Mar 22, 2014

Mixed up north and south face of aiguille Midi - the perfect summit route tour!

Aig Midi "Le Fil a Plombe - "Voie Rebuffat/Baquet" Face sud Cosmiques

Geared up for an old school climb...?

With a bit of imagination and fantasy there is a whole bunch of options for everything. And finding a classic combination of mixed and pure rock could be one of them?!
The options of climbs from plan du Aguilles in Cham is of course over the limit. But to make use choisir the obvious "le fil a plombe" makes a superb one. And a route that is in perfect nick at the moment. 
Approached from plan de l ´Aiguille and Glaicer des Pèlerins, a 1 1/2h marche a pied….and then a 700mts climb at M4/TD-
Fil a Plombe M4/TD- 700mts, the thin strike of ice to the left of the big seracs

The start is very forward, specially at this time since the sun has put the snow base at its best conditions for a foot approach, nacking hard neige! And same for the first pitches up the snow couloir all the way to the bottom of the crux of the route. 
A 50m 80-85degree ice section which I guess has sent the name of the route. And ce moment…is a little…dèlicate…! Mais bonne!
Off course we didn't make the first bin up to Plan, but since the plan was to bivvy at ref. Cosmiques there was no rush…and with an other gang teams of 4, the risk of getting up to the Compagnies CMB last retour was long gone anyhow
First things first, pitch 1 or something similar… easy warm up terrain

After a peaceful approach we tied in up the glacier Pelerins and en route changed from one to two axes as the cheminèe got steeper, until sat put at the crux pitch. Which was loaded with people, but not so much ice.
Still, enough to hook one self up on. Like a drummer on a beaux minces, just light handed. And a good way of saving time of placing ice screws, since it felt useless, more decoration sort of...
Crux pitch of Fil a Plombe, a drummer...

The "le Fil" is actually a very nice climb, its a reason for its busy time!
Easy approach, no objective dangers and a nice sortie up the traverse the plan to Midi. And with the conditions given to us; sun, zero wind and nice climbers around, juste voila!
Second crux pitch on le Fil...

Finally up the last bit of snowcouloir we got the wind though! So one hand on the ice axe and one on top of the hat to keep it in place, we went wobbling back the ridge towards the refuge and a well deserved dinner, hoppla 

High and happy…just pure joy!

Last bit up to the ridge…just a trip back "home"


Ref. Cosmiques. Which as always serves the most great dinners and the home baked bread makes the breakfast tip top!
So the next morning wasn't just sunny, it was a happy stomach as well. Prepared to work it self up the granite face of Cosmique face sud
Ref. Cosmiques, so much more then just great food…le belle vuie!

Crampons changed to rock shoes, axes to chalk bag and ices crews to jamgloves. A great journey continues towards the summit of Midi. 
And just the fact that monsieur´s Rebuffat and Maurice Baquet climbed this route 1956! But Gaston, he wasn't known for not being a hard passionate grimpeur. So there is no surprise that the grade is HARD at its given 6a/TD, et oui!
Cosmiques face sud, Rebuffat/Baquet voie

It is a un bonne ballade just ignore the grading, its just a number and the retour down back to Chamonix is spectacular as well as always with the CMB Télépherique. THX ´s for the ride back down 
Lars fighting gravity, doing well!

Free basing on Voie Rebuffat/Baquet, alternative variant

Lars fighting gravity, doing well!

le Fil a Plombe; 50m rope, some small/mid size camalotes, a few stoppers and 2-6 ice screws
Rebuffat/Baquet; 50m rope, Camalots 0.4-2.0, a few mid size stoppers and 8 QD´s

Details at 

// L'aventura è dentro di noi (Walter Bonatti)

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