Kaisepakte "Arête la Niehku"

Kaisepakte "Arête la Niehku" ( the dream arête ) - a loong wanted route !
Some 10 years ago! I was driving up towards Norway and Spansdalen, passing Riksgränsen / Abisko on the way for some regular ice climbing. Something that payed my attention on the road was some thin icicles formed on the most eastern part of Kaisepakte, about 11km before Abisko.

A long approach, reasons due to lack of time and no one else interested to walk up at try it, and that it looked pretty hard, reasons that the time passed and years went. I always had a look on this pillar/arête every time I passed it, sometimes it was formed, sometimes not.... The only thing that stayed in form was me, more and more keen to give it a try
Finally
With a trip booked up to Senja, Norway, visiting Bent Eilertsen at Senja mountain lodge, I had a full week of climbing and skiing ahead. The way up we flew via Kiruna and made the long drive up to Senja, a 4h Plus drive on typical Norwegian roads. The route came up to my mind direct as a backup just in case, but the lack of light made it impossible to see if there was one of these years that it had formed...
Arriving at Senja the weather gave us a most wet stay, but a good chance to test our gear, clothes and ropes! Double gore tex time indeed!!
But, everything has an end and after four days with constant rainy buisness we throw the towel in and headed back east. A steep closer to my line...
A 40min drive took us to the closest distans from the mountain and we could still see nothing. The clouds made its best to cover it. But, we quickly, or if it was just me, made a backup plan if the lack of ice was total. The main icefall had a lot of ice on it so we could always escape to that one, let's get going.

Frist CRUX On the route, passing the train fence

My earlier reconnaissance was right so far that the approach was long and the terrain a bit salissant, and a 50cm soft snow under a 5mm crust didn't help much in any other positiv matter then giving more of a workout. Even though the snowshoes made the "stroll" a little better going
As positiv as possible I scanned the mountain side with an other couple of interesting lines, but the one in mind was definitely the best. And soon we should find out

Approaching the corner

Placed on the very end and east facing corner we had to walk the whole side before getting to the truth. I had an idea that the route it self should be about 4-5 pitches with ice at the base and mixed at the top.
And yes, a thin strike of ice was glancing over me. But a bit closer it was only to find out that it started about 5-6 meter up, above a compact wall. But an other option soon turned out, a thin ramp a bit lower down should be useful to connect with the higher ice passages. And after that...in shalla!

First pitch of "Arête la Niehku"
With new blades on my tools I started picking my way up, slow and gentle with the brittle ice formations. After 10m I found a crack to put a no.2 stopper, stepped up high, placed the axe and everything cracked. Stepping up a bit higher I tried again, same result. A brisk hollow sound sent the message that this was fragile ground. A little bit desperate I focused on a third effort, after Ola made the announcement that "maybe just come back down, let's try something else"

"arête la Niehku" WI5/M6/ED+, a dream arête


People that know me know it's a good way of forcing me a little bit more. After checking the stopper a couple of times extra, giving it a bit of a punch to stay in place I found a higher list to place the front point on and stretched as high as 173cm can be. Swinging the blade as gentle as possible and two soft strikes it felt ok, then one more high reach and same result, ice cracking but not so much. This could work actually! An other six seven meters and I found a most perfect placement for a no.6 stopper, this will work actually!!
Climbing up an other 20m and I happily arrange a good belay on perfect ice. And a commenting Ola is soon following up the mixed terrain to join me. Having a look on the next pitch that had much more of a relaxing caracter I'm eager to get going

A vertical ice section ended at a suspisios small snow field, with nothing else then soft snow to place the tools in. A delicate steep and I could arrange my self on the snow, climbing up and traversing over a longer bit of mixed stuff. A 40m pitch took me under some nasty looking cornice, but nothing else to do then to adapt to the route finding devoirs

Opppss..., don't want to watch this...

An exposed traverse over some snow covered ledges and a 10 m later I find a most perfect crack to bang in a mid size stopper before a vertical mossy section which sends me to a lower angel corner system. What I will find around the corner stays a secret, only one way to find out.
Again there is a crack this time horizontal, to place a piton in deep enough to make the next vertical steep feel safe, anyhow the last bit won't stop me now! An acrobatic split/roll swings me over the edge up to a bigger ledge system and a final step wall up over the top, not even a cornice to fight, thanks!

Ola Ilebrand at the last crux on "Arête la Niehku" WI5/M6/ED+

At top, after 2 1/2h focused climbing. Still enough daylight to find a secure way down, only forced to rappel once, because of some mean looking snowfields. Feels better to be in a rope at touch down.
Then it's only a good hours walk back down to the road/car, just hoping to find the snowshoes. Turns out to just as tricky. And a well deserved Coffey at the STF station after a full day out and a long wanted climb in the bag!

Le sommet!
Place, Kaisepakte main wall Abisko, sweden
Route, East arête/face of Kaisepakte main wall, approx 11km east of Abisko, just after the road and Torneträsk separates there is a parking lot, start walking...
Name and grade, Arête la Niehku, dream arête, WI5/M6/ED+ 4pitches
Equipment, 50m rope, 3-6 ice screws, 3-4 mid size pitons, small set of stoppers, 3-6 QD's

Working is good as long as you don't forget to live

Mountainpassion

Senja Island - Norway

Senja Island - Norway

A great place to try out your new Gore tex costume and pick up a couple of new routes!

 

Suited at 69_20_N_17_30_E_ the Senja Island is the second largest island in Norway and has approx 7782 inhabitants, which a I guess are all very good on handling clothes to keep the dry...!

But on the other hand the possibilitys for climbing ice and mixed routes as well as some very spectacular ski touring when the sun appears, which is actually does now and then. With this in mind and after looking on some great pictures of big walls covered in ice our rental car made it over the border from Sweden and made the route via curvy Norwegian roads to Senja a late night and after a loong flight from a sunny and warm Geneve. Arriving the village of Mefjordvaer the situation was close to crampons just to get up the stairs to get into the Senja Mountain Lodge and our bace for the upcoming week! A five star ice situation, how would the mountains be?!?

Next morning, after a classic Norwegian Friday evening/night with a lot of expensive beer the morning brew of coffey was enjoyed with a wet vuiew of rain outside the window, looking good!

 

After doing the crux, getting down to the car and drive it on the very interesting road over to Senjahopen and down the fjord, the walls of ice showed up in front of us, with a 10 min approach. And with a quick decision from inside the warm Toyota we picked the most obvious on from our point

Ola wishing him a dry suit cover

A very wet ice route which we named "Wet Wiking Blues" WI 4+, four pitches and three wet gloves later we could start rappelling down some unbelievable soaked roopes and back to the house where we entered the drying room full on!

Local weather station, Senja

 

The next morning looked even better, now it wasn't just rain, we had wind!

So what to do? Well two event waterproof jackets topping it with my Torq crux jkt should hold for a couple of hours. Sitting around inside will not make us any happier so on with everything and heading for an other unclimbed strike of ice, well strike of water and ice, well more water then ice...

Supposed to be looking like this sometimes...

...but more often like this But I guess that's why it's so much ice?!

 

A quite long approach, almost 20min, and we was at the base of a easy looking ice strike, heading its way up the mountain, disappearing up in the mist. Only way to find out where is to head it all up, with pockets full of gloves, it's gonna be a wet one again.

Ola on the approach to "flottar leden" - Log floater Route, WI4, 180m

The ice is sometimes so wet that the full length of the picks just dissapers in the muddy ice, with my Scarpas all covered in water. But as soon as the wall steepens the ice gets better and more solid, but the the hands gets a little harder to keep warm instead. Best thing is just to keep moving up, up and up...

Crux on the Log Floater Route

At least the rain changes to snow, but instead the couloir sends down wet avalanches now and then so it keeps us busy at all times

Back down again the feeling of putting the hands into the last pair of dry mitts is more then just a relief, it's unpayable. And the espresso back one at the lodge tastes maybe even better...

Log Floater Route, Senjahopen

Back on again tomorrow

 

To be continued...

//You can never plan the future with the help of the past

 

Mountainpassion

Free skiing Japan, sushi powder

If I was to chose one and only one choice for dinner the rest of my free living spirit, the choice would fall on sushi, even though it's a though one to give up the Moab burgers...!

 

But any way, the raw consistence that the white magic powder produced by the vent jointure by the on one hand Siberian cold dry air and the other hand wet moisture air from the Japanese Sea can't be compared with any other area, exept maybe the Canadian Rockies...

Tree skiing at its best, Goruy

 

The heavy snowfalls of Japan's snow country are caused by moisture-laden clouds bumping up against the mountains along the backbone of Honshū and releasing their moisture under the influence of easterly winds blowing off the continent or down from Siberia. As a result, the region includes some of the world's snowiest spots at the same latitudes, as well as the northern hemisphere's southern-most ski resorts

It's just an unbelievable combination stretch to perfectionism. Just raw powder at it's best - Sushi powder!

A normal skiing day in Hakuba

The key and answer to the huge amount of snow that the northern Island and the mountain range get in Japan is just that unique combination. South Korea on the other side of the Sea of Japan gets about 20-30cm of snow a year, the area around Hakuba gets between 800-1500cm! No wonder that the locals here are equipped with huge "snowslunges"

As long that the Siberian winter stay as it should be, delivering very cold temperature and the air masses meet up between Russia and Alaska pushing the cold air southwards via occlusion fronts the off-piste heaven remains

Sushi, Onsen and tree skiing - Japan...

 

There are a several amount of famous areas to go to for free riding but the two most well known would probably be Niseko and Hakuba. The amount of snow is more or less the same but the terrain is a bit more interesting in the later. With skiing in every aspect and good variation in angle and formations, tree skiing and open terrain.

To get to Hakuba and Happone is best done with a flight to Tokyo, Haneda or Narita airports. Air France and Finnair has very good connections. Then it's a six hour transfer up to the mountains and Happone. So there is time enough to put the ski clothes on while on transfer...

There is a lot of big runs around...!

 

For first timers it's a good idea to take at least a couple of days with a guide since its a big ski area and not always obvious where and when to go. One reason for this is the big amount of snow which also give cloudy weather with poor visibility and big danger of avalanches. The bigger areas of Happone and Guyru is also much protected from off pist skiing while there is less limitations in Cortina. So read and learn about the local rules before you break them. Often it cost you the lift pass.

The ski touring routes are numerous and specially on the spells between snowfalls it's a good oppertunity to go touring. Even when the snow is up to the knees it's just so soft so it dosnt make any differens to plod trough. The biggest issue is the lack of good maps to plan the route. The weather also changes very quick so be prepared to change planes or turn around. The help from the mountain rescue isn't close to the one found Inte Alps so the group should be able to rely on its own!

 

The skiing. Most of the areas are quite low in altitude with runs up to 8-900meters. The sun effect is very strong so often the south faces should be avoided or skied early in the day. The amount of depth hoar is huge with big cristals that easily collaps later in the day.

From the top of Happone, starting from "climbers exit", there is a nice ridge going up to the summit of mt Karamatsu, Latitude:36.69609 Longitude:137.79156. Which gives a lot of nice runs all the way back to the valley, either south or north. . Just remember to fill in the papers at the top before leaving in case of an injury. If not you might end up with a fine from the police if you need rescue or help, maybe not so fun if it's on top of a broken leg..!

Two other nice touring days are from the top of Guyru. Starting from the telecabin and one chair lift to the summit. A 30min of skinning takes you up to the 1850m point from where it's perfect tree skiing all the way down to the valley and the river. Which has to be crossed, so bring plastic bags for the shoes. Then it's a little workout back to Hakuba 47 or it's also possible get direct back to Happo via some small roads on skis. Ending up just below the 1998 Olympic long jumping slopes

And, from the Tsugaike ski area there is also an tour easily reached via two lifts, where the first one funnily takes the route past the top and down on the back side so you need to take a chair lift up again to almost the same place. Annoying but different. A well planned day and you can ski from Tsugaike to Cortina with about 300m uphill and 900m downhill. Take a bath at the Onsen (the second best Onsen) at the resort hotel in Cortina and the five a clock bus back to Happo. For smaller groups there is a lot of Big mountain skiing and first descents from the huge amount of peaks around. With runs more than 1500 mts vertical

The culture. Skiing in Japan is just about that, so much more than just the snowy powder. The food, the easy accessed mountains and the natural hot springs. A day isn't complete with out a visit to any of the big numbers of Onsen and some Kumchi, Sushi or sweet rice bolls

 

When and where

Best time, late December to end of February, biggest dumps often in January

Flight, to Haneda or Narita are the biggest ones

Transfer bus, Chuo Highwaybus, cost about 5000¥. Need to book in advance via Turist information, takes about 6-7h with 2-3 stops

Lift pass, cost about 3500-4000¥/day, there are free shuttle ski buses and night buses that cost 200¥

ABS and Snowpulse packs. ABS ain't allowed in Japan. You can however bring it with but make sure to bring extra handle and tube since its not possible to any new one.

Good places to stay, Hakuba High Mount hotel, Hakuba 399-9301 Nagano, Hakuba phone TEL +81 261-72-6114 and Pension Landpoint 399-9301 Nagano, Hakuba, Hokujo, phone +81 261-72-5886

Good place to eat, Kikyo-ya Sushi Restaurant, Hakuba

Cash and Cards. Some restaurants accept Visa/Mastercard, some don't so it's vise to have cash. Same for taxi use

And, dont miss the Kurashita no yu Onsen outside Happo? The nr1 Onsen around and a little bit different from most others

 

One thing is pretty clear though, it's gona be more trips here...

 

Mountainpassion