Aug 22, 2013

Eidetind full Traverse 5b

East face of Eidetind - rope solo - "Norske Semester del ll"



After a full days work out on Storsteinsfjell, I had a sleepin until 06:30, when the sun started to hit the window of the back of the car...nothing else to do then just 'getup!

A lazy morning, enjoying the lack of mosquitos and good coffey togheter witha good book.

But soon enough the weather aspect turned me into an other mood, the climbing one. So the car was suddenly packed and racked and I headed down south towards E-fjord and Eidetind.

With an other perfect day ahead, no clouds and still a lot of daylight, like 24h/ 24h I went for the classic Engelska Diedret. A 5+/5b route up the south face of Eidetind.

I had climbed this route a couple of times before but never to the top of the peak, making the full traverse of the mountain.

A very easy approach, compered to the one the day before, took me via an 30min walk up the base. Racked up and ready to go...

"Engelska diedret" le diedre Anglais, is to be found at the center of le photo


The climbing is very enjoyable, short sections of a bit of tricky climbing but mostly very relaxed and good protected, if you have the pro!

I hade planned light is right and just brought with me the most useful things

This five pitch route ends just when the wall lays down a bit and the rappel anchours is to be found a little more out to climbers right.

After the fifth pitch, which has a short thin section at the start up to a roof, the climbing gets just easier...and even more easy the closer to the summit.

Eidetind ridge a top of Dièdre Anglais


Finally up at the edge, the ridge climbs away loong and looks like a never ending story. But, once on it, it goes quite easy and quick.

At the top there is two options, return the same way and make some scrambling back down on the east side, or continue down towards the fjord

I choose the first alternative, since I just had one car and that one was parked at the E6 below the face.

2 short rappels and some down climbing trough the bushes and approx 2h later I stood solid at the European highway no6 again.


A great and interesting little expedition...

More info and topo at rock fax

You need

2x50m rope, if you abseil the route

1set of mid size stoppers, 1 set of cams up to no4 Camalot


4th and 5th belay station are fixed, as well as the rappel anchors for the normal descent. For the traverse bring some extra slings to leave in case of...

//Anbefall varandra sanning och tålamod. Utan tro och goda gärningar är människan tillspillogiven


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