Last Monday I had a quite good day on "Blåberget" with a easy strol up the classic "Vikingasvärdet" graded 6+, UIAA VII something.
So today, I thought lets free solo the thing. After giving the direct version a bit of scrubbing on some mossy sections, a variation I put up some years ago. It felt better than ever.
And after warming up on "Belsebub" a 60mts 5+/6- I felt ready to go for the object of the day.
But, to be honest, first I had an espresso to free the mind...
The sun was hitting the east face of the wall really nice when I got to the cliff. It was warm even, so the down sweater went off in a hurry.
Blueberry hill in the autum light. Vikingasvärdet follows the shade line on the right side
Vanja on the watch
Forcing my self to look down one more time before I pull my self over and up on the big ledge just below the top! I am sure I have done a couple of stupid things, but this wasn't to clever maybe:-)
One look and then off to do no. 2. I don't know if it's because of the espresso or the climb, but it is rapidly in a big hurry.
It's the last of the routes in this grade I had left to do before I had all of the 6+ in the "free solo bag" But this one was sick!
Rapped down to the base, put on my new 5-10's anasazi and starting up the first bouldery section. Which is the hardest on the whole climb actually. The start goes easy, to easy? The rubbet sticks like glue, (have i heard that in a song?)
The mid section passing the bolt with no hanger feels ok, nothing to clip in anyhow! but it is a bit of a foot work on it...and feels airy after the small roof.
Needs to make a bit of a dyno change over from left to right shoe/feet. Still ok though. Glad I removed some of the wet moss, now it's nice and clean with perfect friction.
But on the crux, I can not remember the moves, which hand first? Hmm, I decide to make two mental variations before going sharp.
A finger jam, a small knob, friction steep and up with the hand, right hand? Yes, left hand it was, makes the next move easier, still possible to change if it shows wrong, but a bit tricky.
The good thing about soloing is that it is easy to make a placement, a yellow alien, on the only good jam point. But now that isn't a problem:-) So the finger jam locks perfect. A bit of balance move with a fingery layback, now it's just focusing, nothing else and then it's easy.
A bit to exited I forget the last big holds going up a bit to the right, instead I just makes the last perfect hand jams and reach the BIG top hold, made it!
The big question, why the hell??
As always, just because I felt for it!!
From Umeå drive E12 west towards Vännes. Take road 92 towards Bjurholm/Fredrika. After passing Balsjö there is are two long straightways. A short while after passing the "Camping" there is a road sign pointing left towards Ö Nyland. Follow that road to the tiny village where you go left towards Bredträsk. Continue on that road for 1 km until the first crossing. Take left and continue for some 2-300 meters until you see a tiny logging road on the left. Follow that logging road for 4 km approx, you will see the cliff on the right side. There is à parking on both sides of the road. From the parking lot there is a well worn trail up to the cliff.
The rack should include at least a set of stoppers, maybe even doubles in the midsizes, and a set of camming devices from 0.75 inches to 3.5 inches. (Camalalot #0.5 to #3.5). For the harder routes small camming devices will be useful. And, most belays are not equipped with bolts!
There are two walls, little and Big wall, I leave it up to you to decide which is which...