Aug 4, 2013

Fidel Fiasco / les diamonds du President

Blaitiere - no fiasco on Fidel

Great views on Blaitiere

With only single days in between work Plan d'Aiguille and Blaitiere is a good choise. Straightforward approach, no glacier crossing and not even necessary with crampons

A thing to bear in mind though is that most of the routes are quite long time since they were put up, so beware the gradings! A 6c Piola route, it IS a ruff 6c...

Anna Backlund on second pitch of Fidel Fiasco

We headed for the long and persistent "Fidel Fiasco" 350m, ED sup/VIb or modern 6C, only broken up with a short 4+, otherwise sustained climbing, mostly in cracks but with a most interesting crux part over a steep slab. A route not to be missed!

A Backlund in the corners and cracks mood, Fidel Fiasco, 6C

A Backlund following the cracks on Fidel Fiasco

Sensitive climbing on the slabs of Fidel


An other excellent but less climbed route is the "old Wave", which I guess is named after Ringo Stars 9th studio album

First climbed July 1976/1977; Rick Accomazzo, Mike Graham, Rob Muir, TD 5.10, read more here

In the Piola topo the route is called “Les Diamants du President", TD/V+ 180 m, 1e asc:Thierry Rus/Pascal Strappazzon le 19 Setembre 1985

Some kind of mixed up is probably done, but it's still a nice route

As it says in the Topo:

-Tres belle voie ouverte uniquement a l’aide de coinceurs. Soleil rare

And the big chimneys explains the reason for the lack of sun for sure!


Blaitiere and Pilier Rouge, the Old Wave is in the shade to the right in the picture
Jaming on trough les Diamonds, Ari V climbing

Cracks and Chimneys, a route for a President

Santa Ari arriving through the chimney!

R B for the routes

Fidel Fiasco, good fixed belays


Set of nuts, small wires is a good complement

Set of Cams double of Alien Green-Red

Set of Cams 0.75-3.0 Camalots

7-10 QD's

2*50m rope, with 2*60m the rappels are quicker

Descent same route

"Les diamants", ok fixed belays, route no 140

Set of nuts

Set of cams Green-Red alien, 0.75-4.0 Camalot, double of mid size?!

2*50m rope

Descent down Majorette thatcher


//En gång tala och därmed bliva, är bättre än 100ggr tala


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