El Capitan West Face

West Face on El Capitan. A brilliant route over 19 pitches. But suited on the far end of the wall being hit with little sun and a little more adventurous to get to. And since it do not even a spectacular name that might also be a reason that it has much less traffic than it much more famous naighbours

View over the Valley of Yosemite from the top of El Capitan

Yosemite and El Capitan must be said to be one of the most famous big walls in the world. It's dramatic face is perfect suited in Yosemite valley compared to much bigger walls like the once in Ak-Su in Kyrgistan which is way harder to approach.
A hike up to the bace of el Cap to get to routes as the Nose is an easy stroll over a couple of minutes.
Which also means that it seems a big number of people trying to ascend routes like the Nose, even if they don't have anything to do there. Meaning you can be hooked up behind a number of teams in a line of just waiting.
But there is a couple of routes which are less known and harder to get to, like the West Face on el Cap.
A brilliant route over 19 pitches. But suited on the far end of the wall being hit with little sun and a little more adventurous to get to with not even a spectacular name it sees much less traffic. The climbing is typical for the area, full on with most of everything. But always well protected, most of the time at least. You should be stabile at the grade and to finish the route in a day, including the 2hour descent back to valley, you have to be quite quick.

Anna on the approach toward el Cap West Face

 The hike up to the base and the start of the route is not as bad as you might think to start with. There is an ok foot path which takes you past all the much more known routes up hill. And after passing Lurking Fear there is a little more fixed ropes and some boulders to by pass. And once at the start, behind a big boulder on a nice platform, the climbing it self seems just impossible up what lookalike a blank wall with no protection. But just take a closer look and a couple of bolts will appear higher up and when you finally start to accually climb natural places for placing pro will start to appear. And once over the first pitch the rest is much more obvious. Just be prepared that the first one looks impassible!

"Sending" one of the boulders on the West Face approach

"sitting back home in my sofa scanning my topos my eyes soon focused on El Cap and the West Face. We had since before of course talked about the much more famous routes as Rostrum and Astroman and already decided that those had to be on the list of routes we just should try out. But as always the planning is one thing and actually performing is something else, if not just because of the potentials of all different cases on the way that might appear to stand in the way and cause trouble.

The First pitch on El Cap West Face/photo Alpinemadness arkiv

 And to top things to the limit this year we had the el Niño effect, with a weather that was playing hard on us. After a couple of good climbs out of the crowds up at Tuolumne we rolled down to the valley happy to be staying at "the Pines Campground". A camping that we soon found out to be one of the worst places ever that we had been staying at. Surrounded by RV's with its big smelly diesel engines and noisy people. Together with the smoke from all the Forrest and campground fires doing its best to make things insupportable.

But the weather was typical Californian, sunny and dry, so we could focus on our main goal, climbing. After packing up the packs we stored the food away in one of all the bear boxes and drove to the melonée. Parked the car and started the hike up towards El Cap. Finding the way up was as easy as we thought and soon we stood at the base of the climb. But where was it? The only thing I saw was a blank wall that looked more or less impossible to place any pro and super hard to climb. The first bit was said to be 5.5. And to me that is pretty close to walking, but this!! We saw a couple of bolts high up on the face but getting to them just looked impossible. I just lost interest and after a big bite of cussing decided to walk of it. Sending us back down to the car and changing goals for the day, climbing something totally else. But since this was Yosemite, finding a route to climb is not difficult.
But, walking of the previous route could not leave me untouched. I was furious about it and could not stop thinking of that West Face route. I must have missed something obvious!
After doing a little more investigating I talked Anna back into giving it a new and this time harder try.
Now a bit more relaxed since we had cheeked out from the Pines and had a much nicer camping spot just outside the park. To get a little more relaxed climb wise we took a tour up Rostrum North Face in between.
And a couple of days later we where back at el Cap parking lot.

Second pitch on West Face/Photo alpinemadness/Arkiv

 Since we now didn't have any obvious camping reservation we decided to take the climb with a bivy included close to the top of El Capitan. So after a slow breakfast we took off at mid day, using an hour up to the start of the climb and started climbing at 13:00. Now a little more prepared and ignoring the fact that it looked blank and hard. Instead I found places and hidden cracks here and there to place a cam or nut until I was below the first crux. Below an old rusty bolt, with an old style graded .11c, the adventure had begun!

Anna up on the West Face route

Pitch 8th of el Cap West Face

And pitch after pitch up the face we had a great time with most enjoyable climbing all of our own. The route finding is mostly obvious but here and there it is possible to get of route and sometimes the most spectacular cracks turned out to dead ends. A spectacular traverse up halfways gives an exposed but well protected experience. And finally as the sun is setting below sky line we climb the days last pitch up to out bivy ledge, our free home for the night.

Anna on pitch 6 of the West Face

Finally, just in time at the Terrace after a great days climbing

 A bivy night that soon turned out to be a little bit more chilly then expected and the next morning we raced towards the summit. Sending the last four pitches on exchange for a warm sun.
Over all the West Face of El Capitan is a most spectacular and solid free climb. With pitches 2, 8 and 13 as the most memorable ones. A must on the tick list!"

Sleepy dreams at the Terrace...

...and warm dreams dreaming.

Equipment
50m rope, one set of cams 0.33-#3 ( extra of mid size), 1 set of nuts (off set useful), 10 QD's (a couple of extendable useful).
There are fixed belays on most of the pitches but not always obvious. As on pitch 6 and after the travers on pitch nine.

P1 40m 5.11c
P2 35m 5.11c
P3 40m 5.10a
P4 20m 5.5
P5 40m 5.10a
P6 25m 5.10a
P7 40m 5.11c
P8 35m 5.11c
P9 45m 5.7
P10 45m 5.10b+
P11 48m 5.10b
P12 35m 5.9
P13 35m 5.9
Bivy/Teracce
P14 40m 5.10d
P15 45m 5.10
P16 Traverse
P17 40m 5.7
P18 40m 5.6
P19 35m 5.5
P20 60m 5.8
P21 4th class to  summit

/One road has become many

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Rostrum North Face - a Classy Classic Climb

Rostrum North Face - Classic Yosemite Granite Crack Climb.

Four weeks of climbing and a little more then 200rope lengths, so far.

Pretty good specially since the sunny Californian weather has included more rain and snow then I have experienced during all my weeks and months I have had in Les Etat-Unis in total!

The rapports of flooding and lack of sun have been number one news on Fox each and every day...

Our last couple of days in Big Wall County of Yosemite we had a good number of great climbs with the nine pitch route at Rostrum North Face being the highlight.

The North Face of Rostrum is a very obvious and almost scenic pillar watching over the entrance to the valley. Maybe even a little bit obscure, if you got that look in your eyes!

If the upper approach is used it is very straight forward to get to the base of the climb. Just park the car at the end of the long stone wall west of the Wawona tunnel on highway 41. Hike down the slabs following a well marked trail. Only the last bit is a bit awkward, to some good bolted rappel anchors. 3-4 rappels, depending on how long ropes of have, brings you to the bottom of the north face. Steep a couple of meters left and your at the start of pitch one. A nice crack system with moderate climbing...until the chimney is reached that is! But a well placed hole in the rock makes it possible to do a thread before exiting the chimney up to the belay. The rest is just pure fun and great climbing. Always on good pro. The last offwidh pitch is easily passed with a couple of layback moves, just make sure that you move, leep-frogging, the "big piece cam" upwards and finally just take it out and mantle up to the top of pitch nine. If it feels doubtsome, it's possible to make a placement out right with some mid size Alien. But whatever you do don't leave the cam in the big crack. That will send it to the rest of all the lost pro at the cam graveyard deep in the crack.

 

"We had a windy night just outside the park entrance at hwy 140. Camp 4 was all overcrowded and after a couple of nights at the terrible campsites at "the Pines", which was full as well. We decided that we had it regarding smoke, camper vans and diesel aggregates. We fled the valley and camped outside the spectacle.

Waking up below a blue sky, but with a shooting hard wind and a freezing temp. Could this be our day for a north face climb up a hard pillar?!

Well, starting up the day with some good coffee always makes things better. Improving the outcome sort of. But this very morning it was hard just to get the stove working and keeping the windshield at place, because of the hard breezing winds. Finally we retreaded back inside to the car and had our morning sandwich nicely behind the steering wheel, with some calming country music playing. Did we had any second planes like plan B or even C?

Well, fact is, we both had our brains focused and would really like to put our worked out fingers into the famous cracks of Rostrum.

 

So after an hour or two we anyhow stood at the stonewall, car parked and packs packed with equipment for a great day of climbing.

Three rappels later, passing a Japanese team on the way, we stood at the base and I took off up the easy and nice warm up first pitch, a moderate 5.7. But everything suddenly changed when I realized I had to overcome a chimney to reach the belay station...thinking that this ain't possible, but instead ignoring the wind and cold temperatures I just focus, actually start thinking climbing. And thereafter it just flows. The wind calms down and so do I.

When Warren Harding went up the same route in 1962 with Glen Denny it was one of many great first descents that Harding was involved in. The Nose on El Captain the most famous one.

But the "Wall of the Early Morning Light", El Caps biggest highest rock face, and 27 days on the wall, ignoring the rangers willingness to rescue them, Harding and Dean Caldwell, from the face after a four day Californian storm, made them the hard men of the state!

I don't feel like any of the classic hard men, just fighting myself upwards on spectacular cracks, fingers, hands and offwidh, on modern pro. Long away from old wood pitons.

Happily to threw in an Alien or a BD cam here or now I jam myself upwards, in total respect of these guys like Peter Crofts and Alex Honnold who has soloed this thing unroped!

I guess we all have our crux on a climb like this. But to me the eight pitch was the hardest one, a wild steep finger to hand to layback piece of rope length had me working as hard as possible. Finally at the belay we just had to have a go on the roof, the spectacular "Alien pitch"

Famous last words, get out and do it and it will be awesome!"

Rostrum North Face - Yosemite Valley

First ascent Warren Harding/ Glen Denny 1962

Equipment

60m rope or 2x50m

Cams 2set 0.5- 2" (Green Alien-#3BD) 1 #4" BD

1 set of nuts

6 QD's

 

//I ljuset av verkligheten får medvetandet sin utveckling

 

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The incredible Hulk - High Sierra big wall

The incredible Hulk - High Sierra big wall

Said to be the highest rock face in the high Sierras of California, the Hulk is an incredible rock climbing area, if you are in to crack climbing that is.

The easiest route up this impressive wall is "red Dihedral". A crack system with a very obvious dihedral, somewhat reddish, with up to 5 .10+ climbing over almost 450meter.

To top that one there is the classical Positive Vibration, 10 pitches of max 5.11+ and the marathon route "Venturi Effect". A route with a number of 5.12 pitches stacked on each other. Arm your self with a bunch of endurance and rattle fingers for this one!

What ever route you chose, get ready for a big and great day out!!

The area it self is at Hoover National forest close to the sleepy town of Bridgeport. This used to be a busy place for fishing, the surrounding lakes attracted masses of tourists during the summer. But nowadays the lakes has almost disappeared, with both fishes and catchers. This has reduced the numbers of shops and markets, leaving the town with a second generation of 649 habitants that mostly have given up and gives the feeling of wanting to leave this place. The local Sports bar still provide a modern tasty Burger and almost local beer, great after a Hulk visit. If you're looking for a new business, this is the place to buy something. But don't expect to find it easy!

Leaving Bridgeport for the Hulk the road aim for Mono Village, not to be confused with Mono Lake. We found this place most hostile and it performs better as Mongo village.

The people at the campsite, both owners and quite a few of the locals are not helpful,but are very happy to take the 10 bucks for the parking fee. The bear activity is very high so no food or any thing that looks like food, bear cans included, should be left in the car. If so, you might have a Black bear settlement moved in on the return. There is bear boxes at the campground but to use them you will have to rent a campsite for 25$ a night. Better then to ask any of the fisher campers to share.

The hike up to the Hulk is mostly easy, but for the first timer it would take anything between 3-6 hours. Depends on if you find the trail that skirts of the main trail or not. If you do the whole thing is quite straight forward. Since the number of people heading up ther to climb has increased a lot over the last years, almost becoming a problem that could mean restrictions to come. It fact of human waste and pollution with people leaving their trash behind. So far it is a open no pay area and still the water is clean and drinkable.

Just report with the ranger station located south of Bridgeport before heading out.

The number of people to enter the park is limited during periods, down to eight people a day.

The trail starts at Mono Village Campground up Barney Lake, yellow signs. Follow this for 2.25 miles until reaching a big rock in front of a big pine tree. The climbers trail now takes a sharp left turn over the meadows down to the stream. To cross the stream there is a couple of logs that bridges the stream. From here walk back a bit until there is a number of switch backs up the hill, before the exposed steep hill, this is passed on the left side. Head up the trail trough the trees and talus staying on the left side of the stream, look for cairns, until you see the waterfall. Then cross the stream and pass the waterfall on the right over a complicated talus field. The Hulk is clearly visible high up on the left.

For first timers it's not recommended to try this when it's dark.

At the campsite, expect both bears and squirrels, so leave the food well away from the tent, both day and night.

Also birds can be a problem on packs and shoes if they smell a bit tasty!

The routes.

The High Sierra Super topo has most of the routes included. But still here are way more routes established on both the Hulk as well as on the surrounding crags and walls.

If attempting any of the classics as Venturi or PV both belays and rappel anchors are in place. Otherwise ring extra cord and slings to improve any of the rappel points. For Red Dihedral the best way of descent is by foot.

For a first time visitor the obvious route would be just any of those above Red Dihedral, Venturi Effect and Positive Vibrations. Another great climb is the Polish Route and Escape from Poland.

Return from the summit

Both Venturi and PV uses the same rappel anchors.

For Red Dihedral the best option is to walk, scramble and rappel down. Follow cairns from the summit to the south. A bit exposed at places. Make a 30mts rappel and continue scramble left down the gully passing an other anchor above a chock stone.

Allow some 45minutes back to the base of the wall.

Equipment

2x50m rope or a single 70mts

A big rack of gear.

Cams

Black to Red Alien x2 or more.

#0.5-#4 Black Diamond x2

1 set of nuts

1 set of RP's

Time of year.

May, expect snow, to November, expect snow again!

June and October might be the best month.

Tips of the day

After some camping days in the mountains a day or two at Paradise Shore some 5minutes outside Bridgeport is recommended. Here you can rent a modern camper and just relax. See Paradiseshoresrvpark.com

"we arrived in Mono in mid October, after a couple of warm up days in Tuolomne. The weather was perfect and way to warm to be climbing down in Yosemite Valley. People had been repelling of from he Nose cause of the heat! And big lines of people. Waking up early in the morning to get a effective start and a chance of a bit of climbing as well up a the Saw Tooth. But things would not be easy. To start with the morning was freezing cold and last weeks precipitation wa to be seen high up in the for of snow. Finally we came in to conversation with a Bask and wince a south European Spanjard was into taking the walk up I could not see the reason that we couldn't do the same. Problem 2, our food. We had a big box of food that we thought could be left at the campsite in any of the big number of boxes. How wrong could we be?! The local owner didn't have the same opinion, renting a campsite would include a box. But since we jut paid them 10 dollars to leave our little car on their back yard lump site, the use of any other facilities was to be forgotten. Upon being more then frustrated on these land of the free people and ready to leave Mongo Village People Anna found a nice Carson Family that was more then willing to help out with our food problem. Once at the trail head we had given up the days climbing, just getting to the camp site would be enough.

Which proved more the right. In fact that we had a bit of information bout the hike, we still didn't have any map or GPS, except a tourist map from the car rental.

But going easy we made progress and after a five hour hike we found ourself at a most perfect camping spot some 15 min below our goal.

After pitching our Crux bivy tent the sun was still high enough to become a bit restless. My eyes focused on piece of rock just behind the camp, providing a couple of interesting lines up a 30 mere wall. After a bit of exploring we aimed for the nowadays known "Swedish Corner" A 30meter hand and fist corner crack at 5.10. The day was completed as close as just missing the afternoon coffee, which was to be had as the sunset over tomorrows goal, the Hulk.

Next morning was just as blue as a sky can be. A light breakfast and we set out to climb Positive Vibrations. After a bit of messing around regarding if we should bring shoes or not and also to find out that the local squirrels are to be found everywhere, giving us some food storage problem, we could finally start the climb. A very windy climb it would turn out.

And as an effect of that I made some odd route finding and soon had changed the route to the much harder Venturi, struggling on a supposed 5.10 that later turned out to be a more realistic 5.12. Hepp! Anyhow, the climbing was great so we swallowed my mistake and continued up the

The Venturi hit us as hard as well, and after been blowed away a number of times from the crack we decided we finally had it, leaving the last couple of pitches for later.

The evening and nights at these back country areas are always stunning, the stars somewhat shines greater at higher altitude. And at 11500feet it's high enough to get a bright sight over milky way. And the night to come dreaming of tomorrows climb.

Loading the back pack with gear and rope we head out for Red Dihedral. A bit of a rest day after yesterday's workout. The start of the route is very obvious and soon we are at the base of the dihedral it self. A pretty close to 50m involving pitch with a boulder crux at the top. With that in the bag the rest of the climbing is more of a route finding issue. There are cracks all over, just chose the size, finger hands or fists...

The climbing is just pure satisfaction with no wind, whit yesterday's storm fresh in mind, and the sun over heating us. Our 1 1/2 liter of water is soon gone.

At the top of the ridge we happily flee into the cooling shadow for a while before scrambling over to the last pitch before the summit.

Last day out.

Because of a counting error, we realize that we are one day short of food.

But the weather and surroundings are to good to leave just because lack of such a minor problem. The coffee situation is still on the plus side so no reason to panic.

We decide to get a new one on The Hulk, finishing PV and the last bit of Venturi.

Filling one more day up with High Sierra granite before our return to civilization and burger and beer in Bridgeport and the Sports Bar.

Positive Vibrations

P1 5.9 48m. Nice easy going up the crack system. A couple of different choices. Belay just at the base of the finger crack. Rap anchor below to the left.

P2 5.10+ 40m. The wake up pitch. Fingery crack and then a boulder move higher up.

P3 5.11- 40m. Go straight up from the belay and just at the red color roof head right. A piton at the start of the traverse. A long reach on delicate steps to a hand jam. Then up a couple of meters to the belay.

P4 5.10+ 40m. Great pitch. A lot of stemming. Very obvious from the base.

P5 5.10+ 10m. Short delicate climbing to the bivy ledge.

P6 5.9+ 49m. Just magic climbing up the hand crack. The Venturi Effect shares the anchor but goes straight up.

P7 5.11+ 49m. The crux pitch. Make a two step left to the corner. Micro nuts useful at the start in the corner. A 0.75 BD useful at the top of the pitch.

P8 5.10 46m. Just aim for any of the cracks. Awesome.

P9 5.10+ 35m. Fine finger, hand to fist crack in the corner and over a small roof. You can climb all the way to an exposed ledge on the arête.

P10 5.10 30m. A great hand crack to the very top. Step some 10m right on the ridge to get to the rappel anchor. A stunning climb! Not. Make a short second rappel to the bolts to avoid getting the rope stuck.

Summit pitch of Positive Vibrations

 

Equipment

2set of cams #0.75-3 BD, green-red Alien. 1 set nuts, Blue Alien and micro nuts optinal

10 QD's

2x50m rope.

The Venturi Effect 5.12 / 7b+

P1 5.11+ 35m. Start at a thin flake some 30mts right of PV. Left of the wider crack of Eye of the Sorm

P2 5.11 30m. From the terrace ledge head up to find a fix piton in a horizontal crack. Make a airy steep right and move up to a fixed nut anchor.

P3 5.12 35m. The Stellar Corner. Thin corner, useful with small RP's Belay on fixed gear.

P4 5.11 25m. Committing lie back climbing and steep left to join belay with PV

P5 5.10 15m. Easy climbing straight up to a 2 bolt anchor.

P6 5.12a 35m. Starting up the great Shield Pitches. A boulder hard crux move past 2 bolts.

P7 5.12+ 40m. Continue up the rattly crack passing an old rap anchor. The crux is at the one and only old piece of bolt!, .12?!. Up to a triple of new bolts, belay out to the left.

P8 5.12 40m. A flared thin splitter passing 2 bolts. Traverse the roof on its right and head up the strenuous overhanging splitter on the right side of the arête. And make an awkward move right to the next splitter. Then pull cruxy slab moves past yet other 2 bolts.

If you done it so far you make the rest!

P9 5.11+ 35m. The Venturi pitch. Pass a blank wall with a few bolts and stem past the roof at 5.10 to The Nest Ledge.

P10 5.11+ 35m. Continue up the amazing splitter to the ridge.

Anna fighting on one of Venturis 5.12+

 

Descent.

Rappel down to the bivy ledge and then down PV.

Not. Make a short second rappel to the bolts to avoid getting the rope stuck.

Or continue the ridge and descend same as for Red Dihedral.

Equipment

2-3 set of small cams, Blue - Red Alien, #0.75-2 Camalot.

1 set of nuts and RP's

8 QD's

//Jagad av blixtar andas jag krut och elektricitet

 

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