Aug 11, 2015

Highball Boulder week-end

   Highball Boulder week-end

Bränna Rock wall - viewed from the road

A couple of weeks of work up in the area around Kebnekaise and then together with a friend I had planned 5 days of climbing on the Norwegian side of the border. The goal was a wall up in the mountains south of Narvik. But as often in this oil rich country (which suddenly isn’t worth that much money anymore by the way, other story) our planes was killed by rain.
So an improvised idea was born, fishing and biking. Well that is good fun as well but after a couple of days…well it gets a little bit boring. Specially when the local inhabitants, MOSKITOS, do their best to dry you out.

"Truck ain´t Stuck" 7b

  An afternoon run more or less plan less suddenly brought my attention, some nice looking…granit walls some 20m from the dirt road brought me to an halt. I could direct at spot figure out 2 possibly lines, just some heavy duty work with the manche à balai aka broomstick. A lot of work actually!

Said an done. Just finished the course a pied, a fresh cup of coffee. And equipped with a broom and wire brush I headed back to the wood-wall, quickly approached on my Enduro bike. A great approach device in the Swedish inland on its most dirty roads. Suddenly that part is more then fun as well!

  The brooming in these part of the world often means more then just a little nettoyage, it means woodcutting close to performing a cutting area, aka ”karlhygge"
But after a couple of hours intensive work I had cleaned up three nice lines. And just to make things right I had to try the first spotted crack line first, onsight and solo. A perfect finger roof crack heading up a big flake system that angels out 3 meter up. Still a little wet on the first foot steps, but the jams are perfect. Sits like a vise.

"At the Tailgate" 7a+

In a good mood after the first one I go direct on the next one, a big fist crack system which is perfect for practising hand jams but that holds crimp on the sides. A nice relaxed 5c, ”Handfast”

  The 3rd route is a little more complicated, with a number of reachy catch moves at the top. Since the wall is 10m plus I take a practise first on rope, to get the frekvens and even learn if its possible. Falling on the last moves is not on the map! 

  A couple of rain drops quickly perform into a rain shower and the moustiques gets even more angry and intensive, time to retreat back home. But before leaving I had visualised 2 more lines…

Next morning, sunny as ever again. Back on the bike and back to the projects and kick starting the whisk.
Less work then on the previous ones I soon has 2 new ballads ready to go.
Turns out to be a little more difficult but the first one; ”Truck ain´t Stuck” 7b+, has the crux at the start. A crimp to a crispier crimp up to a long catch to a slope. Once that is in the bucket, the rest is less desperate. A couple of tries on the fist bad foot holds and the some more work with the wire brush followed by a bad catch…next try…its there. Just hurst to much to miss it I guess!

"At the Tailgate" 7a+ 

  Last line in the project show, the slab arete. Steep and intensive on smal holds that gets smaller and further away the higher up. Well obviously since it some 12-13m high I take the advantage to try it out with a rope first and learning the initial moves as well as getting an idea of which holds that need more cleaning.
Finding the crux just before the top, a long desperate catch up to a micro slope. Followed by the next and a smooth foot change to crimp and an other slope...
But as often in this business, my Vapour V keeps me going. If there is just any, they will stick to it!
Realising that this will not be a high frequent highball boulder, same here, falling is not an option. I realise that this must have a bolt or three/four and go as a sport climb…."The Return of the the Horseman" 7c/c+

  In the end, a productive week-end. 5 new routes between 5c to 7c/7c+ 

Routes from left to right - Kickback wall:
Handfast” 5c
”Truck ain´t Stuck” 7b
”At the Tailgate” 7a+
”The Return of the Horseman” 7c/7c+
”Young at Heart” 6b+

Nyliden Västra, Nyliden.
Follow the dirt road towards west going trough the village.
After a couple of kilometers, when you have passed the last houses, take the 3rd road to the right.
Follow this an other couple of km. The cliff is to be found just above the dirt road up to the right, can’t miss it.
GPS N63 44.811´E018 25.799´

/ Happily broke but not broken

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