Nov 13, 2012

A wall of fullness

Plénitude...

Picture from Topo le Vallée l' Arve
A long way to fullness and le paroi de les Vuardes

After a looongg day driving to get us to the village magnific of Presles, we could hardly find our way out because of all the fog! The walls was more than just wet so it wasnt to difficult to change planes. And since the distance over to Tain l'hermitage and it's great wine yards isn't that great, well let's go...

Hard to reckomend something here but don't miss chapoutier, www.chapoutier.com. And Jaboulet. Their cuvée Gigondas is trés magnific

But we still had some weather mapping to do...much later in the evening the van finally rolled into Vallée l' Arve, again! Since we had some couple of drivinghours to find out new advanced planes the deal was now to head for les Vuardes and it's multi pitch routes. Not a bad choise, I can think of a lot of worse places to spend an afternoon. The route choise fell on a 3* route on the rightist side, a 8 pitches 6c. Fair enough! Well, the routes here are a bit low in the grades, read undergraded, or maybe I'm just a bit to short. Some of the hardest 6b pitches I ever tried is on this walls but anyhow the rock is superb and the vuiews excellent.

Anna on pitch one of Plénitude
 

A steep drive up to Romme-sur-Cluse is included with an 1hour plus approach, great to digestif the breakfast!

A country ain't a country without an airliner and a brewery (Frank Zappa) and a climb ain't a climb without a Chimney (Krister)
 

Le vues, magnific!?
 

Pitch three

Very airy,..,
 

Le grand Massif, vuiew over Fleine and dome du Miage, magic
 

No, it ain't my skalp, it's grass. It is grass!

Summiting a great route after a great day on le vertical. Time for a beer or two and some gnocchis and that rainy wine stuff

You need

50 m rope, 7-8 QD, a 60cm sling and 2 free biners

The route was rebolted 1997 with 10mm bolts, but there are still some 8 and 10mm from the first ascent 1985. But good equipped in general with good belay stations. A three star route out of five

// working hard all week putting beer on the table

 

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