Oct 13, 2019

la Chasse aux Trésors - Mont Oreb

 La Chasse aux trésors is an other great Piola route in the aiguille rouge massive.
It travels up some variated climbing cut in two different halves, 6 plus 6 pitches.
This route is to be find on Mont Oreb, 1h15min on the trail up vallon de Bérard from le Buet, Vallorcine.
Find the cairn at 1702m (46,01205N/6,88709E) and continue up right on the well marked path. This route starts quite far right on the falaise with the first bolt some 3-4m up on a broken slab.
The route Diamants de Sang is about 10m higher up to the left. to find Trésors just walk down passing ¨de Sang¨ towards a terasse of blocks

Approach up Vallon
This is a nice area with a couple of interesting routes which are getting more and more popular. But a good escape on warm days or when its to crowded in Chamonix
(Topo at the bottom of the page)
Mont Oreb
The first part
L1, 5b - a broken slab
L2, 5c - a slab and then a short diedre and a small roof
L3, 6a - Traversing leftwards
L4, 6b - the premier Piola slab, short crux section
L5, 6a+ - Some interesting slabs
L6, 4 - Pass 2 bolts and find a defuse trail rightwards

Walk up some steep grassy and rocky section more or less straight up to the base of a small diedre.
More to the left there is an other route with a lunule.
The belay is visible some 30m above

Second Part
L7, 6c - Start up a short slab aiming for a tricky looking diedre, which are protected with 3 bolts
L8, 6b+ - Traverse right over a couloir to a slab. A small roof up to the belay
L9, 6a+ - a nice crack section white looking rock to the left, 45m
L10, 6b+ - an engaging diedre on soli rock with a spectacular traverse out left to a pillar
L11, 6b+ - Continue up the red pillar, short crux at the top section, 45m
If rappelling stop here, if walking down its an other pitch of 5b with 5 bolts

Makes more or less the same way down, following the same sentier between the two sections, possible to make the rappels in 4 plus 3 rappels, the last is +50m
Take care of left equipment if there are Chamois around!


2x50m ropes, if rappelling back down
a couple of friends C4 size #0.3-#2
8 QD´s plus some free biners for belay

Sep 30, 2019

Moby Dick - Aig de Mesure

Aig de Mesure to the left

Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:
Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!
Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches


After col des Montets continue towards le Buet. Just before the village there are a few parking spots on the right.
Take the first left (horizontal forest road that goes to the waterfall in Bérard), or park in the parking lot opposite (S 1365 m). Take this road for about 500 m. Then take a narrow path to the left (indicated Praz Torrent unfortunately invisible from the road).
This path leads to the head of Praz Torrent (point 1803 m). Continue towards the homonymous needles, then before the path really straighten (cairn next to a very large block), leave it to engage left in the Combe de l'Encrenaz towards the pass of the same name. Climb it back to the best (cairns and chamois). Pass near a bivouac then a large fractured block characteristic. Cross then the scree to join the opposite wall

Time 2h

The start is located roughly in line with the spilling area with roofs in a pretty colored wall.
The original departure is the one on the left. A few meters to the right is a variant for L1 / L2

The original quotations are 6a +, 6b +, 6b +, 6c, 6c +, 7b, 6c +, 6a, 6c +

2x50m rope
11 QD´s
Crampons might be good in the early summer

Take care on the rappels, some are quite airy...

Sep 8, 2019

Voie Bonatti Mazeaud - Petites Jorasses

Beautiful climbing on fabulous rock in a grandiose and solitary environment - Voie Bonatti Mazeaud on Petites Jorasses

Once you have arrived in Courmayeur you enter Val Ferret and continue the road up to Lavachey. Parking the car near the large picnic area in Fréboudze 1650m.
Its Italy, so always start with a good warm up!
Cross the stream with the wooden bridge and follow the path that goes slightly uphill until it meets the stream that descends from the Frébourze Valley. A good marked path.
Now go up the right side of the valley and the stream, follow the meadows until you find little cairns and yellow marks that lead to an area equipped with fixed ropes, a short section of easy scrambling. Once you reach the upper part of the valley, always following the yellow marks and the numerous cairns, you go to the left, alternating between snowfields and stretches of debris. A last short stretch equipped leads to the comfortable Bivacco Gervasutti 2835m. 
Attention because the conditions of access to the bivouac may vary depending on the season. (3h30 / 5h00 from the car) 

From the bivouac go down on the glacier proceeding towards the evident wall, which is reached in about 1h00. The route is variable depending on the conditions and time of the year.
The base of the route...
At a system of easy cracks and corners below the large dihedral that characterizes the climb

A bit og sac hauling after the 7a crux pitch
Anna following on the same...
Work out!

13 pitches of great climbing!

A good topo is hard to find. The most detailed topo is the one on the Danza Verticale website, since the old Piola topo isn't possible to find any more.
However there's no description of the upper part of the face in it. 
The first five/six/seven pitches are very obvious. Thereafter the routefinding becomes somewhat a little difficult. At the end of the corner of the crux pitch there is a belay. You must continue leftwards to the second belay a few meters further and not go straight up if you want to follow the original line (going straight up is also possible and not completely illogical but there is at least one very loose section). 
After that, a good route finding instinct will be at your benefit...

8-12 h

Two options:

  • normal route (north-east ridge to Col des Petites Jorasses) (take all glacier gear with you)
  • rappel using bolted belays: just before the South Ridge ends at the highest part of the face there are some belay anchors. Take the one with two bolts that is just on the east side of the ridge. A few steep (bolted) rappels take you to the easy angled slope. Find the next bolted rappel not too far from where the Bonatti route ended. Rappel further down the bolted belays that take you to the LEFT side of the Bonatti route when FACING DOWNWARDS. So you are not rappalling on the same route that you climbed. From the last anchor above the glacier a traversing rappel has to be made back to the first belay of the Bonatti (where you probably left your glacier gear). From here it's a short rappel to the glacier. 


Very beautiful climb, not crowded, in a wild environment. Bivacco Gervasutti is very well equiped and worth a visit by itself.
Take care with your equipment if you leave any at the bivack or at the base of the route. We had one back pack stolen, but its a demo and its only one made of this kind so it will be easy to recognize :-)

Set of cams BD #05 - 3 (double of 0.5 to 1)
Set of Aliens Green-Red
Small set of wires, small sizes good
2x50m rope

Picture from Piola Topo...the nowadays stolen one :-(

External link