Nov 30, 2011

Rainbow Wall free

Rainbow Wall Red Rock Las Vegas Bigwall!
As the areas preeminent challenge the central line on the Rainbow Wall, leading up to the Red Dihedral and summit overhangs. The original route Up Rainbow Wall is a classic!

Approaching the Rainbow Wall, takes 1 1/2-3h depending on the trail finder in you

The climb, 25/11 2011
-This wont go, I just can't see how to do the move...I cry out after scanning the crux.
After getting over the first 5.12 pitch quite easy I thought that the other P up to the big 5.7 ledges would go flying. But how wrong was I!
I climb down again to find a perfect place for a midsize nut, yes! Feels better.
Up again but this time with an other feet move, better balance and...I must do it, no other way. The story can't stop here, after tht approach.
Finding my balance, perfect again, a small crimpy handhold and up up Up.
Yes! Did it.
The next moves is again much easier, and it might just be as written in the climbers guide; "the crux'es is more of a boulder problem"
But quite hard ones I must say.
A bit of challenge to get the hold right, the right sequence is essential.
More like sport climbing. But big fun!

After an easy stroll of the first pitch 5.7, the routes hits as a hammer rolling up 5.12a, 5.11d, .11a
and a .11b before it lays back with two .10 pitches up to the big ledge. Then it's halfway...
It even involves a small 5.7 chimney and two short over graded 5.8 pitches.
The topo Eritrea something about a runout on one of them but nothing to worry about.

on the 5.8 traverse, involves some great views as well!

And then it comes all over again reminding again of how it should be on a big wall route.
The crux pitch. An everything than laid-back 5.12 which might be easier for a tall climber but with my 172 long cm it's a stemming and twisting thing which I this time can see how to do but not just possible to figure out how.
But, as before, there is no other option, just go for it.
This time with the bolt just below, so no worries incase of a fall.
And after a couple of tries it goes!

Nov 29, 2011

Cloud Tower of Red Rocks

One of the most beautiful natural lines to find in Red Rocks, Nevada.

Togheter with its neighbor "Crimson Crystalis" Which is also a well deserved 3star route, but on a lower grade, this pillar is well worth walking up to and you will get the most perfect climb!
Leaving the classic and glassy hotel "Imperial Palace", after a good night sleep in the KZ bed and clean sheets, at 0700 for a car influent breakfast.
2 slices of bread and some water ( real water, not the American coffee)
A nice morning drive up to the red rock scenic route, yes that is involved as well on this. A great 12 miles drive trough... an area that is said to be Very Scenic. More of an unnecessary transport if you ask me.
Arriving in for us a ok time so no reason to force the approach to much.
A bit of route finding trough the bushes, trying to get the best path and two hours later, 09 sharp we stand at the base of this great climb. Cloud Tower!
But not alone, two other parties has chosen this magnificent route as well.
Not so good, but this time I will wait. Because I just want to climb this.
A bit lucky, but the second ones forget their backpack so after climbing up with that to them we can pass.
Looks like we are a bit faster.
One more pitch, 5.8 as well as the first one, which I more or less solo, with out putting any pro to save time, I arrive at the second stand. With a very easy looking 5.10 above.
More people above so I talk Anna in to leading that one.
Before the real stuff begins.
Still a bit confused of the other people on the route since they don't look that confident even on the 5.8. this will take some time, hmm.

Anna B leasing pitch 3 on Crimson

After following on the easiest .10 I have ever explored I arrive on the 3rd belay. And where are the great cracks, over bolted as well...
Anna has the look of just solving the problem of AIDS as well as the energy problem at the same time. She has figured out something, that's for sure.
After some more clever looking, she has it; We Are on The Wrong Route Dude! Next nobel prize to her!
Big laugh, but isn't this perfect?
What to do, just keep on swinging the #5 Camalot and keep on going.
After catching up with the next party on the route they just look at me when I improvise an improvised belay, brings Anna up and they gently offer us to pass them as well.
-has a show to get in time to in Vegas tonight, just a quick one to get some appetite
I try to explain before taking off again.
Crimson Crystalis, don't miss it!

Nadine Bluett leading p4 on Crimsom

But, if you want to climb Cloud Tower. Keep on following the cliff for an other 50-60 mts and there it is.
One more hotel night and off again, this time knowing for sure that we are starting right.
No bolts, except on the belays, and perfect cracks.
With a pure pleasure I find my self jamming up the sand stone. Pitch after pitch.
The route finding is obvious, just follow the crack system.
And the 5.11 corner! What a great pitch!!

Anna on the fingery 5.11 pitch Could Tower

After the 5,10 hand splitter there is a growing chimney. Yes, it is said to be getting bigger.
Press trough and I arrive in an other world with an other perfect .11 crack going up, up and Up

Nov 26, 2011

Getting Sand Stoned

Some classic Cracks up the walls in the US desert
Great weather, as always in this part of the States.
The last weeks we has been able to climb quite frequent up the sand stones.
Here is a short movie from some of the routes

Hope you enjoy!

Nov 21, 2011

a Must Do Zion Classic

"avoid confusing an aesthetic summit with an aesthetic climb"

The easiest and first climbed route up Angels landing is The North east buttress
This one gives both
First climbed all free 1991 by Conrad Anker et Al
It goes at 5.10+ over nine pitches and isn't just a climb. It's an adventure that brings you up great cracks, broken ground and a bit of veggie stuff. The route finding isn't to hard but you need to have a bit of feeling for where to go, but just feel natural and it's there
Even the travers on pitch 5 or 6, depends on how you count
But this route is def. worth doing!

Nov 20, 2011

Bryce Canyon

Weather forecast looked Not So Good, so way not after nine days of vertical work, put in a rest day.
And let the dried out forearms and back get some vacation as well...
After almost getting fooled and go and climb an easier route of just a bit of 5.10, three pitches, we, read I, for once made a good decision, so instead we a headed up to Bryce Canyon and did some American tourist stuff, got yelled at from a museum owner for window looking and got some nice trail walking (not so american touristic, but still).
It's a great national park, as so many "over here".

With it's so called Hoddoos and nice view points it's a perfect goal for a day or more.
Bryce Canyon National Park is named for just one of many canyons which form a series of horseshoe-shaped amphitheaters on the edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau in southern Utah. Erosion has carved colorful Claron limestones into thousands of spires, fins, arches and mazes. Collectively called "hoodoos," these unique formations are whimsically arranged and tinted with colors too numerous and subtle to name. You'll want to make sure you visit when the weather is good. They get snow early here since the altitude is quite high, a bit over 8000feet. An idea is to visit Utah weather for city and park weather in Utah.
Nice area as well to do a bit of
back country hiking as well, so bring the tent!

Nov 17, 2011

Back in ZION

in my opinion one of the best and nicest climbing areas to find
A whole bunch of classic climbs, free, clean and aid routes, it's there!

Nov 14, 2011


Yes, back on the vertical sandstone
Even though they didn't really try to convince people to start climbing at the rest and fly hotel at Arlanda where we started the trip, we kept up the phase anyhow.

Nov 8, 2011

Bydalsfjällen Jemtland

Suddenly the wind stoped!
After a long night with heavy duty strong winds, which were shaking not just the tent.
But after a slow breakfast we, me and Vanja, still decided to at least do a reduced tour around the massiv to get some mountain air, maybe even under the wing!
So, said and done we marched off towards the big open to see what was waiting. And it wasn't just the views this time, it was a bit of entertainment for us both