Alpine conditions a Chamonix

Alpine conditions a Chamonix

Since we have had winter the whole summer it doesn’t seem more than right that we get a bit of extra summer now when the winter supposed to arrivée.

The last weeks has been perfect for a bit of rocking around doing rock climbing, specially on the south facing sides. The north faces has been a bit chilly...yes I agree on that.

As most of us have seen the lack of snow is quite obvious in the western parts of the Alps, not to bad in the eastern parts actually. But still long way from a ”normal” winter. What ever could be normal these days…

But, with an open mind and free soul, there is a whole bunch of thing to do. As this monday I found the perfect conditions to ski off the north side of Mont Joly towards le Planay. A great line but most of the time to scary and prone to avalanches. Not mentioning the Bisons at the lower part, KEEP skiers LEFT!!

As with the conditions in the high mountains. A lot of mixed and alpine routes are in perfect ”nick” and now when the lifts are starting to open up, the Italians has kept the Helbronner lift open the whole autumn (lets hope it stay that way). 

From Helbronner and Torino even some unusual lines has been in for a mixed up climbing as well as some steeper ski runs has been doable and quite safe to ski off.

The snow is very wind slabed in places and the lack of snow shouldn’t  take the seriousment out of the day, a little more like Scottish conditions as you might find on places like Ben Nevis. No snow…no snow…but then on that spot…there is a whole load and hard effected by wind as well and POW, there the whole thing goes. Worst case, your in it! So take care and do not just judge because the lack of the normal amount of deep powder snow. The fall has been very dramatic, windy and warm. Which make the ground control a bit worried and different. 

A Classic peak.

Le Tour Ronde - easily accessed from Torino and Helbronner has a whole bunch of classic alpine routes. The other day we went up and got a go on ”voie Rebuffat” a nice D+ route with one pitch with some delicate mixed climbing. And if you skip the last pitch its possible to rap the route back down on fixed belays. A great climb all in all.

Crux part of the "Voie Rebuffat"

On the approach I saw that the North Face was in perfect shape as well so with a totally free day off I had a late breakfast before I brought the Ford to the tunnel under madame Blanc. 

A quick approach to the base of the face on the wind blown snow, changing to crampons from skis and as always when crossing a bergschrund solo…the pulse goes up…but after the road is clair. Since I have climbed the regular NF a couple of times before I headed for the Buscaini variation. 

Which hold some 4c mixed parts and full on enough 4 sure. A great climb and a bit more interesting than just hammering up its neighbour. 

Once on top I put the skis on to try and ski down the south SE ridge, but a narrow rock corp force me to take them of for a couple of meter to down climb a few meters before I can continue down and make the moving round tour in a bit under the hour.

   

And at the time being, use the situation as best as possible, stay on top!

//La seule chose permanente est le changement

la Gruvaz cascade de glace

Stupid days, stupid tours

And this...was one of them!

But, what is there to do when there has been a lack of days on ice and one have become tired of pumping around in the white powder?!

So, a day off work and with a semi inspiration and an tour du improvisation

Gorge du Gruvaz it is!

 

After about 10 min walking up the stream I realize why the crowds has found other places than this remote place!

The narrow canyon is very mystic in a way, surrounded by steep walls of different quality, some loose rock that seem frequently sending chute du pierres down the sides. But nothing to dramatic. And after an other 20min I can check in at the base of the ice. Which looks surprisingly steep. And to be honest the ice it self looks a little to wet and cause of the black dark rock under I give it a couple of thoughts if the ice really will stick on. Or if it might collapse as the other ices on the left sides has done.

Those ones are a little thinner to start with and also a little more exposed from the sun. As at it says I the topo "an ice that rarely forms". The whole thing has broken off and tumbled down to the bottom of the ravin.

But, the main cascade of Gruvaz is on the other hand often in condition. Specially early int the season. Just a little exposed from avalanches.

And if the ice hasn't broken down so far, why should it collapse today!?

 

The first 5-6mts is quite easy, but then the ice gets steep and is both exposed and technical with very interesting and demands a bit of focus

Just as I start to climb I just promise myself that, "ok, this will be the last solo, from now on we stay on rope and maybe even a partner"

Often I see the water flowing behind the ice, flowing down the underlaying rockface

And now and then the blades from the axes sinks trough the ice and bottoms out in plain air

One good thing with cauliflower ice, it's now and then to get a foot rest, a step de étage, if it jut holds... Which is mostly does if you just stay light on the foot

And it's also easy just to hook the blades behind the cauli's and ins'halla est akbar

I must admit feeling a little stupid up here but on the other hand, the climb is just great!

Steep, technique and no signs of other climbers. The perfect ice climb

After 50mts climbing there is a key section getting of the final steep part over a thinner ice covered area. Due to the thin ice the pick is just impossible to hook on to something and I try a whole variety of options before I finalement get a solid hook to take a big steep ou and over the key, placing the crampons on solid rock. An other 10meter plus and I are on such good terrain so I can pull the trail line up behind me. And a glance up above tells I have an other 50m up over less steep ice and even a little passage of grass!

Can't wait to hook the picks in that!

A couple of interesting tufa meters and it's all over. Again the whole thing went well, the mind keept the body togheter and moving without bailing out

A whole bunch of Chamois stands steering at me, probably wondering what that guy is up to?! I just as quiet as possible try to move away and starts plodding off back towards the village and the car. Convinced that the last thing I want to ldo is rappel back down in that canyon, taking the chance to walk out the same way. Must be better and more secure to walk out. Just enough of unsecured transport for one day

A 30min approach, followed up by a 1h climb and a 56min descent back to the car

Not a full day, but a good day and still alive for yet an other solo...

And, if you are lucky you might get a good look on a typical French Jakt torn!

 

Situation

Gruvaz cascade du glace, Gorge riva gauche

You need

1-10ice screws, 1-8QD's, free biners and slings for the belays

2x50m rope

Access

From st Gervais continue towards les Contamines. Some 2-3km before Contamines there is a sign towards la Gruvaz up left. Go as far as possible, to the road end. Either just go up the stream or take the right hand path. Be observant to falling rocks and the chance of avalanches. Avoided after heavier snow falls!

More reading and info at camp to camp

/ tvivel håller tron levande

 

Skickat via Blogsy

Stetind - Southpillar solo race

Norske semester del lll (dag lll)
Stetind - "the ugliest mountain I ever saw" a well known tale said by sir Cecil slingsby. Probably after failing to reach its very distinct summit

Stetind Northface, a demanding climb

I have climbed this peak in all kind of weather aspects, sun, mist, heavy wind and rain as well in clear sunny weather wearing only t-shirt and shorts
And the situation where the mountain is placed, just between the Lofoten islands and the higher peaks inland might be the cause of its hard to predict weather situation
Arriving Efjord is nowadays quite easy, at least if you have a car. Before the road and tunnel was built the only approach was by either foot or boat from Kjøpsvik. Probably more of an expedition compared to these days

After spending a brilliant evening and night under the north face of the mountain I had some quite relaxed plans for the next day, since the weather once again was said turning to bad. And, all the weather signs turned up as well, cirrus clouds followed by strong wind and dark big culumus clouds over land
But slowly they disappeared and the sky turned back to blue. Time to reconsider the planes!

The south pillar of Steind, which I had thought of as a good option came back to life. The longer and more difficult "devils dance floor" would be a more interesting route. But the pillar is the nicest climb on the mountain, keeping its grade mostly around UIAA 5, and much quicker to climb

Stetind South Pillar

After a quick breakfast I packed the sac a dos with a small selection of stoppers and cams and one single rope, just in case. Drove the car through the tunnel to the other side and headed off
The approach is very quick with a perfect path most of the way. Just before it takes off up the steeper part up to Halls fortop and Mysosten it makes a hard turn out left, with well marked cairns
Crossing the lower ampfi and just aim for the obvious pillar
Luckily I had just made it before two other parties, also was heading for the same route, a team of two and a team of three. So first in line so to speak!
The first pitches are quite easy, 4+ followed by some scrambling, so I decide to leave the rope in the sac. The next ones feel easy and comfortable as well so I just keep going on a nice phase, just enjoying the day. Climbing in only thights and t-shirt with a light breeze. Great day for this type of activity!
The angle of the pillar is never steep on the first part, just short sections, so it just keeps going and suddenly I arrive at the upper ampfi. A rock band were its possible to walk around it south face and of the route if needed
The next pitch is the crux of the whole route, a section with moves up to UIAA 6+. I decide to bring out the rope to protect the middle part, just in case. Wouldn't like to jump into the other teams belays unannounced sort of...!
It's about 15m with some harder climbing before it gets easier again and then the last pitch goes ok unroped again

Summit of Stetind, 3h from the parking to the top via south pillar

A look on the watch shows 3h from the parking to the summit
Then it's somewhat 2h scrambling/walk back to the parking, arriving just as the rain moves in. Just hoping that the other teams made it safe to the top as well...

The football field on Stetind summit

You need
1*50m rope, (2for full safety), a big set of wires, 1 set of cams, 8-10 QD's, or just a chalkbag and shoes...
No belays in place
Recommended, read the book Heaven takes all, Himlen tar alle. A great story about a couple during their climb of the peak
History the South pillar had its first FFA 1972 done by Lars-göran Johansson (who is running klatter och hogfjell) togheter with Håkan Bjerneld, källa Rafael Jensen

Link to Topo for the area, for a full guidebook, have a look at topptur.nu

-Hellre hugga i än bära ris på sin egen rygg

Mountainpassion

Ultimate Classic - Nygrens led

Kebnekaise Nordtopp, snart Sveriges högsta topp?!

Nygrens led går till höger om snöfältet (Nygrens triangel, som är ett fint skidåk)

 

Med den fart som dess granne, Sydtoppen, smälter av så kommer det inte att vara många år innan skaran av folk får börja ta sig an den ytterst spektakulära och luftiga traversen över till Nord

Förra året mättes Sydtoppen upp till 2101,8m, i år så står den redan på ca 2101...hmm

Kammen mellan Nord- och Sydtoppen

En ledig dag mellan två jobb och väcker klockan ställd på 05:05, planer för att göra stordåd bland fjällen och den klassiska "vargryggen" med start vid Toulpagorni och avslut via Kaskasepakte och Liljetoppen

04:30 vaknar jag av att det slår hårt av regn mot fönstret, klockan 04:45 vaknar jag av att sänggrannen vräker sin stora hydda mot mig och jag i panik försöker vältra tillbaka den massiva oformliga kroppshyddan, utan framgång. I skräck sträcker jag mig uppåt och inser att jag drömt! Och att regnet slutat och några blå luckor syns redan på himlen, gasen i botten!

Ner till frukost och just som kaffet avslutats så fylls himlen av svarta moln och regnet drar in igen, jippie!

Efter en lång utdragen petit déjeuner så slängs handduken in och vi vandrar moloket ut på trappen. En joggning runda planeras i stillsamhet istället.

Men velandes vid säcken så har jag plötsligt packat ner isyxa och skärm och istället för Tarfala så går benen mot Jökelbäcken och ... nånting annat. Slutar med att jag efter 1 1/2h står vid insteget till den klassiska "Nygrens Led", en alpin klassisker. Utan någon större svårighets grad, men nog så intressant och en fin avkoppling i bergen dessutom slutar den på vad som snart kommer vara Sveriges högsta punkt!

Efter lite samspråk med några bekanta som jag träffar på som är ute på tält runda, gemensam fika och lite livs njutning så hastar jag vidare uppför ryggen. Spekulerar i att det ska ta 20min, Olhen kontrar med 32... Men lyckas efter lite konstiga vägval kvala in på 27min upp till topps, 400höjdmeter och grad -IV, med några lite halvkänsliga passager som kräver att hugga några steg på is/snö. Upp över kanten visar sig vara väldigt enkelt, upp i dimman

Och då topp kammen är avsmält så får jag användning av mina superlightade cramponger, jeess.

Snabbaste stegjärnen på marknaden?

 

Joggning över tillbaka mot Syd och nedför Östra leden innan jag kan veckla ut skärmen och flyga ut i turbulensen för en 10min flygretur, 3.5h t-o-r...ännu en ledig dag på jobbet!

 

Utrustning

Isyxa, 3-6 mellan stora kilar, 2-3 camkilar, rep 30m

Inga standplatser och några fasta pitonger en route

//All skönhet är från himmelen ett lån

 

Mountainpassion