Sep 8, 2013

L'eau rance d'Arabie - 6b/UIAA VII, 250m

L'eau rance d'Arabie - 6b/UIAA VII, 250m

As said before, the approach to Blaitiere is most easy and well worth the effort of its 1 1/2h walk. This late in the season it's not even necessary with crampons or even a piolet.

Nice to have, le piolet, but not necessary at the moment. But things change...


One the walls best and to its grade persistant route on the red pillar is told to be "L'eau". So, we just had to climb it!

Once again, the slab climbing in Chamonix is hard like in Hard! A crack 6b isn't even close to what a slab 6b will give you, in my opinion at least...

The first pitch has a crack though, but the moves are still closer to slab and pure friction. But very good protected, actually the route it self is a bit over protected with bolts, still in my opinion...

Pitch one, 6b! Anna Backlund over gravity

Every single pitch has enjoyable climbing and its not until the last one on the original route that it's possible to relax.


The line is very obvious except on the third pitch wich follows some flakes but instead of continue up the flakes and cracks the route falls back to the left and finish over again some slabs, just aim for the bolted anchor. All which are perfect the whole way.


Climbing L'eau gives everything from slab to finger cracks and one the second last pitch even a great off width, have no#4 Camalot ready, or bigger...

Sadly it's places a totally unnecessary bolt at the top though

Second last pitch on L'eau, a little offwidth amusement drôle


The summit is very obvious and then it's just to rappel back mo or less the same way

Early morning at le lac


You need

2x50m rope, or rappel line

Small set of mid size cablés

Set of cams Green-Red Alien, 0.75-4 Camalot


Route 119


More info on camp to camp


//Hellre skapa rykten än att bara sprida dem...


No comments:

Post a Comment