A whole bunch of seldom frozen up ice routes are suddenly in perfect nick, or "nickel" aka bonne etat
As always, Cogne deliveres and routes as "Repentance Super" WI6, "Sogno di Patagonia" WI5, "Colonnato Centrale" WI6 and even the seldom totally formed "Hard Ice direct" WI6 is formed. It was also quite close that "Pattinaggio artistico direct" WI5+ had formed up! The weather has just been perfect in an ice climbing point of view…
So we planned a WI6 week and headed to Cogne, via the classic "Nuit Blanche" WI6 in Argentiere
First out, the Nuit Blanche, we headed up an unusual crowded Grand Montet telephrique!=? Which just as we was entering the final stands de cache decided to break down
Finally up at the top of the climb the weather was perfect, blue sky with a shining yellow BIG sun. So why not take the chance of rappelling down in the shadow behind the walls with covered surroundings of glaciers. In the constant background noise of falling seracs!
Cogne, Eau de cristaux WI4
Rappeling down has the advantage of getting a good view of the route, which turned out to be condition superb, including a shower pitch. So just do it!
The first pitch is a nice warm up, low angel to get the calfs waking up
Second pitch…oh its a wet on. The umbrella pitch with big U, at least this day
Arriving the belay i quickly do an upper body undressing show, diving in to my down sweater and just can't wait to get a top in the sunbath tube la Bas
Then, with everything climbed, the only dangerous part saved to last, getting back down the pist to the lift station, oh la la
Poupular or what!? Hard Ice in the Rock base
Early morning i Cogne village
Une espresso double là-bas and off to Cogne. A most snowy and cold Cogne, which is quite calm during the week
But, avoid the popular routes during the week-end…!
oh, la la, approach to Repentance a sunday sunny morning in fevrier
Ice climbers is a bit like birdwatchers, if a rare species is passing or visiting, the alarm runs, same thing when the
word spreads about a rare route in nick. Thanks to all blogger´s !
The greatest line in Cogne; L'Ago di money lV 4+/5b A 100m A totally obvious strike of ice at Valnontey Cogne
As an extra bit of enjoyment the approach is about 1 1/2h from Valnontey, but mostly on, at this time, very good track. No snowshoes or skis neccecery, pure walking. The only hassle is the very ice path caused by the horse sled, caution!
Walking up the valley there is two obvious ice routes that direct takes the focus, Monday Money and L'Ago di Money. Beautiful lines both of them...
First pitch of L'Ago
The first pitch has a couple of meters of thin hooking, but after that it's thick ice, almost thick enough to put ice screws in...a couple of nuts is probably nice to bring as well as some shorter screws.
Risto on following on pitch one, l'Ago di Money, WI4/5b
Second pitch is a short on with no suprises, except maybe that it's very short...and new bolts! Hoppla!
Moss it up, giving a bit of that Scottish feeling, not to bad!
And then the third is actually a bit trickier then it looks, with a short vertical section but very good protected at this time. The anchour was almost coverd under the ice, but since my goal was the upper ice taps I just clipped one of them and continued to full tendu of the corde. A nice belay just at the full rope length at a small tree. Then the last bit to the top, up some steep moss and a briljant ice rideau, le sommet! Potentially a new line at Moss 5 , l'Ago di Directement, Wl5/M5
Upper part of l'Ago, maybe a new line L'Ago Directement WI5/M5
An Abalakov to rappel of from and back down the same way and since it was just about lunch time we had a new focus, lunch...!
But my mind was already on the next line, Colonnato di centrale, which starts at the same place as Di fronte al Tradimento. But gives a sustained lV 6 for the first 80m before it easies off but gives a total of 240m interesting climbing
Colonnato di centrale WI6 Arriving at the base it even looks dry, no water dripping down it. At least not so much. With Repentance fresh in memory which was more like climbing in a shower. This looks...nice!
First pitch is more of a grade 4, I aim on the right side of the upper pillar to put a belay in under the ice rideau to keep out of the iceicles above. No anchour on this side of course so I have to use to of my few ice screws for the belay...hmmm
Risto swings his way up and the war is on keeping the rope out of the dripping water, yes it was wet!
Next pitch looks more then interesting and I can't wait to get on with it. Hooking, weighting on the tools and constant changing hands, its most technical climbing. Just great! But soon I realize that my remaining ice screws, three plus one won't make it a safe one. Saving one for the belay just in case theres no anchour again. But what to do? The focus is on the climbing anyhow and the ice isn't just to good to put screws in to often either.
Since I had been watching the pillar most of the day from our previous climb I had seen that the sun only hit the ice for about one hour, so compared to Sogno di Patagonia this felt much safer and better ice
And, to my joy I find solid placement most of the times, so when I place my last pro just before the last steep section, the next upper part comes with a bit lower angle
Again I stretch the full length of my 55m corde and get a perfect belay with two abalakovs and the ice screw, ready to haule in.
No day is complete with out an Italian style coffe/pattesiere
Equipment
For L'Ago and Directement you need
2x50m rope, ice screws, ice hook, mid size nuts and good ice at the start/top
For Colonnato di centrale
2x50m rope, ice screws, Abalakov key
//Visst måste man tro på turen. Hur skulle man annars förklara sina kollegors framgångar
Stepping out of the van, feels a bit frosty, a glance on the thermometer, -11C. Ok, let's step inside and have a considering talk of the aim for the day...maybe something on the sunny side?!
As usual, a doppio espresso with a creamy hot milk on the side to mix it up and I feel much better.
-Let's stick to the plan, which is walk in, have a look see and head for the route with no other people on, a classic plan that mostly works out fine.
To my surprise the valley looks by quiet, with a couple of other teams on the easy approach ice routes but no crowds what so ever. Last trip had given me some ideas of choice and as I had hoped on the L'Amour retrouvé has no people on it. A 250m ll WI 4 with some interesting sections of chandelles. Easy accessed as well so nothing to discuss, right on!
-will you climb all the way to the summit?
L'Amour retrouvé ll WI4 As so often in Cogne people are truly interested and probably think that those ice people are very crazy folks. We can only answer that, yes maybe if we have the guts and that everything works out the way we hope...
With last trip fresh in memory today's weather by all means show us the magnificent opportunitys that Aosta and Cogne has to give. From -10/15 to a bright sunny day where it's to warm to even have a hat on. Long way from the double gore tex just a couple of days before. Today is a ice beach day!
The first pitch of L'Amour retrouvé is a wake up. A bit sustained grade 4 but perfect ice and just as I head over the edge the sun hit me fully. And the rest of the climb is like a sunbath, perfect divided between the pitches of 40-50m climbing. Just enough heat and distans to cool down a bit and enjoy a nice day on the belay, ice climbing on the sunny side!
Finally we arrive under the last pitch, which has been effected by the bright yellow star during the whole mid morning/ day. The ice surfuis looks a bit dry and now and then chunks of ice comes flying down. But with some trixing it's possible to climb through the soft parts. As usual here we are totally surrounded by the Chamois which as always looks a bit suspicious on us probably thinking that "what's taking them so loong"? Specially since they just push on up and over rock as well as ice with no hassle at all, in a very neat way.
The last pitch is a fully 50m, well ok 48, and I arrive to a as before, ok anchour with a drilled bolt and some questionable second piton, tied togheter with a now days old hammered piece of rope.
A fresh sling on it and I'm ready to bring Mikael up.
Great climbing on great ice, soft and sticky and no one else around, what a diffrens! And now there is fresh slings/rope to rap of from...!
Happy back downits time for a quick lunch, the usual piece of apple and tea.
An other great thing with climbing L'Amour retrouvé is that it's only some 100mts to Sogno di Patagonia
Sogno di Patagonia, Cogne Valnontey
A classic chandelle with the only hard section on the first 20mts, a must!
As before we are saluted by the Chamois and they has also made a good track to follow between the routes. Since, as it looks, we are here first the amount of deep waist neige makes it so much easier to join the Chamois tracks. If you are ready to try will say, they as usual head for the thightest passages, steepest terrain and long jumps between.
Finally, at the base and it looks...stiff but possible.
-what do you think, Mikael askes chouriosly!
-it must go...I hope, I respond and put my helmet on. And at the same time pack my. Sac a dos propperly just in chase...
First couple of meters is a bit of "boulder" easy soft ice to get to the base. Then a bit of hooking up the lower angel section, as it always are on a route like this. Then the vertical, never tricky but just takes a bit of caution where placing the tools...great Climbing!
Topping out on Sogno di Patagonia
Arriving to the "crux" section, where the chandelle has separated from the free standing pillar I carefully place first one then the second axe in and one above the fissure. Sticks perfect, one ice screw above and I feel home. Next placement in a crack in the rock and a piton as a runner. Swinging up the last exposed ice I feelreally clever with bouth tools in some grass/snow taking a last high steep, I up! Hurray!! Saving the screamer ones more...
equipment
2x50m rope, 3-6 ice screws, 3-4 mid size nuts, 2 slings and some free biners. And some go on "anda"
// Det enda säkra vi vet om framtiden är att det blir allt mindre av den Two days after we climbed Sogno the whole pillar collapsed and this was what was left of it! A little warmer weather the days after we was there and...gone!
Big loads of fresh white powder all over the Alps made our front forward plans for some stunning Alpine ascents totally out of the question. After some depressive hours of modern small talk and new planning (read SMS and mail en masse) we headed for an afternoon work out in le Parc Thermal in Fayet which always tend to keep its quality high. Specially regarding the involved access question and it's exposed terrain...!
Boys with toys...Parc thermal a Fayet
Next morning we had our heads turned south and direction Italy and the ice safe Vallèe d'Aoste and Cogne as final destination. Didn't make us disappointed this time either, the high quality espresso, great jambon cru and the Aosta wine... And, there was also ice! But no one to share it with, so we had to do all those number of ice routes just by our self, with out the later in season crowds. And to add to the plus the cold keept us going as well... Arriving at perfect espresso time around 09:30 the temp was around -5 but the next days we had well below -15C
Since both of us are very much into snow plodding we picked the Lillaz Gully route as a prémiere choise. Unfortunate we found an old track going up the hill so it wasn't as bad as hoped for, still enough to keep us waiding up to our waist here and there but mostly not deeper than up to Erik's knees. Which is about up to the hips on me, sort of
View over Lillaz Gully from the parking
Finally at the base of the gully, I warm my toes for a while, getting them heated up and during the time start rigging the gear, asking Erik to hand out the rope. Then he pics up this unsure face, staring to look around and finally admit that it's not here...most have come off during the walk up...
Well, I could make out that he wasn't kidding about this so what to do
Back down the hill, at least now I can work the heat back to the toes. And after a couple of 100rds meter down I see la corda laying nice and neat just before the ski track. And, after some more plodout we are ready to continue with todays goal, climb something. And if that wasn't enough we even had it on film with me behind the camera, what a comic!
Note the rope drop...!
Lillaz Gully
And to my realif the climb is worth every bit of sweat. A nice thin string of ice takes me up the first pitch, never desperate but just takes a bit of cautioun. The route is devided between some steeper ice and mixed parts and some snow filled up in the colouir. but overall a nice 6 pitch climb.
Erik Neergaard at work
Arriving at the what would be the crux pitch, second last one. It looks fairly dry but a nice crack on the left gives good support, backed up by an ice screw at the bottom. With the crack crux fresh in mind the last pitch should be a runner, but some most interesting spindrift makes it harder then suspected. Adding a bit more alpine feeling to the climb.
Topping a dinner at Bon Bec, Cogne, with some fromage d' local
Next day we are back in Lillaz Riva again. With no special goal, just looking what seems to be in condition. And trying to stay as warm as possible in the freezing temperature, which is well below -15C
First choise is a nice looking ice wall that goes over to a steep chandelier, which we with great interest start swinging our axes into. Back home it turns out to be "Stella Artice" WI5 that we had been knocking a fair amount of ice off.
Next goal is on the opposite slide of the valley and "Candelabro del Coyote" WI4/5, 4 pitches
Del Coyote is the route to the left, Tuborg to the right
Again looking much easier from distans but once on it, the cold dry ice gives a fair amount of resistance, hard to protect and difficult to get bomber if any placements on. A workout!
Click
Next morning we take it a little slower letting the sun do some work on the air temp. Loading up the car and preppering the skis with skins before departing. Jumping into the car it feels very "stiff" and tired. And turning the key it gives the answer, a quiet click is all that is heard. The fan whistling in the back ground but no life to the engine. The diesel has frozen solid!
As always the local Italians are more then helpful, and Monsieur Herren from la Barme are soon there to help us pulling the van to the local garage. Not to surprised that a diesel dosnt start on a day like this.
-We had -19 at Valnontey this morning, so not a good night for a clean diesel engine, we have this problem all the time here. I belive him! A know fact with the new clean diesel
With the Mercedes safe and secure in the garage we were keen to get going to get cold ourselfs. So a lift up to Valnontey, since we heard it was the coldest place at the time. And then up to first obvious icefall, just to get some climbing done. And aiming for "Ingnegneria" ll WI4/5
The ice has this perfect looking shape, with the first pitch not just step but a bit tricky as well on the upper chandelle. Two good ice screws and a good belay later I take of for next pitch, which soon sends me a big piece of ice on my cheek. A bit of cussing back on it I continue the climb. But when Erik arrives he looks a bit concerned and drops the news that "that should probbobly been sewn, your bleeding quite a lot"
A handful of snow trying to clean up the face turns it very red, and with something hanging loose on the side I must agree to call it the day. Back down to the village, find some water to clean up and at least put some sport tape on it...what a day indeed!
Fixed up!
Pow pow Stoked
Time to park the axes in tha back of the car and get some skis under the feets before this take a really bad turn. And taking about that it turns out to be a decision of the week, with a big load of fresh cold powder arriving we got more then Stoked on a pow pow day on Helbronner, Courmayeur.
Vallèe d'Aosta, Cogne
It is one of 3 valleys on the North side of Gran Paradiso, which also is the name over Italy's highest peak with the same name (the highest peak which hasn't any borders or shared with France or Switzerland)
The area is famous for the ice climbing but also the cross country skiing and ski touring and in summer it's a lot of people trekking
Aosta is the closest bigger city and the closest airports are Milano, Turin and Geneve
During December and January it can be quite cold since the village is suited at over 1300m, but later on it is often crowded with climbers. So be early specially in the weekends.
It is a lot of different places to stay but on of the nicest is hotel la Barme in Valnontey. Which also has quick access to the climbs up in that valley.
Equipment The area is divided in to valleys, Lillaz and Valnontey. With ice falls and mixed routes up to 600m in length. The belays are fixed in general with good bolts 6-10 ice screws, 7-10QDs, a couple of mid size nuts and cams can be useful 2x50m ropes
Info about ice conditions via Ice climbing Cogne Not so easy to read though
There is a topo from 1999 "Cascades autour du Mont Blanc"
Skickat via Blogsy
