Routes and Topo descriptions
Ak-Su valley Kirgizistan
Russian Tower, Ak-Su valley
Russian Tower, Ak-Su valley
Perestroika Crack, the most beautiful crack in the world!? 24pitches over 900mts
Lazy Lizard, new route over 17pitches A direct start up to Perestroika Crack
Lazy Lizard
Petit Tour Rousse, Ak-Su valley
Black Magic Corner 7b+, Ak-Su. With Russian Tower behind
Black Magic Corner 7b+ 8pitches - Ak-Su valley, New route
Black Magic Corner - Ak-Su valley
Leaning Flower Tower 7b, Ak-Su
Leaning Flower Tower 7b - Ak-Su ValleyNew route over 18pitches
Les Alps - Chamonix
Swedish Workout M6+ at Aiguille du Midi westface
Rappel down from the bridge and pic the lower line before Vougler route
Thin ice and some good mixte, specially crawling under the small choke stone on the last part.
Finish up arete Cosmique and hope like we did you dont need the improvised bivvy at the summit!
FA winter 2000
Arete du Puterey Integral, the longest alpine route in the Alps
Starts from Courmayeur and finish on top of Mont Blanc. The longest mix/alpine climb in th Alps
One of the greatest alpine routes in the Alps - Arete du Puterey
Voie "Versant Satanique" - Minaret |
Arete du Rabouin - Bassin d´Argentiere |
"Voie Contamines" Aiguille Midi Face Sud |
Chamonix "Servoz"
Grand Montets - Ice/Mix routes Lognan
SCANDINAVIA
Borkafjäll in Kittelfjäll in the northern part of Sweden has a big number of easy access mix and ice routes
The routes are between 3 to 10 pitches which some of them takes more then a day to climb
January to March is often the best time to go, a bit longer access if the ice on the lake isn't frozen. Check with the hotel, if it is before you go! Hotel Granen +46 940 811 00 Also a nice place to stay
Kittelfjäll - Borkafjäll mixroutes |
Borgahällan Borgafjäll
A great place for Alpine Adventures, maybe one if the best in Sweden if you consider access and qualityPrepare for a long day out!
Equipment for most of the routes
50m rope, 2-3 ice screws, pitons in different sizes, 1-2 set of nuts, 1 set of cams (for the mix free climbs)
For Vinterferie you need micro nuts, a number of knife blades and LA´s and RURP´s and bird beaks
Kebnekaise
Kaskasepakte in Kebnekaise Massif, one of the biggest wall in Sweden, 800m
A long approach and seldom climbed but a great effort
Kaskasepakte Northface, Kebnekaise
Kebnekaise "Skartaåive"
Lunndörren - Jämtland
Lunndörren "Gruvdynamit"
Gruvdynamit går på Sydpasset, rakt upp från Vindskyddet. Nästan högst upp mot passet där man normalt sett går ner. T.h om leden går det en aningen flackare snö och is tur
Lunddörren ¨Innan Solen Går Ner¨
Offerdal, Rise - Ostersund
Lederna är beskrivna från
höger till vänster - Routes described right to left
Offerdal högra - Right
1 Carpe Diem- Krister
Jonson (ff) M6+?
2 Vit glädje - krister
jonsson (ff) M8+
3 Svart profetsia -
krister jonsson (ff) M8
4 Snurr - krister jonsson
(ff) M6+
5 Ändlösa historien –
Jimmy Harvardsson Patrik Fransson (ff) M7
6 Projekt - krister jonsson M7-?
Offerdal Mitt
6½ Pelarkrisen- krister
jonsson th om Pelarisen går denna led vilken har två bb i starten. M6
7 Pelarisen – ff? WI4+
8 Campai – krister
jonsson (ff) M7-
9 Zubrovka - krister
jonsson (ff) M7
10 Totalitär mixär- ff?
M5+/WI5
SKI DESCENTS
Alperna
Couloir Vallencant, Gr Montets
On the Urner Haute Route - 2017 |
Aig. Glièré - Chamonix 2017 |
Col du Diable - Chamonix |
Couloir Cosmiques - Aig. du Midi |
Couloir Cosmiques - Aig. du Midi West Face |
Scandinavia
J B Couloiren - Kebnetjåkka 2017 |
Vassitjåkka Nordvestvegg - 2017 |
Kebnepakte Sydostvegg - 2017 |
Kaskasetjåkka Eastface - 2017 |
"Central Couloir" Norra Klippberget - Kebnekaise 2016 |
"Virranränni" - Kebnekaise 2017 |
Halspasset - Kebnekaise Nordtopp 2016 |
Halspasset - Kebnekaise Nordtopp 2016 |
Stour Reaiddávággi - Nallomassivet - Kebnekaise |
"Elan Couloir" - Kebnekaise |
"Elan Couloir" - Laddjovaggi - Kebnekaise 2016 |
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI read with a lot of interest your artikel on the Perestroyka crag ;-)
we booked our little holiday in the same direction... can you enlighten me with some topo and other "to-do" information?? thanks a lot!!! my e-mail is timdecort@hotmail.com