Feb 2, 2012

Aonach More East Face

Looks like Saturday will give us some popular Scottish weather, finally!
As i have been told that winter climbing in this part of the world is a true weather story im a bit disappointed i must say...in a positiv way
Yesterday was a excellent day with blue Skye's and no wind. So a quick run up the Glen Coe. On the way down to Edinburgh felt like the best way to spend the day.
The North-west face of Glen Coe

Today the goal was set on some mixed cragging up at Aonach Mor to get Andrei into the mixed scottish feeling. The routes are numerous so just pick and choose and since there are quite a few of 3* ones we went for the white shark as a warm up. A 110mts IV 4 with steep ice and steep slabby corners.

Views over Aonach

At the base of White Shark, looking for the teeth...!?

The last days cooler weather has made the ice a bit more brittle but nothing more then the effect of  the need to do a bit more swinging. Still the ice isnt thick enough to do any proper ice screws placements so the answer is runoute, an masse.
 But that makes it easier for the second, no pro to fight to get out!

After struggling over the cornice,, which wasnt even exposed, time for a quick cup of tea and back down again. This time for...Typhoon An other 3* star grade IV 5, 130mts
Thinner ice but less steep, but a little more serious. After one long and one short pitch I find myself 20m or maybe just 15 over the last pro and struggling with an overhanging cornice...Well, the old trick with making yourself as light as possible and a positive mind always work.
Suddenly an other climber appears with a bit of wild looking
- how do you protect those cornice's?
Well, focus and go light
 Beannachd leat!

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