Gear and Techs

Some of my favourite gear on the market

  Finally, Petzl has made a pair of good crampons!


  The Irvis Hybrid from Petal is a really cleaver and solid crampon for its purpose.
For soft approach shoes like the 5-10 Tennies or with a pair of solid mountaineering boots / ski-boots.

  With its construction with aluminium heel part and steel front its light but still resistant and strong enough even for waterfall ice.
During this last winter I have used them from everything between ski-touring to steep hard ice/mixed climbing. On ski-boots to soft approach shoes.
For ski-boot use they fit really well once they are fitted for the right size. 
On softer shoes like the 5-10 Guide Tennie, its necessary to fit them more correct and precise.
Also, since the cord becomes a bit longer when it gets wet (see my previous article regarding wet ropes) it is necessary sometimes to shorten the length of the cords.
Or, as I found out just twist it under the shoe.


It comes with a neat clean little bag to be kept in.
But you will probably need a strong tool to change the toe part, its nothing easily done just like that.
Overall, a really good product from Petzl and a multipurpose crampon for the whole mountain.
Weight 540gr with anti boots
 




















Two new products from CAMP


Matik är en riktigt smart repbroms som ger en kontrollerad och säker firning och säkring. Vid säkring håller du som vanligt en hand på repet på bromsens bägge sidor och vid nedfirning håller du en hand på den passiva repänden medan du lungt och kontrollerat firar ner dig genom att hålla ned spaken. 
Vid allt för snabb repmatning låser sig systemet tack vare sin inbyggda Anti Panic-funktion. Det är en ovärderlig funktion som kan rädda liv i det fall du eller din säkrare tappar greppet om repet. Bromsen låser upp sig igen när du matar in några cm rep åt andra hållet. 
Matiks smarta konstruktion gör att det är omöjligt att klippa in en karbin i bromsen när den inte är helt stängd och det vida hålet möjliggör full karbin-rotation. Repbromsen har en skönsam och gradvis bitfunktion som ger ett dynamiskt fall samtidigt som det reducerar påfrestningen på repet och på ankaret. 
- Generöst karbinhål- Gradvis bitfunktionAnti-Panic-system låser bromsen vid för snabb repmatning- Ger en jämn och mjuk nedfirning- I princip omöjlig att klippa in fel- Passar (dynamiska) enkelrep med en diameter på på 8.6-10,2 mm- Enkelt att sätta in och byta ut repet- Godkänt enl CE och UIAA 
Vikt: 276 g




Turbo Chest är en tandad repklämma för dig som klättrar på statiska och fasta rep. Tack vare inkopplingshålets placering och utformning hålls klämman på plats mot bröstet under klättring. Det övre hålet tillåter koppling av en axelslinga för fixering. Klämman har en dragögla för enkel öppning av klämman. 
Tack vare sina dubbla rullblock låter den repet glida smidigt och kontrollerat genom systemet när du klättrar uppåt. Så fort du stannar upp, eller vid ett kraftigt ryck, som vid ett fall, biter sig klämmans tänder fast i repet och du sitter säker där du är. 
- Enkel repklämma för klättring på statiska rep
- Passar rep med en diameter på mellan 8 och 13 mm
- Kan även användas som pulley vid spelbygge (med en last på max 50 kg)
- Rullblock tillåter smidig rörelse både uppåt och i sidled 
Vikt: 110 gProduktnummer: 457543


Repklämma för bröstinkoppling vid klättring på rep 
Årsmodell: 2016

The Back side sortiment from K2
This combined shovel/ice axe is actually a really good tool from K2. It has a solid shovel that can be used as an snow anchor and to help build an emergency sled. (even though all of us that has tried to build one and transport a person on that kind of installation now it is not easy)
The ice axe part fits really well and the whole construction gives a solid feeling. 
K2 Back Side Rescue Shovel

ATK Race
One of the best touring bindings on the market, ATK
Take a look on the ultra light EVO world cup and the Raider 14.
Pin bindings that takes you to the top and safe back down





The Dragonfly from Blue Ice is yet an other pack that goes under "Must Have"
It is a very light and comfortable sack that packs and disappears into its own pocket!
Ultralight and versatile backpack that will follow you everywhere from short hikes to long trad climbing routes.

A 42€ well invested piece!


Fitwell shoes - Designed out from "ONESport"
The story of Fitwell and its founder, Giuliano Grotto, began in 1979. Initially called ONESport, the company stood out immediately in the shoe market by offering the 8000, the first boot designed specifically for expeditions at high altitude
During the 90s, ONESport underwent a transition culminating in a partnership with a French group that acquired the brand. Founder Giuliano Grotto decided to form a new company called Fitwell
The most important strength of Fitwell is undoubtedly the production of the boot, which is made entirely in Pederobba (TV). The will to produce all MADE IN ITALY is  Fitwell’s response to the challenge of the mountain footwear market,  the footwear is handmade and highly specialized

The Big Wall is designed for approach and technical mountaineering with a tight and technical fit, but still very comfortable. Thanks to the Vibram sole Ultragrip Mulaz allows you to perform, Vibram sole ULTRAGRIP Mulaz EVO + EVA, it perform well for a day of easier climbing, cracks and slabs
Crack climbing in comfy shoes

It has become a highly appreciated favorit for a day out in the mountains on rock, snow and easy ice
The EVENT fabric also keeps the feet dry even in wet snow. Used together with an extra sole and gaiters
At this time it is possible to order any of the Fitwell products direct from Blue-ice company


Blue Ice Koala Rope bag



Koala rope bag features a large tarp, two separate pockets for personal items, and a variety of carrying possibilities. Tighten the straps of the bag to compress the rope so you can carry it in your pack, or loosen the same straps and carry the bag by hand or over the shoulder. You can even carry the bag as a backpack, freeing up your hands if you need to scramble from one part of the crag to another. The aluminum hooks used to secure the bag’s straps are easy to handle and virtually indestructible.
Just a great bag that also goes nice on the beach or the shopping center with its nice clean design and only 39€
Link Blue Ice

















Petzl Lim'ice 
Has made a new great tool for sharpening the ice screws, the Lim'ice Ice Screw Sharpener


As pitons, nuts and cam devices more or less stay for ever, our ice screws would be the most delicate piece of gear in our equipment list. A well used nut is still easy to place but an unsharp ices crew on vertical ice…not so fun!




I have tried and used the Lim´ice for most of my ice screws and on different brands as Grivel, BD, Cassin and even on odd ones as Stubai and some old Russian titanium screws. Works fine on most of them (the Russian one with less teethes didn’t match the diameter so didn’t work) and they are like new after a couple of minutes work
The file (replaceable and reversible) takes a lot of metal off very quickly. 
So you need to work gentle with it
Grivel, BD, Cassin, works on them all

I must say that he Lim’ice gets screws sharper than I’ve ever been able to with a vice and different types of files, in less time
This device is a plastic housing for a small file that locks the ice screw into one of two separate slots to sharpen both edges of the dull tooth, effectively merging the vice and the files into one lightweight unit (162 grams). The Lim’ice only sharpens the teeth and cannot be used to sharpen damaged threads
It might not match the angels of all different brands, but it for sure makes the work easier and better then for most with a plain file
For BD, Petzl and Grivel it is very useful as they are more or less the same diameter 
A well invested piece and very easy to use!



EDELRID - Mega jul
Edelrid Mega jul - Belay device


An new designed belay and rappel device from Edelrid, which has some other clever hardware as well
It takes a while to get used to but once done it is a very good piece to work with. 
Easy to pull in the rope on belay as well as feeding it out if needed. And used with the right diameter of cord it also self locks on rappelling 







  • For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling
  • Very lightweight construction
  • High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls
  • Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner
  • Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the “open” position with the thumb
  • Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes                                                                                                         And only 65gr!  And of course there is an ”Micro Jul” as well for thinner ropes
    Link to Ederid How to use
    Where to Buy, L-G Johansson Klatter och hogfjall

    Grivel- Sigma twin gate

    Grivel have revolutionised the world of carabiners with the advent of the Twin Gate system.  This new design improves carabiner saftey, massivley, while making them quicker and easier to use than a classic screw gate they replace.  
    The Sigma Twingate is a classic offset carabiner for to be used in place of a normal snap link or wherever you want to add extra security like on your cams, hexes or on your last quick draw before a crux.  
    The Omega twin gate has the form of a classic HMS
    Sigma 
    Weight 57gr
    Gate opening 23mm
    Omega
    Weight 79gr
    Gate opening 29mm



    To see this new concept in action click here


    Got new Boots for the Winter? Its time do the MOLDING OF YOUR INNERBOOTS!

    Its quite a lot of work to get your inner liners fitted, but well worth the effort 4 sure!
    And, accually when you get into it, it´s not that bad.
    What you need
    Owen, some "fingersocks", "sportstape", thin outer sock for the liner and some patience!
    First. I recommend to use a "hot air owen"
    1 Put in on 100°C, at the most. Better to low than the opposite 
    2 Prepare your shell
    3 Prepare your feets. I use a thin "fingersock" and some tape between the toes to get some extra space for warmer feets
    4 Put the inners in the owen, about 5-10 min, keep an eye on them and when they get a bit bulky they are done
    5 I recommend the use of a better innersole to get more stable and comfort. Put that in the liner after heating. Pull on the liner. Pull the thin sock over the liner. Go into the shell

    Make sure to get your heel down!!! And pull up the liner, 1-3 times and push the heel/shoe on the floor to make it fit prop.
    6 Tighten the shoe just a bit, the harder you tighten the more space in the shoe, and maybe more woobly to ski in...
    7 Pull up the liner once more
    8 Walk around a bit, 10-15 min until the liner has cooled down
    9 Done!
    You might need to do this 1-3 times before you get it right and comfortable
    Good Luck!!


    Maintenance routines and use techniques
    Despite their minimalist appearance, Pin bindings have proved to be one of the most reliable alpine touring bindings available. Tens of thousands are in use worldwide — they’ve served as reliable steeds for everything from Mount Everest descents to record breaking randonnee racing. Even so, every machine made by man eventually wears out or breaks.

    A few minor maintenance routines and use techniques will prevent most problems with Pin bindings. If you have high mileage bindings, GENTLY tighten the screws holding the top plate, and in the case of the Comfort do the same to the screws holding the volcano. The thimble bushing in all Dynafit bindings should be lubricated and checked for wear every year or so. As mentioned above, you get to this by removing the lateral release spring cap (again, be careful not to cross thread the cap when you replace). Be aware of corrosion; when done with a trip store your skis in a place where the binding can quickly dry rather than sitting there damp. Avoid getting road salt into the binding (as from a rooftop rack or skiing a roadside plow berm). If you do get salt into the binding at the least wash them with fresh water. As for technique: When rotating the binding with a ski pole do so with care — it should flip between positions with very little force. If you use ski brakes, squeeze the brake closed with your hand when rotating the heel unit from alpine mode to touring mode, as the upward force of the brake retractor is harsh on the binding.
    Another important item regarding backcountry skiing binding longevity: Quite a few people have told me that instead of carefully setting their release tension, they just dial it up to maximum and don’t look back. Avoid cranking your release settings to the max unless absolutely necessary. A binding skied with a DIN of around 7 or 8 will release before placing much stress on itself. Crank it to 10 and the binding has to absorb an immense amount of force to effect a release. For that matter, your joint tissue might do better with some care about release settings — do you really want to add the POP sound of an ACL injury to the day’s soundtrack? 
    Dynafit bindings in particular have a smooth reliable release problem, so try using a DIN setting that’s not in the stratosphere. (Tip: some skiers will find they tend to pre-release more in upward (vertical) release than to the side. In this case dial up your vertical release setting a bit, but leave the lateral alone.)
    Same goes for using the touring release lock while in downhill mode. While this might be wise while extreme skiing in fall-you-die terrain, it’s most often unwise because you’ve effectively locked out your safety release in the event of a fall or avalanche ride. Not to mention the stress placed on the binding toe unit in such situations, as without safety release something will have to give.
    Lastly, if you’re a large person and backcountry ski aggressively, I don’t recommend the use of Dynafit as an alternativ for an alpine style binding jumping of cliffs. Modern Pin bindings are tough, but not as tough in alpine mode as an alpine binding. Buth though enough for most of us!

    I have been using this kinds of bindings that have seen several hundreds of days use over years and are still going strong. Let’s hear your story — failure or success. 

    Comments on!



    By the way
    Have a look at the the link below concerning Salomon boots and the tech fitting they use for Dynafit and ATK bindings

    http://www.wildsnow.com/2888/salomon-quest-tech-fittings-failure/

    Dynafits pateent on "standard inserts" has expired which means that some other brands have stardet to make boots without using Dynafit manufactured inserts.
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