Jun 22, 2012

La Petite Maladière Une très bien...


It is always nice to find out something that works well. Doesn't matter if it is a new adjustment for the road bike, like my new compact disc for my Scott, or just to find a nice vertical cliff with a whole bunch of 4* routes. And then not just one pitch ones!

The walk in to Maladières is about 30 min on an easy trail. Passing some old houses as well as an area where there always this time of year are masses of berries.

And once at the cliff the views over le massif are stunning!

An other thing for the day was to try out the best of three options of clogging on a fix rope!

Rope solo climbing

If the route isn't to long or hard I prefer to climb the pitch again when cleaning it, this is when I rope solo. Otherwise, I clean the pitch using jumars, if the route is long, hard and warm...Since before I have given up on using the regular Petzl Basic, which I think is ok for it's purpose but a bit ankward cause it's also nesessary to use a chest harness as well. There for I have found out that the best choices would be Petzl minitraxion, Trango Cinch or Kong Duck


Only one of these are actually tested and approved for clogging, but that doesn't really mean that the other ones won't work and be safe?? Maybe a factor of cost of money?

So today I put the all in the blue ice pack and walked off from le Orage

And walked off, again to mald... The goal was set for a couple of high star routes - Jacques l'éventreur and Obsession. Two as it turned out easy to find! and good quality routes up the middle of le Petite. With a start up ...casque de Jupiter.
Vanja as always at the base (this time top) taking observations

The rappel down is straightforward. 2 rapps and touchdown.

Rien pour obtenir la corde de rester coincé dans la clôture! After leading the first pitch, rapp down and first out on the fix rope was the duck. A small nice thing that weights only like 78gr. With a still big enough whole for a regular biner to fit in. But, this thing isn't recommended for this use! And I must say it doesn't feel quite safe. Even though it worked fine when I fell back in it. BUT, it will not lock if you just lean back or if there is a to big weight below holding the rope down! Then it just slides down the rope...

So after the next pitch, a long nice 6c, I put on the cinch, which main purpose is belaying, so if one want to re-climb a section just rappel down back and start over. It slides nice up the rope but needs a heavier weight pulling the rope down for easy sliding. ( I just used my more or less empty sac a dos)

Off course this depend on which diameter your rope have. I use a 9.4mm Bluewater at this test. And it slides fine. The Cinch is approved down to just 9.4! I also noticed that it slides slowly down wards if I just hanged on into the cinch without braking it...just sslloowwlyy As in very slow!

The last pitch of l'éventreur has a hard to read section of 6b, but here is the horn! Catch it if your a short guy and your home safe!

Le Romainian horn!?

Otherwhise there are no surprises, except really perfect lime...

Fun and funny on the day off...

Back on top, off to next route and an other rappel. Same start with le Casque, but this time out to the right and the last pitch of 6c on Obsession is just a stunning line, move after move.

For this route I use the minitraxion. But it's sharp teeth makes me feel a bit "hairy". Even though it's the only device of these that is approved for the reason... And, it slides fine up the rope and is easy to pull in.

It locks with out any hassle when I let the body fall out with some slack. Well, it works, thanks 4 thats!

After the days workout, it's time to get back down the road to get some more berries down the belly.. And the conclusion that booth Petzl and Trango has a good working piece for clogging.

And the duck belongs with the Clic a Claque...!

La Petite Maladiére

To get here follow the track and signs from the parking, first one on the left after village le Frasse. The track takes you up a dirt road which changes to a path. After a small forest clearing the path goes up right. Follow this for approx 50mts and then take left. Your at le sommet!

The best anchour is at the sign of Romain Vogler metal plate.

The limestone is very compact on steep rock with very good friction.

You need, 2x50m ropes for the rappel, 7-8 QD and a good bag of chalk

notice. To use a clogging system safe, what ever device, it is wise and reckomended to have a backup rope with "bunny ears" to hold you in case of mal function of the device!

But, after leading on a thing, Rock Exotica Soloist, that doesn't even have a CE typing, I don't feel to unhappy to clogg on just one rope...:)

/ Dur Conduire!



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