Topos - Climbing / Ski descents

Routes and Topo descriptions

Ak-Su valley Kirgizistan

Russian Tower, Ak-Su valley 

Russian Tower, Ak-Su valley 

Perestroika Crack, the most beautiful crack in the world!? 24pitches over 900mts

Lazy Lizard, new route over 17pitches A direct start up to Perestroika Crack

Lazy Lizard

Petit Tour Rousse, Ak-Su valley

Black Magic Corner 7b+, Ak-Su. With Russian Tower behind

Black Magic Corner 7b+ 8pitches - Ak-Su valley, New route

Black Magic Corner - Ak-Su valley

Leaning Flower Tower 7b,  Ak-Su

Leaning Flower Tower  7b - Ak-Su ValleyNew route over 18pitches

Les Alps - Chamonix

Swedish Workout M6+ at Aiguille du Midi westface

Picture of Swedish Workout M6+ at Aiguille du Midi westface
Rappel down from the bridge and pic the lower line before Vougler route
Thin ice and some good mixte, specially crawling under the small choke stone on the last part.
Finish up arete Cosmique and hope like we did you dont need the improvised bivvy at the summit!
FA winter 2000

Arete du Puterey Integral, the longest alpine route in the Alps
Starts from Courmayeur and finish on top of Mont Blanc. The longest mix/alpine climb in th Alps

One of the greatest alpine routes in the Alps - Arete du Puterey

Voie "Versant Satanique" - Minaret
Arete du Rabouin - Bassin d´Argentiere
"Voie Contamines" Aiguille Midi Face Sud
Chamonix "Servoz"

Grand Montets - Ice/Mix routes Lognan

Borkafjäll in Kittelfjäll in the northern part of Sweden has a big number of easy access mix and ice routes
The routes are between 3 to 10 pitches which some of them takes more then a day to climb
January to March is often the best time to go, a bit longer access if the ice on the lake isn't frozen. Check with the hotel, if it is before you go! Hotel Granen +46 940 811 00 Also a nice place to stay
Kittelfjäll - Borkafjäll mixroutes 

Borgahällan Borgafjäll
A great place for Alpine Adventures, maybe one if the best in Sweden if you consider access and quality
Prepare for a long day out!
Equipment for most of the routes
50m rope, 2-3 ice screws, pitons in different sizes, 1-2 set of nuts, 1 set of cams (for the mix free climbs)
For Vinterferie you need micro nuts, a number of knife blades and LA´s and RURP´s and bird beaks 

Kaskasepakte in Kebnekaise Massif, one of the biggest wall in Sweden, 800m
A long approach and seldom climbed but a great effort

Kaskasepakte Northface, Kebnekaise

Kebnekaise "Skartaåive"

Lunndörren - Jämtland

Lunndörren "Gruvdynamit"

Gruvdynamit går på Sydpasset, rakt upp från Vindskyddet. Nästan högst upp mot passet där man normalt sett går ner. T.h om  leden går det en aningen flackare snö och is tur

Lunddörren ¨Innan Solen Går Ner¨ 

Innan Solen går ner går vid Sydpasset. Tydlig linje som syns väl från vindskyddet. Kul linje som dock ska klättras relativ tidigt på året då den annars smälter bort

Offerdal, Rise - Ostersund

Lederna är beskrivna från höger till vänster - Routes described right to left

Offerdal högra - Right
1 Carpe Diem- Krister Jonson (ff) M6+?
2 Vit glädje - krister jonsson (ff) M8+
3 Svart profetsia - krister jonsson (ff) M8
4 Snurr - krister jonsson (ff) M6+
5 Ändlösa historien – Jimmy Harvardsson Patrik Fransson (ff) M7
6  Projekt - krister jonsson M7-?

Offerdal Mitt 
6½ Pelarkrisen- krister jonsson th om Pelarisen går denna led vilken har två bb i starten. M6
7 Pelarisen – ff? WI4+
8 Campai – krister jonsson (ff) M7-
9 Zubrovka - krister jonsson (ff) M7
10 Totalitär mixär- ff? M5+/WI5



Couloir Vallencant, Gr Montets

On the Urner Haute Route - 2017
Aig. Glièré - Chamonix 2017
Col du Diable - Chamonix
Couloir Cosmiques - Aig. du Midi
Couloir Cosmiques - Aig. du Midi West Face

J B Couloiren - Kebnetjåkka 2017

Vassitjåkka Nordvestvegg - 2017

Kebnepakte Sydostvegg - 2017

Kaskasetjåkka Eastface - 2017
"Central Couloir" Norra Klippberget - Kebnekaise 2016

"Virranränni" - Kebnekaise 2017
Halspasset - Kebnekaise Nordtopp 2016
Halspasset - Kebnekaise Nordtopp 2016

Stour Reaiddávággi - Nallomassivet - Kebnekaise
"Elan Couloir" - Kebnekaise
"Elan Couloir" - Laddjovaggi - Kebnekaise 2016

1 comment:

  1. Hi,

    I read with a lot of interest your artikel on the Perestroyka crag ;-)
    we booked our little holiday in the same direction... can you enlighten me with some topo and other "to-do" information?? thanks a lot!!! my e-mail is