Dent de Tsalion West Ridge

 

Dent de Tsalion: West Ridge

A great classic mountain route in a remote and quiet area of Arolla. A small ski resort suited just below 2000mts

The Tsa hut is a very beautiful small secret with a low number of people. And the nice gardienne, Diana, makes the place even nicer with an approach sympatique and good food.

Dent de Tsalion

Approach

From the Tsa Hut (alt. 2607 m), follow the black pipe uphill through boulder fields (3–4 red marks at the start, then numerous cairns), then follow the moraine to the foot of the West Ridge, which is clearly visible from the hut (alt. 2950 m, 1 hour).

Route

Climb up the obvious chimney at the start of the ridge (grade III+) to reach a notch visible from the hut. From there:

- It is more elegant to continue along the ridge: a section at grade IV (3 bolts), then further on, the crux at grade V (2 closely spaced bolts), though one can easily pull on the bolt (aid move).

- Alternatively, take a series of ascending ledges to the right to reach a secondary ridge on the right, following it until it joins the main ridge. Bypass the massive step of yellowish rock on the right. Then follow the ridge crest, occasionally veering right or left to avoid the most exposed sections.

In the final third, there are a few unavoidable sections (grade IV) on the exposed ridge crest; the rock is very solid and compact but difficult to protect, save for a few strategically placed bolts.

The ridge ends against a step directly below the summit; head right to a notch in the brown rock just north of the summit pinnacle. The pinnacle itself is easily climbed (10 m) via a SE-facing crack (grade III); there is a quick-link on a cord sling at the top. (4–5 hours of climbing; 5–6 hours from the hut)

Descent

* Either (if returning via the Tsa hut) descend the North Ridge (grade II) to Pointe de Tsalion (alt. 3,512m – 1 hour). Then, a long descent from Pointe de Tsalion (red markers and cairns). After the first quarter, the path veers sharply right towards Pointe des Genevois (crossing several gullies); look for cairns/markers in this direction if the path becomes hard to follow (1.5–2 hours). Bring an ice axe and crampons early in the season to cross a few exposed snow patches.

* Or descend towards the SSE to reach Col de la Tsa (alt. 3,309m); a 50m rappel (using a cord sling threaded through a natural rock arch/thread) in the center of the col can allow for a safe crossing of the bergschrund. Then descend the Berthol Glacier. It is also possible to reach the Bertol Hut: at Col de la Tsa, head ESE to pass west of point 3,373 (chain); from there, make a descending snow traverse to the SW to reach the hut.

Notes

* A major climb in a truly alpine setting. Straightforward route.

* If descending via Bertol, do not underestimate the time required.

* This climb is often combined with the ascent of Aiguille de la Tsa (alt. 3,668m; 1.5 hours from Dent de Tsalion).

* The descent towards Pointe de Tsalion involves quite a bit of loose rock over the first 150 meters. However, the rest of the route is not exposed. * Be careful not to follow the bolts at the start of the ridge if you want to avoid the grade V move.

* Bivouac spots: Around 2560m, 150m south of the Cabane de la Tsa, right next to the trail. Running water and grass; space for one or two tents. Around 2750m, on the flat area above the moraine blocks (reached by following the markers toward the base of the Dent de Tsalion). Running water and grass/sand.

Gear

* A few slings

* 50m rope if linking with La Tsa; otherwise, 30m is sufficient

* A few cams/nuts, 4 quickdraws

* Ice axe and crampons if descending via Bertol, or early in the season via the Pointe de Tsalion

Cabane de la Tsa

Dent de Tsalion : Arête W

Approche

De la cabane de la Tsa (alt. 2607)

Depuis la cabane de la Tsa (alt. 2607 m), suivre la conduite noire vers le haut à travers des zones de blocs (3-4 marques rouges au départ, puis de nombreux cairns), puis suivre la moraine jusqu'au pied de l'arête Ouest, bien visible depuis la cabane (alt. 2950 m, 1 heure).

Itinéraire

Gravir la cheminée évidente au départ de l'arête (cotation III+) pour atteindre une brèche visible depuis la cabane. De là :

- Il est plus élégant de poursuivre le long de l'arête : un passage en IV (3 spits), puis plus loin, le crux en V (2 spits rapprochés), bien qu'il soit facile de se tirer sur le spit (passage en artif).

- Alternativement, emprunter une série de vires ascendantes vers la droite pour rejoindre une arête secondaire à droite, et la suivre jusqu'à sa jonction avec l'arête principale. Contourner par la droite le ressaut massif en rocher jaunâtre. Suivre ensuite le fil de l'arête, en faisant quelques écarts à droite ou à gauche pour éviter les sections les plus exposées.

Dans le dernier tiers, on rencontre quelques passages obligatoires (cotation IV) sur le fil exposé de l'arête ; le rocher est très sain et compact mais difficile à protéger, hormis quelques spits stratégiquement placés.

L'arête bute contre un ressaut situé juste sous le sommet ; se diriger à droite vers une brèche dans le rocher brun, juste au nord du gendarme sommital. Ce dernier se gravit aisément (10 m) par une fissure orientée SE (cotation III) ; un maillon rapide sur anneau de corde équipe le sommet. (4-5 heures d'escalade ; 5-6 heures depuis la cabane)

Descente

* Soit (pour un retour à la cabane de la Tsa) descendre l'arête Nord (cotation II) jusqu'à la Pointe de Tsalion (alt. 3512 m – 1 heure). Ensuite, longue descente depuis la Pointe de Tsalion (marques rouges et cairns). Après le premier quart, le sentier bifurque franchement à droite vers la Pointe des Genevois (traversée de plusieurs couloirs) ; repérer les cairns/marques dans cette direction si le sentier devient difficile à suivre (1h30 à 2 heures). Emportez piolet et crampons en début de saison pour traverser quelques névés exposés.

* Ou bien descendez vers le SSE pour rejoindre le col de la Tsa (alt. 3 309 m) ; un rappel de 50 m (sur sangle passée dans une lunule naturelle) au centre du col permet de franchir la rimaye en sécurité. Descendez ensuite le glacier de Bertol. Il est également possible de rejoindre la cabane de Bertol : au col de la Tsa, dirigez-vous vers l'ESE pour passer à l'ouest du point coté 3 373 (chaîne) ; de là, effectuez une traversée descendante à flanc de neige vers le SW pour atteindre la cabane.

Remarques

* Une course majeure dans un cadre véritablement alpin. Itinéraire évident.

* En cas de descente par Bertol, ne sous-estimez pas le temps nécessaire.

* Cette course est souvent combinée avec l'ascension de l'aiguille de la Tsa (alt. 3 668 m ; 1 h 30 depuis la Dent de Tsalion).

* La descente vers la pointe de Tsalion présente pas mal de rochers instables sur les 150 premiers mètres. Le reste de l'itinéraire n'est cependant pas exposé. * Attention à ne pas suivre les spits au début de l'arête si vous voulez éviter le passage en cotation V.

* Emplacements de bivouac : Vers 2 560 m, 150 m au sud de la cabane de la Tsa, juste à côté du sentier. Eau courante et herbe ; emplacement pour une ou deux tentes. Vers 2 750 m, sur la zone plate au-dessus des blocs de moraine (accessible en suivant le balisage vers la base de la Dent de Tsalion). Eau courante et herbe/sable.

Matériel

* Quelques sangles

* Corde de 50 m si l'on enchaîne avec la Tsa ; sinon, 30 m suffisent

* Quelques coinceurs (friends/câblés), 4 dégaines

* Piolet et crampons si descente par Bertol, ou en début de saison par la pointe de Tsalion

Les Tropiques - Maladiere

 

Maladiere in the Valléé de l'Arve

A superb crag thanks to its airy climbing on numerous long routes on generally excellent, well-featured, and grippy limestone. The atmosphere is heightened by the rappel access, which is particularly steep if you approach from Les Tropiques. Sun shines from mid-morning (earlier on Divine Comedy and Cassonade, later to the right of Vade Retro Satanas) until late in the day, even in winter. The cliff dries quickly, except for a few rare seepages, and some routes dry very quickly after rain: Cassonade exit via Gillopettro, Indiana Jaune, Le Temple du Soleil, Cobra-Cabana, Noli Me Tangere, also Vade Retro and No Angel with sun on the first pitch. 

There is a possible "rescue" route to ascend in case of a failed attempt on Eclipse at Noli Me Tangere: reach the large cave of Dante's Inferno, descend directly below it, then to the right, and ascend below the Petite Maladière (beware: steep grassy slopes)

The rock wall is one of the best in the valley for multi pitch sport climbing considering the easy approach. My favorit routes are Indiana Jaune, Vade Retro and Les Tropiques, which now is re-equipped with a fixed stainless steel bolts in 2018. Pitch 3 is a bit trilled bolted, easy to miss the 4th to 5th bolt. It's a no fall zone sort of...

Approach for Les Tropiques

les Tropiques

Take D6, the parking is on the left just after passing la Frasse village. Follow the trail uphill towards "Pointe de Chevran". At the first fork, take the left-hand trail towards "Saint-Jean". Always stay on the uphill trail. After about 20 minutes, you'll reach a fork where the trail is almost level. Continue to the left. At the next fork, take the left-hand trail (yellow arrow painted on a tree)

The path climbs a little further and then descends. Look for a wood sign with Tropiques on it The rappels are located on a ledge very close to the trail, some 15m

Heads up for the second rappel which really need no less than 50m ropes! Otherwise the rappels are straight and easy pull on the ropes and you end up at the very start of Tropiques

(30 minutes approach +/-)

Route

L1 6a+ 35m Pitch ascending left, typical slab with a small crimp in the first part. Some fragile rock in the small roof.

L2 5a 30m Pitch traversing left, passing a bulge that is easier to the left of the bolts. Finish on the ledge, watch out for loose rock.

L3 6a+ 40m Superb pitch, climb the obvious dihedral then traverse under a roof to the left to reach the crack.

L4 4b A short pitch of 15m, traverse right a little, obvious sort of. Belay at some small trees.

L5 A0 / 6a or 7c free. 15m First part traverses left to a good ledge, then joins the A0 section which is easily passed on 5 bolts, after the last bolt a slab move with good handholds to reach the belay above the tree.                                                                                                                                              

 

L6 6a+ 30m Pitch ascending left with a nice crack section.

L7 6b 35m Beautiful pitch, still ascending, with several delicate moves and an awkward rest, finishing in grass to reach the ledge. 

 

L8 2 10m Traverse right on the ledge to reach the last pitch of "L'Écho des Savanes" (Echo of the Savannahs). The original 5a finish is abandoned.

 L9 5c+ 25m Average rock in the second part; be sure to move right after the bolt in the wall.  A small slab above leads to the top.

 

Equipment

2x50m ropes, 14 QD's, some extra slings for the belays

Route history

Michel Piola & Pascal Strappazzon in 1991

Re-equipped with a fixed stainless steel bolt by Michel Piola in 2018 with route modifications 

Arrow showing the rappel

The rappel anchor

Pilier Brand - Solalex

 Here you can find 2 quite remote and beautiful routes on a wild pillar of the South of the les Diablerets

The approach is possible from both Sion and Derborence 1464m and via Martigny, Gryon and Solalex

le Pilier to the right
Red line Tchieu c't'équipe

 From Solalex traverse the Anzeinde plateau and continue towards the Pas de Creville. A little before the col head up the scree slopes to the left towards the lowest point of the pillar on the 2464 side. The routes begins on the middle of the spur, to the left of the big dihedral. The 1st spits on both routes are quite high. To the right of the spur begins the classique "Pilier Brand"starts to the right.

The routes are true opposites regarding protection.

The new route Tchieu c't'équipe is well bolted and the classique Pilier would need a good number of cams and nuts, this one has a few bolts where needed and to show the way sort of.

I can tell it was very interesting and engaging to lead with only the bolts in place as protection...

Pilier Brand Pitch 4

Iconic run outs!!

Route description

Pilier Brand - voie classique

Engaging climbing that can be found difficult to protect well. Expect some run outs but always good belays!

L1 5b First bolt is quite high, can be difficult to see. Upwards, left / right to a good ledge.

L2 6a+ 45m Up some delicate slabs to a piton, then up the corner system with an other serie of bolts high up.

L3 6a+ Straight up some loose looking corner, stay to the right on the slabs, up to a steep section ( well protected) to a belay out to the left

L4 Good start up some beautiful slabs then a corner/layback system up to the base of a big ledge system with a lot of loose rock

Move the belay over the ledges to the single bolt

L5 Up the crack system, some loos rock 

L6 More slabs

L7 Slabs to the summit

Rappel down the same line

Equipment

2x50m Rope

8-10 QD's

Good selection of cams to BD 4

a set of mid size nuts

Anna enjoying life on "Pilier Brand"

Forcing the chimney P7 of Tchieu c't'équipe

Tchieu c't'équipe

Modern climbing, well protected

L1 6a 45 m Take the left side of a large dihedral which deviates to the left. Then cross to the right by an easy ledge between roofs to reach the belay on the spur.

L2 6A+ 40 m A little right up grooves then on the left (slabs) to the belay. In the middle of the pitch, a spit line leaves to the right to reach the path of the Brand pillar.

L3 6A 30 m Short beautiful pitch up cannelures. Belay on a ledge.

L4 6A 30 m Short pitch rightwards, belay at a small ledge below the big roofs.

L5 6b+ or 6A/A0 45 m First fairly easy on some slabs the left and then crossing right to a small arête. 

A few meters up then rightwards over the roof to arrive at the belay (A0 possible).

L6 6A 45 m Interesting and solid climbing, again well protected. 14 bolts

L7 6B 45 m grooves at the start then big crack before an extraordinary outing in opposition in a large air chimney. Optional belay to the right on the sortie of the chimney (allows you to see the second climber), Descend from here or from the descent belay on the other side, on lookers left of the chimney.

Equipment

2x50m rope

14 QD's

P6 of Tchieu c't'équipe

Take care about the cows...