Les Tropiques - Maladiere

 

Maladiere in the Valléé de l'Arve

A superb crag thanks to its airy climbing on numerous long routes on generally excellent, well-featured, and grippy limestone. The atmosphere is heightened by the rappel access, which is particularly steep if you approach from Les Tropiques. Sun shines from mid-morning (earlier on Divine Comedy and Cassonade, later to the right of Vade Retro Satanas) until late in the day, even in winter. The cliff dries quickly, except for a few rare seepages, and some routes dry very quickly after rain: Cassonade exit via Gillopettro, Indiana Jaune, Le Temple du Soleil, Cobra-Cabana, Noli Me Tangere, also Vade Retro and No Angel with sun on the first pitch. 

There is a possible "rescue" route to ascend in case of a failed attempt on Eclipse at Noli Me Tangere: reach the large cave of Dante's Inferno, descend directly below it, then to the right, and ascend below the Petite Maladière (beware: steep grassy slopes)

The rock wall is one of the best in the valley for multi pitch sport climbing considering the easy approach. My favorit routes are Indiana Jaune, Vade Retro and Les Tropiques, which now is re-equipped with a fixed stainless steel bolts in 2018. Pitch 3 is a bit trilled bolted, easy to miss the 4th to 5th bolt. It's a no fall zone sort of...

Approach for Les Tropiques

les Tropiques

Take D6, the parking is on the left just after passing la Frasse village. Follow the trail uphill towards "Pointe de Chevran". At the first fork, take the left-hand trail towards "Saint-Jean". Always stay on the uphill trail. After about 20 minutes, you'll reach a fork where the trail is almost level. Continue to the left. At the next fork, take the left-hand trail (yellow arrow painted on a tree)

The path climbs a little further and then descends. Look for a wood sign with Tropiques on it The rappels are located on a ledge very close to the trail, some 15m

Heads up for the second rappel which really need no less than 50m ropes! Otherwise the rappels are straight and easy pull on the ropes and you end up at the very start of Tropiques

(30 minutes approach +/-)

Route

L1 6a+ 35m Pitch ascending left, typical slab with a small crimp in the first part. Some fragile rock in the small roof.

L2 5a 30m Pitch traversing left, passing a bulge that is easier to the left of the bolts. Finish on the ledge, watch out for loose rock.

L3 6a+ 40m Superb pitch, climb the obvious dihedral then traverse under a roof to the left to reach the crack.

L4 4b A short pitch of 15m, traverse right a little, obvious sort of. Belay at some small trees.

L5 A0 / 6a or 7c free. 15m First part traverses left to a good ledge, then joins the A0 section which is easily passed on 5 bolts, after the last bolt a slab move with good handholds to reach the belay above the tree.                                                                                                                                              

 

L6 6a+ 30m Pitch ascending left with a nice crack section.

L7 6b 35m Beautiful pitch, still ascending, with several delicate moves and an awkward rest, finishing in grass to reach the ledge. 

 

L8 2 10m Traverse right on the ledge to reach the last pitch of "L'Écho des Savanes" (Echo of the Savannahs). The original 5a finish is abandoned.

 L9 5c+ 25m Average rock in the second part; be sure to move right after the bolt in the wall.  A small slab above leads to the top.

 

Equipment

2x50m ropes, 14 QD's, some extra slings for the belays

Route history

Michel Piola & Pascal Strappazzon in 1991

Re-equipped with a fixed stainless steel bolt by Michel Piola in 2018 with route modifications 

Arrow showing the rappel

The rappel anchor