYRMr75cdcm9iaU4KwFEcCYEvELG46EArNj1dIBpI-rsCN3F0II3CGcoqqVAa-DRUOK-VuAHpIqIqPq_LAoBBRJWewUZgNeNZOydAtG5fKz0A/w318-h400/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.55.34.png" width="318" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>One week before arriving in Kebnekaise the weather was more like spring time, melting snow, rain and even waves on the lake in Laddtjovagge which made it looking like full summer.</div><div>The snow mobile transport between Nikkaloukta and Keb was even cancelled for 3 days. Something that never has happened before already in the month of march.</div><div>But, then the temps dropped and it started to snow...</div><div><br /></div><div>This year my wife could join me, again, for helping me with the work to prepare the Keb Classic ski race.</div><div>The work to put up the course was quite demanding with all fresh snow making it a really hard work to carry up the ropes and all other equipment. </div><div>We also choose to make it a bit extra demanding, including the whole ridge of Toulpagorni, so we had a full on schedule and no time for off work skiing this time.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsLPaScdi84cXJ8IBh7sIOAKcAJiOopcKRaD3AxbUOO0nywdARQIOhS1-tbQOK3iPJHup-49qVhnlZt-yvGGovu-wIJyublA_xsBxqG3oU1fxAh7tpVRWSOCxOro2iw1kiVP-phBXapnSlMkhpWkyBRqEzIT_AWYUJY9ZwaVZjxzdZ_mFvH8RKQMLYg/s445/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.57.09.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="445" data-original-width="250" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsLPaScdi84cXJ8IBh7sIOAKcAJiOopcKRaD3AxbUOO0nywdARQIOhS1-tbQOK3iPJHup-49qVhnlZt-yvGGovu-wIJyublA_xsBxqG3oU1fxAh7tpVRWSOCxOro2iw1kiVP-phBXapnSlMkhpWkyBRqEzIT_AWYUJY9ZwaVZjxzdZ_mFvH8RKQMLYg/w360-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.57.09.png" width="360" /></a></div>But, finally I had one day between work and I could head out to try two lines that I hade seen since before.</div><div>One from Vierranvare, that was skied previously by one of the staff at "Sporten" in Keb.</div><div>This line took me to the valley between Toulpagorni and Singichokka. From where I had planned a new line on the steepest side facing East/ Northeast side of Singicohkka.</div><div>A quite demanding line that would involve some down climbing or probably a rappel.</div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The weather was with me and I could set off under a sunny sky and perfect temperature, a few minus degrees equipped with crampons, ice axe, 60m rappel rope and some stuff to make anchors with. </div><div>A pretty easy skinning took me quickly up to Vierranvare where, after some trouble to find the right couloir, I could start the descent down my first objective, The "Tryggve Couloir"</div><div>A quite steep but short entrance, some 55°, down to a more moderate section in a deep cut couloir of about 25° skiing and 550 vertical meters. At the exit it is probably no problem to just ski it out, with a good amount of snow. But this year I need to traverse out a bit to the left, steeping up with the skis, to a more open field which gave an easy sortir.</div><div>Unfortunately the snow pack was re-frozen and hard, except for the entrance. But a cool line indeed!</div><div>Well worth a Keb Line!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3E-We1Zy9xAKYkaPN0eww2ICCKa7oC0qoRkN0Mpa6Px2VKiOnmkWJ5FmcYwwZL9rTNKG5VYKK7p9kAE8_1elOYpOqbg2bmqyPElvmNSbI67WClAhQ1QPXDHk0hUKgGmU7tAqhr2wMLyqo1hLbApMtgBHipO-uLUTtE3e_mJPdBpMNtow70LZAeQTeQ/s413/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.56.45.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="305" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3E-We1Zy9xAKYkaPN0eww2ICCKa7oC0qoRkN0Mpa6Px2VKiOnmkWJ5FmcYwwZL9rTNKG5VYKK7p9kAE8_1elOYpOqbg2bmqyPElvmNSbI67WClAhQ1QPXDHk0hUKgGmU7tAqhr2wMLyqo1hLbApMtgBHipO-uLUTtE3e_mJPdBpMNtow70LZAeQTeQ/w472-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.56.45.png" width="472" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next I traversed the valley and started climbing up towards Singicohkka, or Sinnicohkka as it is also called in the Sami langue. I took the ledges and runnels west of "Silverfallet" and could find some easy but slow terrain. I brought 2 axes just in case and that was quite useful a few times.</div><div>From the top, 1704, its easy, but a bit scary, to find the start of the line. Looks more or less vertical but slower down once in the terrain.</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kcs3oqUOcZ24BqjjX8aA3qYirbl4OYvQWsw6nAWXTeePQ7SVBPjkRkonnP8ckzBIOQ-ftz1rjL4F4xFJYMgBZxu2cH3KsuDhdJ9J1qRcphqK5v03R1VbT2Bf-sUsxDWJKmEbHkFMCTEd9cJXu2Pq51ViIPxPQgBtw4wsYLDW5l4gjIYrPO9F8UTYKg/s447/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2017.03.57.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="447" data-original-width="214" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kcs3oqUOcZ24BqjjX8aA3qYirbl4OYvQWsw6nAWXTeePQ7SVBPjkRkonnP8ckzBIOQ-ftz1rjL4F4xFJYMgBZxu2cH3KsuDhdJ9J1qRcphqK5v03R1VbT2Bf-sUsxDWJKmEbHkFMCTEd9cJXu2Pq51ViIPxPQgBtw4wsYLDW5l4gjIYrPO9F8UTYKg/w306-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2017.03.57.png" width="306" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach with local skibums </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Steep exposed no fall skiing to start with. Then I chose to exit the couloir to the left to go more on the north facing side over some nice powder field, which ends in a rock face. </div><div>So, time for a rappel where I could arrange a piton and a sling around an rock. The rappel is about 20-25m, so I just made it on one rappel.</div><div>Then its easier terrain, still a bit steep to start with but all safe. Skiing, traversing out more skiers left and then to the bottom of Silverfallet.</div><div>An other great line with actually a 1000m vertical descent, not bad!</div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Keb lines 2022</b></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">Vierranvare - Tryggrännan </h4><div>Grade 3.1 / S3 / F</div><div>Short section of 55°</div><div>Equipment</div><div>Iceaxe / Crampons useful but not needed</div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Singicohkka - la Ligne</h4><div>Grade 5.4 / S6 / TD</div><div>Equipment</div><div>Iceaxe, crampons, harness, 60m rope ( I used 1x50, 1x30m 6mm ropes)</div><div>Extra slings/nuts/pitons for the rappel might be useful</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1fuzcMUmHTzeM84mm4vKSiHi6jpPcpMHz9KffGmKg_ejFQ8RhljZeHZQeE0gH1D_62EqUlLZ9pgtQbnsHjb6i5_BTFf0kZwp4ay_zvBx8Xxkr6I_0jMZbs3mzBX1kvEwpV3q983f4thQP96pXeyCnhwli5k7RKT5BQdaiAnCe8OcJKCIWZ4F3vnwqw/s385/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.56.33.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="385" data-original-width="307" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1fuzcMUmHTzeM84mm4vKSiHi6jpPcpMHz9KffGmKg_ejFQ8RhljZeHZQeE0gH1D_62EqUlLZ9pgtQbnsHjb6i5_BTFf0kZwp4ay_zvBx8Xxkr6I_0jMZbs3mzBX1kvEwpV3q983f4thQP96pXeyCnhwli5k7RKT5BQdaiAnCe8OcJKCIWZ4F3vnwqw/w510-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.56.33.png" width="510" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Steep terrain on Sinnicohkka</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd4KFHMj8KonTX_Yctl8ZVpJjSHlvTsoSvtI4d81QvFZzeocsHn4SzfQZu0AK0BnmAJ3OjWCyuyKWP3SDuwq7epS7HNmATY1bo-aLYeZfn8mk3mx8K_iqu7EzNjyson4HVoRQFIcaxC31FFipXSGivKboGjjeuneU8Ov6gc4_AYy1ls9IpeI9k9qfBQQ/s407/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.56.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="407" data-original-width="304" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd4KFHMj8KonTX_Yctl8ZVpJjSHlvTsoSvtI4d81QvFZzeocsHn4SzfQZu0AK0BnmAJ3OjWCyuyKWP3SDuwq7epS7HNmATY1bo-aLYeZfn8mk3mx8K_iqu7EzNjyson4HVoRQFIcaxC31FFipXSGivKboGjjeuneU8Ov6gc4_AYy1ls9IpeI9k9qfBQQ/w478-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.56.20.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Ligne - seen from Laddjuvággi</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGA37qspoAy_N67JePWgYTxbMoybxpR0kzxTSSr3KVtwS6Lstxyu9Herjdm7MRUaldeBXR-Uq3O0dWZ0cE8l6JZpSa1A2VliGD9si-F2c0qaiBVgCsiHCURGxDbW54TIm3U695ujGoFHdi0vBeln3wKLiIWge-1yMu2Fx89VjYmHDRSTx28Bz1gjJ4A/s411/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.57.30.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="411" data-original-width="306" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGA37qspoAy_N67JePWgYTxbMoybxpR0kzxTSSr3KVtwS6Lstxyu9Herjdm7MRUaldeBXR-Uq3O0dWZ0cE8l6JZpSa1A2VliGD9si-F2c0qaiBVgCsiHCURGxDbW54TIm3U695ujGoFHdi0vBeln3wKLiIWge-1yMu2Fx89VjYmHDRSTx28Bz1gjJ4A/w476-h640/Ska%CC%88rmavbild%202022-06-24%20kl.%2016.57.30.png" width="476" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middagsvy from STF Kebnekaise</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0Kebnekaise, 981 99 Kiruna, Sverige67.918679000000012 18.572770339.608445163821166 -16.5834797 90 53.7290203tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-25039597448838809442021-10-05T15:21:00.002+02:002021-10-05T15:23:19.261+02:00Aguirre Tour d´Areau - un grand voie sportive<p> This is one of the most scenic routes on Tour d´Area, with each and every pitch on a demanding level and which takes, at least mine, full concentration.</p><p>With a strong friend on a visit in the valley the response was given when he asked me about some routes that we could try out;</p><p>- We Should or must try the legendary Aguirre!</p><p>The German movie from 1972 with the same name was directed by Werner HERZOG, maybe relative with the famous Maurice HERZOG who led the great French expedition to the Himalayas and Annapurna in 1950?!</p><p>Anyway, long story short, this is what happened:</p><p>I had just a few weeks before had done an other route, that one on the 4th tower. Struggling to find the right start in an annoying fog, which turned into rain on the last pitches. Therefore I could only laugh when I was once again surrounded by clouds once up at the upper parts of the trail, just below the last bit up to the base of the towers. But, on the fifth tower the numbers of routes are less, and the start of Aguirre is quite obvious, just to the left of the big crack that splits the tower. If, you just could see the tower it self!?</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicFTDBpo_axUEGqThfOMKqk97xswesB7kTdh8YT9Vdn-zaXPxx-ETHP6GOULS2TRJeHHOGImbXwalZo4FTvikukO7SZsMDj1PmD8HSMSp7iqtLhQEnBJ2MuwlG_vXimoIddknJO1pncwd4/s532/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.32.28.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="402" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicFTDBpo_axUEGqThfOMKqk97xswesB7kTdh8YT9Vdn-zaXPxx-ETHP6GOULS2TRJeHHOGImbXwalZo4FTvikukO7SZsMDj1PmD8HSMSp7iqtLhQEnBJ2MuwlG_vXimoIddknJO1pncwd4/w485-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.32.28.png" width="485" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erik Massih confused by all the good sign post?!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />By pure luck, the clouds made us the day and opened up for a moment while we just tried to wait for exactly that moment. A short spell in the fog and we new the way. <p></p><p>By starting from Mont Ferron, opposite Magland, we sawed at least 1h walk, each way. The hike via ref. Doran is good if your climbing on the 1-4th tower, but for the 5th and 6th Ferron is a better alternativ.</p><p>Our biggest hazard was just that hunting season was ongoing and the numbers of people getting shoot at and actually shoot dead is not a joke in France. Luckily the hunters had already lay down their first Sanglard of the day when we passed in the morning, and then we was safe away high up on the rock face for the rest of the day. Whit all the shooting going on util we descended in the afternoon/evening 😇</p>Once up at the base of the tower, the fight was on!<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIWi1Bu3ZbP6IF3cLfhTq4iW1xlyi1tpazUkeGDWhbHZbO_nQMoDg2YGHHlac7ULOgn0zPAXPmjCF4SR0Xm7a1cCvFIKUhtE-x7oja-VOoBZEr5PZYJZa5x8VDr9gl-ddq5PG7NiL51qK/s615/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.31.53.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="454" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIWi1Bu3ZbP6IF3cLfhTq4iW1xlyi1tpazUkeGDWhbHZbO_nQMoDg2YGHHlac7ULOgn0zPAXPmjCF4SR0Xm7a1cCvFIKUhtE-x7oja-VOoBZEr5PZYJZa5x8VDr9gl-ddq5PG7NiL51qK/w472-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.31.53.png" width="472" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erik Massih on crux pitch, @ 7b</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjJ4uoTFhV_N8mLoP9HI-nnRsymBYl0I8XeV5y7INmDtPaOq9Oi3Qo-9ZeJT8HVN2E-3ZUOBOGTTG2mt1knbWEpoz7dGhoDD-Pgp7G9xKYkQUvw6Gz_SAZDaXLdQ-HSJjllCPp3QSBXCZ/s636/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.34.30.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="476" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKjJ4uoTFhV_N8mLoP9HI-nnRsymBYl0I8XeV5y7INmDtPaOq9Oi3Qo-9ZeJT8HVN2E-3ZUOBOGTTG2mt1knbWEpoz7dGhoDD-Pgp7G9xKYkQUvw6Gz_SAZDaXLdQ-HSJjllCPp3QSBXCZ/w478-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.34.30.png" width="478" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZokkuwz8fc7exuTgia_FgAq96RcEC_mvTygE7Psado836VuK0HCX-I1uY_UgnVv2kyOTMXbfOA6yPtBldzRK0kB2q4kGHrp5N3pm0znFD4RA5G1l3WyUXR2nUNqarFAvDnkpoHZc6KEw0/s622/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.32.20.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="352" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZokkuwz8fc7exuTgia_FgAq96RcEC_mvTygE7Psado836VuK0HCX-I1uY_UgnVv2kyOTMXbfOA6yPtBldzRK0kB2q4kGHrp5N3pm0znFD4RA5G1l3WyUXR2nUNqarFAvDnkpoHZc6KEw0/w362-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.32.20.png" width="362" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yepp, its steep</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQpGRCkVDX5O-UI0zPcgahC34zkxVtOI5led3B02s99JgceXRuJA-ThNfTP_nzQcWOsh_4UG5H04DfUMs5IIitAgqhPn2YjbUHTZk5D-Yg91jKAAF5J8zOAkueGv-xukqLofHZJ94tbrne/s626/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.32.03.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="464" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQpGRCkVDX5O-UI0zPcgahC34zkxVtOI5led3B02s99JgceXRuJA-ThNfTP_nzQcWOsh_4UG5H04DfUMs5IIitAgqhPn2YjbUHTZk5D-Yg91jKAAF5J8zOAkueGv-xukqLofHZJ94tbrne/w474-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-10-05+kl.+14.32.03.png" width="474" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper part with the last 3 slab pitches </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>The start is very technical and steep, the last three pitches are very technical on slabs and canilurer.</p><p><br /></p><p>Itinerary</p><p>L1 7a Severe departure then beautiful moves over sometimes a drop of water.</p><p>L2 7a / b Crosses a little to the right. Easy start then two crossings of bulges which require determination, relay on the right.</p><p>L3 7b + Bouldering start on holes, easier section in crack then and magnificent chute. Relay on the left.</p><p>L4 6c + Dalleux. Start crossing to the right then a few dancer's steps straight ahead.</p><p>L5 7a Very varied. Start in the less popular slab, easier section on scales, technical crossing to the right and groove of 10 m (1 point ...) to exit on a beautiful terrace.</p><p>L6 7a A little to the right, start of slab at the end then easier at the end.</p><p>Rappels are found by moving upwards and climbers left</p><p>Materiel</p><p>2x50m rope, lead rope / tail line, 12-14 QD´s</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6wN2snRr8j4" width="320" youtube-src-id="6wN2snRr8j4"></iframe></div><div><br /></div>/Scars heals, glory fades...<br /><p><br /></p></div>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-57550688755895588342021-05-06T18:12:00.005+02:002022-06-24T15:54:25.546+02:00Keblines 2021<h4 style="text-align: left;"> An other weird winter has passed in the Swedish Lapland </h4><p>With the accelerating climate change the weather pattern is becoming more and more unpredictable. Well, in one way less unpresidential because one can be quite sure that it will not be as the normal winters as the once I grew up in. With long periods of cold stable weather. Instead its rapidly changing between warm and cold, a lot of precipitation which comes as rain even in mid january. But the biggest issue is the wind factor. Those days with huge snowfalls with big snowflakes that penetrates the air and forms a soft white layer on the ground, these days don't show up too often anymore.</p><p>When I look on the pictures and movies from the last winters I find a lot of great skiing, with big powder days. But the amount of stormy days with short movies where people are falling over, loosing balance and close to not being able to handle the equipment because of the strong winds, these days have a big number amount of days as well. That together with the rapid change of temperature makes off piste skiing quite difficult, with unstable snowpack and unpredictable slopes.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqKfGy4QQvDBwYk_eC1cth7O_Ub69rQ-34tgLgXcb8uxjAYGqP0iD9O1t0hV8bVZw1Wrt5oihcpzVvYscQBmqNJjxtYu9Z-36toBwXAVm3I18pBDc5mhLPAPsbdrF2FLX8BnNGknxSv9Cc/s618/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.24.38.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="618" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqKfGy4QQvDBwYk_eC1cth7O_Ub69rQ-34tgLgXcb8uxjAYGqP0iD9O1t0hV8bVZw1Wrt5oihcpzVvYscQBmqNJjxtYu9Z-36toBwXAVm3I18pBDc5mhLPAPsbdrF2FLX8BnNGknxSv9Cc/w640-h636/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.24.38.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singichokka - Couloir Royale</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>"Couloir Royale"</b></p><p>As always I spend a reasonable amount of time in the mountains of Kebnekaise each winter season. And my favorit time is April. Usually the snow has stabilized and the biggest avalanches has normally come down. And, the days are getting longer. I had a few lines from last year in mind that I wanted to try out. One is the obvious couloir that descends from Singichokka to the left of the "Last in Line" This is a quite technical route as well, that ends in a vertical section over steep rock, that would definitely need some rappelling. Said and done, I was lucky with a perfect weather spell on my only free day! After a quiet breakfast on a slow monday morning, all the clients from last week had left Sunday lunch and new clients arriving Tuesday afternoon, I had a full day for me and myself. Perfect timing!! With 2 ropes, a 30m and a 50m, in my bag. Some pitons and slings, ice axes and crampons and my new weapon, a Milwaukee, at the bottom of my ski-pack, I was ready to set of. The approach in the valley was easy on hard snow making it easy to move quickly. At the bottom of Singichokka I had seen the best way of getting up to the start of the couloir via the south east side and a bigger formation/couloir that looked easy enough. For sure the quickest way up which would make it easy tio find the descent line. Going up the couloir isn't an option for this one. Climbing the rock section looked enorm and would turn it into something else than this days goal - skiing! </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX4J9RM5jNcD8g35NKf54_pdiEyukGJbJnjkc_dzClkdOKUbd4QFnAMV_2fAVsdshsAICMSxCzijG8kqAraaZrjRJUscMwcONO1esn6311a7O-rQQ6BRzn79ImZNpNlyCECJ8VX13Yu-uY/s619/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.24.15.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX4J9RM5jNcD8g35NKf54_pdiEyukGJbJnjkc_dzClkdOKUbd4QFnAMV_2fAVsdshsAICMSxCzijG8kqAraaZrjRJUscMwcONO1esn6311a7O-rQQ6BRzn79ImZNpNlyCECJ8VX13Yu-uY/w486-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.24.15.png" width="486" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a close look down the Royale<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>From the marked trail at the bottom of Singi I started up on skis towards the steeper sections above. After a few hundred vertical meters I had to put my skis on the back and steeped into my crampons. The sun was heating up quite a bit, but the clouds in the morning should have protected the snow in the couloir enough to keep it soft. But now the heat started to make the snow quite heavy on the south side, building up snow under my crampons for every steep. And worse, starting to send down rocks from above which forced me to be really observant and quickly move from side to side when some bigger stones came tumbling down the face. To avoid the worst parts I aimed for a section of steeper snow out left, trying to stay protected from getting avalanched with climbing up as close as possible to the rock face. But at one point the only way was via a few steeps out on a bad looking section of 40° snow. One steep out and there was something as a gun shoot. And all went quiet!! Slowly i took two steeps back in my previous foot steeps, as light as possible. Wow, it stayed! Reversing down the same path I was forced to go up a more narrow couloir on the right instead, taking the risk of rockfalls. The only other option was returning down, and that wasn't an option really.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMNShDEZS_kaTp7XQjMMCZ9aXXSNGJHf1XYeE8R9LhyphenhyphenHk_rsN93vM0m59Mld5_dH9sPX5hQmwdfH0gOm22cUiTak_Yfn33V6ZokpQVVSfGLHIYTpxjUFvQ73N_qQszSGuVk1QNpSLKh0gW/s616/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.26.10.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="468" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMNShDEZS_kaTp7XQjMMCZ9aXXSNGJHf1XYeE8R9LhyphenhyphenHk_rsN93vM0m59Mld5_dH9sPX5hQmwdfH0gOm22cUiTak_Yfn33V6ZokpQVVSfGLHIYTpxjUFvQ73N_qQszSGuVk1QNpSLKh0gW/w486-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.26.10.png" width="486" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Some 100 meters in the couloir and I could move out left again climbing over slabs and stones, well protected from avalanches and rockfall. And with my two ice axes I quickly made progress, even though that the snow kept building up under my crampons all the time. Two steeps, cleaning of the snow, two steeps... frustrating!</p><p>Finally, I stood on top and the goal of the day showed its entrance. A huge avalanche had come down over the top part, as well as that I could see what looked like an old release edge lower down in the couloir. Which made me feel somewhat better. Now it should be clear, more stable...probably. Arranging the tools in the back pack, putting everything in the right order and range the ropes / tools and harness on. Just sending the picture and position to my wife and I was ready to set off!</p><p>The fist section was over a bit of ice, quite steep to start with. But after i could ski into a part of lower angle and stable snow. A few deep breaths before sending into the couloir itself, trying to stay protected closer to the rocks and making as light as possible turns to get a feeling of the stability. And it soon turned out that the cloud covered sky in the morning had kept the snow soft and protected from the direct sun ray. So no crust and a little dust, actually quite a lot on top. </p><p>As I had seen from below the line got steeper and steeper and I could see the cutting edge from an old avalanche that had broken off from the second part of the couloir. Some 40cm fraction line. Speeding up the lower part I safely arrive to the first point of rappel. And quickly decide that the Milwaukee will do the job. A 30m rappel from a single bolt to the next section of skiing, just a short 40m descend to the next rappel point and placing an other bolt before rappelling down a narrow slightly overhanging chimney. Safe down to the exit and the last and relaxing part of the descent out back to the marked trail!!</p><p><b>Niibbás</b> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhft7FE1zpqPUTZEBcCrpkv63CcxG418aHfTJaIHPj4EGAvbqar6Ipqw6NH_XpV9OJNKmjMA0vNSSUCdhqx2TBYaOJt81mfHAQVf93PCjPcElaWVqAVYHev3Pz3q0y0M3g2gBSZvyfUMrMm/s618/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.26.00.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="461" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhft7FE1zpqPUTZEBcCrpkv63CcxG418aHfTJaIHPj4EGAvbqar6Ipqw6NH_XpV9OJNKmjMA0vNSSUCdhqx2TBYaOJt81mfHAQVf93PCjPcElaWVqAVYHev3Pz3q0y0M3g2gBSZvyfUMrMm/w478-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.26.00.png" width="478" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>An other objective that I was able to ski was just by coincident while passing trough Unna Räita and Unna Reidavaggi. From the summit of Niibbas, 1902mts, there is a few easy accessed lines. One of them is on the north west side from the small glacier that goes up betweenPyramiden and Niibbas. With some extra power in the legs on the way back towards Tarfala we made a quick hike up to the ridge line and found a descent with some variated but enjoyable snow. The way up we scrambled up the same way as the line of the descent, using crampons and an ice axe as support. This couloir is also very obvious but not really easy to see the upper part from the Unna Räita cabin, but once below at the glacier it shows a quite spectacular ride. Well worth doing with a small effort of bootpacking.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOrSThfKmYnpuYfqPaTpnaRsnKTUz4z0eP38p0ethHJBh97FvumohRtalMmDzngVUnsP8QwTq40x_7aAQK1bllcdR0ozMuuB6ltRof_o-cuIFuogc4HHQvxhSS_MoSzl6WwtXFR5V8KZMA/s620/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.25.48.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="462" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOrSThfKmYnpuYfqPaTpnaRsnKTUz4z0eP38p0ethHJBh97FvumohRtalMmDzngVUnsP8QwTq40x_7aAQK1bllcdR0ozMuuB6ltRof_o-cuIFuogc4HHQvxhSS_MoSzl6WwtXFR5V8KZMA/w476-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.25.48.png" width="476" /></a></div><div><br /></div><p><b>Routes 2021</b></p><p><i><b><u>Couloir Royale, 48°/ED1/5:3/S5</u></b></i></p><p><u>Equipment</u></p><p>2 x 30m ropes, harness, crampons, 2 ice axes</p><p>In the line of the descent there is 2 bolts places on skiers left at each section of rappel, 20m and then 30m</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMcFeKT9glLi-waPFGWziV0KlTvLKS5Qo7B8_ONVOjwvnnIsCM2mW1AKKu2v31P4rFXhiCpMNv7tnU4zyr-EPsr4e1gsYPfdG2_Onq1FXRli6OhvfQCx_d1EgOVOwVaLTMy-FAVib_o0fR/s619/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.24.58.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="619" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMcFeKT9glLi-waPFGWziV0KlTvLKS5Qo7B8_ONVOjwvnnIsCM2mW1AKKu2v31P4rFXhiCpMNv7tnU4zyr-EPsr4e1gsYPfdG2_Onq1FXRli6OhvfQCx_d1EgOVOwVaLTMy-FAVib_o0fR/w640-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.24.58.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><b><i><u>Niibbas Couloir NW 40° /PD/4:1/S4</u></i></b></p><p><u>Equipment</u></p><p>Crampons, ice axe</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXYhUqQRV8K5oBvkfL9_hw8lD68vkQVo_fqXdjigm3r8O-syh71tnVUusFepy5wor3GTuuroGTRJoT7bfb8RfGXEuHrxVxXcdqTt2__IYaxd3nbFZecTQWNDD_Pe40edgfJVSC_T4Wp1M/s631/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.35.40.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXYhUqQRV8K5oBvkfL9_hw8lD68vkQVo_fqXdjigm3r8O-syh71tnVUusFepy5wor3GTuuroGTRJoT7bfb8RfGXEuHrxVxXcdqTt2__IYaxd3nbFZecTQWNDD_Pe40edgfJVSC_T4Wp1M/w476-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.35.40.png" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="424" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ljENSe6B-Ng" width="510" youtube-src-id="ljENSe6B-Ng"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdM6hm7BzzqcdYqotA3pWqHR220dPHabjO78muEdwJHnaTCaZFZs0LnDaxCYXtPchKDT3XcmzQjed5WrhiL5NpJE_Cs1sSsDfHTUXmRHvGarf8nH1E2GFFbRep9NKWIK7mUGKMeUIjA5LG/s612/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.35.23.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="353" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdM6hm7BzzqcdYqotA3pWqHR220dPHabjO78muEdwJHnaTCaZFZs0LnDaxCYXtPchKDT3XcmzQjed5WrhiL5NpJE_Cs1sSsDfHTUXmRHvGarf8nH1E2GFFbRep9NKWIK7mUGKMeUIjA5LG/w370-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2021-05-06+kl.+11.35.23.png" width="370" /></a></div><br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.comKebnekaise, 981 99 Kiruna, Sverige67.918679000000012 18.572770339.608445163821166 -16.5834797 90 53.7290203tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-24920440604009639992021-03-16T18:51:00.003+01:002021-03-16T18:51:36.581+01:00Ice Climbing Stora Sjöfallet - Nieras<p> During a week in the area of Stora sjöfallet we, Johan Lindfors and myself, had the opportunity, with great ice conditions for the year as it looks, to climb a bunch of lines during our stay.</p><p>With the great help from the hosts at <a href="http://www.storasjofallet.com" target="_blank">Stora sjöfallets Mountain Lodge</a> we could get access to a beautiful area of the North side of Nieras and its East- and Norths faces. Which turned out to hold a good amount of potential new routes and lines.</p><p>We stayed for one week, with 5 days of climbing, and put up 5 new routes...</p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij-42BTjis4vINLJkhBUuppv7yUlKH45zzICwIt_0JFXU6pXrSmyBWSrCXh5uAx_ou735JtqQwzn9f27h1eLB_zWRrewX31sRbSoZliVKzl_DDvdZqQPT6NTc5OTSuHwAV_U21lBzehZqG/s2048/Fja%25CC%2588llva%25CC%2588der+pa%25CC%258A+stand%2521.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1539" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij-42BTjis4vINLJkhBUuppv7yUlKH45zzICwIt_0JFXU6pXrSmyBWSrCXh5uAx_ou735JtqQwzn9f27h1eLB_zWRrewX31sRbSoZliVKzl_DDvdZqQPT6NTc5OTSuHwAV_U21lBzehZqG/s320/Fja%25CC%2588llva%25CC%2588der+pa%25CC%258A+stand%2521.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fjällväder!<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>The first day, upon arrival, we was meet with a beautiful sky and high clouds and with a night that provided a great Aurora show on the sky high above. With a coffee in hand I spent 2 hours outside just amazed of the spectacular fenomen. But during the night we had a shift in the weather front, giving us a full on storm during the next 4 days. Which made us just stay down in the tree line the first day, enjoying the open tree skiing areas above the Mountain Lodge. </p><p>But, since our main misson was to climb we made a recon tour in the late afternoon up to the barrage of Sitas. From which we could see a huge number of interesting waterfalls and mixed lines on its East and North sides. We had a plan indeed!!</p><br /><p><br /></p><p>Next morning, still super strong winds, but we had found a line on the east face of Nieras which should be protected from the wind, a bit of lee side maybe. Which it turned out to be, if you don't mind the spinn drifts! We took a full day out climbing a quite interesting line over 3 pitches with ice up to WI5+. And totally blasted by the snow drift. </p><p>Nice to be well protected with clothes designed in Britain and tested in the Scottish Alps! </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi392ZM8EseIBnSxSyFT7af8QxGHmHA1kH7GtW0Hjf-x2L3eLjaoMbf21Z0ZT5GysYoxd4OY6usntFqakPbD9sk_0_Wcf7MuB1Qj9U0nCFpV5RLJYf7aqAQhEQ67SXIGngfU8V7c1Wqp0HW/s2048/Norrlands+Guld+WI5%252B.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi392ZM8EseIBnSxSyFT7af8QxGHmHA1kH7GtW0Hjf-x2L3eLjaoMbf21Z0ZT5GysYoxd4OY6usntFqakPbD9sk_0_Wcf7MuB1Qj9U0nCFpV5RLJYf7aqAQhEQ67SXIGngfU8V7c1Wqp0HW/w480-h640/Norrlands+Guld+WI5%252B.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading Norrlands Guld WI5+</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqk9dcS_3A_QIWDAfzqYwko9nve_7PS1VK9YjRuFsHfEm_7XXpvoqE3Zx7RKjZscwzCmkxzSI4jEZwy3ydOQd0su1_9qbNDH5zGuIx8x-JXFESAR3tNC68A6_KZBJFsOXPk0QKe7yNAh8o/s2048/Norrlandsguld+Topo.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqk9dcS_3A_QIWDAfzqYwko9nve_7PS1VK9YjRuFsHfEm_7XXpvoqE3Zx7RKjZscwzCmkxzSI4jEZwy3ydOQd0su1_9qbNDH5zGuIx8x-JXFESAR3tNC68A6_KZBJFsOXPk0QKe7yNAh8o/w480-h640/Norrlandsguld+Topo.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>The following days we climbed more on the North facing walls of Nieras, putting up 3 routes up to WI6. But we had one more deal with the East face, a thin steep line of ice that looked just amazingly good. The type of climbing that I enjoy the most, technical ice formations over steep, overhanging rock. And it turned out to follow up all my expectations. Starting in nice beautiful blue sky weather we finished in beautiful spinndrift and full on storm, again!! 😎💪👊</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJHoxN8K7zCj2Cb8pNacu4kL56T8EJtsArklw7zPs_nV67bXHN4L5UNW3I2AnAYqG0uZwpEzwFB_62dMyuKy_s-TG7Nyspe-1RGAl6j9Nn4gO_qOKEzHDJil4Tvfopz9exJWENY6Cyl5e/s2048/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+Topo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJHoxN8K7zCj2Cb8pNacu4kL56T8EJtsArklw7zPs_nV67bXHN4L5UNW3I2AnAYqG0uZwpEzwFB_62dMyuKy_s-TG7Nyspe-1RGAl6j9Nn4gO_qOKEzHDJil4Tvfopz9exJWENY6Cyl5e/w480-h640/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+Topo.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUdkilCpAhiD0f_SmDMRiFXvwSHX6C147HvA7aq_HQnu49QUWGhyphenhyphen8j3gh4JPE9KgrALq2cbTldklxLjN91TKiQf9Woy0zPFapucZgN0pIViwEP9ezDyCkvPZ5UP51Wx7kSx5KrqDo8nK2d/s2048/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+WI6%252C+1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUdkilCpAhiD0f_SmDMRiFXvwSHX6C147HvA7aq_HQnu49QUWGhyphenhyphen8j3gh4JPE9KgrALq2cbTldklxLjN91TKiQf9Woy0zPFapucZgN0pIViwEP9ezDyCkvPZ5UP51Wx7kSx5KrqDo8nK2d/w640-h480/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+WI6%252C+1.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQwMfobLGAP6ptgon56y-gutaVZdtgaxntJkXFrsiXaEC2_dgkQC23imzHY4bh7pJcnRfAyZJ2blhFbiXpv7ag-p31kU52P__ojHZ3MbuVMLBGA1WDDcBqi8qDex5vRrGwE5YltFEtfvw/s2048/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+WI6%252C+2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQwMfobLGAP6ptgon56y-gutaVZdtgaxntJkXFrsiXaEC2_dgkQC23imzHY4bh7pJcnRfAyZJ2blhFbiXpv7ag-p31kU52P__ojHZ3MbuVMLBGA1WDDcBqi8qDex5vRrGwE5YltFEtfvw/w480-h640/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+WI6%252C+2.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading Den Tunna Blå Linjen</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBagq8WD2NHrFXE5Z3BBI4ugLQ64oxINbDQtYKj9ztHNXdQkvCzyWVTxx-3sbD6Tg1ZUn78_RNqbHMJLV9X9DQtV5kWg3BKH-DgbKQeZdPItQs48vFYDoUjiMyUlNMOK15fvJvhFOrSSH/s2048/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+WI6%252C+3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBagq8WD2NHrFXE5Z3BBI4ugLQ64oxINbDQtYKj9ztHNXdQkvCzyWVTxx-3sbD6Tg1ZUn78_RNqbHMJLV9X9DQtV5kWg3BKH-DgbKQeZdPItQs48vFYDoUjiMyUlNMOK15fvJvhFOrSSH/w640-h480/Den+Tunna+Bla%25CC%258A+Linjen+WI6%252C+3.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johan following up the last pitch of Den Tunna Blå Linjen</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b>When and were</b></p><p> Stora Sjöfallet is on the entrance to Sarek and Ritsem, on the way between Gällivare in the north and Jokkmokk in the south. There is a good bus connection when arriving with the train to Gällivare. The history about the place is caused of the huge water barrage, which provides Sweden with a great amount of electricity. Which has put a huge environmental effect over the area. Drowning and destroying many of the traditional Lappish villages and their traditional areas´´, many of which they were forced to leave the these constructions started to take place. Convenient enough the Swedish government at that time, changed the laws and restrictions to be able to construct these hydroelectricity power stations.</p><p>All this has of course changed the area in many ways, but it has also provided a good road up to this part of the massif of Sarek, Ahkka and Ritsem. By which we can access the ice climbing.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8s-fcqNsuxZ9rx4NatwrxR22GdPSu4BydM7MW_aGZAP79pPV3onBlHXcbCGijUXmHXWv6rCn_MmqtdDUQzjydUF5KnM2INsHUewCqlZfekWmFTpA30-RMeA8p9x0yKTBLvnVferYDiBA/s1334/Nieras+Map.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1334" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8s-fcqNsuxZ9rx4NatwrxR22GdPSu4BydM7MW_aGZAP79pPV3onBlHXcbCGijUXmHXWv6rCn_MmqtdDUQzjydUF5KnM2INsHUewCqlZfekWmFTpA30-RMeA8p9x0yKTBLvnVferYDiBA/w360-h640/Nieras+Map.jpeg" width="360" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin9yWcWzxonVETijyZJK6oiBiyWYM0ZPPJKBbEDvhrtE6QLC9rvXJaP9GD5sIw0YHWdwg5XBFpuE10OIQzMj6sMy4U0v5dT4nzaTd5vbxcEEFWuCLbKMdobRtMiN6eESqMJoPqYdmCXE1h/s2048/Nieras+Stora+Sjo%25CC%2588fallet+Topo.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1044" data-original-width="2048" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin9yWcWzxonVETijyZJK6oiBiyWYM0ZPPJKBbEDvhrtE6QLC9rvXJaP9GD5sIw0YHWdwg5XBFpuE10OIQzMj6sMy4U0v5dT4nzaTd5vbxcEEFWuCLbKMdobRtMiN6eESqMJoPqYdmCXE1h/w640-h326/Nieras+Stora+Sjo%25CC%2588fallet+Topo.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nieras North face</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Time of climbing</b></p><p>You can ice climb in this area during a long period of the winter, normally already from October/November until May.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpc-o-Yz8kd1-Y07ZUyVse_omg8UglOgDPsK6MEF1XdGwZOXwFBv8dGq8Syg89D_hGrzRzjeyOF8PTFKf7XsFIGclzIt1S3kVbJPiLTcyN0uW49_e4xvfF6KYbwQ4upLMhj2yuj0AwBuw/s2048/Ninjo+WI6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1537" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpc-o-Yz8kd1-Y07ZUyVse_omg8UglOgDPsK6MEF1XdGwZOXwFBv8dGq8Syg89D_hGrzRzjeyOF8PTFKf7XsFIGclzIt1S3kVbJPiLTcyN0uW49_e4xvfF6KYbwQ4upLMhj2yuj0AwBuw/w480-h640/Ninjo+WI6.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ninjo, WI6 @ Nieras</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6tXZC4jyWPvJTbDF9wo0uVn87Ea1Etgr87_G1F9V17gAIa32gXpl4WYGQRYnzKnRadBh4nbpM3HVB951P2x9qu09T_01YIAMNonFULhuB5MSPqAWWDymRm92W3STvmzdO1Hu7kolquFDS/s1920/Stora+Sjo%25CC%2588fallet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6tXZC4jyWPvJTbDF9wo0uVn87Ea1Etgr87_G1F9V17gAIa32gXpl4WYGQRYnzKnRadBh4nbpM3HVB951P2x9qu09T_01YIAMNonFULhuB5MSPqAWWDymRm92W3STvmzdO1Hu7kolquFDS/w480-h640/Stora+Sjo%25CC%2588fallet.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finishing up "Ninjo" at Nieras</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Accommodation</b></p><p>There is a few places to stay. Free camping is an option for the hard cores!</p><p>My best experience is at the Stora Sjofallets Mountain Lodge, with the option to rent a room, single double, or a cabin. With access to a great restaurant after a good day out!</p><p>http://www.storasjofallet.com</p><p style="text-align: right;">//Scares heals, Glory Fades!!</p><p><br /></p>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com1Stora Sjöfallets / Stuor Muorkke nationalpark, Sverige67.560248 18.037653839.250014163821156 -17.1185962 90 53.1939038tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-75006308579600107332020-10-26T10:50:00.000+01:002020-10-26T10:50:22.648+01:00Grand Flambeau Sexocet - Monia Mena<h3 style="text-align: left;"> Thanks to Ezio Marlier, an Italian mountain guide from Courmayeur, there is a couple of good easy accessed mixed routes at the Grand Flambeau. Easily reached from the Helbronner telepherique.<br />It´s east face is definitely only a winter face, since it´s, in quite small words, a bit loose :-)</h3><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDVWBa3f5EeGXFtMZVg7ktJRQHNROR-2wNB0mBLx1YlL-MpqNPA_oMe0LLGv4Y8nTuhuT5XyDx0SloLu5295FeGSnaVWLGJjj5mkNcczgmrtSszG5_CFclwSh5GHVQGNh-7XnhbdeC5rG/s611/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.51.52.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="459" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDVWBa3f5EeGXFtMZVg7ktJRQHNROR-2wNB0mBLx1YlL-MpqNPA_oMe0LLGv4Y8nTuhuT5XyDx0SloLu5295FeGSnaVWLGJjj5mkNcczgmrtSszG5_CFclwSh5GHVQGNh-7XnhbdeC5rG/w523-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.51.52.png" width="523" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First pitch of Monia Mena<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>But, when stabilized with cold weather and refrozen snow, it´s no to bad. And in the combo with it´ s 10min access its a great choice for an introduction of the use of ice axes in the high mountains or when the weather is a bit on the bad side.</p><p>Still, at this time of year when the fist lift is at 08:30 and last descent is at 15:30, you have to keep the rope moving at all time to be sure to join the last bin back down. At least if the ambition is to top out!</p><p>Two nice but a little easier ones are Sexocet (M6) and Monia Mena (M7+)</p><p>Sexocet has a short crux section at the start which ones overrun its more M5/M4 climbing. This one aslo as a fun second pitch, steaming up a chimney formation passing under a jamed bloc.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51EUG_Df-zx6gnf7N2BJCzT-NGYjm4RM-LQpYd3u2SaoxveVLmqd84fvSo25x7oyfrjabsuCN-g01t7-2B4WbBXPN6NhRUczVq6FjBKLd7ZdsWvWV3KRCIpxHDhhetQ5FqdwbtzqYP7fZ/s589/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.49.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="334" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51EUG_Df-zx6gnf7N2BJCzT-NGYjm4RM-LQpYd3u2SaoxveVLmqd84fvSo25x7oyfrjabsuCN-g01t7-2B4WbBXPN6NhRUczVq6FjBKLd7ZdsWvWV3KRCIpxHDhhetQ5FqdwbtzqYP7fZ/w362-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.49.02.png" width="362" /></a></div><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRH2Zd91LJNY29hu7YY-Gb7HPk_sOWCbMzbolT_tC0PAPDx6x-KIa3gmDupdzRj-mBBncIMcI3SvfD5V5YEygWtMDV0iOveU7aR7DVczmUgBDPkTn-bESkL0SxqlR57IloEU0SI1OJ9cK/s630/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.49.31.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="474" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRH2Zd91LJNY29hu7YY-Gb7HPk_sOWCbMzbolT_tC0PAPDx6x-KIa3gmDupdzRj-mBBncIMcI3SvfD5V5YEygWtMDV0iOveU7aR7DVczmUgBDPkTn-bESkL0SxqlR57IloEU0SI1OJ9cK/w482-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.49.31.png" width="482" /></a></div><br /><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Initiary Sexocet</b></span></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">P1: 25m M6 Climb along ice crusts and crack / physical blade, passage to the right in the gully / chimney stop on the left</span></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">L2: 20m M5. Immediately a narrow and deep gully, uncomfortable but well protected, coming out of a characteristic hole .... the one on the left is better, stop at the base of the exit corner</span></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">L3: 40m M4. Superb exit on the left and non-trivial channel, stop at a bolted belay. </span></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L4: 40 m Go up to the left until you reach the snow couloir and join Monia Mena. On the way there is </i><i>a large boulder with a bolt, this bloc is totally loose, if its still there!</i></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Continue for another 2 pitches on snow with some short classic difficulties up to the cable car platform, voilá!</span></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><i><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">DESCENT</span></b></i></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><i><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Abseil down the route from S3 or from Monia mena if you don´t go to the top. </span></b></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i style="color: #454545;">From the top, go around the iron fence, </i><span style="color: #454545;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><i>follow</i></span></span><i style="color: #454545;"> the fixed cord direct out right, and then down </i></b><span style="color: #454545;"><b><i style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);">the arete aiming for the snow </i><i>arete below. Scramble down to an other section of </i><i>jamed wires and some static rope to make rappel off</i><i> from.</i><i style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"> </i></b></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica Neue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzSPEtVrEYVKevVNlNF_hV7TyR_uIhT0BJkQ6FF8YirVI3m8V_rZxk7b57EImWeFr1lobIRdMKXZAGCnk-mqeQnErV4S2DTaAmLq0xE9IQam2JXz2tTJkoWHqNt6t-fdRHg3KAnNDh6iz/s630/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.50.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Chimney pitch of Sexocet" border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="472" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzSPEtVrEYVKevVNlNF_hV7TyR_uIhT0BJkQ6FF8YirVI3m8V_rZxk7b57EImWeFr1lobIRdMKXZAGCnk-mqeQnErV4S2DTaAmLq0xE9IQam2JXz2tTJkoWHqNt6t-fdRHg3KAnNDh6iz/w300-h400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.50.21.png" width="300" /></a></div><b>Monia Mena (M7+)</b><p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">This route has characteristic first pitch with some good climbing which keep one busy over 25m.</p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">Second pitch is much easier and after that your up in the same couloir as Sexocet. But the first pitch definitely makes it worth climbing.</p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;">Good protected with own pro and 5 spits</p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><i style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><b>Initiary </b></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>P1: 25 m M7 + long ice crust and final physical overhang, 6 bolts along pitch 3 on the right in the hard pass and one at the exit in the center of the gully, belay on bolts on the right</i></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L2: 40 m M5 immediately a narrow and deep gully and exit to keep ears straight, easy channel (50 degrees) and belay on bolts and cord on the slab on the right</i></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L3: 45 m classic difficulty 50 degrees towards Evidente on the left and then on the right side of the canal stop on the right on bolts and cord</i></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L4: 45 m slightly to the right and go around the rock, returning to the left and stop in the center of the channel towards under the clearly visible steel balustrades</i></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>P5: 25m still classic difficulties up to the cable car platform</i></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><br /></i></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 2px;"><i>DESCENT</i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i>Abseil down the route. Or same as the descent as Sexocet</i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><br /></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">An other nice route on this face, a bit more to the far right side is <b>Cuori di ghiaccio</b></span></p><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 2px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 2px;"><i style="font-family: -webkit-standard;"><b>Initiary </b></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">P1: 25m nice pitch with sections of M5, bolt belay with sling on ledge in the middle of the gully</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">P2: 30m M7 start up overhang, fairly difficult to get established above this (bolt on the left above the overhang), then gully and not easy exit, bolt at exit and bolted belay with sling</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">P3: 45m classic winter difficulties, 50° leftwards to the base of the gully, bolt belay with sling on the right</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">P4: 45m follow the gully and then continue up wide open slopes</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">P5: 45m classic winter difficulties up to an obvious triangle where the line joins the last belay of Koala pirla</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px 0px 2px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">DESCENT</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Abseil down the route. Or same as the descent as Sexocet</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpQW5tVDOnWXE29Bem-zOS6_9dv6t3k90Fc3P2RZ8cGK7wY-n56DRpz-gW6oztIwUuUmoyxdr7GV2zLFREssrYO7Lvch6wcBmljEsrFotC3EEZIhZv5gscIRP1TVEAcuJCiGOG8UH_VyU/s632/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.49.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Descending down back on the glacier" border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpQW5tVDOnWXE29Bem-zOS6_9dv6t3k90Fc3P2RZ8cGK7wY-n56DRpz-gW6oztIwUuUmoyxdr7GV2zLFREssrYO7Lvch6wcBmljEsrFotC3EEZIhZv5gscIRP1TVEAcuJCiGOG8UH_VyU/w476-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.49.49.png" title="Monia Mena" width="476" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Returning to ponta Helbronner<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Equipment</b></span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cams Green alien to #3 Black diamond</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">1 small set of wires</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">5-7 QD´s</span></i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i>50m rope (x2 if rappelling)</i></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><i><br /></i><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6Ly3C3igYtp4sJIj6AX50gxp4Kurg2jGvTOHMcglJpRqlNHFc3agV8roysE78z19IJo1DQ2g0bsYkqIGGMatb_WR827VbpKyZi74ctJhu7Vc78FUUPc07Va_6B4Ll9ivC5X2-Iq4gN1o/s669/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.50.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="669" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6Ly3C3igYtp4sJIj6AX50gxp4Kurg2jGvTOHMcglJpRqlNHFc3agV8roysE78z19IJo1DQ2g0bsYkqIGGMatb_WR827VbpKyZi74ctJhu7Vc78FUUPc07Va_6B4Ll9ivC5X2-Iq4gN1o/w640-h464/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-10-26+kl.+09.50.48.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow line is Monia Mena / Orange Sexocet<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></p>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0Ray Emery Drive, International Terminal First Floor, Mangere, Auckland 2022, Nya Zeeland-37.0059265 174.782433-65.316160336178854 139.626183 -8.6956926638211556 -150.06131700000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-14694938121167408822020-09-28T17:00:00.003+02:002020-09-28T17:00:00.136+02:00Utsiktslöshet är inget faktum - utan en sinnesstämning att övervinna...<p></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Sommaren 2020 kommer nior att gå till historien som en av mänsklighetens mera påtagliga sådana, mycket och manga har kommit på kant och kast under denna Covidment period. Som ännu i skrivandets stund har långt från att summaras nått sin vägs ände.<br />Men, sommaren i denna delen av världen har nog nått sin, som det i siktet ut genom fönstret ser ut i vart fall. Speciellt i kombinationen av att kolla in kommande långtidsprognos.<br />Le météo är minst sagt övertygande i sitt uttryck vad gäller kommande veckors nederbörd och temperaturer. </h4><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Förra höst samt vinter hade meteoblue.com en rätt intressant och sedermera träffande bild av sin promoria. Årets hörs upplaga visar en kall period nu i september/oktober för att sedan gå mot varmare än normalt igen fram mot december. Dock mycket nederbörd för januari och fram mot mars...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Att Convid haft en allt genom positiv inverkan på klimatet är uppenbart. Och kanske är det sådan dramatiska effekter som är det enda slutliga för moder Jord att ta till för att hålla dess mest krävande innevånare, Sapiens, i schack!?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Med en allt kallare och vitare omgivning så har det dragit ihop sig till att summera ännu en intensiv och på sina sätt, dramatisk sommar men ett flertal milstolpar och fantastiska upplevelser.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Att själva inledningen av sommarmånaderna skulle kännetecknas av att stå med högerfoten i en gipslåda, det var väl långt från och knappast den inledning som stor att önska.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Jag drar mig till minnes blickarna jag skickade på alla dess som lättsamt joggade förbi i värmen, utan att, som jag tolkade det i vart fall, själva fatta hur lyckliga dom kunde hålla sig att kunna utföra en sådan minst sagt enkel handling.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Dessutom minns jag väl känslan av skam och idioti att under en sådan period av epidemi sitta i en väntsal på ett sjukhus! Att komma och draga på en sån stupiditet som en bruten fot som utspelats under ett än större tillfälle av opraktisk dumhet, att falla rätt i backen från 2:a klippet. Lyckligtvis en klockren landning, men allt och ändå, efter en kämpande cykling hem till boet och en natt som passerade mestadels sömnlöst för att sedan inse att bara ta sig till morgon toaletten var närmast uteslutet...kort sagt, det skulle krävas ett ingrepp.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sagt och gjort och snart stod jag där med gips och kryckor och med en prognos om 5 veckors bok och vila. Sen rehabilitering och så där fram emot september, lite längre promenader!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lyckligtvis så synkade nog varken kropp, hjärna eller emotionen något av denna information, så när första återbesöket kom att genomföras 11 dagar senare fick gipset raskt åka av, med motivet att det inte går att flyga med gipsad kroppsdel. Och sen avhandlades rehaben av i än raskare takt, i aktiv bergsmiljö.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Och så kom sommaren -20 att bli en bra klättersommar allt till trots.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Inte minst p g a mitt senaste inspirationsköp, stavas PROBLEM SOLVER, väger dryga 400gr och finns med överallt!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Det andra som nämnda epidemi bidragit som positivt med är våra upptäckter av alla dessa fantastiska små klätterklippor i Östergötland. Tack vara min goda vän och ägare av Altitude Access så resulterade inte bara nedstängningen av det mesta av mina guide jobb till ett ytterst intressant utbud av Rope Access jobb, dessutom av Olofs generösa utlånande av bil vilket resulterade till att vi, jag och Anna Backlund, kom att kunna utforska en stor del av kända och mindre sådana klippor runt om i en del av Sverige som jag aldrig kommit att traversera tidigare.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Klippor som Söderö med sina 20-25meter av rena spricklinjer är av hög kvalité, dessutom fick jag möjligheten att sätta en 1:a bestigning. "Réves de Verdon" 7a+</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Men givetvis, så har klättringen runt Chamonix, nu som alltid satt störst avtryck.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">L´Eveque, Aiguille du Moin, voie Rebuffat på aig. Midi, le Grand Capucin, Adolphe rey, Aiguille du Peigne, de Pèlerins....le Brevent inte minst!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Samt all sportklättring nere i Vallee l´Arve. Liksom le Parèt ovanför vårt nya hem i Servoz...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sen ett par större Alpina turer där kanske Paralpinism a la Dome de Miage slog högst!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Antagligen så hade det pressats in ett par berg och turer till, men då de Tre T;na tar sitt </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Ting -Tar-Tid, så har det gått en och annan timma till alla anmarscher och packningar inför de BASE dagar som passerat.Och fler det bliva skall, om hälsan och hoppet fortsätter sätta in!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-----------------------------</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QqjqoXI94vs?rel=0" width="700"></iframe>
</div><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" separator="" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F8Stq2voFYY?rel=0" style="clear: both; text-align: center;" width="700></iframe></div><br /><div class="><iiframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KMvGuLo_awU?rel=0" width="700"></iframe>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-72638045618100895392020-07-11T17:10:00.007+02:002020-07-11T17:10:00.195+02:00Väck på l’Eveque<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Möjligtvis med ett visst inslag av överoptimism men klättringen rullar på och jag tycker oss göra ett bra tempo och enligt det utritade topon så har vi snabbt avancerat med ett stort antal replängder bakom oss. Att Mont Nonne, som har ungefär samma höjd som själva toppen av l’Eveque, 3469m, fortfarande ståtar en så där 200-300m ovanför oss förmår jag enkelt att ignorera. Istället intalar jag mig liksom Anna att </span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><font face="inherit">-jodå, ett par replängder till, säker bara nästa gendarm, så är vi uppe! Men oj så fel det kan vara!</font></h4><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQjPaSvEB7qvdSoMeLaKElOxnTbQF_I4tmPfkfj1wjCsZTFkU-gRBaHM8MTAIaoFVU6PfhjUCjZd-1h6zNFKs4dMBklOmQIXwUmcubQSwI4_i3AxgCqekmn2NEo2dKMZG4zUKub2AoUWu/s697/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+11.57.29.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="524" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQjPaSvEB7qvdSoMeLaKElOxnTbQF_I4tmPfkfj1wjCsZTFkU-gRBaHM8MTAIaoFVU6PfhjUCjZd-1h6zNFKs4dMBklOmQIXwUmcubQSwI4_i3AxgCqekmn2NEo2dKMZG4zUKub2AoUWu/w470-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+11.57.29.png" width="470" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descent från Couvercle<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><font color="#454545" face="inherit"><br /></font></div><div><font color="#454545" face="inherit">Med ett osedvanligt stabilt framför oss så har vi placerat in att försöka avverka ett av våra förutspående projekt i Massif du Mont Blanc, Mont l`Evueque via Arete Contamine, via Ref Charpoua, samt Östväggen på Aig. du Moine, via ref. du Couvercle. Också via Contamine, voie Contamine/Labrunie</font></div><div><font color="#454545" face="inherit">Två fina och långa klassiska klätterturer på mont blanc´s massivets briljanta granit.</font></div><div><font color="#454545" face="inherit">Som alltid så är det en upplevelse att bara komma upp till Refuge Charpoua, en av områdets äldsta refuger som insuper en historisk känsla som inte minst infinner sig när man sätter sig till bords för att intaga den av gardienen, Sarah Cartier, tillagade middagen. Här runt bordet har dom alla suttit; Rebuffat, Bonatti, Cassin, Stäck....och inte minst André Contamine <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);">själv.</span></font></div><div><font color="#454545" face="inherit"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><br /></span></font></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHfNHdQ4xsUYIUwH4epca0F0yTOH_3as3L8dum4W1n-K2-rT13f3CQpwcBEEzhy_1laVm_xjNNh3FVfWgdmwGfshby-cICPrZNzSo8nF9l0cYenYsJXvgSCnP3Ud_wkpEO1YC5eiDNHmJX/s840/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.01.23.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="840" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHfNHdQ4xsUYIUwH4epca0F0yTOH_3as3L8dum4W1n-K2-rT13f3CQpwcBEEzhy_1laVm_xjNNh3FVfWgdmwGfshby-cICPrZNzSo8nF9l0cYenYsJXvgSCnP3Ud_wkpEO1YC5eiDNHmJX/w500-h370/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.01.23.png" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna, någonstans på l´Evueque<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><font face="inherit"><br /></font></div>
<p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">En lång resa uppför och över ett oräkneligt antal gendarmer och toppar har bara börjat! Lite som väck på l’Eveque. Men hela tiden på fast och fin klippa i en omgivning som gör allt för att uppmuntra stämningen. Och med molnbankar som konstant lyfter och täcker in oss i ett behagligt lugn och sinnesfrid. Och i sinom tid borde vi nog komma oss upp, i André ’s fotspår</font></p>
<p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 14px;"><font face="inherit"><br /></font></p>
<p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">För att citera en annan känd André, vår Svenska luftballong farare;</font></p>
<p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">Vår position är ej synnerligen god!</font></p>
<p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">Så illa kan det nog aldrig beskrivas men det flesta skulle nog idag anse att le traversé av l’Eveque är att betrakta som en smärre expedition. Med anmarch, klättring och nedstigning. </font></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">Vi var dessutom ute i Contamine tema så även Östväggen på Aiguille Moine lades till i upplägget, via voie Contamine/Labrunie, om totalt 3169 höjdmeter. </font></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">För att sen, från toppen av aig du Moine, promenera tillbaka ner till Chamonix, en sådär 2992m höjdmeter. </font></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit"><br /></font></p>
<p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6upJnckwmapXC2PMioDsItKZqFgUS7-fuw2JMC5OOiP1qkNWegtPkunpxpj-IcB_N5N762ipDwKhfx_ZwcN0GGOcL8RSc5OD7fF9AJyzVQIiUFvN5LcJVSFhUaO3LTTNz7oZSn5fEoynQ/s631/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.47.21.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="470" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6upJnckwmapXC2PMioDsItKZqFgUS7-fuw2JMC5OOiP1qkNWegtPkunpxpj-IcB_N5N762ipDwKhfx_ZwcN0GGOcL8RSc5OD7fF9AJyzVQIiUFvN5LcJVSFhUaO3LTTNz7oZSn5fEoynQ/w373-h500/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.47.21.png" width="373" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGY7mbEg7J2IIL6rKd3LuZZBHnyU6LiC4LyUmL5XOMXof39lEO34YqonD_2cuZQ3XlNyFdutwkfIwwZU059AAuZevhln-AznPGMlPUck5GoX-b_LONbPuHOI6ufJJy3zO9ogi6Zz5Vc8kS/s628/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.00.34.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="472" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGY7mbEg7J2IIL6rKd3LuZZBHnyU6LiC4LyUmL5XOMXof39lEO34YqonD_2cuZQ3XlNyFdutwkfIwwZU059AAuZevhln-AznPGMlPUck5GoX-b_LONbPuHOI6ufJJy3zO9ogi6Zz5Vc8kS/w376-h500/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.00.34.png" width="376" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamnar ni här, då är ni definitivt fel!! Men det var en x-tra bonus med en fin spricka<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji963zVu-USYE8-yLeo_G4ypax0WB1uNKkhdHDOsiUka3mX75AUWPwAjjES28fnQO6HCxK6YQC5m2KEOSjtjiXcs5_-roDWFPWOJ1dPDF2LpsV3PKpAtra4aTxAD79o19mjER2_DKX1NAM/s627/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.00.50.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="469" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji963zVu-USYE8-yLeo_G4ypax0WB1uNKkhdHDOsiUka3mX75AUWPwAjjES28fnQO6HCxK6YQC5m2KEOSjtjiXcs5_-roDWFPWOJ1dPDF2LpsV3PKpAtra4aTxAD79o19mjER2_DKX1NAM/w374-h500/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.00.50.png" width="374" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna på en av alla Gendermer...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhucbCKwZAO2XAPE6LUDGOQxtXOC6q8pjx9ZeHr750Mm2D8J6kh7zP4bVmGO62QZIMOll9DmG98wofPWvalb3qNqjYI4CxcXC0dVt48UPTElJ-tkoSEDOIo_MIN1N6k3VlSJoKV3juypgZE/s627/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.01.06.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="467" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhucbCKwZAO2XAPE6LUDGOQxtXOC6q8pjx9ZeHr750Mm2D8J6kh7zP4bVmGO62QZIMOll9DmG98wofPWvalb3qNqjYI4CxcXC0dVt48UPTElJ-tkoSEDOIo_MIN1N6k3VlSJoKV3juypgZE/w373-h500/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.01.06.png" width="373" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Innan hon ger sig på att klättra upp på nästa...<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Sent på kvällen, efter 10timmars klättring är vi nere vid bivack hyttan vid Couvercle, nöjda och glada intar vi en storartad middag i gott sällskap och med en bra portion kaffe.</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Slänger omkull oss i bädden och intar 4h timmars sömn innan vi åter startat espresso bryggaren för att knata upp till Aiguille du Moine´s östvägg och ger på så nästa Contamine tur, i spåret av le professur de </p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">l´Ensa, Ecole National Ski et Alpinism, som hade en sådan förmåga att leta upp fina klätterturer, och att klättra dom snabbt. Och vi hänger på bäst vi kan...</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Som vid sin bestigning av Dru, 700 höjdmeter, 7 pitonger och 7 timmar!</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit">Klart å betalt!!</font></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><font face="inherit"><br /></font></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHw8WSWTxU12UT2skuY877a8YPw1gGW_BmaRa1aBzhMuPtPy0nXVWHU_YYUAe1Uhwh5sV0Pt2xomHcJ5M2aFP28pWvQWFxTq6slX-ZLzkwNYg790Drb3tFUBVvH3d31KxFfS6z89sNaedt/s838/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.47.07.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="838" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHw8WSWTxU12UT2skuY877a8YPw1gGW_BmaRa1aBzhMuPtPy0nXVWHU_YYUAe1Uhwh5sV0Pt2xomHcJ5M2aFP28pWvQWFxTq6slX-ZLzkwNYg790Drb3tFUBVvH3d31KxFfS6z89sNaedt/w500-h376/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+12.47.07.png" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toppen av Moine<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwzNJS5RCP17MEE2WZZ8hxAx7JjNZjjtqrgDVDF1IpLcyjGwW2Sn1VOqJO-3-KR3uj64e1lS9RpKe3A6rbU-4Xl55DvHjnY-xZK_HRezRy4u5yZeXAbrRITDksHqnMtLukH2rZPF-jMpQA/s700/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+13.18.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="523" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwzNJS5RCP17MEE2WZZ8hxAx7JjNZjjtqrgDVDF1IpLcyjGwW2Sn1VOqJO-3-KR3uj64e1lS9RpKe3A6rbU-4Xl55DvHjnY-xZK_HRezRy4u5yZeXAbrRITDksHqnMtLukH2rZPF-jMpQA/w468-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+13.18.21.png" width="468" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Afterclimb på l´Hôtel Montanvers<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>Utrustning</b></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b><u>l´Evêque,</u></b> 1x50m rep, 1 litet set kilar, Grön-Röd Ailien, #0,75-#3 Camalot, #4 Kong Gypsy</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Isyxa, stegjärn</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Anmarsch från Ref Charpoua ca 40min</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">700m klättring i tidvis svårorienterade terräng, undvik att klättra upp på gendarmerna för en kortare dag, klättra upp på dem för att få den finaste klättringen.</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Tid mellan 10-12h</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Firning från toppen med 25m firningar, 7-8st</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Nedstigning till Glaciär du Talèfre på högersidan av passet, på klippan.</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcsAQD2DyneI7JxaqaV9yrIuD1FoOT1-9cf6t_rn3flUV0ONGgQIDuEdsK7msXmjtccx6rZgFhFC93pZWTvOQSly8Qfl5GBkwXGO-3wZoceVQ07ZIbyKNxjz4ubWLwps27cGaivhL1RZ-I/s656/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-10+kl.+14.32.04.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="548" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcsAQD2DyneI7JxaqaV9yrIuD1FoOT1-9cf6t_rn3flUV0ONGgQIDuEdsK7msXmjtccx6rZgFhFC93pZWTvOQSly8Qfl5GBkwXGO-3wZoceVQ07ZIbyKNxjz4ubWLwps27cGaivhL1RZ-I/w523-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-10+kl.+14.32.04.png" width="523" /></a></div><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><b>Utrustning Aiguille du Moine Voie Contamine</b></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">1x50m rep, 1 litet set kilar, Grön-Röd Ailien, #0,75-#3 Camalot, 8QD´s</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Nedstigning via normal leden på Moine, scrambling och ett antal 25m firningar.</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Mera info</p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55198/fr/aiguille-du-moine-voie-contamine-labrunie-face-e-</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4jwg7D63kxaPzAYkH55tO-j6U3wnG28i175Hhjw637nCpBY-HOS8wPjd71yGt98ArW-oPSm1hdljYUDeAos2FqUrt31gGHBaSM33kF_U6ieaghy2cA9E0SnsXG7m2OPiCnRzMDz9d5ly/s575/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+11.59.03.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="408" height="781" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4jwg7D63kxaPzAYkH55tO-j6U3wnG28i175Hhjw637nCpBY-HOS8wPjd71yGt98ArW-oPSm1hdljYUDeAos2FqUrt31gGHBaSM33kF_U6ieaghy2cA9E0SnsXG7m2OPiCnRzMDz9d5ly/w555-h781/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+11.59.03.png" width="555" /></a></div><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">//www.alpinemadness.se</h4><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhedn2SGTdpSHLyaY31xIZpplMjgXE3nv7Wci_OlTvscHrfLapdYhVixEiatHXCXV4sQC8rMUVR3a0ByBdxFfIBoXKl7QGduTM2eYTS3F5IJMbJ7doWHZrixI1P4GXx3FW1aPsUSziWzz6h/s697/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+11.57.15.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="525" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhedn2SGTdpSHLyaY31xIZpplMjgXE3nv7Wci_OlTvscHrfLapdYhVixEiatHXCXV4sQC8rMUVR3a0ByBdxFfIBoXKl7QGduTM2eYTS3F5IJMbJ7doWHZrixI1P4GXx3FW1aPsUSziWzz6h/w376-h500/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-07-11+kl.+11.57.15.png" width="376" /></a></div><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-47034527578172048922020-06-28T19:44:00.007+02:002020-06-29T13:42:17.610+02:00Le Bastillion - Aiguille du Midi Face Sud<font size="5"><b> Thunderstorm syndrome</b></font><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin9ZzjdakL9w4q_BoBxdKYzSk-jjae5dyaXGGikCsiv42KI-4xWXAXJEk2bKD78GMnpds_UW_U7CA8yrPE6UngnLeRzB0l3Z35RuemvFYarT-pYiuIDCfOlUX__B367j1ei7CwO9K5K-lx/s628/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.23.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="524" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin9ZzjdakL9w4q_BoBxdKYzSk-jjae5dyaXGGikCsiv42KI-4xWXAXJEk2bKD78GMnpds_UW_U7CA8yrPE6UngnLeRzB0l3Z35RuemvFYarT-pYiuIDCfOlUX__B367j1ei7CwO9K5K-lx/w523-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.23.png" width="523" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>All good for a great day of climbing on altitude on the aiguilles of Chamonix. </div><div>To make it an easy day, first days on attitude for some 3 months, the south face of Midi would do as the perfect choice. Easy access, stunning climbing, belle vue...on y va.</div><div>With a low slight risk of a overcast with a little chance of precipitation it should go fine with a 1/2 model of alpine start, going up with the telepherique at 09:00, and the route!? A mixture of lines trying to link all the big corner and cracks together to get a high level of climbing and a uniform level of climbing.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1MZcWeBANXJxi8HgoQzVkLZGjPjzOewZYvU_OXhQVRhwOuJGhWdhQWHWJKYGlFyjXLEFwwoSDDQP3FE5WgUdW3LRmriIcYO_LuPvXo53Jv2IPXhnMI7oGCRkUV6xz7b6Yo0YJLgSVkhT/s630/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.51.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="472" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1MZcWeBANXJxi8HgoQzVkLZGjPjzOewZYvU_OXhQVRhwOuJGhWdhQWHWJKYGlFyjXLEFwwoSDDQP3FE5WgUdW3LRmriIcYO_LuPvXo53Jv2IPXhnMI7oGCRkUV6xz7b6Yo0YJLgSVkhT/w469-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.51.png" width="469" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>As always, just the drive up the valley over viewing the surrounding mountains is surly breathtaking, each and every time. And with the knowledge that in some 15minuts your gona be stepping out of a telepherique at 3800mts, with out more effort than buying a ticket...on y va!</div><div><br /></div><div>Again as always, a few meeting with a few friends at the top. Happy faces with a great day a head coming up. Finally, after a couple of months covidement, who can complain? If you wanna sing there is always a song, on y va!!</div><div><br /></div><div>As always, the 15 min approach is as beautiful as ever, this year even better than in many years. With all the late cold weather and snow the arete du Midi is an easy one with most of the cracks well filled in.</div><div>Even the rimeye to get to the wall is still, at the end of june, in a very easy mode.</div><div><br /></div><div>As always, even though I have been at the poutre for more time than ever before (a broken foot syndrome), still the odd granit feeling is a strange one and the comfort zone is not yet back there.</div><div>But, a few meters climbing adds a few millimeters of confidens...so keep adding meters will help!?</div><div><br /></div><div>As always, the great feeling and friction of the mont blanc massif granit, its cracks and formations, is harder than remembered. But, fighting, cussin and growling, always pays back and a few pitches brings back the good feeling memories, happy crawling fingers!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqfrpsQTnbmAq9k-zhu0luGp7W9UnO_MtXi_L5I2qZWWOdrp5zcW0zpCIqax4MUQ39leHepP1n46FNzMErKI3DQgmb3J02LaG-xXyytes_n1hDun4FcnEQQ3ZBtrKy-9XSDx9Z9fXWC3V/s624/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.32.20.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Mazeud-Bastillion Combination" border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="467" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqfrpsQTnbmAq9k-zhu0luGp7W9UnO_MtXi_L5I2qZWWOdrp5zcW0zpCIqax4MUQ39leHepP1n46FNzMErKI3DQgmb3J02LaG-xXyytes_n1hDun4FcnEQQ3ZBtrKy-9XSDx9Z9fXWC3V/w469-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.32.20.png" title="Mazeud-Bastillion Combination" width="469" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many great pitches of the M-B variation<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>As always, my wife has come up with a great plan of ideas, and each and every pitch is better than the previous, linking the south face as the Bastillion of the sharp guillotine.</div><div>Something that really shows its reality when the recently named person, my wife, arrives at the upper belays on the 10th pitch</div><div>-Oh, is it snowing?</div><div>-Well yes, its been snowing for some 10 minutes alright. But as long as its only snowing it won´t be to slippery...</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigz0IBr7QXoH5aRkiAw5ZAbgQs21B3xSzQWzQM-M29AnB9Lpno-Q6Fb71zEolPRGbFMxYwWc6Ud4_Wz2Kxoi4g08rA3kbXbcNbcLnh8kkVvGtHNhOOEkVuzt1fzloaXdBF3-KjiY7kLdlj/s621/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-29+kl.+09.42.04.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="463" height="781" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigz0IBr7QXoH5aRkiAw5ZAbgQs21B3xSzQWzQM-M29AnB9Lpno-Q6Fb71zEolPRGbFMxYwWc6Ud4_Wz2Kxoi4g08rA3kbXbcNbcLnh8kkVvGtHNhOOEkVuzt1fzloaXdBF3-KjiY7kLdlj/w585-h781/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-29+kl.+09.42.04.png" width="585" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still good weather going on...<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>As always, it started to RAIN...*</div><div>Premier, I climbed the next pitch in a bit of heavy snow, then belaying Anna up in blue sky....before the big bang and the thunder road moved in full on!</div><div><br /></div><div>Now it turned from odd pleasure to really bad, hail; OK, snow; OK, rain; O...K, thunder; not OK!</div><div>Belaying Anna up the second last pitch things are fast moving into really bad, I can only watch as the normally good friction of rock goes into covered and plastered ice and snow.</div><div>And, at this pint there is only one way to go, that is up! </div><div>An other team of two has taken the road down on the final east wall of Midi, which would for the moment send them to a safer spot. but only into to nowhere to go, surrounded of loose rocks and no escape.</div><div>For me, there is only one goal at this point, bring the ice axes out and climb and dry-tool the uppest part to the top of Midi, find the anchors and make a s fast as possible traverse and rappel down AS POSSIBLE! </div><div>Then, with a safe rope over the aiguille, bringing Anna over when it has calmed down with lightning.</div><div>Now its survival mode sort of....</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFHT6WbK5DNNz1DNrYNKsLxqkIOOQzHWmawSGEfviSfpRtdBhyCrdJFt-IhixdH11p0FekwgxfmOZ6ZslvB5499xeLX-NPT-WuDWZGZrNQBAVLzSZO2VaEfeNoIDqpRWTsIJm2giNuIBo9/s623/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-29+kl.+09.41.51.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="466" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFHT6WbK5DNNz1DNrYNKsLxqkIOOQzHWmawSGEfviSfpRtdBhyCrdJFt-IhixdH11p0FekwgxfmOZ6ZslvB5499xeLX-NPT-WuDWZGZrNQBAVLzSZO2VaEfeNoIDqpRWTsIJm2giNuIBo9/w468-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-29+kl.+09.41.51.png" width="468" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>As always, my confidence grows with the task and mission. </div><div>-Whats the likeliness of being hit by a lightning, really!?</div><div>Well ok, at this point, being on the highest place in the area surrounded by metal installations, equipped with metal, crampons, ice axe, carabiners, wet ropes... oh la la, well its a small chance.</div><div>While hearing the sound and growling moving up, the bad feeling of being at the wrong place at the, ok, wrong time, I try to make distans to most of the iron stuff around when there is suddenly a;</div><div>BANG!!!</div><div>Ahh, someone is hammering my head hard and down; pushing, hammering, beating, everything at the same time. Thunderstruck, but luckily still there. Probably saved because I moved away from my hardware and was still on dry shoes with a good rubber sole. But a small dizzy feeling.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXc5aDxOdsRXI7ADhRjJY9-4OygjQ8k9mrdQfv5CtRgUBBN6rhFMyGe51RXjEv7FgC-z3BquzRqdhnGK5ap0M8SltVo8zkREFOdHQ8gl9Doet60bmBfBA8-xrbnHO7BTc2uRaHA33X1Meg/s625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.32.05.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="471" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXc5aDxOdsRXI7ADhRjJY9-4OygjQ8k9mrdQfv5CtRgUBBN6rhFMyGe51RXjEv7FgC-z3BquzRqdhnGK5ap0M8SltVo8zkREFOdHQ8gl9Doet60bmBfBA8-xrbnHO7BTc2uRaHA33X1Meg/w470-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.32.05.png" width="470" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the exposed Midi summit</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcLYip6lAJ8n2-rNw2NUfICca4Be-llxTQKXlRLL0mrDmJjGpoSHtzS5AsU6dQeN0qTAhJmy_FxreAxJj7nnyFmmhkNEzLWP16bFJC3M9b7J2PXfn2HbylkyAUB45N5ZhN7RDD7yFQKS1/s626/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.37.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="469" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcLYip6lAJ8n2-rNw2NUfICca4Be-llxTQKXlRLL0mrDmJjGpoSHtzS5AsU6dQeN0qTAhJmy_FxreAxJj7nnyFmmhkNEzLWP16bFJC3M9b7J2PXfn2HbylkyAUB45N5ZhN7RDD7yFQKS1/w469-h625/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.37.png" width="469" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in safety<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>-shit, I´ve been hit by lightning... I wonder if there will be one more? Is that really possible?? Two times at the same day???</div><div>Pricing my foresight, I still have our rappel rope out and not in the bag, so I can quickly organize that one for the rappel still being on the lead rope to bring Anna over when all is ready.</div><div>Which in a long minute brings me down to the safety of the both of us, securing and untying from the ropes, cache all the metal stuff and just waiting out the last thundering and happily cheering as it moves away. Quickly belaying Anna up and over the needle and down again to safer safety.</div><div>Then, watching the other team stranded in nowhere as the lightning is picking up again.</div><div><br /></div><div>-we need to get them a rope!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRMBs44XZqrdB_MRag6AQrniXWLaMW7uoNYk8rJSOgKEstu1hdJsNdU1OeRZAoJFKtlf7yAynW9GYgIztIPhndV0GBasDKoU33BmzJ8VClZJp0zyLZyDoxk-urNSKZSCKB2qE3K04GdLA/s630/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.10.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="357" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRMBs44XZqrdB_MRag6AQrniXWLaMW7uoNYk8rJSOgKEstu1hdJsNdU1OeRZAoJFKtlf7yAynW9GYgIztIPhndV0GBasDKoU33BmzJ8VClZJp0zyLZyDoxk-urNSKZSCKB2qE3K04GdLA/w363-h640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-28+kl.+19.31.10.png" title="A´int a great place to be..." width="363" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One team of 2 lost in nowhere...but we could manage to get them a safe rope<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>1hour later and we are all, stranded climbers as well, are safe down with a, as always, nice cup of "noisette" @<i>Café vertical</i> in moder home Chamonix!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz7YPjt2alCxwaPlyd2ooswQ9HXfToN3xzvE4of_1irCiSBfOMsH4PJwmRN-F8NDHzuasR82GKUU-qjn772RSOgcqUkkA5cbtVkThT9YUGsiaz8A1B4R_z3quU-9Y89UztYrF-Bq0IHTKh/s656/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-29+kl.+09.38.50.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="592" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz7YPjt2alCxwaPlyd2ooswQ9HXfToN3xzvE4of_1irCiSBfOMsH4PJwmRN-F8NDHzuasR82GKUU-qjn772RSOgcqUkkA5cbtVkThT9YUGsiaz8A1B4R_z3quU-9Y89UztYrF-Bq0IHTKh/w451-h500/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-06-29+kl.+09.38.50.png" width="451" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aiguille du Midi Face Sud</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><b>Equipment</b></div><div>50m rope</div><div>2-3 of blue to red Alien</div><div>2 0.75-2 Camalot</div><div>1 small set of nuts</div><div>8-10 QD´s</div><div>Crampons, ice-axe, ice-screw </div><div>(Kong Omni bag, Haul bag, optimal)</div><div style="text-align: right;"> *well, OK, i exaggerated a bit here.</div>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-88257969215545361982020-04-13T18:52:00.000+02:002020-04-27T14:04:56.718+02:00Keb Lines 2020<h4>
The winter of 2020 is going to be remembered as a much different winter in many ways.<br />The winter of 2020 also delivered a lot of snow in the north of Scandinavia. Around Riksgränsen we could see bigger amounts of snow than ever in modern times. Not those huge amounts around Kebnekasie, but still more than usually. Almost like in the "old days"</h4>
<h4>
This area isn't very crowded to start with, and 2020 with the world wide virus going on, hitting each and every little ski resort. So of course this remote place got the share of it as well. Suddenly CONVID-19 was on each and everybody lips, the oddest thing with the staff and local tourists did have much effect of it, almost not even understanding what was going on really. And then that suddenly everyone started to cancel their visits, well as with a lot of other really surrealistic things, it just didn't feel for real.</h4>
We arrived in Nikkaloukta and headed up to Kebnekasie STF station with a weather forecast that could mean anything and everything. But, at least the snowpack felt stable, with cold weather predicted.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Cascade du Quarantaine </h4>
Since I was a bit in to ice-mode we first headed for an ice-fall a bit lower down towards Nikkaloukta, some 10km more to the east.<br />
A route that I scanned on the way up the week before, that looked like a nice un-climbed project, possible 2 pitches.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOE_kbwA6viPqZWuXu5x-Czwoq_ldA9N00Zxw3qSMnNEhgYv5ATBHjfKxjYNqWjXnZanzVS3hZPX-FvVhj1DrfCyJe5a1sXHsUYTCCt0o7IjRqrY1hmpedpXJFKftiNI8MIPiKDqbHMvE/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-09+kl.+16.27.41.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOE_kbwA6viPqZWuXu5x-Czwoq_ldA9N00Zxw3qSMnNEhgYv5ATBHjfKxjYNqWjXnZanzVS3hZPX-FvVhj1DrfCyJe5a1sXHsUYTCCt0o7IjRqrY1hmpedpXJFKftiNI8MIPiKDqbHMvE/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-09+kl.+16.27.41.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbxHAeLzQSWA2VZjD-IGYUzvsKIzxQIVW0ew5Chf1_3lHFd4KDDcQr__FnGpx8c_xcXH95BKI67Ip3HAM4ND1-wAs7ZdY6IpmebhAvLQxE4cuo7mISlKQIo_6mlgGpD0k-8HsSoPtA3Gb/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.43.52.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbxHAeLzQSWA2VZjD-IGYUzvsKIzxQIVW0ew5Chf1_3lHFd4KDDcQr__FnGpx8c_xcXH95BKI67Ip3HAM4ND1-wAs7ZdY6IpmebhAvLQxE4cuo7mISlKQIo_6mlgGpD0k-8HsSoPtA3Gb/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.43.52.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQ3hQd8taWHPDqQJ5dKRjYO6RdF4goXwCeylUpz93MqNhLFAb0bgTHDGzfSneXP5cCezy7jPNzaPjYFZaGsnw0hiD_CPoT8dk-YzzjvwQ30NXCMtoK9RGJ778LT7ZhCN7pJswI_nqvdO3/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.50.53.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="731" data-original-width="559" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQ3hQd8taWHPDqQJ5dKRjYO6RdF4goXwCeylUpz93MqNhLFAb0bgTHDGzfSneXP5cCezy7jPNzaPjYFZaGsnw0hiD_CPoT8dk-YzzjvwQ30NXCMtoK9RGJ778LT7ZhCN7pJswI_nqvdO3/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.50.53.png" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna on the first pitch of Cascade du Quarantine, WI5+</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5wk3oG7kCwr-SsGBo5XxHVG2XasZG2eicsr2nBdMG6PrB-jXVIyKNiGbbpUsT1q0DUyd3-rvH-ZQ5xTFkH-SKdfD77wctlcwUbvFX2bANA48iuAwbUQOoOsAJMAO_2wMVCPz6Nzvyqdt/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.51.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="748" data-original-width="570" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5wk3oG7kCwr-SsGBo5XxHVG2XasZG2eicsr2nBdMG6PrB-jXVIyKNiGbbpUsT1q0DUyd3-rvH-ZQ5xTFkH-SKdfD77wctlcwUbvFX2bANA48iuAwbUQOoOsAJMAO_2wMVCPz6Nzvyqdt/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.51.08.png" width="303" /></a>Arriving at the base it looked even steeper than on distans, with an interesting roof to pass some 10-15m up and then straight up for a vertical section that turned out to be good solid climbing as well.<br />
Finally we even got a third pitch of 45m up some shorter sections of 90° ice. In total 3 pitches of up to WI5+ on great stalactites and solid ice moments<br />
<b>Cascade du Quarantine </b><br />
3 pitches<br />
WI5+<br />
Location; Between the great ice line "Coeur du Giant" and "Couloir du Elan"<br />
Descent, same line on abalakovs<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZZzWC4a-VxhmV4WPtrwUaJ8UbCyR1wPokzs2Rv0oIQHgUOLdvpuVE28AzD3btQBYoJlmsLQWz9uLxmCO1hREeDX_pCAA8GTVgjihKOaSie8sYTPN5okYaUMErWnWOXe0YvsHUupBx-u4x/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-09+kl.+16.28.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZZzWC4a-VxhmV4WPtrwUaJ8UbCyR1wPokzs2Rv0oIQHgUOLdvpuVE28AzD3btQBYoJlmsLQWz9uLxmCO1hREeDX_pCAA8GTVgjihKOaSie8sYTPN5okYaUMErWnWOXe0YvsHUupBx-u4x/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-09+kl.+16.28.58.png" width="492" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cascade du Quarantine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After two days of stormy weather it finally cleared up and we could head out for our planned tour over to the area of Nallo and Vistas.<br />
This area is more to the north of Kebnekaise and even more remote, like really remote. The access on skis normally takes two days or one big day. Depending on the size of your back pack.<br />
But the effort is worth all the sweat! This area has a huge numbers of great lines, un-skied lines!!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLMTxfNDUwcNyxTom1hXqzLPYe2P8yR02YFmrfW1QU6yNUMX1o_OfePnjySgtvrqeyS5BTp2zv1Wa_0vRcBz257Z7l55tQ221QnBMmj5HHRmZr-9at52xQAlOb-iax2hkq8SIjlac8_i6/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.23.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLMTxfNDUwcNyxTom1hXqzLPYe2P8yR02YFmrfW1QU6yNUMX1o_OfePnjySgtvrqeyS5BTp2zv1Wa_0vRcBz257Z7l55tQ221QnBMmj5HHRmZr-9at52xQAlOb-iax2hkq8SIjlac8_i6/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.23.04.png" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The great view overlooking Toulpagorni / Kebnekaise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPNTAsKU03netro3uHVBZLv8iBWtGlfg3x9Aeih5zeYQ9V2a1ZtFvzFEjsKVhtbber_p_bbmPgHmW1SSQ1yiz7WcjQMh7v9VfAEM_ZFBAg57HOSZmOQornC4NbZ_faxdz-5rUh5P4yX5L/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.52.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="564" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPNTAsKU03netro3uHVBZLv8iBWtGlfg3x9Aeih5zeYQ9V2a1ZtFvzFEjsKVhtbber_p_bbmPgHmW1SSQ1yiz7WcjQMh7v9VfAEM_ZFBAg57HOSZmOQornC4NbZ_faxdz-5rUh5P4yX5L/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.52.04.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The obligatoire Reindeer stop in Nikkaloukta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our warm up tour to Tjäkktjatjåkka is quickly turned into a little more and bigger tour to the neighbor of Tjäkktjabakte and its spectacular looking east face.<br />
A quick detour to pick up some more alpine stuff like crampons, ice-axes, harnesses and a short rappel rope and with the great blue skies we was on our first, and very much improvised mission!<br />
Our 3hour schedule to the summit turned out to be very correct and at 15:30 I hiked the last bit towards the summit corniche. which I respectfully stayed away from as much as I could, just taking a short shortcut towards what looked like a safe place to get an idea of the ridge going down to the run.<br />
Suddenly I see a crack line that is detaching the corniche and at the same moment as a jump left the whole thing just disappears down the face, still with me happily on the just departed top, #&%?!, sigh....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
With an other of these cat lives just disappearing we at least had gotten a good test of the snowslopes below us, everything that stil is on place should be more than solid to ski, sort of!<br />
After a short debriefing I start down the first section of mid-steep terrain where Anna joins me before a short exposed traverse to the next section of a steeper couloir. And then into a bigger area of more open and less exposed skiing down to the valley, a good descent of almost 750 vertical meters.<br />
Don't fall!!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpje0w22nBh4JBWbxTZf6KQ6M0makbLv-nwrHOobRQgPRjzopcGS_XDkB9e5SI2xhASFlr6lDRemV7KZxMNagKEDEZMziW0KgvWADi25eUmSH-8e-sQc6xcoy-bQYdWJJTVm_6BbgFUuFC/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.53.05.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="568" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpje0w22nBh4JBWbxTZf6KQ6M0makbLv-nwrHOobRQgPRjzopcGS_XDkB9e5SI2xhASFlr6lDRemV7KZxMNagKEDEZMziW0KgvWADi25eUmSH-8e-sQc6xcoy-bQYdWJJTVm_6BbgFUuFC/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.53.05.png" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tjäkktjabakti östvägg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGd0zd7UlsZZWtws-p8INasWzrlxEgNbj4yufREhUxkFBzxCS3Drp9Kr0uHMFHjs4geQLBHWB-2WFOkUJnu5zxZ0CHyLM7td-_aPta_jys6AQX23uXJBn4Rl4zG3_MgO_K1QuFMO4S7ha/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.53.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="1002" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGd0zd7UlsZZWtws-p8INasWzrlxEgNbj4yufREhUxkFBzxCS3Drp9Kr0uHMFHjs4geQLBHWB-2WFOkUJnu5zxZ0CHyLM7td-_aPta_jys6AQX23uXJBn4Rl4zG3_MgO_K1QuFMO4S7ha/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.53.18.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep on Tjäkktja Bakti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KGmCdb09nzEdQATfdNv6TrGDYm2t9HB1ESotMflw3KmNQbcFEN5Z7tdY9Zi00Zuj2qPEhcuOH_r03PcW060qJiLW_3VTAanHID31BhvrYEx1UOYNsVhBh6DySeCBFeP51P8kk20rlIhx/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.53.51.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="1005" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KGmCdb09nzEdQATfdNv6TrGDYm2t9HB1ESotMflw3KmNQbcFEN5Z7tdY9Zi00Zuj2qPEhcuOH_r03PcW060qJiLW_3VTAanHID31BhvrYEx1UOYNsVhBh6DySeCBFeP51P8kk20rlIhx/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.53.51.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some great turns finishing on Tjäkktja Bakti Östvägg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Tjäkktjabakti Östvägg</b><br />
5:1/S5/E:3/ 54° - 750m<br />
Crampons, Iceaxe, sometimes maybe a short rope to make some 10-15m rappel is necessary<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2ul5eXSGzojKDln62lyjo33KRGQvz36LMkz4lIk6E4l-fcwWOpjysCIPm-LrsoNncp51pIIOOD4FbemTcCjlfodmLhGBy6zuQYOqXtOexfm093z5bDqg4zOWgu8dKLjrJa8wr-e00rgx/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.51.53.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="568" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2ul5eXSGzojKDln62lyjo33KRGQvz36LMkz4lIk6E4l-fcwWOpjysCIPm-LrsoNncp51pIIOOD4FbemTcCjlfodmLhGBy6zuQYOqXtOexfm093z5bDqg4zOWgu8dKLjrJa8wr-e00rgx/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmklipp+2020-04-27+13.51.53.png" width="484" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The local `Fjällväder´ in Kebnekaise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Sielmma Batni Couloir</h4>
This as a couloir that I have been looking on for quite a few years, just a brilliant line which is cut deep in the mountain dividing the small looking tooth from "Flint nålarna"<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje1GTw8MXFcQ4Q2HuzzTUJHiUsxgcqZgwAhZGkSCB-rxVTd9DeCW4h8ep15Mf5g3nO0Ro7ZMinz7pZgyqcYoEd02yqJK1iOTak-GaGFcTwFU59Y4lHpZ-clW8qd3ij8d9nu7jsC3xSb7IU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+18.36.56.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="520" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje1GTw8MXFcQ4Q2HuzzTUJHiUsxgcqZgwAhZGkSCB-rxVTd9DeCW4h8ep15Mf5g3nO0Ro7ZMinz7pZgyqcYoEd02yqJK1iOTak-GaGFcTwFU59Y4lHpZ-clW8qd3ij8d9nu7jsC3xSb7IU/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+18.36.56.png" width="578" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the LINE!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Easy to access via the route towards Sielmma tjåkka, but then heading up towards the corniche of Flintnålarna. A bit of tricky skiing down to the saddle and then...just a beautiful line with not even a death potential!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNYB-J3EdB1wNtdGJsmaZO0E0s29yUs5hTIh1zPykn5mOgv-qYgGurydzBTMgrUsB6cmVf236EBDScNXgBOvJpxkj2iNhvYfgLmq72AACiO5jI8OA49T2paF4p7SynuNzxYawhsntm3Qd/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.28.23.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="526" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNYB-J3EdB1wNtdGJsmaZO0E0s29yUs5hTIh1zPykn5mOgv-qYgGurydzBTMgrUsB6cmVf236EBDScNXgBOvJpxkj2iNhvYfgLmq72AACiO5jI8OA49T2paF4p7SynuNzxYawhsntm3Qd/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.28.23.png" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overlooking the couloir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Sielmma Batni couloir</b><br />
5:3/S7/E:2/ 63° - 400m<br />
Crampons, Iceaxe, harness, 40m rope<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Q_pF9SLwRTgOUkfuiFcBwhzebVi7jQbf1HDGiiuISOVDH716HYh-k5xXrb_5OOtlLU1S1l8JL1uNEcmrD59Zl2ulLlY6BWi_fTtkzKIUXDVz235FQe3Nw-FUggqgYgcQ5tncUlPyim3b/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.29.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="931" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Q_pF9SLwRTgOUkfuiFcBwhzebVi7jQbf1HDGiiuISOVDH716HYh-k5xXrb_5OOtlLU1S1l8JL1uNEcmrD59Zl2ulLlY6BWi_fTtkzKIUXDVz235FQe3Nw-FUggqgYgcQ5tncUlPyim3b/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.29.40.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great times on Sielmma Batni couloir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZuNEDIZmujXYbLDce00YMqd4ydbRS_rT7Apq3NlWQABk6h9InFGz96qpO2IPj27DjXtfFduhyphenhyphenMV1CnTWwvT2hRucMGUAfL8DaxU_jQuk6FKmoj8bkm8s8R-d3ZNxrzvKfr_UULmwp2c1e/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.29.28.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZuNEDIZmujXYbLDce00YMqd4ydbRS_rT7Apq3NlWQABk6h9InFGz96qpO2IPj27DjXtfFduhyphenhyphenMV1CnTWwvT2hRucMGUAfL8DaxU_jQuk6FKmoj8bkm8s8R-d3ZNxrzvKfr_UULmwp2c1e/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.29.28.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic jump and turn!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZE0yyGi2DZ_tbu1LIcikDRDb3OAEV5beinbA4W8VOcLnaOVsUOADbFmosxtfaTl1FMiDLilun-7awDgZWkZfe06KUUmu4kHUvy3uvNQDDHcMGvyMS9n8iLPl7eAZ66ErYp1pqvMNiMNgG/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.30.23.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZE0yyGi2DZ_tbu1LIcikDRDb3OAEV5beinbA4W8VOcLnaOVsUOADbFmosxtfaTl1FMiDLilun-7awDgZWkZfe06KUUmu4kHUvy3uvNQDDHcMGvyMS9n8iLPl7eAZ66ErYp1pqvMNiMNgG/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.30.23.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening planing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b>Couloir du Silence - summit 1762 (or 1750 on old maps)</b></h4>
This is an other obvious line from an unnamed mountain above to the north of the Nallo hut.<br />
It holds a couple of lines down its south looking face.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3HtF-oobsF_SAKuqDrjgals31n0WNVWRbF5rjf9lGNIdDJwocvmD1OHojEhF1MF94U9Kn5FGbwhV_fsCSx1ucHx7d-wFU2JmEdnCOuyn9lzV4bF2fch28Mq-uE3xkixpX8J30pqFhyphenhyphen8q/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.30.34.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3HtF-oobsF_SAKuqDrjgals31n0WNVWRbF5rjf9lGNIdDJwocvmD1OHojEhF1MF94U9Kn5FGbwhV_fsCSx1ucHx7d-wFU2JmEdnCOuyn9lzV4bF2fch28Mq-uE3xkixpX8J30pqFhyphenhyphen8q/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.30.34.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna, finally, on the summit ridge of "1762"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
the access is best made over the small lake below 1880 and then up the north face. We put on our crampons quite low and booted up, the last bit was a fight with the suger snow covering the rocks, but after a couple of tries we finally made it. Must more difficult than it looks!<br />
Once on the ridge its a safe last approach and then a cool line which never goes steeper than 45°<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQAvT-YH2nG_dfiIOF9JKWAU4Oz02lGwtqLyqw2u06X-qLbU_LHhJ68aFhi8Y8ENb0eTaVA1LFFxDVcel_z3m5tmLEA1Ftq4NkUcwVkOySpxBnMyJmQNKWoIhuU_VIxrzvw-SnYpoyXF5/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+18.49.24.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="646" height="558" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQAvT-YH2nG_dfiIOF9JKWAU4Oz02lGwtqLyqw2u06X-qLbU_LHhJ68aFhi8Y8ENb0eTaVA1LFFxDVcel_z3m5tmLEA1Ftq4NkUcwVkOySpxBnMyJmQNKWoIhuU_VIxrzvw-SnYpoyXF5/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+18.49.24.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couloir du Silence</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Couloir du Silence</b><br />
PD 4:1/S4/E1 45° - 800m<br />
Crampons, iceaxe<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMck7TzC5wUcx23RMgbbOSIyx6IfBr3gcPX7SaD24DBMgvzd4DEBVvh5zUih_tOkOsDtTAzIrAfAjTk4WMrxrPPWX5Z49mXqLn3auLHnz6neD607JLS0o-BSWTSZIkJ0tZ0x-KcPHFNyNT/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.30.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMck7TzC5wUcx23RMgbbOSIyx6IfBr3gcPX7SaD24DBMgvzd4DEBVvh5zUih_tOkOsDtTAzIrAfAjTk4WMrxrPPWX5Z49mXqLn3auLHnz6neD607JLS0o-BSWTSZIkJ0tZ0x-KcPHFNyNT/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.30.48.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couloir skiing!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTC1hICAdO0wcOlP4VnUTlIYf2OqnTEyS7HzbwcCP4ojjDHA_ps72_cGVxanxXF3qQe-7yxi6t8Cl49UfEBYhXsj0G6dsRINN-zAZBAzKkM6FZR2HUdm0p1sanyqnfwp9J_wguNd18g80-/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.27.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="526" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTC1hICAdO0wcOlP4VnUTlIYf2OqnTEyS7HzbwcCP4ojjDHA_ps72_cGVxanxXF3qQe-7yxi6t8Cl49UfEBYhXsj0G6dsRINN-zAZBAzKkM6FZR2HUdm0p1sanyqnfwp9J_wguNd18g80-/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.27.35.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keb Lines 2020</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b>Couloir HanZo</b></h4>
Unfortunately everything has an end, so as this one. After some great remote days we needed to head back towards Tarfala and Kebnekaise again, cause of the food issue...!<br />
On the way we picked a route that would give us a few longer and slightly steeper descents, before ending up in the valley of Tarfala. Since the weather had been more than perfect the last days we expected and got a hard northern wind with really cold air. But, luckily mostly in our backs.<br />
Once back in the Tarfala terrain we scanned an other line to bring with us. This time from the east side of Norra Klippberget, just above the Tarfala refuge.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjaTlqVKfmHheCEmYztAHM7GH1sLWdYg7iKSg_iYyMazQI7NElRM7f-aSpPORU2A-lfv6hE94im7xzcAqeEzGHWQHhb92PYNDY_-F4aURZPQa6ZLmUF0JGG1-VVIlw4rjTPoPs_91YBAH/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.42.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjaTlqVKfmHheCEmYztAHM7GH1sLWdYg7iKSg_iYyMazQI7NElRM7f-aSpPORU2A-lfv6hE94im7xzcAqeEzGHWQHhb92PYNDY_-F4aURZPQa6ZLmUF0JGG1-VVIlw4rjTPoPs_91YBAH/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.42.10.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HanZo Couloir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A short skinning up Isfallsglaciären and then a section on crampons and some easy, very easy, scrambling ups to the east summit and the ridge of the peak. Payback, a beautiful couloir down the north looking face to the 1150m lake. No obstacles, just pure semi-steep skiing. A line to finish the Keb Line season with!!<br />
<br />
<b>HanZo Couloir</b><br />
F 4:1/S4/E1 45° - 500m<br />
Crampons, iceaxe<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyj9hl3hU7KSQcHcIVQvD1lA_ZdrmlA1T3NSrrPJx7hxufisu_6l9Mu83393W8T_I58LyGsT6fB7vXQe99Xf56WIQoYA3FylMkc7Yu5tsgct9n6oB8yy33dkURywx2FnxRhWTEirEKj0r7/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.41.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="523" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyj9hl3hU7KSQcHcIVQvD1lA_ZdrmlA1T3NSrrPJx7hxufisu_6l9Mu83393W8T_I58LyGsT6fB7vXQe99Xf56WIQoYA3FylMkc7Yu5tsgct9n6oB8yy33dkURywx2FnxRhWTEirEKj0r7/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.41.49.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun meter ON!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wS_s32P8RkJvBQPp8SXxcqUxH843KK8k1gogAPAXejQWZxqeyPSwTe5aQVBtJ-yANO0B_KK8R89tIYMzqLJd9BpQOswpKr5jtJPN2KliXxilteLigwf3EqL69p-WMFJ-fqQQ9lWmD1hv/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.42.00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wS_s32P8RkJvBQPp8SXxcqUxH843KK8k1gogAPAXejQWZxqeyPSwTe5aQVBtJ-yANO0B_KK8R89tIYMzqLJd9BpQOswpKr5jtJPN2KliXxilteLigwf3EqL69p-WMFJ-fqQQ9lWmD1hv/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.42.00.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HanZo Couloir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4zDKptYCrJJn9HgylLL_yzHybdaYZlnDfYtea7P2BFhY0VCsyUD_F5RcAF9bLLSEbZpFxGtm8Sa9H7dOZ5nmcFDntOl_gosiFnRgQ_fhwvzH114z8B4bqGICgVW7np_9bQP4THZfOZFTE/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.42.24.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="931" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4zDKptYCrJJn9HgylLL_yzHybdaYZlnDfYtea7P2BFhY0VCsyUD_F5RcAF9bLLSEbZpFxGtm8Sa9H7dOZ5nmcFDntOl_gosiFnRgQ_fhwvzH114z8B4bqGICgVW7np_9bQP4THZfOZFTE/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.42.24.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<i><b>//Keb lines 2020</b></i><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetSl-N0Pb90bK8_pRSAXUm9kN1uc3mjGbyRU7Li4zlFp7cmpfVscfGCzkp0_mDjEJF8_RPa04QeKO9K6QvEL4nC8r-Ly5MVrI6EElNo0BelANDr1SvH7NYlWtElTutMQv3S4wE_UH9UPU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.29.57.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="524" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetSl-N0Pb90bK8_pRSAXUm9kN1uc3mjGbyRU7Li4zlFp7cmpfVscfGCzkp0_mDjEJF8_RPa04QeKO9K6QvEL4nC8r-Ly5MVrI6EElNo0BelANDr1SvH7NYlWtElTutMQv3S4wE_UH9UPU/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-04-13+kl.+17.29.57.png" width="298" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<br /></div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-39965271161063348642020-03-16T13:44:00.000+01:002020-03-16T13:44:07.579+01:00Khibiny Mountains - Kola Peninsula<h3>
In times of mild and dry winters the area of Kola Peninsula is a snow safe place to visit.<br />Not famous for huge amounts of snow like the Japanese mountain range, but due to its far north location it is manly cold winters starting already in october.</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQkVkWtWNFuK9rGgZEuvjTCskEaSaKL7L_0PDteuTsZoSgTX6C6O1CY3vUtTy4FSoxDNhKWJ-Cbas2jI0nuGee4k7gDHsXAng29sgTnhpnROP2sHnKIJtEQf1QBneMz6PAPFr9CVF8M2Y/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.24.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="1253" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQkVkWtWNFuK9rGgZEuvjTCskEaSaKL7L_0PDteuTsZoSgTX6C6O1CY3vUtTy4FSoxDNhKWJ-Cbas2jI0nuGee4k7gDHsXAng29sgTnhpnROP2sHnKIJtEQf1QBneMz6PAPFr9CVF8M2Y/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.24.40.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzU0FY15-8rOv3EAhH6XoSHsRgQPOk51tPYwIQEzj6M8ENFzN2ihH-AxPfKiRyEkXHfRD9BnhxaSI8gfDl5dKAutPusMv0ldq13ITd5PUTrIGPwwKqOLM1N7GFd4PmU425cflMQelSV6X/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.23.36.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="419" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzU0FY15-8rOv3EAhH6XoSHsRgQPOk51tPYwIQEzj6M8ENFzN2ihH-AxPfKiRyEkXHfRD9BnhxaSI8gfDl5dKAutPusMv0ldq13ITd5PUTrIGPwwKqOLM1N7GFd4PmU425cflMQelSV6X/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.23.36.png" width="266" /></a>As a comparison most of the skiing in Japan is between 40-45° latitude, the Khibiny mountains are close to 70°latitude! Something that has been a problem this year in Japan with many ski resorts that has kept closed due to lack of or no snow at all.<br />
<br />
We started an 11 dat ski-trip from St Petersburg and then train to Apatity, with one day of skiing in the ski area of Kirovsk. Before heading out to a Refuge 20km from the road end, surrounded by mountains up to alost 1200m high.<br />
<br />
Supported at the refuge by our Russian staff which served a good variation of traditional Russian food and drinks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a great area to visit from March until mid May, but for the cold snow March is probably the best time. Earlier in February it is still quite short days.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rFVBfoZ6UIXGiMIitWpPWrxSxc6sIGrs64irC1H532HvFDBxIL859hJTTipxtvUI_4FCVquv3ImyXC2yQA48LX8eHD-yZCitOnuP_nnC_8wE3YHfpNcf2ITadq3K5JR19maxVOKVQMgo/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.24.15.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="473" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rFVBfoZ6UIXGiMIitWpPWrxSxc6sIGrs64irC1H532HvFDBxIL859hJTTipxtvUI_4FCVquv3ImyXC2yQA48LX8eHD-yZCitOnuP_nnC_8wE3YHfpNcf2ITadq3K5JR19maxVOKVQMgo/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.24.15.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending towards the town of Kirovsk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAbY0VFFF3jpgEmeU7jgWeeWIJxkdOH6RyWp91aU5laNUjV81lJPOieFPGXvIOWbGYM5tMG1DvlwuYSzxfHsEmDRakEuvUZcPAX2s5R2q6Gr27I5Jr8y89nF6x-b3hAlSs4WqMZedBl4D/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.28.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="471" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAbY0VFFF3jpgEmeU7jgWeeWIJxkdOH6RyWp91aU5laNUjV81lJPOieFPGXvIOWbGYM5tMG1DvlwuYSzxfHsEmDRakEuvUZcPAX2s5R2q6Gr27I5Jr8y89nF6x-b3hAlSs4WqMZedBl4D/s320/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.28.49.png" width="240" /></a>A combination with the very punctual Russian trains givs the whole trip a bit more of adventure when you end up seeing areas that one might not be existing.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
But the trains it self are very trustful and have a good reputation to always be on time, which we can only agree on after our journey. Including a very good train restaurant, well, except the coffee.</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
You just need to book the tickets well in advance and choose 2nd or 3rd class...depends on the experience that you want!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQSFslsgvCcq5OJ0-jZ_k8lT9EZhhiG3wcfm5U0wGxJYEQxenmqeu3wqhgSqnDyZLiXXAoHgu35NcdRU3SBz_v7_RlxUuuLxmeDv09NV0PLiDRFPMUOrgkM0UHEcAJh6XNz7CSy6RHjoV/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.23.59.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="833" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQSFslsgvCcq5OJ0-jZ_k8lT9EZhhiG3wcfm5U0wGxJYEQxenmqeu3wqhgSqnDyZLiXXAoHgu35NcdRU3SBz_v7_RlxUuuLxmeDv09NV0PLiDRFPMUOrgkM0UHEcAJh6XNz7CSy6RHjoV/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.23.59.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cjpFJI4r-p1BFQ4TkZk1Km1lEUsT5cL4cq-hHBd-Rx_ZwtBaZg1993jZJ7DUTKhC8owgmM36SIPJ5TsBsjJt12j1R658tecUcmFcQNhOhfO_zXwcMhly_0_R605eI9dRmA7-RwuvYOWE/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.29.12.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="355" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cjpFJI4r-p1BFQ4TkZk1Km1lEUsT5cL4cq-hHBd-Rx_ZwtBaZg1993jZJ7DUTKhC8owgmM36SIPJ5TsBsjJt12j1R658tecUcmFcQNhOhfO_zXwcMhly_0_R605eI9dRmA7-RwuvYOWE/s320/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.29.12.png" width="202" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMHFoI6vTKX_BEJ15ZWtWNag48vZLfWIYBzrz2z3ybL41_UdsmpU5n0TmXG2IL1u_5mkF3mUZoIpJ-c8L5xMC5OsAF8hTjVjfxZC9PfRgGb23Uo0SW1YjrVlwpP5kfiL9JXQllOMJLL830/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.25.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="469" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMHFoI6vTKX_BEJ15ZWtWNag48vZLfWIYBzrz2z3ybL41_UdsmpU5n0TmXG2IL1u_5mkF3mUZoIpJ-c8L5xMC5OsAF8hTjVjfxZC9PfRgGb23Uo0SW1YjrVlwpP5kfiL9JXQllOMJLL830/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-03-15+kl.+13.25.02.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SC7K1Uphiq4?rel=0" width="700"></iframe><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;">
For further information, please contact alpinemadness.se / Krister Jonsson</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-51313213553909711172020-02-25T17:01:00.001+01:002020-02-25T17:01:40.005+01:00Skitouring in the Balkans 2020 Our first trip to the Balkans, covering Albania, Kosovo and Makedonien with a good amount of fresh powder and great experience of skiing in the backyards of Europe.<br />
Skiing of the peaks that are up to 2800m and a good 1500m descent in a day.<br />
<br />
Via Alpinemadness.se we arranged this trip starting from Prishtina on a 7 day course inb the mountains of the Balkans.<br />
<br />
Next year might be your opportunity to join!?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1gLNaW_6x_9LcpDfWz1RYcqMrxEU95w9eTLP72B8d7LakSOJDHDe81I4ApMNetWJ_fh5_K22fEmqBFJKmGCMSP1MqgfEQL9D6g5FZS7lKJGY-3vtaIt33xKvI9nwNH2aXs6GBcLGXRsH2/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.24.22.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="1232" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1gLNaW_6x_9LcpDfWz1RYcqMrxEU95w9eTLP72B8d7LakSOJDHDe81I4ApMNetWJ_fh5_K22fEmqBFJKmGCMSP1MqgfEQL9D6g5FZS7lKJGY-3vtaIt33xKvI9nwNH2aXs6GBcLGXRsH2/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.24.22.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6liog-m8xVpQbkelH0bYgbmhzCuiZVvS_XSdsJeH9iXyIyZLzkrFnBK1bHdOI60BmF9UCBq8UXXC33Xs4WptdLyKoAQm1hs-n36npmZyJnQhJXs3nr-BMeGRSSgvxrpcYh8Q4YkuFBvM/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.27.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="835" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6liog-m8xVpQbkelH0bYgbmhzCuiZVvS_XSdsJeH9iXyIyZLzkrFnBK1bHdOI60BmF9UCBq8UXXC33Xs4WptdLyKoAQm1hs-n36npmZyJnQhJXs3nr-BMeGRSSgvxrpcYh8Q4YkuFBvM/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.27.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidk7E8TUcsHZ-FjA2VLz4yHPQhAc2MomsOUYTUUpwFcpaN0I7zWU37DbmpLyXO8Nq-hEzs24T-0C4lfJbpumWbbs42ZKZ4Kma8qMNnRSqcTBTSaeqbggPDKcRxnGDmMtLp7cKiAAVXL3Nt/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.22.03.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="838" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidk7E8TUcsHZ-FjA2VLz4yHPQhAc2MomsOUYTUUpwFcpaN0I7zWU37DbmpLyXO8Nq-hEzs24T-0C4lfJbpumWbbs42ZKZ4Kma8qMNnRSqcTBTSaeqbggPDKcRxnGDmMtLp7cKiAAVXL3Nt/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.22.03.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVV6J8eaPKVtrxrn3FgzKjl5mq9h1UhjZGhzA96668SQxAuNFxPMZBJ7vHJ_ZrJBoQ5tKWHtcNy3xQ_i04GBgclZlTYm5rp78LDttYWNEJw_mtdalMoBuTU5fhzICBdwJ2Plj4QhdP5Xme/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.22.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="912" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVV6J8eaPKVtrxrn3FgzKjl5mq9h1UhjZGhzA96668SQxAuNFxPMZBJ7vHJ_ZrJBoQ5tKWHtcNy3xQ_i04GBgclZlTYm5rp78LDttYWNEJw_mtdalMoBuTU5fhzICBdwJ2Plj4QhdP5Xme/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.22.58.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiesQwZcIUzSLulf2DOqUZyJs3iOHcYJybLnDRCWblSFuNA5GXghMtlBQ-jDqsFL4W3Qfl-fUkkOUJsRXM6X8Y_ICK6hgJeYwC4aGtpYIwUmOexAaNBupxlQYE1-lS3TA9Vo7liQaEhyphenhyphenGHj/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.21.22.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="833" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiesQwZcIUzSLulf2DOqUZyJs3iOHcYJybLnDRCWblSFuNA5GXghMtlBQ-jDqsFL4W3Qfl-fUkkOUJsRXM6X8Y_ICK6hgJeYwC4aGtpYIwUmOexAaNBupxlQYE1-lS3TA9Vo7liQaEhyphenhyphenGHj/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.21.22.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5RGtAZVYTZ3S2CaIuxQfBs-6piNA3qcoCGi8D-LO3-p-idYxKsOg-tY-Lqm6HdUxO1Kt-RWwTELNRAlEuk0B0WtyvJ6YZLTpdjkECawC_c3Qmb_uAmzdwIoxEUeIBzA47JfXFFNuNmvG5/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="873" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5RGtAZVYTZ3S2CaIuxQfBs-6piNA3qcoCGi8D-LO3-p-idYxKsOg-tY-Lqm6HdUxO1Kt-RWwTELNRAlEuk0B0WtyvJ6YZLTpdjkECawC_c3Qmb_uAmzdwIoxEUeIBzA47JfXFFNuNmvG5/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.18.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF1ZItxYpJ9KtrZdpdyB6IG6j2OpiCOsWsl_3XbFo0o_rdrtQXdKTNm2_8KU8saenaZPnGDCKvUp7wmGSJpwz5ug5cEVrj3FmPhImdtFNS094ajzVo6kKsuWOb0_AOyLKkBvOgvvvKjBqi/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.22.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="838" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF1ZItxYpJ9KtrZdpdyB6IG6j2OpiCOsWsl_3XbFo0o_rdrtQXdKTNm2_8KU8saenaZPnGDCKvUp7wmGSJpwz5ug5cEVrj3FmPhImdtFNS094ajzVo6kKsuWOb0_AOyLKkBvOgvvvKjBqi/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.22.18.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPVfcJQk21Gl5xP0wibcUOmbQ82KU5mOpvCuWVrh9uWDLnLswVhyYE3FZ_N6EABpUmkUISI2TcgRc2bhcdghz3V22tdhLlTSabsFXU3Xxxm_W786ULGCtq5jBHMdcELjG87Bdvtq52vTzL/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.24.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="835" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPVfcJQk21Gl5xP0wibcUOmbQ82KU5mOpvCuWVrh9uWDLnLswVhyYE3FZ_N6EABpUmkUISI2TcgRc2bhcdghz3V22tdhLlTSabsFXU3Xxxm_W786ULGCtq5jBHMdcELjG87Bdvtq52vTzL/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.24.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7P1byVoeVa6TXKxOhAIdKuGJM0Ps4sUX_1IdGRgo4l7uBs-qzd6UoqAxrI_BhTwvqaXajIk-4dFZ-XgA5B47Ps_lURBs4eM1LkNS98WqBBTCY2uM21ppu4sloUXO6Z5veKd9zwmiZ3srj/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.37.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="573" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7P1byVoeVa6TXKxOhAIdKuGJM0Ps4sUX_1IdGRgo4l7uBs-qzd6UoqAxrI_BhTwvqaXajIk-4dFZ-XgA5B47Ps_lURBs4eM1LkNS98WqBBTCY2uM21ppu4sloUXO6Z5veKd9zwmiZ3srj/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.37.png" width="584" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-vnxfImD3dBI1RnRyBWCjQkPgGQ1xHtgFzgl0rxw-r3T2X1La36BlnwfMQmp2apq0Jy-dgLalO1IotluoJbdqau2N1fmPBY7cyZwvfRHqXDS1GhxS8u5dGV8yzGj0oSD1WMfyEysbo3s8/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.25.13.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-vnxfImD3dBI1RnRyBWCjQkPgGQ1xHtgFzgl0rxw-r3T2X1La36BlnwfMQmp2apq0Jy-dgLalO1IotluoJbdqau2N1fmPBY7cyZwvfRHqXDS1GhxS8u5dGV8yzGj0oSD1WMfyEysbo3s8/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.25.13.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoWjlc2M_rXdDxr1bjkg-RfIPm1os9lughzNGxS5W6s-ohJP-SaWvbbZQHcffHG6FVnb-w1SOTGkSZxxumZwZ0SeDpH-2wUZqAcbREttoHdP7BzXU0znWkb_MTLuLct3SSkZwZwRjr4El1/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="590" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoWjlc2M_rXdDxr1bjkg-RfIPm1os9lughzNGxS5W6s-ohJP-SaWvbbZQHcffHG6FVnb-w1SOTGkSZxxumZwZ0SeDpH-2wUZqAcbREttoHdP7BzXU0znWkb_MTLuLct3SSkZwZwRjr4El1/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.48.png" width="600" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDPiGMIaqLNII2rRGXa8QMzP_W9h64RcpB5r2Nkp0rHRAb05jXnudn8-KzNb-8qV4Tt0Z22SWJjijt3CyoWZ26p4zWA1tc_o8z-JmyL-dq5lt_yexFRs8BtEg5izziAIgWDFmdsGfNJ8p/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="468" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDPiGMIaqLNII2rRGXa8QMzP_W9h64RcpB5r2Nkp0rHRAb05jXnudn8-KzNb-8qV4Tt0Z22SWJjijt3CyoWZ26p4zWA1tc_o8z-JmyL-dq5lt_yexFRs8BtEg5izziAIgWDFmdsGfNJ8p/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.48.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiN_3ic1xj3tzfoNySOYj5q33mnLLLJbyK-IYpwAcxIpREpqvAOZebUL5K81j5i4JWGT4zTrV3QvrIweWxTUBq7LpL_OvrcmB5-AVF2ukPQxjw83quW-6JbBCHGn6fFUfXqThvqzHTPbMI/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.21.03.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="833" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiN_3ic1xj3tzfoNySOYj5q33mnLLLJbyK-IYpwAcxIpREpqvAOZebUL5K81j5i4JWGT4zTrV3QvrIweWxTUBq7LpL_OvrcmB5-AVF2ukPQxjw83quW-6JbBCHGn6fFUfXqThvqzHTPbMI/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.21.03.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Ski-Villa!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEYe-nGeoPl0N1Xb1bPO-n31sMW6ib6rMAqYrRdFKeWTxCL43OpJ6fTsL1oLZOn91fHiOJyvqqbA9ESkwUeRZQV4WWEbD2kovK0KG7sPl5YKxu9BeAKAKT0uNmajDjQ53WfPksITuwPAB/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.24.43.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="472" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEYe-nGeoPl0N1Xb1bPO-n31sMW6ib6rMAqYrRdFKeWTxCL43OpJ6fTsL1oLZOn91fHiOJyvqqbA9ESkwUeRZQV4WWEbD2kovK0KG7sPl5YKxu9BeAKAKT0uNmajDjQ53WfPksITuwPAB/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.24.43.png" width="482" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTSrbAPackxadKCZifhIy_4V0acKsRkLggNaI0YHHXuX3_YJXCv6qTi1byYPDSPQgfaxE4Yo6aE2s3I_hN3HubctGHNBiau9GNR0FUo5P8X2PIDhq8kp3a0X721EZcA1gt5l0sJab5lTm/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.03.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="474" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTSrbAPackxadKCZifhIy_4V0acKsRkLggNaI0YHHXuX3_YJXCv6qTi1byYPDSPQgfaxE4Yo6aE2s3I_hN3HubctGHNBiau9GNR0FUo5P8X2PIDhq8kp3a0X721EZcA1gt5l0sJab5lTm/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.03.png" width="484" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gTusBHJzVEjeDPkiDoTQIIiG_0M4SZh619n7uin1B9CZXp8qOXcpcclaRbn1_CL6bHMF0yU5tk3usXg8qtgkK26COieEqu176XVUfRyx7ais6Zbq4Un5MWXpRHba_x5kxte6mlNhOffR/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.50.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gTusBHJzVEjeDPkiDoTQIIiG_0M4SZh619n7uin1B9CZXp8qOXcpcclaRbn1_CL6bHMF0yU5tk3usXg8qtgkK26COieEqu176XVUfRyx7ais6Zbq4Un5MWXpRHba_x5kxte6mlNhOffR/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.50.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CGXpJqgK2YYLlWEO-7cd_b7BmsUi6q48JhsEWPv91Jimr0fQIX5NWwmKPIXO0PmrzJcf2gBwDoBscuMz5edKkE3YL8RWnv1ixvN1nIaYgb2Xw5FSpzIys2fvtMGQFKiAuPOqHYdwSsRp/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="468" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CGXpJqgK2YYLlWEO-7cd_b7BmsUi6q48JhsEWPv91Jimr0fQIX5NWwmKPIXO0PmrzJcf2gBwDoBscuMz5edKkE3YL8RWnv1ixvN1nIaYgb2Xw5FSpzIys2fvtMGQFKiAuPOqHYdwSsRp/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.58.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0M4TwHF7f2VHbQZZ9HaqUROP41k3YoISBjGxb_q0-714PXStH6X5p-ZnbzGjw_6YQcnD_R0GCy77I1wIRu6TewNXtVGgvAJDFTfAQBDmE-frlcN4sBRUoNZMKhdXXzOxk1p_KTkzWi5Ym/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.33.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="419" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0M4TwHF7f2VHbQZZ9HaqUROP41k3YoISBjGxb_q0-714PXStH6X5p-ZnbzGjw_6YQcnD_R0GCy77I1wIRu6TewNXtVGgvAJDFTfAQBDmE-frlcN4sBRUoNZMKhdXXzOxk1p_KTkzWi5Ym/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.33.png" width="428" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwix9p9Te7523ajKTaFkUqsIXS8EYjYZu8FmETtyc8Bj_AIAoVtxd-czwNiI-Owq4nEko5ZWQRZTakubwAK1G1l8CeVv4l2ZCxd2vJQYme47TY1tQO-BpXCKFYsWPc5-F8wyRhyphenhyphenS_UMmI/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="354" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwix9p9Te7523ajKTaFkUqsIXS8EYjYZu8FmETtyc8Bj_AIAoVtxd-czwNiI-Owq4nEko5ZWQRZTakubwAK1G1l8CeVv4l2ZCxd2vJQYme47TY1tQO-BpXCKFYsWPc5-F8wyRhyphenhyphenS_UMmI/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.26.14.png" width="360" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUEfQrLKx2SPs7Jul36y8ybY2tWvHBep-6dg_0vD69CECx6Ic3CHA6mW7NNQRzLHcHs-qDcHgvsenLDaJlbqhqLsFwu52ot3smaVF1uPXG1-2JRp7y6IIIHp3EdB7zy0pPlw6R9RIpaklU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.27.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="469" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUEfQrLKx2SPs7Jul36y8ybY2tWvHBep-6dg_0vD69CECx6Ic3CHA6mW7NNQRzLHcHs-qDcHgvsenLDaJlbqhqLsFwu52ot3smaVF1uPXG1-2JRp7y6IIIHp3EdB7zy0pPlw6R9RIpaklU/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.27.16.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8oCu5A6zmgQOJV7gZih2RUNChdO4ZHQZAbVeZFF4kblHpFEhxR66tyelTb7iPhgp44NbuaVDCT6hOEyX-heSMZuZKvacC5dKT6NE-BGClUtQ-JYZYjeWAw9o9BXadJ9AaHXwkLfWkFP7a/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="468" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8oCu5A6zmgQOJV7gZih2RUNChdO4ZHQZAbVeZFF4kblHpFEhxR66tyelTb7iPhgp44NbuaVDCT6hOEyX-heSMZuZKvacC5dKT6NE-BGClUtQ-JYZYjeWAw9o9BXadJ9AaHXwkLfWkFP7a/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.23.39.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzCXpk2dv2r0hOgdENBVx95QdSA8T73DmOMVtL7CWScV2mWUjNWT1uk56lyvy1yg2QFvmO2TwKOanFrhyPjbFD0DV18bZpGr15tlpzZGylkLpK7wSJgMp2eLqVUfj5H3EkXP-IkQ-g7-B/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.19.29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="470" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzCXpk2dv2r0hOgdENBVx95QdSA8T73DmOMVtL7CWScV2mWUjNWT1uk56lyvy1yg2QFvmO2TwKOanFrhyPjbFD0DV18bZpGr15tlpzZGylkLpK7wSJgMp2eLqVUfj5H3EkXP-IkQ-g7-B/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.19.29.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUoU3JdG-rCbNOxb0NGpQkbAumrc40rZxfmyGLreP-TGlL8d4R4PHY-1yCgViBjPmqOa2tQCcvhq7Z86nV7_KqlaqxjhPItxJuIFnCgrqhOnb560mCw6UGkT8B7lWkjMOKLbn-fJV8-1vi/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.19.52.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="535" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUoU3JdG-rCbNOxb0NGpQkbAumrc40rZxfmyGLreP-TGlL8d4R4PHY-1yCgViBjPmqOa2tQCcvhq7Z86nV7_KqlaqxjhPItxJuIFnCgrqhOnb560mCw6UGkT8B7lWkjMOKLbn-fJV8-1vi/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.19.52.png" width="544" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiznIZijICoOs7rx9_NPng3gfIXvkHEtHpE5AuapmeGNTm1XLQ9nPyWicwmx5TfzYbMFfA8doYGqq5Il8i8AIxDz4s4UTXi9jkeCzIkszB4Z5sOxBbnKaQg00NetE246wet-nvOHc4SWRWP/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.27.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="471" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiznIZijICoOs7rx9_NPng3gfIXvkHEtHpE5AuapmeGNTm1XLQ9nPyWicwmx5TfzYbMFfA8doYGqq5Il8i8AIxDz4s4UTXi9jkeCzIkszB4Z5sOxBbnKaQg00NetE246wet-nvOHc4SWRWP/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.27.35.png" width="474" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMYqqEBG4yHTzeD77WyrmndiC3JzIxuqSYB2jZvSmhbk8BppjrKkOFmqSKoC0uGEqr4AvNHg5LiYOe24rMzjzGjeyYs2Kvfd-odSuXAqbscENo6RMtx7bD67g8tCHwb0LmQ9TOwcB1D1Q/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.27.53.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="469" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMYqqEBG4yHTzeD77WyrmndiC3JzIxuqSYB2jZvSmhbk8BppjrKkOFmqSKoC0uGEqr4AvNHg5LiYOe24rMzjzGjeyYs2Kvfd-odSuXAqbscENo6RMtx7bD67g8tCHwb0LmQ9TOwcB1D1Q/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.27.53.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEXTXo_QFcV4ZFq9S87t0FmA7t7gpHIV9T4FXG2NA4s0TnxSh_ZNpa9ud80J3r6LjoUbFreNI4RMhLJ4I2xdAj8oiDMB5C8hNOQw5wSFYxlUqdd-gbhqd2K40Kv-6Y78KUdXLJtogViaxz/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.28.11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="465" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEXTXo_QFcV4ZFq9S87t0FmA7t7gpHIV9T4FXG2NA4s0TnxSh_ZNpa9ud80J3r6LjoUbFreNI4RMhLJ4I2xdAj8oiDMB5C8hNOQw5wSFYxlUqdd-gbhqd2K40Kv-6Y78KUdXLJtogViaxz/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.28.11.png" width="474" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBRj9FCWXvrMXNzNaJ6X76XSo_meDSCUwWT7cUY4Bu_U2lQZzIz4XZM2kagYGT4QfEkKijiyAz25lC4i_ZU-8dE0XC1NJHs_VVOOaX97rCfcP_t8WtT79U4Gv9l4HmR6xLfUggZ4GIKk_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="472" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBRj9FCWXvrMXNzNaJ6X76XSo_meDSCUwWT7cUY4Bu_U2lQZzIz4XZM2kagYGT4QfEkKijiyAz25lC4i_ZU-8dE0XC1NJHs_VVOOaX97rCfcP_t8WtT79U4Gv9l4HmR6xLfUggZ4GIKk_/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.20.02.png" width="500" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiztcC9BwrsjVEWxTldgTH12p1r5n09jcWKurcU9LJVRY2sfYafmgRL275CPpx8BQT-FHpwTcQ7667zo4KChoQHv69ARapcOPSvl68Y00Hg88uN7G0jB0Zl0nIwGz_zLwIH-ZWAi1jn-t2O/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.28.33.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="465" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiztcC9BwrsjVEWxTldgTH12p1r5n09jcWKurcU9LJVRY2sfYafmgRL275CPpx8BQT-FHpwTcQ7667zo4KChoQHv69ARapcOPSvl68Y00Hg88uN7G0jB0Zl0nIwGz_zLwIH-ZWAi1jn-t2O/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.28.33.png" width="472" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAmJdGZHWLiyVap0f-cK2lHwrFEbNho4OpDKmwo3YG12ln_5dOpUwp1ay_h2AmwXrDag5kSR1QB2i3-J2gpM45uCEGehmRCrrVFERuaJV6krI23CzyojxTLr8_BsONZR4CtLzhUe3E5AVt/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.28.57.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="471" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAmJdGZHWLiyVap0f-cK2lHwrFEbNho4OpDKmwo3YG12ln_5dOpUwp1ay_h2AmwXrDag5kSR1QB2i3-J2gpM45uCEGehmRCrrVFERuaJV6krI23CzyojxTLr8_BsONZR4CtLzhUe3E5AVt/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.28.57.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOki2grb42nLDD1TtaR1QtGSDJNqCuavyOfiZClbrNxAG-lpRmobhMJr8bixMpamVAycLDk-DQ_KejL9elmLAgdzyVwa1qDtEGtgGVwCr045l3oLvkHHIWkV4kIR89ARkL15x_iqbRIePC/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.56.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="473" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOki2grb42nLDD1TtaR1QtGSDJNqCuavyOfiZClbrNxAG-lpRmobhMJr8bixMpamVAycLDk-DQ_KejL9elmLAgdzyVwa1qDtEGtgGVwCr045l3oLvkHHIWkV4kIR89ARkL15x_iqbRIePC/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2020-02-25+kl.+16.56.35.png" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b>Traverse the Balkans 2021</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Flight PRISTINA - BREZOVICA</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 2 : BREZOVICA – PREVALLA</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 3 : PREVAL – LUBINJE</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 4 : LUBINJE – VERTOP</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 5 : VERTOP – BROD/RESTELICE</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 6 : BROD/RESTELICE – RADOMIRE/TEJZE</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<b></b><br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 7 : RADOMIRE/TEJZE – Mt KORAB</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Price per person 1780€</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<b></b>Includes </div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
Ackommodation with 1/2 pension</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
IFMGA Guide</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
Local transports</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
And a good amount of skiing!</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
*Prel. program fot the week that might be changed due to conditions and weather </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Day 8 : Mont KORAB – PRISTINA, flight home</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-63282144422960711032019-12-26T12:43:00.000+01:002019-12-26T17:55:23.130+01:00Aravicimes - Paré de Joux<h4>
Aravicimes is a modern mixed route in the Aravis massif. Normally, with good snow and ice conditions its considered fairly easy, up to M4. But with lack of snow, early in the season its a quite demanding hard to protect route with a lot of climbing.<br />Mostly the harder sections are quite short, but long enough to keep you focused.<br />Over all an interesting route with a lot of fun!</h4>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYOemhKDaWHjUL5faTw5i05SFY_mpyhz2-mhTHG05K-zFOWfaVFQNLZIkUC-T72jj-R84YqpxQdQrhoxGK0zT3ip-dtzIuKtub1R9s051tbjtNmAs66Plnp9RHZKDzsAyAEsTLrBeE8Mfk/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.35.17.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYOemhKDaWHjUL5faTw5i05SFY_mpyhz2-mhTHG05K-zFOWfaVFQNLZIkUC-T72jj-R84YqpxQdQrhoxGK0zT3ip-dtzIuKtub1R9s051tbjtNmAs66Plnp9RHZKDzsAyAEsTLrBeE8Mfk/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.35.17.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paré de Joux</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With a long period of very mild temperatures and strong föhn winds, gale winds in the high mountains and zero visibility, made it really hard to find any accessible climbing.<br />
But my personal mountain detective and wife put in a great job as usually and came up with a few interesting alternatives, one of them "les Aravicimes"<br />
A quick look on the map a and avalanche risk convinced me to have a go.<br />
It might be a blind shoot but when reading the topo I could only think that with the maximum grade of M4;<br />
-how hard can it be?<br />
So we stuffed a few ice screws, tured out to be unnecessary, a small set of wires and some cams and a number of QD,s with the ropes and took an early start from Fayet to La Clusas and les Confins.<br />
The last days of mild weather had made the snow pack more like béton but it only made the 1 1/2h approach easier.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrGS0RYT5iAto1xdfv83QuJQDC2mXIXWlhiw-MA9uBov2j8p4hMLL28tUCS6UwcwndTypDq0Zdj63caDx4y6mmpJyswR4LeEhCkYR41FQpmvVwjYYo5TXcsHMHzLdbc_Hjz2473VDb_B0n/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.33.28.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="526" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrGS0RYT5iAto1xdfv83QuJQDC2mXIXWlhiw-MA9uBov2j8p4hMLL28tUCS6UwcwndTypDq0Zdj63caDx4y6mmpJyswR4LeEhCkYR41FQpmvVwjYYo5TXcsHMHzLdbc_Hjz2473VDb_B0n/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.33.28.png" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnus on the approach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Well at the bottom of the route we found some old footsteps going up and coming down, so we started to hope that maybe its in better conditions that it looks!<br />
The first two pitches turned out not to be described in the french topo. Probably just because there´s wasn't enough snow to have filled up to where the route normally begins!?<br />
P 1 40m of snow couloir up to a very interesting belay point.<br />
P 2 50m, first on thin ice and the snow. Belay on top of a section of rock, bolts<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAXDZz7INAmArdgJ_K3DRhxyyw-5my6eWUDfFyOiefBrmNoSRM6-2L17OdItbNchr-l7dFGVB0aRVJET9fbJBXLfyHOJoDzLTj0e0TpMi7j9pVp10ZWNcJS1VhbFDXV56vojqOJewPxqlK/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.33.47.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAXDZz7INAmArdgJ_K3DRhxyyw-5my6eWUDfFyOiefBrmNoSRM6-2L17OdItbNchr-l7dFGVB0aRVJET9fbJBXLfyHOJoDzLTj0e0TpMi7j9pVp10ZWNcJS1VhbFDXV56vojqOJewPxqlK/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.33.47.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
From here it started to look a bit questionable and suddenly the old footprints was gone as well...<br />
A short vertical section which was dryer than the driest martini. But on the left I could find a crack system in which I could put a few pieces of protection to start with at least. In the end i tied off a frozen-in stone and tried to think of my self as very light.<br />
A short traverse out right to some frozen herbs and finally I could swing my axes into solid ice, victory part 1<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIPcztuugdTqpOuYTLtIMTmQawf2nKIyZSQEsBS7NtaQHtQZft7rrzA44a1F99CxM91Sfq9_p2zSldJB1DvdrNP3HThXnh-MsmQdr01zn_jqMj3P5Ib5QrvRaMpKeEbPbcOyPa0YRsaGY/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="693" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIPcztuugdTqpOuYTLtIMTmQawf2nKIyZSQEsBS7NtaQHtQZft7rrzA44a1F99CxM91Sfq9_p2zSldJB1DvdrNP3HThXnh-MsmQdr01zn_jqMj3P5Ib5QrvRaMpKeEbPbcOyPa0YRsaGY/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.11.png" width="636" /></a></div>
<br />
Next pitch, again very easy, but above was again a vertical wall that looked just really dry.<br />
I soon got my suspicion confirmed, desperately looking for anything to place some protection but the only thing happening was time running away. In the end I just have to give it up, retreating down to the former bealy. End of story!<br />
But maybe, a chance to traverse the section around to the right!?<br />
A last desperat call in which at least i could place a few things here and there on the way, ending at a blank wall with nothing except a few loose blocks. But with desperation and a "go light" thought I finally abled my self to crawl up as far so I could bunch the shafts of the axes deep enough to support me.<br />
And I found a crack that took my last few wires.<br />
We was out climbing, super bad dry conditions, but at least we was off-route, great times.<br />
After a long tense traverse back leftwards, we finally was back on track again and now getting covered in spinn-drift.<br />
Luckily it turned out to be easier climbing from now on and slowly making progress...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUwCYw0ShhYQDVoBYcdTCiXjWKY9tWjVkG-ahyNsEjMOjC7XubmQ3OtKOXLX2Hy2XOTFXSLc7-Dvcgyiav6GSfvLCWCOXemkl2-V_zgTb8mH5D13dU0hjFEadbWTGwQVF7sjJ9i5Vrv8-/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.32.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="528" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUwCYw0ShhYQDVoBYcdTCiXjWKY9tWjVkG-ahyNsEjMOjC7XubmQ3OtKOXLX2Hy2XOTFXSLc7-Dvcgyiav6GSfvLCWCOXemkl2-V_zgTb8mH5D13dU0hjFEadbWTGwQVF7sjJ9i5Vrv8-/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.32.png" width="484" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>Route description</b><br />
(P 1 & 2 if lack of snow)<br />
P 1 40m of snow couloir up to a very interesting belay point.<br />
P 2 50m, first on thin ice and the snow. Belay on top of a section of rock, bolts.<br />
<b>Itinerary </b><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L1 85 ° 40 m Go over a wall at 85 ° more or less well protected (tufts of herbs)</i></span><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">L2 50 ° 30 m Go up a slope at 50 ° for 30 m. to a cave on the left, clearly visible when ascending </i><i>up </i><i style="font-family: inherit;">the Paccaly valley</i><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L3 90 ° 50 m Climb a short 90 ° section (sometimes tricky) to recover on a snow slope. Then cross a short section of 70 °</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L4 60 ° 50 m Go back up a slope to 50 ° then 60 °</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L5 65 ° 40 m belay on the left</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L6 35 m Continue this ascending crossing on the left and cross a short rocky outcrop</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L7 75 ° 50 m Climb first on the left then right above the couloir (short passages of 75 °)</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L8 80 ° 50 m Pass through a cave and exit through an icy chimney (80 °), then go up a snowy slope</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L9 75 ° 50 m Climb a narrow couloir for 20 m (75 °, 1 piton on the right), then go up a snow slope</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L10 M4 55 m Continue on the snow slope for 20 m, then cross a delicate mixed section (M4 fixed pro). Intermediate belay possible after 35 m</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>L11 40 ° 50 m Go back up a slope to 40 ° to reach the summit</i></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnNiVQME4BE2WUsa4iA16Lo81f4fPfN9mnYs8FfQ-MAzLezU-qyHkhTzL22u_c6jyhRm0dlu4WIriimXlx4KO2YVwykcndT4KUoButg68PzVXS94hPy1wYRfhb308L6o-9yYNjyaX6-NVQ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.36.26.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="659" data-original-width="811" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnNiVQME4BE2WUsa4iA16Lo81f4fPfN9mnYs8FfQ-MAzLezU-qyHkhTzL22u_c6jyhRm0dlu4WIriimXlx4KO2YVwykcndT4KUoButg68PzVXS94hPy1wYRfhb308L6o-9yYNjyaX6-NVQ/s320/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.36.26.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<i style="font-family: inherit;">Equipment</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">2x50m ropes</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">1 set of wires</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">Green to Red Alien, small cams.</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">#0,75-2 Camalot</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">2-4 ice screws, if ice!</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>All belays in place</i></span><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;">Descend by </i><i>rappelling</i><i style="font-family: inherit;"> the route</i><br />
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1sFRDB415Z3JMbvp11MkrS5UuE62XsX77NF9o-p1JcNFxMiew3CrXIyF30majzmbSeKXzWWKXEb6E56EgZr4vzAj-v4O3Na_qz3Gr6_GFvxbOypmNpIPAFlKIJwKWVVW1CIF03T4QN4FT/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1sFRDB415Z3JMbvp11MkrS5UuE62XsX77NF9o-p1JcNFxMiew3CrXIyF30majzmbSeKXzWWKXEb6E56EgZr4vzAj-v4O3Na_qz3Gr6_GFvxbOypmNpIPAFlKIJwKWVVW1CIF03T4QN4FT/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.04.png" width="482" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbTTiUSV2lh0Cx6aJd9VGba5ilTm3IMRvYnB6UsPXEOD2bdTFYplbNDRrwI-6S_0fugB_U0ZHzlEDJm8FV7qWap9XngnhRRV2gnUBYrPXI0kAaMOFEKhEzDqGxsQJNnh9Nq72KttGRgMj/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.54.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbTTiUSV2lh0Cx6aJd9VGba5ilTm3IMRvYnB6UsPXEOD2bdTFYplbNDRrwI-6S_0fugB_U0ZHzlEDJm8FV7qWap9XngnhRRV2gnUBYrPXI0kAaMOFEKhEzDqGxsQJNnh9Nq72KttGRgMj/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-26+kl.+11.34.54.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
//</div>
<i style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></i>Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0Les Confins, 74220 La Clusaz, Frankrike45.919529999999988 6.477247000000033920.397495499999987 -34.831346999999965 71.441564499999984 47.785841000000033tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-15585163714152338972019-12-22T12:25:00.001+01:002019-12-22T12:28:21.933+01:00La Chambotte - Aix-les-Bains<h4>
Beautiful suited over the lac du Bourget at almost 650m is the nice climbing sector of la Chambotte.<br />It is a south facing big section of limestone, well bolted and up to three pitches of good climbing covering over all grades. Perfect for beginners who want to improve or try leading multi-pitch climbing.</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt40pfmTbB3YDqifsw3mzinqbvySaiz9ks057WGm5U4UDtIdt_y8HN1jLnVQh-kLpsWo-9W5XnxMOpIbb86eDRcTabSaeWHeqIj49n8CQqNQ1kz6cyrdA7QW6rIGeV_IL1j-aDJdPG_aYF/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.30.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt40pfmTbB3YDqifsw3mzinqbvySaiz9ks057WGm5U4UDtIdt_y8HN1jLnVQh-kLpsWo-9W5XnxMOpIbb86eDRcTabSaeWHeqIj49n8CQqNQ1kz6cyrdA7QW6rIGeV_IL1j-aDJdPG_aYF/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.30.png" width="476" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La belle vue over lac du Borget</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">ACCESS: You can access it from both sides of the mountain:</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">1) From La Biolle: located on the N201 connecting Aix les Bains to Annecy. Take the D991B on the left</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">passing by ST Germain la Chambotte then La Chambotte.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">2) From Chaudieux: located on the D991 connecting Aix les Bains to Culoz (along the lake). Take the right</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">D991B which goes up to La Chambotte.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Park in the car park between the tunnel and the village. There is room for many vehicles if everyone makes the effort to park intelligently.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Pass (on foot!) the tunnel and descend to the hairpin to find the path that runs along the cliff.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><u>Don´t park directly at the hair-pin!</u></i></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjqsppse1BO9u8IZDnmON0-8B25LOp-lU225UyRF0GET02CDLwsteMkgj8WfawXDzhyphenhyphenpr7F928BwiU57RdptT67FczzRo8HQFBZQL5m3HO6jShr1h9oXJ9w-FBa58T3Y3l-xBEBL_nE8Y/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="706" height="634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjqsppse1BO9u8IZDnmON0-8B25LOp-lU225UyRF0GET02CDLwsteMkgj8WfawXDzhyphenhyphenpr7F928BwiU57RdptT67FczzRo8HQFBZQL5m3HO6jShr1h9oXJ9w-FBa58T3Y3l-xBEBL_nE8Y/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.11.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">le Diedre de l´Arbre</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The climbing start directly after leaving the road. And there are many nice routes but I have, so far, three favorits not to be missed.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Sector du Diedre de l´Abre</b></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
le Diedre de l´Arbre (6a obl)</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Tripaille, Farine, Pate, Riz (6a+)</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Both have tre nice pitches</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Sector Toit Triangulaire</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
le Toit Triangulaire (6a+)</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
An other 3-pitch route with interesting fun climbing, not to be missed!</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivnw2Oo0YaHf6oAkyXNyoL1YpKAqZjbwkPZUJF3gaA-us8eFk89OJQ0V04Eu7kkS9oLoG2njYPz-RnUNwWkmKl_jpDAuqzcDES1Td8BtvDznD4QPt2GFU_ab5oqCZl4Ad2zC71MGaDLC8/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.22.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="699" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivnw2Oo0YaHf6oAkyXNyoL1YpKAqZjbwkPZUJF3gaA-us8eFk89OJQ0V04Eu7kkS9oLoG2njYPz-RnUNwWkmKl_jpDAuqzcDES1Td8BtvDznD4QPt2GFU_ab5oqCZl4Ad2zC71MGaDLC8/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.22.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le toit triangulaire</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdflhTJFFXvQW_uDf4PD7qk-jtTK7JxkbEjtc77JEbrY-zEGVHft_zPullPhsXdDbGRWwbe9OjvJPNFsVcO2hnGVl-1aygwgZcWLQPVQgJ3Mjq22CuZuegXsA8sHiINl23QMypI4ZoQguv/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="702" data-original-width="680" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdflhTJFFXvQW_uDf4PD7qk-jtTK7JxkbEjtc77JEbrY-zEGVHft_zPullPhsXdDbGRWwbe9OjvJPNFsVcO2hnGVl-1aygwgZcWLQPVQgJ3Mjq22CuZuegXsA8sHiINl23QMypI4ZoQguv/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.39.png" width="618" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le toit triangulaire</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSdqUU84oCGrKoP2wd6Dqk8l10FzVSEsn08zj99Pd5NE_qR_VXK1CWxGzYHrbtgsE1acpMFgX0cLKjx0zSfo_5rhnb1xAOu1w-cX8eIWU6vhgZrumDQbcOf1BAUuKLNWEVal07xTGz6ot/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSdqUU84oCGrKoP2wd6Dqk8l10FzVSEsn08zj99Pd5NE_qR_VXK1CWxGzYHrbtgsE1acpMFgX0cLKjx0zSfo_5rhnb1xAOu1w-cX8eIWU6vhgZrumDQbcOf1BAUuKLNWEVal07xTGz6ot/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.48.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the body crack of toit triangulaire</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSIiTqez6JQ27_3lDlXHmIASDhhw4KeuCTR5OyUxsONKIoeM_FjP2zXVde9Enyb0TiiVwkgCdx8LoVtZQN7_q9_uBbSb0fHiLxDkd6J63yEsGfkKJOjm6iOfoMVmxfqLIs05v69vLsatNw/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="696" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSIiTqez6JQ27_3lDlXHmIASDhhw4KeuCTR5OyUxsONKIoeM_FjP2zXVde9Enyb0TiiVwkgCdx8LoVtZQN7_q9_uBbSb0fHiLxDkd6J63yEsGfkKJOjm6iOfoMVmxfqLIs05v69vLsatNw/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.47.58.png" width="636" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le toit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinJYeBF4jwuKj0Y0jDmh9xrMKpQocWHZJAQbv8fKO1K2s4K1sNlPIroOf58MoVkBDlVbWw8z1vBgHrY_3BGw9U6B6KimtlgnZs-gSg5eCpW2PdM03l4thSTdZ73f7_dWq-1PMxrZFT75my/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.57.19.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="652" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinJYeBF4jwuKj0Y0jDmh9xrMKpQocWHZJAQbv8fKO1K2s4K1sNlPIroOf58MoVkBDlVbWw8z1vBgHrY_3BGw9U6B6KimtlgnZs-gSg5eCpW2PdM03l4thSTdZ73f7_dWq-1PMxrZFT75my/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.57.19.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMJoCje4YSNh5CPJd0k6oHqtkPgpNTF7XapeqAwMHXrrkA9qOn2O0HZ3cTfkEzbEdzlprLgdVfgtXClxjzIMBtOxYDcpCSJF8OZqy8MX64JtTzojL6_3T_rC6JNxYuexNL1PEUdPwjgHqj/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.51.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="554" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMJoCje4YSNh5CPJd0k6oHqtkPgpNTF7XapeqAwMHXrrkA9qOn2O0HZ3cTfkEzbEdzlprLgdVfgtXClxjzIMBtOxYDcpCSJF8OZqy8MX64JtTzojL6_3T_rC6JNxYuexNL1PEUdPwjgHqj/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.51.10.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the sectors</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhHq4319TYbWW9UpWt2lutGYVTkW0QnsSHj6A4Bqy-crLa2sLxIqJT_524YvDBKqowyh0KdkJ5uWz1joDyfzw47VrSN2TVBCpTFDjI37cuqc2s_6mxn8s6bjYnCb9SxCKxo9XcJ9-X7wZ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.53.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="586" height="548" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhHq4319TYbWW9UpWt2lutGYVTkW0QnsSHj6A4Bqy-crLa2sLxIqJT_524YvDBKqowyh0KdkJ5uWz1joDyfzw47VrSN2TVBCpTFDjI37cuqc2s_6mxn8s6bjYnCb9SxCKxo9XcJ9-X7wZ/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+11.53.20.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipy0zYk-PajREAEfG7kEnjCkwF4AwrS3XRglHKqXbTHEei_hM_UOnTjB9nkmMdvE6-AAofsjEgVlGker4n1TAqY17k2gH6XZqLd1k5yBM15sevsbgFjDPYirzIQzrq9N2YAmL6lyeS7vF_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+12.19.51.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="482" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipy0zYk-PajREAEfG7kEnjCkwF4AwrS3XRglHKqXbTHEei_hM_UOnTjB9nkmMdvE6-AAofsjEgVlGker4n1TAqY17k2gH6XZqLd1k5yBM15sevsbgFjDPYirzIQzrq9N2YAmL6lyeS7vF_/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+12.19.51.png" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toit triangulaire topo (route 6) start to the right up to the ledge and then traverse out left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfWxRBQiqfnVh-NtR2QJbRIQoCLtNgwx37mc8N1CCHTKoo8W1kRIiCYPRJozZDm-cI6NQuONbTNzUQygVJRpQH1pXm6AORnPkV83TxXUbE_PgHmyPq40W_5zt_aNMPw4b13IRbSnY88Ssy/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+12.10.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="465" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfWxRBQiqfnVh-NtR2QJbRIQoCLtNgwx37mc8N1CCHTKoo8W1kRIiCYPRJozZDm-cI6NQuONbTNzUQygVJRpQH1pXm6AORnPkV83TxXUbE_PgHmyPq40W_5zt_aNMPw4b13IRbSnY88Ssy/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-22+kl.+12.10.49.png" width="470" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">It is possible to climb here during the whole year round, but the summer months can probably be very hot!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>Equipment</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
2x50m ropes</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
10-12 QD´s</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0La Chambotte, 73410 Saint-Germain-la-Chambotte, Frankrike45.777026 5.875079000000027920.2549915 -35.433514999999971 71.2990605 47.183673000000027tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-15225607058390180392019-12-07T19:32:00.000+01:002019-12-07T19:32:00.575+01:00Verdon - Lame Fatale<h4>
Verdon, the classic Patrick Edlinger play ground<br />With its rock faces, low alpine surroundings, the deep canyon and scenic nature it´s just a big playground for a number of sports, climbing, hiking, canyoning, biking and not to forget Climbing & BASE jumping!!<br />It´s just one of these places I have to go to at least once a year!</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDBU2CEHVPi-0l7vLPrHpm6GkK2w1dv-iibDUbWj4LUrnQHX7a1AGRO181FLcT2GOLYsHZYMMzuXVFGZuGz1MGKQ2BISq7-pLJD6yDO8TUv8YmVvboQywoqwo2vZpX0Pl7h2opmdX52Tv/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.05.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="670" data-original-width="925" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDBU2CEHVPi-0l7vLPrHpm6GkK2w1dv-iibDUbWj4LUrnQHX7a1AGRO181FLcT2GOLYsHZYMMzuXVFGZuGz1MGKQ2BISq7-pLJD6yDO8TUv8YmVvboQywoqwo2vZpX0Pl7h2opmdX52Tv/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.05.39.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna Backlund on a Verdon steep classic!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The approaches can be kept quite short, a 5 meter hike to the rappel point direct from the road. So in this case the combo with good French cuisine most be under good control if you don't want to gain to much waste pondus.<br />
But, there are some exceptions, as always.<br />
For me I have found some of the best routes starting from "Malines" driving the Rue du Crete anti clockwise from Palud sur Verdon village.<br />
Still not a huge approach, but at least its a little warm up before the climbing starts. And once on the top of the route, your more or less at the car!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIX3rvxnkphyAiBiaoX6jFUGbpixbEWz4AnVF5fnWTGnOQKs1tedvH3WdnSmPH2XkgRf00lZM45JLcuiN9b7Oo2egQo-FbMpVlcw2qS7tJXQLBi0rp5AipAuSBmkCIeiv4rQmFPuPIyxY/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.10.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIX3rvxnkphyAiBiaoX6jFUGbpixbEWz4AnVF5fnWTGnOQKs1tedvH3WdnSmPH2XkgRf00lZM45JLcuiN9b7Oo2egQo-FbMpVlcw2qS7tJXQLBi0rp5AipAuSBmkCIeiv4rQmFPuPIyxY/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.10.40.png" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the habitats of Gorge du Verdon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Ackommodation in and around la Palud sur Verdon is very easy in many ways. During high season with warmer temperatures the camp sites are numerous and cheep.<br />
There is also a few R B´n B´s but the old French version of the same, Gite du France, is really a good and well worth the money option.<br />
In Palud there is one just opposite the church and close to everything in the center of the village.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGRNjCXTTtO9p-tJO-6hDN5msqvmvuP9smAEzR7zK9Zu1iXqenV5UHWqWld-bqmuc1BDDUow5baV4iKbn4ziVzYITp4uPLJ8L0_ifXTunq_R_GDlYiVAn4WV0rCOsUSNgDVrlSXAG62je/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.06.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="527" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGRNjCXTTtO9p-tJO-6hDN5msqvmvuP9smAEzR7zK9Zu1iXqenV5UHWqWld-bqmuc1BDDUow5baV4iKbn4ziVzYITp4uPLJ8L0_ifXTunq_R_GDlYiVAn4WV0rCOsUSNgDVrlSXAG62je/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.06.18.png" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la gorge - the Grand canyon of Verdon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Best season for climbing is, for me personally as a Scandinavian, spring or fall. Many times late november and early december is a good time with still stable weather and good friction. But, most of the time that means climbing on the south facing walls.<br />
It can also mean a few days of rain or even snow!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi111vwr0l9Nj24vLpFWO_cfSTlKbEzA3CEcXBgVTWm50XkiOSBHE6ZvEAD9ZzGjZRBexkOa4HmosUwnrYTFvQyWrhDRFcjGdsfE7uIHw5hgnKjsaQJGr4IqT_lp5nVQG6fLi2GoxGND0Bd/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.05.51.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi111vwr0l9Nj24vLpFWO_cfSTlKbEzA3CEcXBgVTWm50XkiOSBHE6ZvEAD9ZzGjZRBexkOa4HmosUwnrYTFvQyWrhDRFcjGdsfE7uIHw5hgnKjsaQJGr4IqT_lp5nVQG6fLi2GoxGND0Bd/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.05.51.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTg-y16uR8B5t9JcGV7-a1YU5ATkl42n4F-NQX19imVNRuT4d4i0TqKUpdAyxxfySbb-WueZaiiY5jba_md6hC7hrznOuQyQaWthWXVjHIxCuP8TSe5PcpI2e_ADvON_TH1xIAzXRaMdq/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.06.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTg-y16uR8B5t9JcGV7-a1YU5ATkl42n4F-NQX19imVNRuT4d4i0TqKUpdAyxxfySbb-WueZaiiY5jba_md6hC7hrznOuQyQaWthWXVjHIxCuP8TSe5PcpI2e_ADvON_TH1xIAzXRaMdq/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.06.02.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
One of my favorite routes are "Lame Fatale" 6c/7a, an 8 pitch route in the section of "Malines" (described above)<br />
It has a few neighbors with really high quality as well, but the cool thing with Lame Fatale, as the name says, is the upper sections exposed climbing on these limestone type blades.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjclHwk4WM_DklDFNzW_BXjEmAVxJNRQI4KlEqzg4RmNl6wVNX-nb1P8fbS7burE8rTMVy0WfFAeebb0l1iY5FqF76JuvS_D0Sg829HQ3Dn7K7t6ub8qIqO-JhAUxUrnE_OmbkUr0RkGt2w/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.06.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="434" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjclHwk4WM_DklDFNzW_BXjEmAVxJNRQI4KlEqzg4RmNl6wVNX-nb1P8fbS7burE8rTMVy0WfFAeebb0l1iY5FqF76JuvS_D0Sg829HQ3Dn7K7t6ub8qIqO-JhAUxUrnE_OmbkUr0RkGt2w/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.06.40.png" width="396" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topo, route most to the right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Take the ridge road from La Palud sur Verdon towards the chalet Maline (anti-clockwise on the map). Park at the first real car park on your left, carved in the rock, after a fairly sharp left turn.<br />
From the car park, return to the beginning of the left turn. A cairn marks the entrance to the descent path, 45min/1h, with some sections of exposed down climbing to a fix rope at the bottom. Keep an eye open for the red dots!<br />
At the foot of the cliffs, follow the foot of the wall for about 100 meters, pass under overhangs, until you see a large yellow pillar. A well marked path joins at the bottom of the route.<br />
<br />
7 or 8 pitches, deepening on your belays, takes you back up to the road. Enjoy the second and the second last pitch specially!<br />
<br />
Second pitch note; Technical crossing in slab.<br />
Do not stop at the first belay. When it joins "Chan", continue to climb another 10 meters (short steep wall) to reach a belay (2 bolts) on a small terrace. Take care when belaying the second on this one.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUb5fNwtZDHTgWqQOeGTlg5Whf6EMMqkx2r23pyfAsLaf7gh0aaNQnWfzHnCWnnfiGxyhZ1NcM34LMi1iFHGO7Xugw53mztc3xLYn1kXWp6DmLpJJgCt72GK4oxAMwvqmJXIuax2bFAf-U/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.07.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="876" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUb5fNwtZDHTgWqQOeGTlg5Whf6EMMqkx2r23pyfAsLaf7gh0aaNQnWfzHnCWnnfiGxyhZ1NcM34LMi1iFHGO7Xugw53mztc3xLYn1kXWp6DmLpJJgCt72GK4oxAMwvqmJXIuax2bFAf-U/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.07.08.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The travers of pitch 2, Lame Fatale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskT6HvN1E5MVQYbhHsXnff7tGznqBj-kRUmcModH14C3n6SigHBVyNe17_aHm6d8S2iKdU-yLrxff0iNyfzg5n8qVAQbEEsoySiyczXB4FDX6TTNbP9Z1TwaGzUApabV5JiLxIm8nsUNm/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.07.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="481" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhskT6HvN1E5MVQYbhHsXnff7tGznqBj-kRUmcModH14C3n6SigHBVyNe17_aHm6d8S2iKdU-yLrxff0iNyfzg5n8qVAQbEEsoySiyczXB4FDX6TTNbP9Z1TwaGzUApabV5JiLxIm8nsUNm/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.07.39.png" width="440" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exit pitch on Lame Fatale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Equipment</h4>
<div>
50m rope</div>
<div>
15 QD´s</div>
<div>
Extra sling/biners for a few of the belays</div>
<h4>
We got a snowy situation</h4>
<div>
The forecast turned out to be just as right as we thought it would be!</div>
Second last day was supposed to be filled with heavy rain and even snow. And yes, they was right!<br />
But with the steep Verdon walls of the gorge, the climb could go on!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEims1zrn-B3MoWYibggJOfZWIx1Qe1o1CP2k1-qxhxu9v84omsr_vNe9DlHUD4znAGrsw8mVgDEvNNjPojUeVjOPsYJbYeaec2T9aHXKr2kEEoBG4JpvtfD6NJWVN5tf85JdSiTvomqcQ2X/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.09.25.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEims1zrn-B3MoWYibggJOfZWIx1Qe1o1CP2k1-qxhxu9v84omsr_vNe9DlHUD4znAGrsw8mVgDEvNNjPojUeVjOPsYJbYeaec2T9aHXKr2kEEoBG4JpvtfD6NJWVN5tf85JdSiTvomqcQ2X/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.09.25.png" width="484" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTLF0uR_y3kSfbGIvKPblq02MT7QOoj3z0zuERwQybBlMqcWjbDRTgXQsV75g-yaCKMUHxWAzcNGMixFSFnRRyrtl863HAi9smEjqr5Nf7whWSIGsriHVLmk8HcrME8Hrv62WdW4ItgsI/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.09.41.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTLF0uR_y3kSfbGIvKPblq02MT7QOoj3z0zuERwQybBlMqcWjbDRTgXQsV75g-yaCKMUHxWAzcNGMixFSFnRRyrtl863HAi9smEjqr5Nf7whWSIGsriHVLmk8HcrME8Hrv62WdW4ItgsI/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.09.41.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tour du boulangerie </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAKGfi8YbBv1WYXBssh29RYuWLAlXVzQj3FXbsSCa2se-tGrUciD4to-9DCd7obLLysz6BiVCOF2b918m5GuvWtpZHWvX0nfGQLHonJPFmgxCYhcV0nGUmRrZ3cV1D9dSSwkp5KLOvs5TY/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.09.54.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="561" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAKGfi8YbBv1WYXBssh29RYuWLAlXVzQj3FXbsSCa2se-tGrUciD4to-9DCd7obLLysz6BiVCOF2b918m5GuvWtpZHWvX0nfGQLHonJPFmgxCYhcV0nGUmRrZ3cV1D9dSSwkp5KLOvs5TY/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.09.54.png" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la vue d´Early bird</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvM_VjkRODQYPnbHKTvM8T0gdOjwEip2a3Wa6Wx4hyQGa_GzBgTGyZRakA-I8Cxff1fOonyKo6-qFUc5gvgE4heD3kT8z9Ly2b6GCalTFhRnfr1FaEXaaYFpfTQUufsdQLFRW2TvlsyeNh/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.10.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvM_VjkRODQYPnbHKTvM8T0gdOjwEip2a3Wa6Wx4hyQGa_GzBgTGyZRakA-I8Cxff1fOonyKo6-qFUc5gvgE4heD3kT8z9Ly2b6GCalTFhRnfr1FaEXaaYFpfTQUufsdQLFRW2TvlsyeNh/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.10.06.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIjAzxNxmmOoO-O9QNr5azKEOBckNVglOaI3eJfb_CjU7Nus9mK0DkFxJqO_ATkdIENmIjOac_sl48x7D0exhHfR-5u-1MSLEoP4FHBt7W9qZ73lfHQt28s36pxtrlXd0X4q_KOKgSFvUJ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.08.42.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIjAzxNxmmOoO-O9QNr5azKEOBckNVglOaI3eJfb_CjU7Nus9mK0DkFxJqO_ATkdIENmIjOac_sl48x7D0exhHfR-5u-1MSLEoP4FHBt7W9qZ73lfHQt28s36pxtrlXd0X4q_KOKgSFvUJ/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.08.42.png" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traversing the Gorge a la Slackline!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqI_c-MmB91G8h1636fA3wbypsmRBv3jVhk1ap-K4ePABShjBgscKXbFLQp8cD4YwQKC_G5wgmuYuQuvVI8SoN942K89KcIYvTbu3gAaxbW4CsUqUZeTtFZYyWCzLRZd0WFjHx3S1KsGp/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.10.27.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="903" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqI_c-MmB91G8h1636fA3wbypsmRBv3jVhk1ap-K4ePABShjBgscKXbFLQp8cD4YwQKC_G5wgmuYuQuvVI8SoN942K89KcIYvTbu3gAaxbW4CsUqUZeTtFZYyWCzLRZd0WFjHx3S1KsGp/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-12-07+kl.+18.10.27.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
// Everydayadventure</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-24021088925502411942019-10-24T20:40:00.000+02:002019-10-24T20:40:16.713+02:00French Direct - Alpamayo<h3>
</h3>
<h2>
Alpamayo - Cordillera Blanca</h2>
Once voted as the most beautiful mountain in the world by Alpinismus magazine in 1966.<br />Alpamayo is in the Huascarán National Park in the province of Huaylas, Peru and it rises to an elevation of 19,511 feet.<br />The closest bigger town is Huaraz, a very nice Peruvian town some 10hours from the capital of Lima<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDkkQbht1p7JZZ8dycNDB5eMcsZ4R-R-4CUXXoOLRt3bAMfvoargnOKJVOfKseJmBIrmOPYsMY9H27sjMXjVOrpeA-qZJj1qCRhKzSyXPXuVEkEjuu0ms3ejmV_F0qv0AgHO-lDLGiaGSp/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-23+kl.+17.00.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="471" data-original-width="813" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDkkQbht1p7JZZ8dycNDB5eMcsZ4R-R-4CUXXoOLRt3bAMfvoargnOKJVOfKseJmBIrmOPYsMY9H27sjMXjVOrpeA-qZJj1qCRhKzSyXPXuVEkEjuu0ms3ejmV_F0qv0AgHO-lDLGiaGSp/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-23+kl.+17.00.10.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
This has been one of the mountains to climb one day on my "must have to do list". I bought the topo over this area long time ago when I picked up my interest for mixed- and expedition climbing.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
And after my previous trip to Argentina and Patagonien the Cordillera Blancas of Peru was the next on the list in this part of the world. </div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
So when I got the question of going there to guide it, well the answer was easy to make!</div>
<h4>
The journey</h4>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
The flight over to Southamerica from Europe is not to bad, if you can find the direct flight from Spain. If you end up hip hopping between all the numbers of airports between Peru and Geneva, well then its an other more demanding and boring story!</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Actually the best way to do this flight is to buy a one way ticket to Lima and then buy the retour direct in Peru when time is up to go back home. Its 1/2 price on the flight in Lima instead of buying an expensive ticket aller retour from Europe.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUjXsu4T3rxDX99NngMZTAc3KLg-bCPmmqeo05JZQ-I5x7cnsqYDVfnHQJCGL7B3cNmhQ8enqlQyajnzxmGSJlD_EqHL0de_U-f-uGTxLuo6FOnqkRDSm9KOfy8MRuwlj_uYu27fodUlw/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.20.57.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="516" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUjXsu4T3rxDX99NngMZTAc3KLg-bCPmmqeo05JZQ-I5x7cnsqYDVfnHQJCGL7B3cNmhQ8enqlQyajnzxmGSJlD_EqHL0de_U-f-uGTxLuo6FOnqkRDSm9KOfy8MRuwlj_uYu27fodUlw/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.20.57.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monsieur Eduardo at Lima Taxi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTpBxIgd-D-7FQsnnnzdpO0xFpFz7aevj4RcStroO61-gpxQlaDPZeD0xXlx4Ly50dpGZKtjH0AB5OhicUDSOsjNDA_mKOUH5KoNmwrGNcVXfg47EoZzzt_CcnkHiiQszuFthF_p4386I/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.21.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="679" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTpBxIgd-D-7FQsnnnzdpO0xFpFz7aevj4RcStroO61-gpxQlaDPZeD0xXlx4Ly50dpGZKtjH0AB5OhicUDSOsjNDA_mKOUH5KoNmwrGNcVXfg47EoZzzt_CcnkHiiQszuFthF_p4386I/s320/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.21.08.png" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnus getting acklimatisized </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Once at place we had an arrangement with a local Lima man who supported us to the busstation in Lima for a direct trip up to Huaraz. An eight hour trip on good roads with a great comfy bus. We took the night bus which meant that we didn’t miss any time really and the bed was included with the ”Bus & Bed” service.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
At Huaraz we had found a great local place to stay at a private Gite, Zarela Zamora López, some 10min walk from the city center, away from the traffic and noise.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Ackommodation is good, breakfast is ok, but its possible to order extra ”supply” with great plates of fresh fruits and müslie. This we quickly finished and headed out for an afternoon acclimatization tour. </div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Around Huaraz there is a number of high passes and beautiful places to hike and scramble up to, all around 4500 and up to +5000meters.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
We made a couple of easier treks and scramble tours around the town, taking day trips from Casa Zarela. And enjoying the great number of restaurants in town in the evenings.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYFrNwuo2br3G61-BR_XW0Cs1VZiTn7JFm2L_xpxhyphenhyphenkCzRT90pTJ2FEaYJlLMqhyphenhyphen0TRCnDSYVCQingTLNjIQVc1oREhqlehgUFu-ZXja2FIDBQ8r00JxVBNfl-DROmK8kvb7dL4jRkhnS/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.21.25.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="919" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYFrNwuo2br3G61-BR_XW0Cs1VZiTn7JFm2L_xpxhyphenhyphenkCzRT90pTJ2FEaYJlLMqhyphenhyphen0TRCnDSYVCQingTLNjIQVc1oREhqlehgUFu-ZXja2FIDBQ8r00JxVBNfl-DROmK8kvb7dL4jRkhnS/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.21.25.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The great views seen from Huaraz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
After a few days we headed for a 3 day trip to Pashpa and Ishinca.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
This valley is surrounded by mountains with the highest one, Palcaraju 6274mts, clearly rising high above the Ishinca refuge.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
As the first day of climbing we headed for the lower part and the south peak of Palcaraju Ouest, 6110mts</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
via the South West ridge.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Second day we therefore took an easier day climbing the Nevds Urus 5495mts, before heading back to Huaraz and a great meal at Creperie Patrick.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
After a est day climbing some doubtful rock at los Olivos. But, for a couple of hours play its an ok, but not more, place to hang out. But, be prepared for a very warm session. There is also a lady with a small dog walking around claiming money for climbing there.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiI9wBk2L9dZfIqomh_XrmkTxHynCxqMoRVuvA7ft8Uu1Nmvooj3UZu9clNboGlILDbo9gIAPIcTWIe1dtyuVEbQbhutUxV_xpIwjZn0X36UvgFc-fRU3Cq0PGzuEv-KEh9Fmobuc87L4t/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.21.44.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="648" data-original-width="516" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiI9wBk2L9dZfIqomh_XrmkTxHynCxqMoRVuvA7ft8Uu1Nmvooj3UZu9clNboGlILDbo9gIAPIcTWIe1dtyuVEbQbhutUxV_xpIwjZn0X36UvgFc-fRU3Cq0PGzuEv-KEh9Fmobuc87L4t/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.21.44.png" width="508" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Palcaraju 6274mts</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKDWHm1CihwnvHDx_5EHqdaoxzlp8t5xDe11SKSe9uuKK1-IaxRNxxI-5umlY6vsN-omK2P3DGiWaldFhS5PFvJ7H0wmZftU9QVmdLfcWTPiQI-wfSPKhJm86jWIChwMIbEa-cEaLpiwG/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="525" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQKDWHm1CihwnvHDx_5EHqdaoxzlp8t5xDe11SKSe9uuKK1-IaxRNxxI-5umlY6vsN-omK2P3DGiWaldFhS5PFvJ7H0wmZftU9QVmdLfcWTPiQI-wfSPKhJm86jWIChwMIbEa-cEaLpiwG/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.16.png" width="376" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refugio Ishinca</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvr_onm8yBLwX-2c6NeNQ9F2kNwcA80iMOr9oEB8XuIDel-Qs7IYdVXLk4QRaA-9wClor4n1pQFFSpDcy3CejSm3c7w3KgORj1_LjxJOrIE0LxzJP7qtCLmILilweegZjToO9Kkn1XU26/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.43.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvr_onm8yBLwX-2c6NeNQ9F2kNwcA80iMOr9oEB8XuIDel-Qs7IYdVXLk4QRaA-9wClor4n1pQFFSpDcy3CejSm3c7w3KgORj1_LjxJOrIE0LxzJP7qtCLmILilweegZjToO9Kkn1XU26/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.43.png" width="492" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBfZ__6pjfLFnxeElnsyZ0ttdxV0AYTMKLx6lTqbv0v2YtEybJoYODqyBufQERl9StsjudEU7o_ccTpuNrOmTi4GT15SRxPU_wmUwKkT8gpKcSrkE1Ja-l2qp6gu55mkmpcz_BiBygT_q/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.53.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="516" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBfZ__6pjfLFnxeElnsyZ0ttdxV0AYTMKLx6lTqbv0v2YtEybJoYODqyBufQERl9StsjudEU7o_ccTpuNrOmTi4GT15SRxPU_wmUwKkT8gpKcSrkE1Ja-l2qp6gu55mkmpcz_BiBygT_q/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.53.png" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mixed climbing up the <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Palcaraju South West ridge</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMRQu3YD3LckVHbcepAyHw5S9-ftpK7FNZVlDosMjYjxXFODq8xWXMLNHu2MkVbSyDzFf3YpOFgyhwkXAPB7ppxKan9uB41D2SuejOhypyVzmfT-ea7y3pCyZQhbSL2eo6e9UUEOzmeGQ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.30.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="516" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMRQu3YD3LckVHbcepAyHw5S9-ftpK7FNZVlDosMjYjxXFODq8xWXMLNHu2MkVbSyDzFf3YpOFgyhwkXAPB7ppxKan9uB41D2SuejOhypyVzmfT-ea7y3pCyZQhbSL2eo6e9UUEOzmeGQ/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.22.30.png" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnus just below the summit of <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;">Nevds Urus, 5495mts</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
French Direct</h4>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0miikFwgZ7o1UtZahHgXpRUiPE3MN68SskvaWF3jM7IIyQf8UXol3P4BLWF8HIAFSn7GoQFfq2fOtRGHquQh8CLJhd9wamyqHu1CZgoLGGEiDjRz2VM35WGRDFPMHVuYCjO70WFJSmly/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.23.30.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="516" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0miikFwgZ7o1UtZahHgXpRUiPE3MN68SskvaWF3jM7IIyQf8UXol3P4BLWF8HIAFSn7GoQFfq2fOtRGHquQh8CLJhd9wamyqHu1CZgoLGGEiDjRz2VM35WGRDFPMHVuYCjO70WFJSmly/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.23.30.png" width="302" /></a>Finally we was ready to head for the main goal, Alpamayo was waiting with a nice sunny spell of good weather.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Conditions suposed to be good a and all things set for an interesting week to come.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
The drive up to Cashapampa passed better then suspected on good roads and the hike up to BC is a nice trip by it self. We did it over a 2 day hike which made it most pleasant and enjoyable. Perfect time to listen on a bunch of down loaded pods in-between inhaling the nice views.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
We also found out that we had gotten us the best cook in whole Peru, who continuously served us with great food. Almost so we didn’t want to leave BC!</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
When making the last plans we decided to make it as light and quick as possible to try to climb Alpamayo via the French Direct. A route that probably should have been named American Direct, since it was first climbed by two Americans. But with an tragic accident with two french climbers getting killed by a sera fall it was named French direct.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
The French Direct follows a prominent snow and ice flute in the middle of Alpamayo's iconic southwest face via snow and ice runnels that ends abruptly at the airy summit ridge. Sometimes reaching the highpoint is too dangerous of a proposition, and plenty of climbers have called it good after reaching the summit ridge. People has even died falling through the corniced ridge. </div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
This year, 2019, the conditions turned out to be quite good.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
We established our high camp at the line between the glacier and the moraine, usually called Moraine Camp at 4900mts. And then made plans to make an early start to go direct for the summit, without the Glacier Camp.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
A plan which I think with light and right equipment is the best choice.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwUDw0YubiSk1MfxcP7aoE6y2stdD80JccTl_G1mf-oJO2lBmzMEagDZbkE9zORrp4TIPyzKZTWM0MtUJtWGuyRN-fg1hOp6V1IoP843KT7CcxD9bJEU506JxesktYEjR9-dYDipFE4hvk/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.23.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwUDw0YubiSk1MfxcP7aoE6y2stdD80JccTl_G1mf-oJO2lBmzMEagDZbkE9zORrp4TIPyzKZTWM0MtUJtWGuyRN-fg1hOp6V1IoP843KT7CcxD9bJEU506JxesktYEjR9-dYDipFE4hvk/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.23.39.png" width="482" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
So with a 23:00 breakfast call we was ready to leave our home at 01:10</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Moving over the glacier and up to the col was super fast in the frozen conditions to the col at 5400mts at 03:30</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
To our surprise we was still all alone, nobody camping up here and no one a the route, we had the whole mountain for our self!!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGiiygUfgyDEM9__Q81E0poTwY45eo1vUDzGZp_PgaYSLAh1x5SU2VF8EKkfL81opXMe0P7fluyRPytckYkC0YH57dQQ0Hffs0cvw7nroHtJZeGbYIyLogF26wcocEC8_yjN7BvIQarhC2/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.23.52.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="916" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGiiygUfgyDEM9__Q81E0poTwY45eo1vUDzGZp_PgaYSLAh1x5SU2VF8EKkfL81opXMe0P7fluyRPytckYkC0YH57dQQ0Hffs0cvw7nroHtJZeGbYIyLogF26wcocEC8_yjN7BvIQarhC2/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.23.52.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach for the Moraine and High Camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
The upper glacier was soon crossed with some painful tracking up the last bit to the start of the climb in deep fresh snow.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
The bergschrund was easily passed with just a short vertical section and then the next part of hammering up the snow and ice formations could begin!</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
And since we didn’t have any other people around this passed easy as well and soon just after sunrise we stood at the summit col, just some 30meters away from the summit. Which turned out to be a most airy massage of very interesting climbing on refrozen, slightly overhanging snow.</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Sending two happy lads on top with the most stunning views to been seen in the best ever weather to think of!</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
A dream for filled!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpNOwt0Ao7HsQWSG7q3KXrE9LTA5J69pKGZ9we81AHbzej3F3LPiNy7QfvbkROrV_NowNMEeSUANNBgPPQX-qxTnwAc7SX_WZWHXifCNMNjGe2lSaMqIja34yM2pvVDfSfVd2p7qdE64Yq/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="520" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpNOwt0Ao7HsQWSG7q3KXrE9LTA5J69pKGZ9we81AHbzej3F3LPiNy7QfvbkROrV_NowNMEeSUANNBgPPQX-qxTnwAc7SX_WZWHXifCNMNjGe2lSaMqIja34yM2pvVDfSfVd2p7qdE64Yq/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.16.png" width="510" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moraine Camp views</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b>Alpamayo - French Direct</b></h4>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<b>Equipment</b></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
2x50m rope (topo says 2x60 but for me it worked out fine with 50m)</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
2-10 ice screws (depends on the conditions I guess, but I used only 2)</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
1-2 snow stakes</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<h4>
<b>Altitudes</b></h4>
<br />
<ul>
<li style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Cashapampa 2900 m.</li>
<li style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Llamac 3800 m.</li>
<li style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Camp de base 4300 m.</li>
<li style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Camp moraine 4900 m, petit et pas d´eau.</li>
<li style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Camp col 5400 - 5500 m sur glacier</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-8hcsCaHJvWn7Xw-PkfqMiiUvhDubyW5HOwHXzf4OAXMJ4ce3bJ-J8Fxx6rvN_ibiYBDucItyRB2K2O31FprVEdpb8VTk09k_2rOQUv0rsnU8s35SVmFPmGhoTGUL5fC-DD91OXbP5hV/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.30.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="520" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-8hcsCaHJvWn7Xw-PkfqMiiUvhDubyW5HOwHXzf4OAXMJ4ce3bJ-J8Fxx6rvN_ibiYBDucItyRB2K2O31FprVEdpb8VTk09k_2rOQUv0rsnU8s35SVmFPmGhoTGUL5fC-DD91OXbP5hV/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.30.png" width="516" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsSYgjLGDE55wlDlPF8pjNI10M6RErAzbEu5Lbs07HKabo7HJMV4M3FCxald_BSJyu72atjP8XnAipgV49iylgpkw3tpH9EvorWa8zRf21HSoMzz9UDK8ajw3SzDiVkiiDDv6e0pBlKR9_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.43.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsSYgjLGDE55wlDlPF8pjNI10M6RErAzbEu5Lbs07HKabo7HJMV4M3FCxald_BSJyu72atjP8XnAipgV49iylgpkw3tpH9EvorWa8zRf21HSoMzz9UDK8ajw3SzDiVkiiDDv6e0pBlKR9_/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.43.png" width="504" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5kWevnuctmVI9RudOm40dB0Rmz3zDX7a3NKG8RkesDBJL7qbEMwyOFn3t4Ca-pEhZ7oNzCgQP-oe2f70EDpqX7R8ct75bvWxKj1BJMuxRpxFGR0jG_iZw9RzuYIHSbzoBZLYzTeS5qe9g/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.55.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5kWevnuctmVI9RudOm40dB0Rmz3zDX7a3NKG8RkesDBJL7qbEMwyOFn3t4Ca-pEhZ7oNzCgQP-oe2f70EDpqX7R8ct75bvWxKj1BJMuxRpxFGR0jG_iZw9RzuYIHSbzoBZLYzTeS5qe9g/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.24.55.png" width="510" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKmbYRu7ofLwi3TNXlQMU2_J7OgoSPcZEK84VWa_eZGRbPYlkqyGdcrayZB9t323XGCsGkRXWXMwFO2A6ZOpRQZtvMtdRDWI71VKAnyD8xuNrneoqDjNnXxIE7ibC8i7hhjtt7jLh3yJ7/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKmbYRu7ofLwi3TNXlQMU2_J7OgoSPcZEK84VWa_eZGRbPYlkqyGdcrayZB9t323XGCsGkRXWXMwFO2A6ZOpRQZtvMtdRDWI71VKAnyD8xuNrneoqDjNnXxIE7ibC8i7hhjtt7jLh3yJ7/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.10.png" width="492" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcnQiT1IEL21yfnKo_tKRDPNboGzFwylcwlpioMK3rHIc7PA3duzxXESDu4xETOhczMA3nqjA-CRdlOImp-WJa0DhrG7jeXIOVHDo5-88Q5uQ9aya_kfumTyPCBwlP10gAN6RnI9w7sfuw/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.32.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="521" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcnQiT1IEL21yfnKo_tKRDPNboGzFwylcwlpioMK3rHIc7PA3duzxXESDu4xETOhczMA3nqjA-CRdlOImp-WJa0DhrG7jeXIOVHDo5-88Q5uQ9aya_kfumTyPCBwlP10gAN6RnI9w7sfuw/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.32.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2k4A2OHqusJVFC_Pmf_NSJzyaqOOaXxo2QYUDamzEEGp1q6Yb0bbv8w74bVRvyCgOkqx2mic4PY0FuO8cxi57dJGlDEMxSyOecDGlvyUP_3h0TWmALQzZ8UqtUQtWbX4JtXcrPDTOWGhZ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.42.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2k4A2OHqusJVFC_Pmf_NSJzyaqOOaXxo2QYUDamzEEGp1q6Yb0bbv8w74bVRvyCgOkqx2mic4PY0FuO8cxi57dJGlDEMxSyOecDGlvyUP_3h0TWmALQzZ8UqtUQtWbX4JtXcrPDTOWGhZ/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.42.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuCIMcGStWxdRH-RQxzGUuOvUPZ5yRVLEPnMrf129JxtRA8zVkD0xmgYgV0R6cuMfgesm53dbPyLeg2otNfsZwhcjKcZaLzeCH4DhQfn4W1ys2mR7xavfSatiJLUPoNu-NY_fsDNY6_ROp/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.50.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="659" data-original-width="517" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuCIMcGStWxdRH-RQxzGUuOvUPZ5yRVLEPnMrf129JxtRA8zVkD0xmgYgV0R6cuMfgesm53dbPyLeg2otNfsZwhcjKcZaLzeCH4DhQfn4W1ys2mR7xavfSatiJLUPoNu-NY_fsDNY6_ROp/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.25.50.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbUsE4UUV2TAvHzKXCn5COgGPwz_jNI6y3DmUZ2HGzahuOL5ChyphenhyphenC_vzaXttWlQH5vlD8HeNb4I_3oM4oC5UOidyAbXEmqL_O-OjhlHZEqqI2M9Vp2sPeHcIZFiy1FuP0b3nK1JXymYbah2/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.26.03.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbUsE4UUV2TAvHzKXCn5COgGPwz_jNI6y3DmUZ2HGzahuOL5ChyphenhyphenC_vzaXttWlQH5vlD8HeNb4I_3oM4oC5UOidyAbXEmqL_O-OjhlHZEqqI2M9Vp2sPeHcIZFiy1FuP0b3nK1JXymYbah2/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.26.03.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kmn51o0nkAFoaL4UxPNOu-LnuLT3F5JA7-3-2xePfkjeTguGCRg_m-w4wUhyphenhyphenzYZxWz_h8UoZGLnR8AJR9VvBXcd9Yg33PeCHRUIUnTU9v8BtkdSULiUBolrPwSzCLCZHAVwIVgNqL-ZX/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.26.31.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kmn51o0nkAFoaL4UxPNOu-LnuLT3F5JA7-3-2xePfkjeTguGCRg_m-w4wUhyphenhyphenzYZxWz_h8UoZGLnR8AJR9VvBXcd9Yg33PeCHRUIUnTU9v8BtkdSULiUBolrPwSzCLCZHAVwIVgNqL-ZX/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-24+kl.+17.26.31.png" width="636" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
//</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><b>Altitude5500 m / 5947 m</b></i></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><b>Dénivelé positif700 m</b></i></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><b>Dénivelé des difficultés550 m</b></i></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><b>Pente 90°</b></i></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><b>Un "petit" 6000 m raisonnable et une orientation W bien pratique pour ne pas prendre le soleil trop tôt. Petit dénivelé mais qui prend du temps : Suitth. vant les températures, faire attention à la dernière longueur en neige foireuse, ne pas arriver dans la chaleur.</b></i></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-78991539979224903072019-10-13T10:26:00.001+02:002019-10-13T10:26:40.031+02:00la Chasse aux Trésors - Mont Oreb<h4>
La Chasse aux trésors is an other great Piola route in the aiguille rouge massive.<br />It travels up some variated climbing cut in two different halves, 6 plus 6 pitches.<br />This route is to be find on Mont Oreb, 1h15min on the trail up vallon de Bérard from le Buet, Vallorcine.<br />Find the cairn at 1702m (46,01205N/6,88709E) and continue up right on the well marked path. This route starts quite far right on the falaise with the first bolt some 3-4m up on a broken slab.<br />The route Diamants de Sang is about 10m higher up to the left. to find Trésors just walk down passing ¨de Sang¨ towards a terasse of blocks</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGzZ31CycB4anQBFN2-x_WvfQR2UUbQAz3_F8cCfFhDmFI8kE-MsSpoK4g6cxxMLBDYUubv39wKLlwkPAW3R6E4_Ii1rw07iuw3sXMhUADi7so8Li4KU5y-mU8XxJLBS19ccbe5LTEbIU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.33.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="516" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGzZ31CycB4anQBFN2-x_WvfQR2UUbQAz3_F8cCfFhDmFI8kE-MsSpoK4g6cxxMLBDYUubv39wKLlwkPAW3R6E4_Ii1rw07iuw3sXMhUADi7so8Li4KU5y-mU8XxJLBS19ccbe5LTEbIU/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.33.58.png" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach up Vallon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is a nice area with a couple of interesting routes which are getting more and more popular. But a good escape on warm days or when its to crowded in Chamonix<br />
<i>(Topo at the bottom of the page)</i><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwJV7Shf5Ed4o2k6zyOuqEqsbIFHLLTmjwpTcjNuQjmOLNAnQ0QhCC_S8W-42w4coYcms56J6kPF_EIS1lYnCquVixa1wjQlLKLpZdBZmBoUIZgB9UPKAfA3ipXHNdsVmfD-DqpaLhOZo/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.34.27.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwJV7Shf5Ed4o2k6zyOuqEqsbIFHLLTmjwpTcjNuQjmOLNAnQ0QhCC_S8W-42w4coYcms56J6kPF_EIS1lYnCquVixa1wjQlLKLpZdBZmBoUIZgB9UPKAfA3ipXHNdsVmfD-DqpaLhOZo/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.34.27.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mont Oreb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>The first part</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7U6ZTBHRPemKoArPB5x1SwmSCriIR0kY8qhkyyG6OGjWq4LfQt9dbgKWcAGeEAinjqPFlk9uwx6NVgPsEQ_q2dOU7sUEiq0xezilwHYKYiE3XsAjU-2vOvflRTUbsoXz4Ls1tk-g_jUW5/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.33.26.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7U6ZTBHRPemKoArPB5x1SwmSCriIR0kY8qhkyyG6OGjWq4LfQt9dbgKWcAGeEAinjqPFlk9uwx6NVgPsEQ_q2dOU7sUEiq0xezilwHYKYiE3XsAjU-2vOvflRTUbsoXz4Ls1tk-g_jUW5/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.33.26.png" width="480" /></a>L1, 5b - a broken slab<br />
L2, 5c - a slab and then a short diedre and a small roof<br />
L3, 6a - Traversing leftwards<br />
L4, 6b - the premier Piola slab, short crux section<br />
L5, 6a+ - Some interesting slabs<br />
L6, 4 - Pass 2 bolts and find a defuse trail rightwards<br />
<br />
Walk up some steep grassy and rocky section more or less straight up to the base of a small diedre.<br />
More to the left there is an other route with a lunule.<br />
The belay is visible some 30m above<br />
<br />
Second Part<br />
L7, 6c - Start up a short slab aiming for a tricky looking diedre, which are protected with 3 bolts<br />
L8, 6b+ - Traverse right over a couloir to a slab. A small roof up to the belay<br />
L9, 6a+ - a nice crack section white looking rock to the left, 45m<br />
L10, 6b+ - an engaging diedre on soli rock with a spectacular traverse out left to a pillar<br />
L11, 6b+ - Continue up the red pillar, short crux at the top section, 45m<br />
If rappelling stop here, if walking down its an other pitch of 5b with 5 bolts<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZA_rpvNdy0GfMwxRezVLVHMeYjrCNUC2DYDae4OriN15VviSOkyLVMlbxSLQGq2O_fu8DgHKPZeQ3oabFFIFclcmVcNwLrUHS3AnQBrpdEyapylrpMCohwoglR6trhREhLV-3NTVED3O/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.34.38.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="889" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZA_rpvNdy0GfMwxRezVLVHMeYjrCNUC2DYDae4OriN15VviSOkyLVMlbxSLQGq2O_fu8DgHKPZeQ3oabFFIFclcmVcNwLrUHS3AnQBrpdEyapylrpMCohwoglR6trhREhLV-3NTVED3O/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.34.38.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Descent<br />
Makes more or less the same way down, following the same sentier between the two sections, possible to make the rappels in 4 plus 3 rappels, the last is +50m<br />
Take care of left equipment if there are Chamois around!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimtUujH3az8WdKN4L87FBf8ETAL8pVE7io6e6EapchYlDzY0NarmgKGamkY4OE0Sft0gCCtXOKyvd-6UkW2BquYZ62pBa4ABfW4k02KvAX65BGoIUCRNs-PqL5ZYJzBsEcvPLIwCkdmt-U/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.34.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="514" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimtUujH3az8WdKN4L87FBf8ETAL8pVE7io6e6EapchYlDzY0NarmgKGamkY4OE0Sft0gCCtXOKyvd-6UkW2BquYZ62pBa4ABfW4k02KvAX65BGoIUCRNs-PqL5ZYJzBsEcvPLIwCkdmt-U/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.34.49.png" width="474" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwDF554IKmPqpf4FGByIdb9jGudGI_2Kma-VmCB1MA22cx_FLcEJnp-GYvEG7BWnH2wAxYLQ7SO62shMe5t6hOGQwXnmCRleuIN4TxpStKVy4gFhJLTv34HtwR90mPGmDQPWeVuTnS4IpF/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.35.01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="926" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwDF554IKmPqpf4FGByIdb9jGudGI_2Kma-VmCB1MA22cx_FLcEJnp-GYvEG7BWnH2wAxYLQ7SO62shMe5t6hOGQwXnmCRleuIN4TxpStKVy4gFhJLTv34HtwR90mPGmDQPWeVuTnS4IpF/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+09.35.01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<h4>
Equipment</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5j79B-hZVlbaJbvhNc8bx2t5Vd3kiZNcI6NKxw9fCH3uEGPO47dMuYzwkKhul3BgLtx63K59nAgwxcq6lDzHbpM55lAXHkIC7KkTU55GL4fdq2gRAZWzN-hqdGwPCFjwSxpdZm-lDlgq/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+10.13.44.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="454" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5j79B-hZVlbaJbvhNc8bx2t5Vd3kiZNcI6NKxw9fCH3uEGPO47dMuYzwkKhul3BgLtx63K59nAgwxcq6lDzHbpM55lAXHkIC7KkTU55GL4fdq2gRAZWzN-hqdGwPCFjwSxpdZm-lDlgq/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-10-13+kl.+10.13.44.png" width="460" /></a>2x50m ropes, if rappelling back down<br />
a couple of friends C4 size #0.3-#2<br />
8 QD´s plus some free biners for belay<br />
<br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-56969916707536515862019-09-30T18:49:00.002+02:002019-09-30T19:00:46.014+02:00Moby Dick - Aig de Mesure<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5RvPuWopSuWDmCgAUc5uLFOspEF32VZ629YS8ZrAArpHbIMqrnbLG1Ub9IMEZ_psfymZAjrDHBm1vJCsja_n8KNzjrglIjAo7pKfK7E6zOLZpgw_das6q1Zkyb8gfDfPYEX6VnUGDitYW/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.52.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="270" data-original-width="928" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5RvPuWopSuWDmCgAUc5uLFOspEF32VZ629YS8ZrAArpHbIMqrnbLG1Ub9IMEZ_psfymZAjrDHBm1vJCsja_n8KNzjrglIjAo7pKfK7E6zOLZpgw_das6q1Zkyb8gfDfPYEX6VnUGDitYW/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.52.39.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aig de Mesure to the left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:<br />Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!<br />Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh67lrM1cQomyec2kj9M4fRf9supSBL18KouOfrWdAhXcTbebjqbzn4O8gTkZjd12R94Zq8tXkEExryq3sayT0EjHUfX9Dm4bCa7kgEHgd82DMIr6IXChjovBi0lP95F-0YS89DQJtn2vem/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.53.36.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="425" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh67lrM1cQomyec2kj9M4fRf9supSBL18KouOfrWdAhXcTbebjqbzn4O8gTkZjd12R94Zq8tXkEExryq3sayT0EjHUfX9Dm4bCa7kgEHgd82DMIr6IXChjovBi0lP95F-0YS89DQJtn2vem/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.53.36.png" width="462" /></a></div>
<br />
<h4>
Approche</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk345bGb66eUOU7pP1MUAzn6aHwqBXIAWgW2hGYdmISO0JivIjdLV_Zd58h8eFkOR4NCuCF0hD4_-oItgMoj7Np89vLfhzbgUumnfh_9slIJae3ks4xluDn8vJCTAQD1tOyJdoYMMPtF7_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.37.54.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="518" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk345bGb66eUOU7pP1MUAzn6aHwqBXIAWgW2hGYdmISO0JivIjdLV_Zd58h8eFkOR4NCuCF0hD4_-oItgMoj7Np89vLfhzbgUumnfh_9slIJae3ks4xluDn8vJCTAQD1tOyJdoYMMPtF7_/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.37.54.png" width="298" /></a>After col des Montets continue towards le Buet. Just before the village there are a few parking spots on the right.<br />
Take the first left (horizontal forest road that goes to the waterfall in Bérard), or park in the parking lot opposite (S 1365 m). Take this road for about 500 m. Then take a narrow path to the left (indicated Praz Torrent unfortunately invisible from the road).<br />
This path leads to the head of Praz Torrent (point 1803 m). Continue towards the homonymous needles, then before the path really straighten (cairn next to a very large block), leave it to engage left in the Combe de l'Encrenaz towards the pass of the same name. Climb it back to the best (cairns and chamois). Pass near a bivouac then a large fractured block characteristic. Cross then the scree to join the opposite wall<br />
<br />
Time 2h<br />
<br />
The start is located roughly in line with the spilling area with roofs in a pretty colored wall.<br />
The original departure is the one on the left. A few meters to the right is a variant for L1 / L2<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3JBJjNnXkvOlPf-TSstdalOrTMymMl_Si3NJr8nxofNTnl8tkxyUki2khhPzwwah8HH47P0xMOnvdjhXn4hVlTvWlu2HXIvmOf2A_9o-m0Yp6MW3GaEghdTXaG0tQH7qoQ9MzmmuTfEKK/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.39.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="402" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3JBJjNnXkvOlPf-TSstdalOrTMymMl_Si3NJr8nxofNTnl8tkxyUki2khhPzwwah8HH47P0xMOnvdjhXn4hVlTvWlu2HXIvmOf2A_9o-m0Yp6MW3GaEghdTXaG0tQH7qoQ9MzmmuTfEKK/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.39.21.png" width="370" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Grading</b><br />
The original quotations are 6a +, 6b +, 6b +, 6c, 6c +, 7b, 6c +, 6a, 6c +<br />
<br />
<b>Materiel</b><br />
2x50m rope<br />
11 QD´s<br />
Crampons might be good in the early summer<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQlu19Q-679EqSZSeDW3bOsnLEjsgA0zE_78ahG4Jk1qpa746zyR6WTAmMNGLO5HrZeGXhdJ8-Nl3ftE4Td9zfO6iCsg8FRWf-eRpgpWl64W7UAKqFr8gvPq5W0DLrLNpOZ6aN8FSQt-_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.03.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQlu19Q-679EqSZSeDW3bOsnLEjsgA0zE_78ahG4Jk1qpa746zyR6WTAmMNGLO5HrZeGXhdJ8-Nl3ftE4Td9zfO6iCsg8FRWf-eRpgpWl64W7UAKqFr8gvPq5W0DLrLNpOZ6aN8FSQt-_/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.03.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRCFpXdxqngJz_AxBEv8DkhiCMX_unMd__QJZ2vWJfMOdAiFnWCeFih3zANqszLxOL1aCea4P9JF5mUs37B_tDgo3ZcjQ1t40e2XmjIsD2wgwWe7OulcBAr77aGU-A5SAsQJwqhmZFhqo/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.12.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRCFpXdxqngJz_AxBEv8DkhiCMX_unMd__QJZ2vWJfMOdAiFnWCeFih3zANqszLxOL1aCea4P9JF5mUs37B_tDgo3ZcjQ1t40e2XmjIsD2wgwWe7OulcBAr77aGU-A5SAsQJwqhmZFhqo/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.12.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiMCuymf9NwbsvWgU11DRlvXYIeRlroLpCN0ufX8bEDNs-MreeHgA4DKC5ZzBLSbDpJKq8CpQdxLx-J1B51HrrPGk0fB-32OaItULoujb1V4lEyHrYsU5A5VqiU9cPSzTzqaYm8ZOGKZM/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiMCuymf9NwbsvWgU11DRlvXYIeRlroLpCN0ufX8bEDNs-MreeHgA4DKC5ZzBLSbDpJKq8CpQdxLx-J1B51HrrPGk0fB-32OaItULoujb1V4lEyHrYsU5A5VqiU9cPSzTzqaYm8ZOGKZM/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.21.png" width="484" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVF0QnngJ8uJfqMmzVApqA7mXpmxP738xadAca7JV7gwErA-_9Kv-4qr5tFfz8234a2rUcIjSDyu6-bXa2jZjGUI2Mq6iKhIm_hO8y5qm1POybajg1jKjwbYTXQG6v2qbrZzaSyneeWMKO/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="514" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVF0QnngJ8uJfqMmzVApqA7mXpmxP738xadAca7JV7gwErA-_9Kv-4qr5tFfz8234a2rUcIjSDyu6-bXa2jZjGUI2Mq6iKhIm_hO8y5qm1POybajg1jKjwbYTXQG6v2qbrZzaSyneeWMKO/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.48.png" width="474" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDTt9aqJ04snis_5EDiTvp3Yh-gqOPiKmL70LSt7RRTMBvzruSwVwYMOjd2yw3HyCZCImZ62odJDniqAFGN33qRGsrt5EjYsnKV6E7Uw10BUsHkdGPpuBWsDljIkXGrQK-WEpCWldAjdqV/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.56.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="513" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDTt9aqJ04snis_5EDiTvp3Yh-gqOPiKmL70LSt7RRTMBvzruSwVwYMOjd2yw3HyCZCImZ62odJDniqAFGN33qRGsrt5EjYsnKV6E7Uw10BUsHkdGPpuBWsDljIkXGrQK-WEpCWldAjdqV/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.38.56.png" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summet!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyJAwlH2hOFsSDkdgK0tcrDCIRpiBEbkQzkUj2bjU3Gw6f4eICDWFuF1lLXytOWwOG7NBAsGVUG3OCljFDQIET2sMvdx9ssV0NWjQLeBzlrfGgiWjh10dKPgzsrhWN8OVBv2uBuqlzhE2/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.39.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="515" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyJAwlH2hOFsSDkdgK0tcrDCIRpiBEbkQzkUj2bjU3Gw6f4eICDWFuF1lLXytOWwOG7NBAsGVUG3OCljFDQIET2sMvdx9ssV0NWjQLeBzlrfGgiWjh10dKPgzsrhWN8OVBv2uBuqlzhE2/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-30+kl.+18.39.06.png" width="476" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take care on the rappels, some are quite airy...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
//Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-69054139534936807322019-09-08T19:40:00.000+02:002019-09-08T19:40:16.469+02:00Voie Bonatti Mazeaud - Petites Jorasses<h4>
Beautiful climbing on fabulous rock in a grandiose and solitary environment - Voie Bonatti Mazeaud on Petites Jorasses</h4>
<div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcr7M2ZMx-71D8iaFauAqdbB2rnU5dTSI1OF3H-_s-eiZeqiI3YipEBFsOOHyqRUmR99k9FVak4xadCEla_xN5JOeOZSE9mzBw6emEzn4o3wGbd0-eZo6K7y_VFjSP53eYZBFd2sleZ5GU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.23.29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcr7M2ZMx-71D8iaFauAqdbB2rnU5dTSI1OF3H-_s-eiZeqiI3YipEBFsOOHyqRUmR99k9FVak4xadCEla_xN5JOeOZSE9mzBw6emEzn4o3wGbd0-eZo6K7y_VFjSP53eYZBFd2sleZ5GU/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.23.29.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<br />
ROAD ACCESS:</div>
<div>
Once you have arrived in Courmayeur you enter Val Ferret and continue the road up to Lavachey. Parking the car near the large picnic area in Fréboudze 1650m.</div>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibWZ2riqnSFTd2Pupi5XHiAFJrtoRaKOA7GJOmXuqJCoq1nB2YWWqKkAC6mdHbO4mxEWNHPbnOnz-QUHHX4jE_ELEG9myUGBSZRnFTpbtoYLWaLmrjgPjtUyU2ex_HgeLw1gzSfwlkFsxO/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.06.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="525" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibWZ2riqnSFTd2Pupi5XHiAFJrtoRaKOA7GJOmXuqJCoq1nB2YWWqKkAC6mdHbO4mxEWNHPbnOnz-QUHHX4jE_ELEG9myUGBSZRnFTpbtoYLWaLmrjgPjtUyU2ex_HgeLw1gzSfwlkFsxO/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.06.10.png" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its Italy, so always start with a good warm up!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<div>
APPROACH:</div>
<div>
Cross the stream with the wooden bridge and follow the path that goes slightly uphill until it meets the stream that descends from the Frébourze Valley. A good marked path.</div>
<div>
Now go up the right side of the valley and the stream, follow the meadows until you find little cairns and yellow marks that lead to an area equipped with fixed ropes, a short section of easy scrambling. Once you reach the upper part of the valley, always following the yellow marks and the numerous cairns, you go to the left, alternating between snowfields and stretches of debris. A last short stretch equipped leads to the comfortable Bivacco Gervasutti 2835m. </div>
<div>
Attention because the conditions of access to the bivouac may vary depending on the season. (3h30 / 5h00 from the car) </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
ACCESS TO PETITES JORASSES</div>
<div>
From the bivouac go down on the glacier proceeding towards the evident wall, which is reached in about 1h00. The route is variable depending on the conditions and time of the year.</div>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcrYf26649hy1G4IZWFvmEmLtmug99TB5TGA6uPf4E9XCCggvCYgN1-YLuwRcqwi8J14zC3kpCE5rlwhoW-Kjeg7fJri2RrUg1DGwEm_7w9tYRoy4OHLDvuhiTv5sCNmnUAZQK7tD4oaII/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.07.15.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="515" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcrYf26649hy1G4IZWFvmEmLtmug99TB5TGA6uPf4E9XCCggvCYgN1-YLuwRcqwi8J14zC3kpCE5rlwhoW-Kjeg7fJri2RrUg1DGwEm_7w9tYRoy4OHLDvuhiTv5sCNmnUAZQK7tD4oaII/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.07.15.png" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The base of the route...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
START</div>
<div>
At a system of easy cracks and corners below the large dihedral that characterizes the climb</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyjwYV1SgIIIx8p7BDUMXo6eRs0M-yHw0aGPNOzV5alrODlZuFI_hBmqWsGRBkAAGOruu31yR1SX0e2LTfnpviQJfHh_LsmNAGHb5nbbjUxDe5F2QAGmVLIdl3-jVf7MJBp_3NpKapelN/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.07.29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyjwYV1SgIIIx8p7BDUMXo6eRs0M-yHw0aGPNOzV5alrODlZuFI_hBmqWsGRBkAAGOruu31yR1SX0e2LTfnpviQJfHh_LsmNAGHb5nbbjUxDe5F2QAGmVLIdl3-jVf7MJBp_3NpKapelN/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.07.29.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAWmD0QLgTeh8H4oP593l-nnJQMpZjuzd06pa4Mi0zx91fFYilDYswB99TQ8-TqU8tqZye5-mDKa8ymvugsDJudnL-Uh8KKtNm6_yCY76B03BWTACoct9w3Cx2bwGb30RJZsvVSQmAVsP_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAWmD0QLgTeh8H4oP593l-nnJQMpZjuzd06pa4Mi0zx91fFYilDYswB99TQ8-TqU8tqZye5-mDKa8ymvugsDJudnL-Uh8KKtNm6_yCY76B03BWTACoct9w3Cx2bwGb30RJZsvVSQmAVsP_/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.00.png" width="508" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_F2qrtCJVW8Kr1hD9fJeuXH4dSrdmMy5P4dZIf216uMQrDfzGc4ouTpdC7VsV9tqaGR2nczGNe2dlmqBIkmVPBGXN5lWJRoYFocOnI3wMDpNtKFJkQHQrDOwLLV0jypPP3cxbqXJYUkN8/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.09.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="687" data-original-width="515" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_F2qrtCJVW8Kr1hD9fJeuXH4dSrdmMy5P4dZIf216uMQrDfzGc4ouTpdC7VsV9tqaGR2nczGNe2dlmqBIkmVPBGXN5lWJRoYFocOnI3wMDpNtKFJkQHQrDOwLLV0jypPP3cxbqXJYUkN8/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.09.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOgvcgrPuYDIeISNxQ49sCH3kfmL6O8HkkBxMtI9yxy2h929rEI37XvyMFEYFIiQy5KBUQJtUtS3qa8HRJlwG6qBcZlqIszapYViuLMGA1CC92rnZYFSSX3ewjxfIsY_OlV9hfsvo3ulYU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.37.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="511" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOgvcgrPuYDIeISNxQ49sCH3kfmL6O8HkkBxMtI9yxy2h929rEI37XvyMFEYFIiQy5KBUQJtUtS3qa8HRJlwG6qBcZlqIszapYViuLMGA1CC92rnZYFSSX3ewjxfIsY_OlV9hfsvo3ulYU/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.37.png" width="488" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjkifN0o8pJ3a7RrdeAdvUIt9b2KuKDm6oDzNStd1RgAUEyAk-WsDmsNsVb2UNKa_5gUu4a6yJphcQ76_xz0-U7aehYQnDk4bPnFvft2-WBuoFJMz0GhCAHB03XmyKLkECNPEeDRDS-AI/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.47.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="516" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjkifN0o8pJ3a7RrdeAdvUIt9b2KuKDm6oDzNStd1RgAUEyAk-WsDmsNsVb2UNKa_5gUu4a6yJphcQ76_xz0-U7aehYQnDk4bPnFvft2-WBuoFJMz0GhCAHB03XmyKLkECNPEeDRDS-AI/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.08.47.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMIOX34jK1PZBtHVxDS_JfcYl4YMFV43402vi7uMW7Ie2dQvE1Hw_zmfn54HL8HdNvqGJzfdzZLIXKBDFUr2yiZ3Vva6hiSn44wN7T_ypWohs2BJ1_omk4rijTuvvT0rz7aTY4mVIT4Akn/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.09.41.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMIOX34jK1PZBtHVxDS_JfcYl4YMFV43402vi7uMW7Ie2dQvE1Hw_zmfn54HL8HdNvqGJzfdzZLIXKBDFUr2yiZ3Vva6hiSn44wN7T_ypWohs2BJ1_omk4rijTuvvT0rz7aTY4mVIT4Akn/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.09.41.png" width="488" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36KX_5_NVAGpQyspUaRBp04zcwfSLFl2ws0iIuINU5l-M8WhgEs9ATtj8-M7t2JxE5XVOP-DpyVMED8r3SyO-Tnw2hfJz10mFYOPoua4Mwx0-KU-eFvxDPDGEY4iNv9g94xWLZUZOR_wH/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.10.38.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36KX_5_NVAGpQyspUaRBp04zcwfSLFl2ws0iIuINU5l-M8WhgEs9ATtj8-M7t2JxE5XVOP-DpyVMED8r3SyO-Tnw2hfJz10mFYOPoua4Mwx0-KU-eFvxDPDGEY4iNv9g94xWLZUZOR_wH/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.10.38.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit og sac hauling after the 7a crux pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNkDzZpkjkU0ISV7TBCvmlW4mdRyCN7bqcKd-GerUNdvj1r0sz5n4Pf_Hs4k4BBHoJ6mmNQnupd1kufoQo_aQulHpI4bHvJ0_JlnUu3bAcTdKp5lzhTNQ_VjMbRsP-eh46n0Ulr7RdrjH/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.10.51.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="904" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNkDzZpkjkU0ISV7TBCvmlW4mdRyCN7bqcKd-GerUNdvj1r0sz5n4Pf_Hs4k4BBHoJ6mmNQnupd1kufoQo_aQulHpI4bHvJ0_JlnUu3bAcTdKp5lzhTNQ_VjMbRsP-eh46n0Ulr7RdrjH/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.10.51.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna following on the same...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXlE6nh14TmfUu7DZ7yASRZRIlnq-PjjZJ81YpgjzU2qLtOYyIS_yslYtW18qBePEEhHjfTcngFVnsaURWTiR4iqgXrslr3G5dSvdQN7H7OhZcpdpN-s7MPBer-XQOJSdlWEY831xLD_-/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.11.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXlE6nh14TmfUu7DZ7yASRZRIlnq-PjjZJ81YpgjzU2qLtOYyIS_yslYtW18qBePEEhHjfTcngFVnsaURWTiR4iqgXrslr3G5dSvdQN7H7OhZcpdpN-s7MPBer-XQOJSdlWEY831xLD_-/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.11.06.png" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Work out!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIoQC3FC0FH9UsvM3FTfg8giysbtDH2Xa-TSm5-IcIcQnUSye0v5e1tWCy7XZdVAoJpEOX_OIXMGmNEAw5QdiaSmSvaCIftBwLKOvZjMnUWjyDt3IFufScaoeAKACyUg16fLXkbYh0Por/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.11.32.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIoQC3FC0FH9UsvM3FTfg8giysbtDH2Xa-TSm5-IcIcQnUSye0v5e1tWCy7XZdVAoJpEOX_OIXMGmNEAw5QdiaSmSvaCIftBwLKOvZjMnUWjyDt3IFufScaoeAKACyUg16fLXkbYh0Por/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.11.32.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
<div>
ROUTE</div>
<div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">13 pitches of great climbing!</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcr7M2ZMx-71D8iaFauAqdbB2rnU5dTSI1OF3H-_s-eiZeqiI3YipEBFsOOHyqRUmR99k9FVak4xadCEla_xN5JOeOZSE9mzBw6emEzn4o3wGbd0-eZo6K7y_VFjSP53eYZBFd2sleZ5GU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.23.29.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="518" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcr7M2ZMx-71D8iaFauAqdbB2rnU5dTSI1OF3H-_s-eiZeqiI3YipEBFsOOHyqRUmR99k9FVak4xadCEla_xN5JOeOZSE9mzBw6emEzn4o3wGbd0-eZo6K7y_VFjSP53eYZBFd2sleZ5GU/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.23.29.png" width="298" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">A good topo is hard to find. The most detailed topo is the one on the Danza Verticale website, since the old Piola topo </span>isn't<span style="font-family: inherit;"> possible to find any more.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">However there's no description of the upper part of the face in it. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The first five/six/seven pitches are very obvious. Thereafter the routefinding becomes somewhat a little difficult. At the end of the corner of the crux pitch there is a belay. You must continue leftwards to the second belay a few meters further and not go straight up if you want to follow the original line (going straight up is also possible and not completely illogical but there is at least one very loose section). </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">After that, a good route finding instinct will be at your benefit...</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">TIME</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">8-12 h</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Descent</span></b></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Two options:</span></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">normal route (north-east ridge to Col des Petites Jorasses) (take all glacier gear with you)</span></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4KFbvKQohEyKA_G_2iyCOV2PbbkXjyjX1RxwxR8pSEITxK4RdlLMKNkpj9LGZU0UXrT3-I5TGjIBDu1RyCeVZKgGlLH4K1dFMODQDQ4elFU0yF_DkV6YEc-rbGpOkieafj5DaeXJ4Dcu/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.21.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="519" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4KFbvKQohEyKA_G_2iyCOV2PbbkXjyjX1RxwxR8pSEITxK4RdlLMKNkpj9LGZU0UXrT3-I5TGjIBDu1RyCeVZKgGlLH4K1dFMODQDQ4elFU0yF_DkV6YEc-rbGpOkieafj5DaeXJ4Dcu/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.21.49.png" width="327" /></a>
<li style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">rappel using bolted belays: just before the South Ridge ends at the highest part of the face there are some belay anchors. Take the one with two bolts that is just on the east side of the ridge. A few steep (bolted) rappels take you to the easy angled slope. Find the next bolted rappel not too far from where the Bonatti route ended. Rappel further down the bolted belays that take you to the LEFT side of the Bonatti route when FACING DOWNWARDS. So you are not rappalling on the same route that you climbed. From the last anchor above the glacier a traversing rappel has to be made back to the first belay of the Bonatti (where you probably left your glacier gear). From here it's a short rappel to the glacier. </span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Remarques</span></b></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjwyI9-gT1RduluR9zr2Asb2_QBw_RsQqrFpyKajVAj1Fq9gOOw9SFMdBZINseCL_pCh0P5ICshiX9TpXvUIw798zDDct5oldMIyQBUTwYIIYyoiSBaCoAiJiRYepCvanS5ofVLMcLW6P/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.22.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="513" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjwyI9-gT1RduluR9zr2Asb2_QBw_RsQqrFpyKajVAj1Fq9gOOw9SFMdBZINseCL_pCh0P5ICshiX9TpXvUIw798zDDct5oldMIyQBUTwYIIYyoiSBaCoAiJiRYepCvanS5ofVLMcLW6P/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.22.06.png" width="301" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Very beautiful climb, not crowded, in a wild environment. Bivacco Gervasutti is very well equiped and worth a visit by itself.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Take care with your equipment if you leave any at the bivack or at the base of the route. We had one back pack stolen, but its a demo and its </span>only<span style="font-family: inherit;"> one made of this kind so it will be easy to recognize :-)</span></b></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Matériel </span></b></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
Set of cams BD #05 - 3 (double of 0.5 to 1)</div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
Set of Aliens Green-Red</div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
Small set of wires, small sizes good</div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
2x50m rope</div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9bIhlkLN0d6lg2EwUAeIhd-vVRsRwn-hTPFtY6vbRwq95IuwRz2oox8eYSTCU4D5KYRKYdzoq_02oqdqW9NeZuLjFaJc17Rg1CsxpJKJJGRN7pdpxLXnSnd4Uq6Fz5UyoN-v-hhjfEtm/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.22.17.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="648" data-original-width="471" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9bIhlkLN0d6lg2EwUAeIhd-vVRsRwn-hTPFtY6vbRwq95IuwRz2oox8eYSTCU4D5KYRKYdzoq_02oqdqW9NeZuLjFaJc17Rg1CsxpJKJJGRN7pdpxLXnSnd4Uq6Fz5UyoN-v-hhjfEtm/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-09-08+kl.+19.22.17.png" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from Piola Topo...the nowadays stolen one :-(</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
External link</div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 2px;">
<a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/803890/en/petites-jorasses-voie-bonatti-mazeaud-face-e-" target="_blank">Camp to Camp</a></div>
</div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-45330044043110346212019-08-18T13:51:00.001+02:002019-08-18T13:51:14.265+02:00Höjdsjuka, symptom och förebyggande behandling <h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Med ökande höjd så sjunker lufttrycket. Ett måttligt sänkt lufttryck spelar dock mycket liten roll för helt friska personer. Men när höjden över havet passerar 2400 meter kan anpassningen emellertid ta längre tid, vilket kan medföra att man drabbas av så kallad höjdsjuka. 3-3500m brukar för de flesta vara en kritisk gräns. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Höjdsjuka beror på att balansen mellan vävnadsvätskan innanför och utanför kroppens celler påverkas av ett lägre lufttryck så andelen vävnadsvätska utanför kroppens celler till att börja med ökar. Benägenheten att utveckla höjdsjuka är mycket individuell och det finns inget påvisat samband med fysisk kondition eller ålder vad gäller anpassningsförmåga till höjd, i för övrigt friska personer.</span></h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_XrYBTrUCuJ_yvZZMbFmvQcWAYJDDJ2gafUbtY6hpMdyhpBdbXEVHF9IWWCFfWc1ciPGM_uGz5p9x9k-SY4oSCn-kxBOvtfBBw5FNtVc_BTS3osrkLyjvY0GoX9yi5HOO-Hx-VLZYQgcc/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-08-18+kl.+13.48.32.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_XrYBTrUCuJ_yvZZMbFmvQcWAYJDDJ2gafUbtY6hpMdyhpBdbXEVHF9IWWCFfWc1ciPGM_uGz5p9x9k-SY4oSCn-kxBOvtfBBw5FNtVc_BTS3osrkLyjvY0GoX9yi5HOO-Hx-VLZYQgcc/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-08-18+kl.+13.48.32.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Klättring på hög höjd, Alpamayo "French Direct"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Symtom och behandling</span></h4>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">En ökad mängd vätska utanför cellerna i hjärnan orsakar till att börja med vagt illamående, svaghet och dunkande huvudvärk.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Det får inte plats mer ön en viss mängd vävnadsvätska innanför ett oeftergivligt skallben. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">En Diamoxtablett lindrar besvären tillfälligt men kan i värsta fall maskera en försämring. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Diamox (acetazolamid) kan skrivas ut på vanligt recept i Sverige även om preparatet inte finns i FASS.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Det används vanligen som ögonmedicin och ges för att minska på trycket av ögat. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Om höjden ökar ännu mer förvärras de nyss nämnda besvären och kräkningar tillstöter när hjärnan pressas samman. Det kan kännas mycket tungt bara att gå och huvudvärken blir mycket intensiv. Den flyttas från främre delen av pannloben till baksidan av skallbenet. Och ger en dunkande plågsam smärta. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Minskad balans och oförmåga att gå i en rak linje är synnerligen allvarliga tecken. De som trots detta inte återvänder till lägre höjd får också ökad mängd vätska i lungorna och riskerar bokstavligt talat att "drunkna" invärtes.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">På mycket hög höjd (över 6000 meter) räcker inte lufttrycket till för att ens förse kroppen med syre och då tillkommer andra besvär.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwRkdH25mYVBRuhAvCiPoeu3zoYupg_kczGHtbBnXvQ41V2p3SrviWGcnB_ap4iAgVQoGdTU9UsdSs0T-YmAaDBsDvBU-cGdKRS1eWq7tXJnUsrZ3Z9kQNrt75GwOVMxHy6XQqeUXgDvhJ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-08-18+kl.+13.47.56.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="414" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwRkdH25mYVBRuhAvCiPoeu3zoYupg_kczGHtbBnXvQ41V2p3SrviWGcnB_ap4iAgVQoGdTU9UsdSs0T-YmAaDBsDvBU-cGdKRS1eWq7tXJnUsrZ3Z9kQNrt75GwOVMxHy6XQqeUXgDvhJ/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-08-18+kl.+13.47.56.png" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">En syremätare kan vara en bra investering för att hålla koll på din acklimatisering</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Förebyggande behandling</span></h4>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Lugn acklimatisering - stanna 2-3 dygn på 2400-3000 m höjd och ta sedan bara 300 m/dygn. Undvik extrem ansträngning och håll ner pulsen. Sov på så låg höjd som möjligt. Ät täta men små måltider och drick rikligt med vätska. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Diamox kan användas i förebyggande syfte men har ibland biverkningar i form av yrsel och illamående. Speciellt brukar det bli en pirrande känsla i fingertopparna. Dosen bör vara så låg som möjligt – 1-1/2 tablett à 125 mg morgon och kväll brukar räcka.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Vilka bör undvika hög höjd?</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">De som har avancerad blodbrist, kärlkramp, hjärtbesvär med nedsatt fysisk förmåga och/eller de som har nedsatt lungfunktion (KOL) bör/skall undvika hög höjd. Individer med vissa ärftliga blodsjukdomar (ex sickle cell sjukdom) skall inte heller utsätta sig för hög höjd.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">DIAMOX FÅR ABSOLUT INTE ANVÄNDAS FÖR ATT NÅ ÄNNU HÖGRE HÖJD TROTS BESVÄRANDE HUVUDVÄRK OCH ILLAMÅENDE. RISKEN FÖR ÖKAD MÄNGD VÄTSKA I LUNGORNA OCH SNABB DÖD FINNS FORTFARANDE KVAR. BÄSTA OCH ENKLASTE BOTEN MOT ALLA FORMER AV HÖJDSJUKA ÄR ATT OMEDELBART ÅTERGÅ TILL LÄGRE HÖJD.</span></div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-62856750703255181522019-07-17T18:48:00.003+02:002019-07-17T18:48:26.118+02:00Clocher du Tacul<h4>
Clocher du Tacul<br />A great little route up in the middle of the great Massif du Mont Blanc. Six pitches of relaxed climbing on mostly perfect granit, once the first section from the glacier over the fist blocks are made.<br />A route that is reached in some 45min/1h from the Helbronner lift and usually never crowded with people<br />The third pitch is the mist eye-catching one, but over all the four last pitches are of great quality<br />Specially impressive is pitch five, the Giljotin pitch!</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkafkn57kQi3vVV46NJDe6imm_E_4Y9mPOt6kh0-i8vWiQjSVaT2TWRsadGONCrJ-phqrc11zxOMUNFfRIQ1lyc-NfEh-muRDK40xH2Uv2xN86OuLRIXddZbYU5LRC9hwOhsFBN1EnZCp/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="920" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGkafkn57kQi3vVV46NJDe6imm_E_4Y9mPOt6kh0-i8vWiQjSVaT2TWRsadGONCrJ-phqrc11zxOMUNFfRIQ1lyc-NfEh-muRDK40xH2Uv2xN86OuLRIXddZbYU5LRC9hwOhsFBN1EnZCp/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.40.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
Approache</h4>
Go up Maudit Combe and join the base of the base of clocher of Tacul. The route attacks on the right of the pillar. This can be reached from either aig. du Midi or Helbronner. We took the Panoramique from Midi to Helbronner, which gave us a reason to have a relaxed Italian espresso on the way home<br />
Join R0 (relay on spits), comfortable terrace, after the bergschrund and a few blocks<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHU-BXOnmQbwHBxxuqT9qco2j6h1QFWm9wivQT4GkHB23gnPVC2IvJn-3TUHoIgCLEhVUboaPR_4YHOqnN3hqVDhwz5NvO4qNfdiQjEofaVHA2IeNO24W2O_1lTUAEMC86z-iAdKkrXovg/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.32.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="685" data-original-width="519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHU-BXOnmQbwHBxxuqT9qco2j6h1QFWm9wivQT4GkHB23gnPVC2IvJn-3TUHoIgCLEhVUboaPR_4YHOqnN3hqVDhwz5NvO4qNfdiQjEofaVHA2IeNO24W2O_1lTUAEMC86z-iAdKkrXovg/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.32.58.png" width="483" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the approach...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Itinerary</h4>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QkBOBWIU4_naD_CK6QBdM6tgE5TctBO13AVy1TpsbDn8fF4rO8Nd0mIjCdV9FB5uDj90-IpanuxbeUuU7s5mAHzqn_IFjudJbBpBioh3GhHgBpywnsBc75Gtikaoi01zWToirrkHFGqB/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.07.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QkBOBWIU4_naD_CK6QBdM6tgE5TctBO13AVy1TpsbDn8fF4rO8Nd0mIjCdV9FB5uDj90-IpanuxbeUuU7s5mAHzqn_IFjudJbBpBioh3GhHgBpywnsBc75Gtikaoi01zWToirrkHFGqB/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.07.png" width="296" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">Start up some loose looking rocks up to a single spit </span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">From here slent up/rightwards below an other spit, don’t go to that one!, passing the formations more right behind a corner. Belay on spits 5b</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Up again over loose looking rocks, easy scrambling straight up and then right to the base of the big corner/dihedral. Spits 5b</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb the corner. Belay on spits 6b</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb the corner, pass the blocks and then step out to the thin vertical crack. Climb this to a spit and then climb back right, airy step, up to a belay. Short crux, 35m. Belay on spits 6c</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Giljotine pitch</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Climb some steep sections, then an airy traverse out left passing a spit and continue up just below a section of white rock. Belay on 2 spits. 6a+</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The white pitch</span></div>
<br />
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Continue up some wide cracks. Mostly on easy ground. A full pitch up to the abseils, the anchor of Empire State 6b+</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5tv0Oc15EZvz7k82juN5k2g1JWFBwkrkW3-02s1fKnMOwPS_dtuzMT6V80HI049O-SMKkHnCc65WbnTj6c5QTO7I8ET4hK50nB9BmTPDj-5pX0ZOWRqDnSjGlKwiAZmzw_HMkZerR0seX/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5tv0Oc15EZvz7k82juN5k2g1JWFBwkrkW3-02s1fKnMOwPS_dtuzMT6V80HI049O-SMKkHnCc65WbnTj6c5QTO7I8ET4hK50nB9BmTPDj-5pX0ZOWRqDnSjGlKwiAZmzw_HMkZerR0seX/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.16.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the great corner, 6b</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9H-YAfCAErK5qsS88_rtwrOB7Gk6IKjlYEgMX-oPTV_kZ03C73iE5ivaoArn1OsNBGfU2doEZqiLi4avGpsEwXnlJkRQKD5NlJEUdEGAPjtXi2fWPSUcdlv-rBWKAriPJdJzHyEex2mF/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.31.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9H-YAfCAErK5qsS88_rtwrOB7Gk6IKjlYEgMX-oPTV_kZ03C73iE5ivaoArn1OsNBGfU2doEZqiLi4avGpsEwXnlJkRQKD5NlJEUdEGAPjtXi2fWPSUcdlv-rBWKAriPJdJzHyEex2mF/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.31.png" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna following on the same</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0uqSkzUjqgKZmdO335WGMJkTsmDWzIRDUEa5MN2HAP2sVgvPEG4Wa8ylr_hqruX2vVdVQ837gVBngKWTIDHXhRMabMrtEaQPo8SwslhUJV0vOtLb4HiTE2QIfxfhARqJ0Z1RRyQHsos2/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.56.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="514" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0uqSkzUjqgKZmdO335WGMJkTsmDWzIRDUEa5MN2HAP2sVgvPEG4Wa8ylr_hqruX2vVdVQ837gVBngKWTIDHXhRMabMrtEaQPo8SwslhUJV0vOtLb4HiTE2QIfxfhARqJ0Z1RRyQHsos2/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.33.56.png" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just finishing the Giljotin pitch, second last pitch, 6a</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Equipment</h4>
<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPT0PFeGBGo9KQ4QYKk20i2wQul7Bmdb_-motgh4iEnkt9rM70zkircO1tTsz90ZGBrRpXxQWndkfSXa_UQ3bqU9T7eZ_IuAfJskuT-qxWJyMNkdelqrEq7g2ZvLJew9FDF5Th_YiFf21/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.34.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPT0PFeGBGo9KQ4QYKk20i2wQul7Bmdb_-motgh4iEnkt9rM70zkircO1tTsz90ZGBrRpXxQWndkfSXa_UQ3bqU9T7eZ_IuAfJskuT-qxWJyMNkdelqrEq7g2ZvLJew9FDF5Th_YiFf21/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.34.06.png" width="301" /></a>2x50m rope, for the rappel</div>
<div>
1 smal set of nuts</div>
<div>
Blue to Red Alien x 2</div>
<div>
#0.75-3 BD x 2</div>
<div>
#4 BD</div>
<div>
Piolet/Crampons/ice screw for the glacier</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
link <a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/784643/fr/clocher-du-tacul-il-pifferaio-di-spit" target="_blank">Camp to Camp </a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsdSPV1F7kfFmODtpqOtaQ6q5igY_Ioc78NYwverc6qnUcj4ZaBNx_0CJUwIQdVUeVCmrGHYvxTqQQ8YcdvwJvSpuigkpoj-E9AmEUariMCuH-1gCIGyG9v_KUC4XX0ybLVK09X8sHjQoD/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.34.33.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsdSPV1F7kfFmODtpqOtaQ6q5igY_Ioc78NYwverc6qnUcj4ZaBNx_0CJUwIQdVUeVCmrGHYvxTqQQ8YcdvwJvSpuigkpoj-E9AmEUariMCuH-1gCIGyG9v_KUC4XX0ybLVK09X8sHjQoD/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-17+kl.+18.34.33.png" width="478" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">// kristerjonsson.se</span></i></div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-54814027327965340712019-07-09T20:10:00.004+02:002019-07-09T20:10:56.300+02:00la Chandelle - Bonatti-Tabou<h4>
The combination of the Bonatti and Tabou routes is a logical route to the summit of the Tacul Candle. Although we talk about average and moderate difficulty, climbing and what is nice and sometimes supported. A beautiful route taking place on a superb granite, not to be missed!</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWPiGaAGOgfuPtdmNYA14jnSyZz9t2EwXQs-ttg6DHUqRBAqvMqMLaMBPtJc9X_9n5wukbGwS7bOmLxiSJtW_NaRHI9KQXnzeVC5tjOqv4_qoCTlhvJjZ0_b9sOSsxYxu1Aqbpu1QQdqcH/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="520" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWPiGaAGOgfuPtdmNYA14jnSyZz9t2EwXQs-ttg6DHUqRBAqvMqMLaMBPtJc9X_9n5wukbGwS7bOmLxiSJtW_NaRHI9KQXnzeVC5tjOqv4_qoCTlhvJjZ0_b9sOSsxYxu1Aqbpu1QQdqcH/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.08.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route marked in black dots</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Looking for an easier acclimatization route in the higher massif, a preparation for a bigger climb in the Mont Blanc massiv we chose the classic Bonatti-Tabou on Chandelle.<br />
Chandelle is easily accessed from the Helbronner lift, mostly downhill on the glacier. And if you, as we did, start from aiguille du Midi, it also include the panoramic traverse in the small 4 seat tele cabins crossing the Vallee Blanche. An experience in it self!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDOTXzBeR24U9TGs0vlP7RHhx3QB0B0o7xK8kg_BPVeLfQaNPJSVTkoKR-hGz8Xnb3THtaMmPBxZ0Zvp_Aazfba1mWP_eLNx3t3Zw_wYIzh0-mQtlSn4ChdItNoANwbMOhT7DEag5up_9/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.57.09.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDOTXzBeR24U9TGs0vlP7RHhx3QB0B0o7xK8kg_BPVeLfQaNPJSVTkoKR-hGz8Xnb3THtaMmPBxZ0Zvp_Aazfba1mWP_eLNx3t3Zw_wYIzh0-mQtlSn4ChdItNoANwbMOhT7DEag5up_9/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.57.09.png" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relaxed approach!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRqetGZpMVMEvTru3ZaugjMc8MkabzFfS3jrkpIF24OzNZJgP7D2zTWTuFvovghzMUOrDo4cKpfnVGZLRysjCfdA0FPNQ4yRODbN6hdf7UhtrNBTM9yuoECodOv2dxYnvLrDFtRCOdq9LM/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="516" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRqetGZpMVMEvTru3ZaugjMc8MkabzFfS3jrkpIF24OzNZJgP7D2zTWTuFvovghzMUOrDo4cKpfnVGZLRysjCfdA0FPNQ4yRODbN6hdf7UhtrNBTM9yuoECodOv2dxYnvLrDFtRCOdq9LM/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.21.png" width="297" /></a>After 3 weeks on canicule, the Sahara heat air flow that has been hitting most of the southern parts of Europe. With temps up to +11 degrees on the summit of Mont Blanc!! But suddenly we experienced some cooler days and standards was getting back to normal. Which meant minus celsius degres during the night and frozen snow in the mornings. Something that also makes the rock bit more stable. So we could start to look on the high alpine routes again.<br />
Taking the early bin up from Chamonix, with the nowadays regular turists that has invaded not only Chamonix. But for sure, climbers (like the real climbers and not Mont Blanc tourists and forest scramblers around Brevent) are starting to be a rear sight in town....but at least they smell, well not good (flooded with parfyme) but better.<br />
Then once at top of Midi we hike over at get into a private cabin on the Italian traverse. An impressive installation even these days!<br />
<br />
A quick espresso stop before we make the 1hour hike to the base of Chandelle. And as most of the climbs that takes a bit of effort to get to we are almost alone. Only one team infront of us, and a friendly team it turns out with to British colleagues, which makes the climbing more than just a beautiful day out on this perfect French Chamonix granit, it breaks out in a social escapade as well!!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGOjqCJ1dQH_68S8NDpT32vv976AJRn_83NV6ft094_YAvzlBB7T8necPszo8wTGDE34Uo4UGiASOlk9FeI7_XEjXbdZosUb1vYkVCyGDCQeCT-hAJF2H-QpzqRDz_-bYDDmiID9K4zyD/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGOjqCJ1dQH_68S8NDpT32vv976AJRn_83NV6ft094_YAvzlBB7T8necPszo8wTGDE34Uo4UGiASOlk9FeI7_XEjXbdZosUb1vYkVCyGDCQeCT-hAJF2H-QpzqRDz_-bYDDmiID9K4zyD/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.29.png" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first 6b pitch, short and hard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To keep this short, this route is again one of many most do classics in the Mont Blanc Massif. Established by Walter Bonatti and Roberto Gallieni 1960. Gallieni who was with the team of Bonatti on the Freney Pillar the year after, an ascent in which four people died.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv31td3YY-ggJGOkuTM0zPr6_1Hj_3lu0YT6isdLLoZ5wDfLU0bSlq3pb14yPTkpJGaIf99_CzPP37cAoPTi-6lyVuRodgd6brVXPKLmlGLIIBjPQO8TE1H3BgXjle4i4_Vx_Hp_uqaaEx/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.39.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv31td3YY-ggJGOkuTM0zPr6_1Hj_3lu0YT6isdLLoZ5wDfLU0bSlq3pb14yPTkpJGaIf99_CzPP37cAoPTi-6lyVuRodgd6brVXPKLmlGLIIBjPQO8TE1H3BgXjle4i4_Vx_Hp_uqaaEx/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.55.39.png" width="486" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna Backlund following on the same...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h4>
The Route</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhed3BttRItj5gxOKgZfksORwQXKot-IYWRiix-T_XQ5v-0O7w4fuina6jb417ctIf4uSaMyk3VhTHYarpPw0JkQp29pvwthHuS-xo1FjFHaCeWjBlAIy8MoaZJ4K649U_1uR_SdnHdEdgh/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="690" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhed3BttRItj5gxOKgZfksORwQXKot-IYWRiix-T_XQ5v-0O7w4fuina6jb417ctIf4uSaMyk3VhTHYarpPw0JkQp29pvwthHuS-xo1FjFHaCeWjBlAIy8MoaZJ4K649U_1uR_SdnHdEdgh/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.21.png" width="397" /></a>L1 5c 35 m Climb over the belay and cross left on a ledge to reach a dihedral. Climb the dihedral and come up against a large block that is bypassed to the left. R1 just above the foot of a dihedral-crack.<br />
L2 6b 20 m Refit the dihedral-crack (crack with fingers and many in situ protection). Short but intense climbing.<br />
L3 5c 40 m Start to the left of the belay (Do not engage in the beautiful crack right above the belay, White Line track) Go up to the left the dihedral largely cracked up to come up against under a little suplomb. Circumvent it on the right.<br />
L4 6a + 45 m Two options for the start: go up the dihedral above the relay or take a slight right on the slab (1 peak). Then cross to the right and go back to the easiest towards an imposing dihedral to the foot of an imposing dihedral, which is lying in the shade during the first half of the day (spits).<br />
L5 5b 10 m Short horizontal traverse on the left.<br />
L6 6b + 35 m Raise a thin flake until you come to a stop under a small overhang which is rounded to the left. Cross slightly to the left and take a walk on a slab. Climb a thin crack with delicate protection, provide small jams and Aliens for the start on the shell.<br />
L7 6a 40 m Over the Belay, wind up a system of cracks until you reach a small ledge. There, cross left with the help of a horizontal crack (forming a small ledge) to reach a chimney-dihedral (visible upper left from R6). Do not climb the chimney-dihedral which heads rightwards.<br />
Et Voila!<br />
Rappel the same route<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-tNVxR5YYGiOv1UjREutabqsFsbVjUTewxkFgo2imancVLtZWdXyNyF0Rz1MzS0ySpycergDVgsM9YAnJu_DjZu1AdxOOpbyEoC7TX6WHj8xlzQ5LJDElbFPeop7nLjPxYXJpSjn5vrJ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="517" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc-tNVxR5YYGiOv1UjREutabqsFsbVjUTewxkFgo2imancVLtZWdXyNyF0Rz1MzS0ySpycergDVgsM9YAnJu_DjZu1AdxOOpbyEoC7TX6WHj8xlzQ5LJDElbFPeop7nLjPxYXJpSjn5vrJ/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.04.png" width="476" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhLCnwIb_IZitemZqHAg5UFVQz1XSIKsk_DLsPhJnhwxdRLqJBIB8BItv1n28ABTKWmJm2bM2LS_LLSHHq_FtM7cQf9_ZCnAWW6nNSRiOkhFfwCJFLCBjvnBJ4yEcLyP-52VS_eGutkmi/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.43.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhLCnwIb_IZitemZqHAg5UFVQz1XSIKsk_DLsPhJnhwxdRLqJBIB8BItv1n28ABTKWmJm2bM2LS_LLSHHq_FtM7cQf9_ZCnAWW6nNSRiOkhFfwCJFLCBjvnBJ4yEcLyP-52VS_eGutkmi/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.43.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top pitch </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaE3iVnTGcag09pKjbwXSeHccU6X56Z1uf0aWtTJGg0J07u5AHIFzJs6DytPWzhKvfy8IRj7iqdsSRwBI-6fZ8J-oGe-4J-xvPSRoZyq2EudETlCIPkynFlJYZzpF-l6XEUFK4UrHt883/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.34.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="511" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaE3iVnTGcag09pKjbwXSeHccU6X56Z1uf0aWtTJGg0J07u5AHIFzJs6DytPWzhKvfy8IRj7iqdsSRwBI-6fZ8J-oGe-4J-xvPSRoZyq2EudETlCIPkynFlJYZzpF-l6XEUFK4UrHt883/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.34.png" width="502" /></a></div>
<br />
<h4>
Equipment</h4>
Double sets of cams, Aliens Green to Red & 0.75 to 3 Camelot's (2 x 0.75-2)<br />
A small set of small wires up to #5 DMM<br />
8 Quick draws<br />
2x50m rope (single rope and tail line)<br />
Ice axe and, if its solid frozen snow, crampons<br />
<a href="https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/56596/fr/chandelle-du-tacul-combinaison-bonatti-tabou" target="_blank">https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/56596/fr/chandelle-du-tacul-combinaison-bonatti-tabou</a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuff-8wIXnTBd9ezfPv5toFaqWntFbiHgiw5Q7vnTp9saT3d1C-cRR-TxUrNf-4nTabFicTq6siJGP3huojUGKRBG3Stb3dEMrZWs1IHlSyonNuCqL4t4GeYA3KcAKNUhW8mbMTNrLyEei/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.59.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="524" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuff-8wIXnTBd9ezfPv5toFaqWntFbiHgiw5Q7vnTp9saT3d1C-cRR-TxUrNf-4nTabFicTq6siJGP3huojUGKRBG3Stb3dEMrZWs1IHlSyonNuCqL4t4GeYA3KcAKNUhW8mbMTNrLyEei/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-07-09+kl.+19.56.59.png" width="484" /></a></div>
<br />
// alpinemadness.se<br />
<br />Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-65212165943068987072019-05-24T18:40:00.000+02:002019-05-25T09:29:24.971+02:00Minimalist Belay<h2>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"> <span style="color: #454545;">I am economical in most situations, I <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69);">don't</span> like to spend money and equipment for no obvious reasons.</span><span style="color: #454545;"> This is especially in climbing and skiing in the use of hardware. And, I do not like to carry material for nothing, it is often a moral crutch and its weight a physical handicap. In short, I like the idea of small back-packs, which are lightly packed</span></span></h2>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> For me it is a passion and a fix idea to go as light and fast as possible, reducing the points, weight and work to a safe minimum.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">This goes for all the moments that are involved in a climbing- or skiing day, from the number of QD´s, nuts and cams, length of rope and to the minimalistic way of thinking to size and numbers of slings and carbiners to the belays</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Here is a small solution that works very well which will save equipment and make the going faster:</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs9Mp65-23zurFYYzkI80FEfY89hyphenhyphenEWe6lm7Sn4K7Ut3XwPMz_Fp5koI4AnKGX93fvuT_bOMYFCGDdgbrqhCQ_KtCNt0EX-5CXnGT5RdL7X0Db7JObQHRROQqJuTCXfpyjh6HWYgRtVno7/s1600/Servoz_001.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs9Mp65-23zurFYYzkI80FEfY89hyphenhyphenEWe6lm7Sn4K7Ut3XwPMz_Fp5koI4AnKGX93fvuT_bOMYFCGDdgbrqhCQ_KtCNt0EX-5CXnGT5RdL7X0Db7JObQHRROQqJuTCXfpyjh6HWYgRtVno7/s640/Servoz_001.jpeg" width="478" /></a></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Belay point ”en minimiste”</span></h4>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Place 2 good anchor points</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Thread the lark's head strap into the top stitch and tie a single knot on the strap</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Pass the strap in the bottom point</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Clip the carabiner of the relay twice in the ring constituted by the part of the strap to pass in the point of the bottom.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Clip the part of the strap passed at the lark's head. Adjust the knot to distribute the tension on the two points. Here you are with a beautiful relay in V and Voilá!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfydyNH-dDRY-hy5Tuf_kN2hwMvD2UV2lMb1LdvYC9XgSWVKariv0N2OttaebrUN4viCZk_mgW0Dzs65j93AXx6czs9qvvzruPr80d7AtXkB_5mCAgghndDG3eB-YJYGx-tJQz_kpuuxm0/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-05-24+kl.+18.30.22.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="812" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfydyNH-dDRY-hy5Tuf_kN2hwMvD2UV2lMb1LdvYC9XgSWVKariv0N2OttaebrUN4viCZk_mgW0Dzs65j93AXx6czs9qvvzruPr80d7AtXkB_5mCAgghndDG3eB-YJYGx-tJQz_kpuuxm0/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-05-24+kl.+18.30.22.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievNleLujx0Q_AI6scfcPRJJL1DQiwz714cC4s7RLhs_kJqDyqbjuH2GxZZGtkoqGjJK4FbYsC0NXnO5wvRtWkDJ_06MHKg9PBxNpRB7HG5RHwj6dGM5JC7k8iA8cWH7uW51AhPfeaQFwY/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-05-24+kl.+18.30.34.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="836" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievNleLujx0Q_AI6scfcPRJJL1DQiwz714cC4s7RLhs_kJqDyqbjuH2GxZZGtkoqGjJK4FbYsC0NXnO5wvRtWkDJ_06MHKg9PBxNpRB7HG5RHwj6dGM5JC7k8iA8cWH7uW51AhPfeaQFwY/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-05-24+kl.+18.30.34.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0t119SyJQPyEOYrKRNEyZp7C9H5eikCWyqh90xhJ_-FPabehfiuAZ2jNIsE4vSzkcct8NMlH7TMR8J3udtfe5wl2HtzB6aMyo2rfOhJOdWuRUZoOg-vlFwKO1DZ-qjb4J4uqPUN0Uq4oW/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-05-25+kl.+09.24.26.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="164" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0t119SyJQPyEOYrKRNEyZp7C9H5eikCWyqh90xhJ_-FPabehfiuAZ2jNIsE4vSzkcct8NMlH7TMR8J3udtfe5wl2HtzB6aMyo2rfOhJOdWuRUZoOg-vlFwKO1DZ-qjb4J4uqPUN0Uq4oW/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-05-25+kl.+09.24.26.png" width="151" /></a></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Just remember:</span></h4>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">-The knot must be well adjusted so that the tension on the two points is evenly distributed.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">- Take a look and estimate the strength of your strap.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">- If the two points are at the same level and your strap is long enough: it is possible to avoid the lark's head and transform it into a double passage of the strap as on the other point.</span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Information on the resistance of a Dyneema strap passed directly into the points (jamming cable, strap, plate) </span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">For the tests I had access to a laboratory and a traction machine used to develop and certify mountain equipment. </span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><b><span style="font-family: inherit;">PS: Warning. If you do not understand or if you doubt, ask a professional or refrain from using this metod. The described technique is only self-teatched and up to you to use and judge</span></b></i></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #454545; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">// </span><b><i>Climbing is a dangerous sport that might cause death if used wrong!</i></b><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5785264445492636926.post-5193211830378468022019-04-29T18:26:00.002+02:002019-05-07T14:30:07.174+02:00Keb Lines 2019<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnTjdQeWWyWlkBMjycKp4dNdWVYQzkOlbsA8Yq5salvcD4PP7OFR4134rdiUckPQBre0wpOvFBfNq9-K-KrHJGPOaQwHyutc7PVrh9PMmZ4csvNWY-Qs5EA_quQTZVslmXQncu3xIHv1C/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-13+kl.+15.17.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="921" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnTjdQeWWyWlkBMjycKp4dNdWVYQzkOlbsA8Yq5salvcD4PP7OFR4134rdiUckPQBre0wpOvFBfNq9-K-KrHJGPOaQwHyutc7PVrh9PMmZ4csvNWY-Qs5EA_quQTZVslmXQncu3xIHv1C/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-13+kl.+15.17.35.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<h4>
<b><br /></b></h4>
<h4>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">An other winter has about to passed in the Alps. But for the Arctics it is just halfway. In the Swedish Lapland there is still a huge amount of snow. Even though the beginning of the winter was everything then great, snowing wise.</span></b></h4>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">As all over the globe the weather was way to warm and often the precipitation carried rain instead, of more normal, snow.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">That combined with heavy winds mostly destroyed the snow pack, making it hard and avalanche prone.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">But, things got lucky and just in time for our planned trip up north the weather pattern changed and we got a perfect spell of stable and good conditions for a couple of weeks. Time and snow set to do a couple of new ”Keb Lines”</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyoTBhCohNAfx7cLXYYvDVkcKlbBAVP9E2yCKmeXpSxpCKwMeq0AX8s09VK4WSAoOgLpJhl7NjY4kcK9WvY8gwhPtzSvzEiVX1vs5aVIBTt99JeVk4V5B2PG8wDw_kOarvkny9z23MjaoT/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.01.59.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="627" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyoTBhCohNAfx7cLXYYvDVkcKlbBAVP9E2yCKmeXpSxpCKwMeq0AX8s09VK4WSAoOgLpJhl7NjY4kcK9WvY8gwhPtzSvzEiVX1vs5aVIBTt99JeVk4V5B2PG8wDw_kOarvkny9z23MjaoT/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.01.59.png" width="634" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skiing with the beautiful Toulpagorni in the background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Our fist mission was to secure and put up an interesting, and new versions, of the yearly Keb Classic. A 2 day ski d´alpinism ski race that runs every year. Nicely arranged with STF Kebnekasie.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Since the beginning of the week still was a bit unstable and snowy, we had a good use of the extra day that was planned to prepare the race.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">On arrival we could even get up to the Mountain hut, due to the forced winds!</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFMg4O0fwcFZBmCKSGqgRJe5mSEbjFt6zMecrlSZ4yNoQll4A0fCP3R7paGKgsYPIeGJalwb2ymMj44yHg6Eq-BAa9251vkkpibUjmL1WSLEVoDr6CfFOB_scGan_8lIlRswraM5DaIx8C/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.00.47.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="523" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFMg4O0fwcFZBmCKSGqgRJe5mSEbjFt6zMecrlSZ4yNoQll4A0fCP3R7paGKgsYPIeGJalwb2ymMj44yHg6Eq-BAa9251vkkpibUjmL1WSLEVoDr6CfFOB_scGan_8lIlRswraM5DaIx8C/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.00.47.png" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Djärv Rännan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">
Djärv Rännan</span></span></h4>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">After 2 days of preparing the course I took the first opportunity to try one of the new lines I had scanned from the year before.</span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A +600 meter line in the center of Skartaåive, opposite the STF lodge. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">It’s easy accessed just crossing the valley and the cause of the exposed terrain I decided to boot up the whole line., which ended with a bit of climbing at the very top of the couloir, before it flattens out up to the summit. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">On return, it meant some interesting down climbing, skis on, maybe not the best for the skis but if you use tender steeps, it mostly looks worse then it is. And, many ways it safer with less risk of loosing the skis. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And, it saves a bunch of time. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">After the first exposed passages the ride down was in perfect grippy snow with some 10-20 cm pow all way down. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXv6euOkIT1qMzeSYn3zCh0_1MyamA6SOy0c9-9tTwEX5SIR22sLrATpj3VTKh0LQPlmVGlTQbzt1ySpUN2tKzRAZ1kw1PWlxqwVR7kUR37Qe5YUIcSGljcy3XRC18zXd2FbC3yAmXbaGh/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-03+kl.+09.00.44.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="1115" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXv6euOkIT1qMzeSYn3zCh0_1MyamA6SOy0c9-9tTwEX5SIR22sLrATpj3VTKh0LQPlmVGlTQbzt1ySpUN2tKzRAZ1kw1PWlxqwVR7kUR37Qe5YUIcSGljcy3XRC18zXd2FbC3yAmXbaGh/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-03+kl.+09.00.44.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper part of Djärv Rännan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b>Kebnepakte North West Hidden Couloir</b></h4>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Next day was again windy and fierce. But we desperately wanted to try out a new possible section for the upcoming race. So with a bit of luck we hoped for a clearing round midday and headed out despite the bad visibility and flat light. We could use snowmobile to the upper part of the glaciers. But driving a snowmobile in flat light isn’t a great experience even if you know the terrain well. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The national météo provider, SMHI, kept their promises and just as in the brochure the clouds started to break up and provided us with a blue sky at 12:00, just as they had predicted. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63ZRC0YDZImJYuYPS7kiKGyyDR9pAr003NJm4Q65Vqc_Wzk2utJsaxtgIEJH2zHGDGoiCRSL2CPUmOVYCqEo-1kLiCuMYMBwbadL1NVc9ODy7A60EvXYrAxAl4jMXECPkqA5i8w1qdjf8/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.08.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="925" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63ZRC0YDZImJYuYPS7kiKGyyDR9pAr003NJm4Q65Vqc_Wzk2utJsaxtgIEJH2zHGDGoiCRSL2CPUmOVYCqEo-1kLiCuMYMBwbadL1NVc9ODy7A60EvXYrAxAl4jMXECPkqA5i8w1qdjf8/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.08.02.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">So on our skis and skinning up to the col at Halspasset. Then a short scramble up the pre-fixed ropes up to Kebnepakte. With the goal to traverse the mountain and ski down towards Koupervagge, following the hidden Couloir some 300meters from the summit. A great little adventure with a bit of scrambling. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Starting the descent the wind had blown the top part of snow away, but after just a few turns we got a stunning payback with some super cool powder snow over almost 700 vertical meter. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The retour, up via Svarta Sjon and Kepnepakte Glacier</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA0U_YEePcvqXOh46N4dbrgeyrzs6J5yoIrhHm-p36Drzr-SYZ4nAWhWrqxvG8XbPUoW_vlWBxcPXGIaA87VOiE-g0XfrS-69pCkKqvH_2s8yz2sYeOZ0D3y19kKX9W_OBZcyroOpIPrBI/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.01.19.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA0U_YEePcvqXOh46N4dbrgeyrzs6J5yoIrhHm-p36Drzr-SYZ4nAWhWrqxvG8XbPUoW_vlWBxcPXGIaA87VOiE-g0XfrS-69pCkKqvH_2s8yz2sYeOZ0D3y19kKX9W_OBZcyroOpIPrBI/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.01.19.png" width="508" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skiing down to Koupervaggi via the Hidden Couloir</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4n5Z7u8e2H67YMaBVlMYKKEn7JUSvCj6H5VfUk49P6jaTp8r2dB_L_nCYTvy_FvKZGCGGIHiA5J1FcHRE6cxHAqp5WMabZegGJ-o5AOJ0-fpiUdsDBqq_0Ntwvd5ADWnSG4njeerI6759/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-06+kl.+08.31.38.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="1117" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4n5Z7u8e2H67YMaBVlMYKKEn7JUSvCj6H5VfUk49P6jaTp8r2dB_L_nCYTvy_FvKZGCGGIHiA5J1FcHRE6cxHAqp5WMabZegGJ-o5AOJ0-fpiUdsDBqq_0Ntwvd5ADWnSG4njeerI6759/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-06+kl.+08.31.38.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overlooking Bjorlings Glacier from the start of Sapmi Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<b>Sapmi Wall</b></h4>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vRi9bkBRtUTCOeWiZQf3Ri9S6pfj2ak4Y97y4LuReHhVDzJUyqFa6Rqdeq5A71OdIQvEDhuGz-SqH5XS9sY7PQC1W1uK-G_Mfm11-vPjYtSCBOM6Xqs3Zcq2EIzMknGorkjitXuDMI4W/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.10.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="422" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vRi9bkBRtUTCOeWiZQf3Ri9S6pfj2ak4Y97y4LuReHhVDzJUyqFa6Rqdeq5A71OdIQvEDhuGz-SqH5XS9sY7PQC1W1uK-G_Mfm11-vPjYtSCBOM6Xqs3Zcq2EIzMknGorkjitXuDMI4W/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.10.40.png" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exposed terrain on Sapmi Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">From the col between the peaks of Kebnekaise there are a few possible lines. One heading northwest, which I think is still un-skied, and two exposed lines going down the steep East face. This year the conditions looked perfect for the most eye catching line going direct down throw a narrow passage, which turned out to contain a bit of ice with a thin snow layer. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">And then, via a steep section above a big rock face above a vertical drop, the exit could be done via a narrow ledge/couloir down to the glacier. Unfortunately the snow pack had become a little to warm during the day, so it felt a little scary to ski full on. So I had to take a huge caution and go as light as possible on the middle section. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">But, it was a great shortcut to catch up with the participants on the first day on the race. Which after passing me on Kebnekasie I could again be ahead of them down at Bjorlings :-) </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkcsfYDcTOtMfpeHf8QS0H4sxugHR3oi_lNq4T70imowOU1g7SFCsBUfPZYIC1r480p_vGpuGovHoMDs9yQpKuTf4yJCGLsDGHl5H6en8-z-9OWWRTui1B94hE-mZB78XP5lFQgL1zdci-/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.01.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="518" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkcsfYDcTOtMfpeHf8QS0H4sxugHR3oi_lNq4T70imowOU1g7SFCsBUfPZYIC1r480p_vGpuGovHoMDs9yQpKuTf4yJCGLsDGHl5H6en8-z-9OWWRTui1B94hE-mZB78XP5lFQgL1zdci-/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.01.35.png" width="564" /></a></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<h4>
The High 3 col Route Tarfala to Nallo</h4>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKwiewEue1jaocGMOFiE4155hJz8yjqSjqVfs9uEdA9tc3FYIc7IWenGzEx6I9pLi9QidExO2a7ST1RUXearrs8KE5Wm2_MRfpR6WocxSE9fbeh0rPWW5NN0125j3yaIIlk95WME0-b4_/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.21.23.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKwiewEue1jaocGMOFiE4155hJz8yjqSjqVfs9uEdA9tc3FYIc7IWenGzEx6I9pLi9QidExO2a7ST1RUXearrs8KE5Wm2_MRfpR6WocxSE9fbeh0rPWW5NN0125j3yaIIlk95WME0-b4_/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.21.23.png" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High Jo-Jo Route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">After scanning the map and from former experiences doing the trip on skis between Tarfala and Nallo, I had thought of a possible route linking a bit more interesting route up when going on skis between these huts. Instead of the “normal” Jo-jo leden. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Starting direct up from Tarfala going over Syd Ostra Kaskasetjakka glacier, down to Kaskasevaggi. And then instead of the normal route down to the Abri at Unna Raitas we skined up higher to get the col at Knivkammen and a nice not so steep couloir down more north west to Västra Kniv glacier. Then crossing the lake (1211) and up to ski the to start with steep line going down to the niche glacier of Raitachokka glacier from point 1934 at Reaiddachokka. That gives a long nice run of almost 900vertical meters ending some 500meters below the Nallo hut. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A great skiing day just a bit longer then the normal variation. But a lot more skiing. </span></div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The High Jo-Jo Route</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotbPHdTi_WuD-OBy2pwNV4uEXHY2K9uwDRh5V9cqf2bIVx0sRO0dJu4mggddo4HIo1nEtmeOmw0KhhIR_Jz8393_amMHP5eephBXaRRm9-N8mIXIAS-PxWw5gGUeJLwKtF8oDwedXFkr3/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.21.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotbPHdTi_WuD-OBy2pwNV4uEXHY2K9uwDRh5V9cqf2bIVx0sRO0dJu4mggddo4HIo1nEtmeOmw0KhhIR_Jz8393_amMHP5eephBXaRRm9-N8mIXIAS-PxWw5gGUeJLwKtF8oDwedXFkr3/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.21.49.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZlXpGDl3n2czEDywaaJdK8RQI94Gnyg1DWp53A8qI2ww2GAuMySELKtDPmxrNQagr7w3wA-hQCb7dyQmbvAzVcJ_j3OVB4cbUoD2pKPswPVEswh2l38e2p4VotCGGHkY5jjVj0sG9-kW/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.23.00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="391" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZlXpGDl3n2czEDywaaJdK8RQI94Gnyg1DWp53A8qI2ww2GAuMySELKtDPmxrNQagr7w3wA-hQCb7dyQmbvAzVcJ_j3OVB4cbUoD2pKPswPVEswh2l38e2p4VotCGGHkY5jjVj0sG9-kW/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.23.00.png" width="468" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiuCwfvy-qJSHCEz9egxW9QQ2DKaWA4loTseTKqXXUxBqYiLS1DgfWwSbUpNWYrHldvcJ4qViPJ_2jfeRvOudyzJ4P9FYbfwOfS5N4kzzwZ8cXZ1qXuKi00lh_JoKBzL-ddnZGxdHRG9is/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.20.48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="525" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiuCwfvy-qJSHCEz9egxW9QQ2DKaWA4loTseTKqXXUxBqYiLS1DgfWwSbUpNWYrHldvcJ4qViPJ_2jfeRvOudyzJ4P9FYbfwOfS5N4kzzwZ8cXZ1qXuKi00lh_JoKBzL-ddnZGxdHRG9is/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.20.48.png" width="492" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_X5M6uu-VxqT4MHzQO2dis4DfwuBqhq-Sf32B6A1MqTDbgOulCbK4r8osnagSlV6Kx7y2UfHGqBYaNPxOzM-UazH0zfWA2IjhxeQNqeUBu9S2WShv0RDbdx5Xq_S8m_j9ThngJh42UF7n/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.21.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="519" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_X5M6uu-VxqT4MHzQO2dis4DfwuBqhq-Sf32B6A1MqTDbgOulCbK4r8osnagSlV6Kx7y2UfHGqBYaNPxOzM-UazH0zfWA2IjhxeQNqeUBu9S2WShv0RDbdx5Xq_S8m_j9ThngJh42UF7n/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.21.02.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEsk5pUj0WqAtT3c3bLfCUNE1ShLpN3CW7uUyhyRsC5FQ8w73AbVtYclJqhuIEZBB_Hd6teKDsoDRULGrPlYtRqEbyzMid4Sl7FeKawcW0UiQjy0it38x2iVpDYxF0im4-qiwEQuOPSCb/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-13+kl.+10.36.17.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="468" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEsk5pUj0WqAtT3c3bLfCUNE1ShLpN3CW7uUyhyRsC5FQ8w73AbVtYclJqhuIEZBB_Hd6teKDsoDRULGrPlYtRqEbyzMid4Sl7FeKawcW0UiQjy0it38x2iVpDYxF0im4-qiwEQuOPSCb/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-13+kl.+10.36.17.png" width="506" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h4>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">
Boost Rampen</span></h4>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica";">On the way up to Kaskasetjakka via the Syd Ostra Kaskasetjakka glacier, there is an obvious ramp of snow that ends with a vertical drop, down to the glacier. Some years higher then others, just depending on the amount of snow. This year it looked like it was in perfect mode, with some 30-40m rappel. Every year I arrange a Steep Skiing Week Kebnekaise, where I also try to include a new line for us to ski. This year a had the perfect client for this one and the optimal snowpack</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IyPV36dv20l8MVVrk6mwaEeLG7HebcRip-__ZElArN8PTXWh1p85k1_YyI_RpjephzQrs9r6CcOokk4Nxfv_oz5228VHpxLmypnRzBHOkYAJv8QiwHWdxwSmPjW0586Uk2hHaN06JPoJ/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.02.46.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="614" data-original-width="521" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IyPV36dv20l8MVVrk6mwaEeLG7HebcRip-__ZElArN8PTXWh1p85k1_YyI_RpjephzQrs9r6CcOokk4Nxfv_oz5228VHpxLmypnRzBHOkYAJv8QiwHWdxwSmPjW0586Uk2hHaN06JPoJ/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-29+kl.+18.02.46.png" width="542" /></a></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim60b_vx4AJUM8OQaEmbePsZV7Bh5y9CTyxcYY7GUvj9h7OXDOrk6HTmiLgcQFOqBcgAXD5a7rsck7UI3L7KufvbCfzfLjG305PSeWnXBYjIK3VFOP9s4BvC2ZRoKi24HIMdvyLIAHLYoj/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.23.21.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="580" data-original-width="1030" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim60b_vx4AJUM8OQaEmbePsZV7Bh5y9CTyxcYY7GUvj9h7OXDOrk6HTmiLgcQFOqBcgAXD5a7rsck7UI3L7KufvbCfzfLjG305PSeWnXBYjIK3VFOP9s4BvC2ZRoKi24HIMdvyLIAHLYoj/s640/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.23.21.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before dropping in to Boost Rampen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The route starts with a high traverse in under the cornices and then takes a 40 degree face line following the rock side on exposed no-fall terrain. Then you end up on an “Island” and a safe spot before the next section down to the rappel. I had seen that there was more ice then normal, but what is normal these days?, so I had high hopes to make an easy rappel belay from an abalakov. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6uG5CriRBALdQ-Hko0f_vOdwlEvpY3lvanMnU_I8r2uPPK8CCQ_Eb6UujXuSeHJxXST3Kfw7SZB7IxkgqvPn83TX3hndctv78k0FjzqvWbOnw9BZBgn4wNVEpkdZLurUWVJrJwpwLeZU/s1600/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.22.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6uG5CriRBALdQ-Hko0f_vOdwlEvpY3lvanMnU_I8r2uPPK8CCQ_Eb6UujXuSeHJxXST3Kfw7SZB7IxkgqvPn83TX3hndctv78k0FjzqvWbOnw9BZBgn4wNVEpkdZLurUWVJrJwpwLeZU/s400/Ska%25CC%2588rmavbild+2019-04-23+kl.+14.22.20.png" width="301" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Great views from the summit of Toulpagorni</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Down climbing a couple of meters to play it safe I could easily arrange the rappel, 35m down and to the rest of the skiing to the bottom of the S E Kaskasetjakka. Creating Boost Ramp, an other new Keb line.</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica";"> </span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Since time is never enough, the other things seen has to wait until 2020 and an other Steep Keb Week</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
//</div>
<div>
<div style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<i><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">The rope that joins together two livings as one and if linked to a stranger will soon becoming a friend</span></i></div>
</div>
Krister Jonssonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875569055080471039noreply@blogger.com0