Oct 29, 2014

Sunshine and Whiskey, 5.10c R

Red Rocks & Zion

Wild wilderness Sandstone climbing as i the big S's: Sun, Sand, Snakes and Sweat!


First of all, you will need a pair of comfy pair of shoes. Someone tell me just WHY, have Scarpa stopped making these great shoes? the Marathons role'ed the world, actually rocked it!

Even the color is there...



Sunshine &Whiskey 5.10cR, två repl*** new route at Ginger Buttress, Red Rocks

Great Juniper wall towers, Ginger Buttress


Didn't think it was possible to find. But an off route climb became a new line up the vertical slabs at Ginger buttress, Juniper canyon

My plan was to climb the 2star rout of Power Failure. A plan that came to a fact since the original route planned was occupied by a traditional team of climbers...say no more...change of planes. And since I was the late one I made it to the base of P F and raced up with the pro I carried with just in case it showed out that I was just that...LATE!


A quick look in the topo, 3 straight on pitches, up and a leftward move a bit higher, passing a couple of bolts on the way. Well, could it be more wrong?!

"As I found the told 5.8 pitch was unreasonable ruff and not even the anchors showed up. When finally the crack started to fade out it started to come serious!

Top of pitch 3, moving in tithe anchor of Power Failure

A desperate traverse out left ended in a shallow corner. Dead end!

Back to the crack and nothing else to do then make a belay, rap down and clean. And, realizing that the original pitch went rightwards. Hoppla!!

A bunch of mind making the sharp end headed upwards from the belay, 50m up.

Two good pieces in the crack and then a full 20m run out over close to vertical slabs...to a fixed bolted belay on Power Failure"

1. 5.10b Same start as Power Failure but continue up the crack which fades out. Belay just at/below the top of the crack. One nut in place

2. 5.10cR Place a good pro high up in the crack and continue up the slab on small holds. Loong run out, expect injury if you fall, some 20m runout.

Belay at top of pitch 2 of Power Failure


//Between long winters, there is short summers...


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