Dec 3, 2015

Monkey Fingers - Zion Utah

Monkey Fingers and the Silver Back - two Zion Classic´s

There is a couple of ”best things” regarding Zion Utah.
1, its quiet and slow with other climbers
2, the numbers of regular ”tourists” are low and quiet
3, the approaches are everything that long compared to other Big Wall areas
4, the climbing is just awesome

  The canyon holds just as many great escapades and good quality crack lines up the navajo sandstone that for every route I climb I find 2 new ones. 
One of the most obvious ones is Monkey Finger and the Silverback at Sinawava. The far end in the Canyon. 
With a 5 min approach it one of the most ”get to do” lines in the whole canyon.

Graded 5.12b it sure holds its grade. 
Monkey finger pitch is everything then easy, at lest if your fingers isn’t ”rattly” and good on finger and ringlocks. 
Even the first pitch, a 5.6 scramble is a bit of wake up as it is often cowered with sand and a bit humid. 
Not really a pith for the route in fact but it just has to be overcome. 

  It is not many places around that you can arrive around 11 a clock at the car park, walk the 5 minutes to the base of the route and with out fuss start to climb 3-star route? With out taking any considerations regarding other parties. I mean, whats the odds about that!?
But at this case it seams to be the standard.

the 5.11 roof crux at Monkey Fingers, easier then it looks

the Monkey Finger pitch it self
the second last pitch of "Monkey Fingers" passing a couple of interesting but well places bolts

Anna on top of the somewhat loose Chimney pitch on top of Monkey Fingers

  The Monkey neighbor "Silverback" an other 5.12 route just to its left is almost as just a perfect route. But even more varied as well as a little bit harder and more full on. Which might be the reason why its not climbed and frequented just at Monkey Fingers. The first pitch of the Silverback is an treblous off-with /chimney that leave you untouched. The third pitch
is a huge fight and just continue upwards...
the great Chimney pitch on the Silverback
the Dusty Cowboy pitch, 3rd pitch of the Silverback

Anna fighting gravity on "the Silverback"

  Regarding the pitches/rope lenghts there is not much to say. The climbing is solid, good pro all the way except the last or twp last pitches. The route finding is just obvious. When you are up…well your up.

The belays are in place as well as the rap anchors. 

the Silver Back (left line) Monkey Fingers (right line)

Equipment - Monkey finger
2x50m rope
2 set of cams 0.33-#4, extra 0.33-#1 useful
5-6 QD´s
The last pitch, make a short traverse out right, there is an obvious chimney installation. This pitch is a bit of adventure, great climbing for what it is but could as well stay avoided. In quality matters, but should be climbed in adventure cause.
Descent, rappel the route

Equipment - The Silverback
2x50m rope
2 set of cams 0.33-#5, extra 0.75-#3 useful
5-8 QD´s
Starts with a little sandy slope up to a less sandy chimney.
Second pitch is a 25m 5.7 over big features.
For the 3rd pitch make a 15m traverse left. From here it is often sandy, but very good climbing.
Descent, rappel the route (from the traverse ledge it is possible to continue straight down the wall to an other rap anchor.

//Je vu le peurs...a perte au pire. Il efface me pas..

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