Blaitiere - no fiasco on Fidel
Great views on Blaitiere
With only single days in between work Plan d'Aiguille and Blaitiere is a good choise. Straightforward approach, no glacier crossing and not even necessary with crampons
A thing to bear in mind though is that most of the routes are quite long time since they were put up, so beware the gradings! A 6c Piola route, it IS a ruff 6c...
We headed for the long and persistent "Fidel Fiasco" 350m, ED sup/VIb or modern 6C, only broken up with a short 4+, otherwise sustained climbing, mostly in cracks but with a most interesting crux part over a steep slab. A route not to be missed!
A Backlund in the corners and cracks mood, Fidel Fiasco, 6C
A Backlund following the cracks on Fidel Fiasco
An other excellent but less climbed route is the "old Wave", which I guess is named after Ringo Stars 9th studio album
First climbed July 1976/1977; Rick Accomazzo, Mike Graham, Rob Muir, TD 5.10, read more here
In the Piola topo the route is called “Les Diamants du President", TD/V+ 180 m, 1e asc:Thierry Rus/Pascal Strappazzon le 19 Setembre 1985
Some kind of mixed up is probably done, but it's still a nice route
As it says in the Topo:
-Tres belle voie ouverte uniquement a l’aide de coinceurs. Soleil rare
And the big chimneys explains the reason for the lack of sun for sure!
R B for the routes
Fidel Fiasco, good fixed belays
Set of nuts, small wires is a good complement
Set of Cams double of Alien Green-Red
Set of Cams 0.75-3.0 Camalots
2*50m rope, with 2*60m the rappels are quicker
Descent same route
"Les diamants", ok fixed belays, route no 140
Set of nuts
Set of cams Green-Red alien, 0.75-4.0 Camalot, double of mid size?!
Descent down Majorette thatcher
//En gång tala och därmed bliva, är bättre än 100ggr tala