Dec 10, 2011

Sharp thouch on the seasons first ice, one more to the list!

After two days of heavy snowing the winter has arrived for sure, finally
But I must say that after shoveling the white powder around, trying to keep the parkway open, that summer isn't to bad either. Even though it's quite a good work out, with the shovel in hand. It takes it time out of an a lady short day

So, back in the sofa again after a much indeed interesting day, I feel that the pain from today's bruising and a bit of headache isn't anything to complain about. Could have gone worse 4 sure!

Vanja on the approach, forcing the snow

After a warm up cleaning last night snow off, it was time to hit the road for a drive up to Offerdal for a bit of vertical ice. With the 4 hour daylight spell the ice up there is about perfect, with it's 20-30 meter high routes
Only to be seen if there was any to place the picks in!

Felt good to see this classic area again, a lot of snow as usual here but there hasn't been time enough for the ice to form in any thicker layers. A thin path of ice has almost formed in the central part. Looks ok enough so after scanning the start I decide to give it a sharp try
After the boulder start I sneak up over the vertical icicles avoiding to place the tools to close. Now and then I can get a good placement on the rock but on the third icicles I can't find any else then just an improvised hook behind the ice curtain. Nothing to complain about because one or two jabs with the axe could destroy the whole thing. So nice and easy, shifting hands and a gentle swing with the other axe as high as possible
No cussing way! The axe comes off! In slow motion I see what's happening. Try to make the placement with the upper free axe, now both are free, but no good. Going to take a jump, should be aiming on something the ground, uhh

-This will hurt! A seven to eight meter air tour will hurt!!

It's my last thought before getting airborne
Surrounded by snow, what happened to my hat? Every leg and arm is moving, the snow is still white, well that's a good sign?

-That was a close call. Can't do any then just laugh at the whole

touchdown area below!

After rescanning what happened, should I just hit it again?!
A second, or third thought...
Coiling the rope up, I found the hat in a bunch of snow, I limp over to the far left where I find a rope to tie in to. Getting belayed this time I lead up over this less steep part. Still with no pro cause of the thin ice, but a bit easier climbing
And then it feels a bit better to re-climb it with this time with a fix rope to clog on It's a long season
Feels like I had the "Good luck Cowboy"

And, it's all about country, so...


  1. Ser ut som häftig linje! Är det soloist du klättrar med? Vore intressant att höra din syn på användning av olika repsolosystem

  2. Här var det inte så mycket säkring Men ja, jag brukar använda Soloisten. Ska ta mig tid att skriva ihop ett "solo dokument" vid tillfälle