Oct 2, 2011


Last Monday I had a quite good day on "Blåberget" with a easy strol up the classic "Vikingasvärdet" graded 6+, UIAA VII something.
So today, I thought lets free solo the thing. After giving the direct version a bit of scrubbing on some mossy sections, a variation I put up some years ago. It felt better than ever.
And after warming up on "Belsebub" a 60mts 5+/6- I felt ready to go for the object of the day.
But, to be honest, first I had an espresso to free the mind...

The sun was hitting the east face of the wall really nice when I got to the cliff. It was warm even, so the down sweater went off in a hurry.

Blueberry hill in the autum light. Vikingasvärdet follows the shade line on the right side

Vanja at the watch

Vanja on the watch
Forcing my self to look down one more time before I pull my self over and up on the big ledge just below the top! I am sure I have done a couple of stupid things, but this wasn't to clever maybe:-)
One look and then off to do no. 2. I don't know if it's because of the espresso or the climb, but it is rapidly in a big hurry.
It's the last of the routes in this grade I had left to do before I had all of the 6+ in the "free solo bag" But this one was sick!
Rapped down to the base, put on my new 5-10's anasazi and starting up the first bouldery section. Which is the hardest on the whole climb actually. The start goes easy, to easy? The rubbet sticks like glue, (have i heard that in a song?)

The mid section passing the bolt with no hanger feels ok, nothing to clip in anyhow! but it is a bit of a foot work on it...and feels airy after the small roof.
Needs to make a bit of a dyno change over from left to right shoe/feet. Still ok though. Glad I removed some of the wet moss, now it's nice and clean with perfect friction.
But on the crux, I can not remember the moves, which hand first? Hmm, I decide to make two mental variations before going sharp.
A finger jam, a small knob, friction steep and up with the hand, right hand? Yes, left hand it was, makes the next move easier, still possible to change if it shows wrong, but a bit tricky.
The good thing about soloing is that it is easy to make a placement, a yellow alien, on the only good jam point. But now that isn't a problem:-) So the finger jam locks perfect. A bit of balance move with a fingery layback, now it's just focusing, nothing else and then it's easy.
A bit to exited I forget the last big holds going up a bit to the right, instead I just makes the last perfect hand jams and reach the BIG top hold, made it!
The big question, why the hell??
As always, just because I felt for it!!

From Umeå drive E12 west towards Vännes. Take road 92 towards Bjurholm/Fredrika. After passing Balsjö there is are two long straightways. A short while after passing the "Camping" there is a road sign pointing left towards Ö Nyland. Follow that road to the tiny village where you go left towards Bredträsk. Continue on that road for 1 km until the first crossing. Take left and continue for some 2-300 meters until you see a tiny logging road on the left. Follow that logging road for 4 km approx, you will see the cliff on the right side. There is à parking on both sides of the road. From the parking lot there is a well worn trail up to the cliff.
The rack should include at least a set of stoppers, maybe even doubles in the midsizes, and a set of camming devices from 0.75 inches to 3.5 inches. (Camalalot #0.5 to #3.5). For the harder routes small camming devices will be useful. And, most belays are not equipped with bolts!
There are two walls, little and Big wall, I leave it up to you to decide which is which...

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