|Pas de Chevre|
So its time to look over the dragging equipment and maybe repeat some of the technical stuff, like the belay devices and the way of belaying.
|Couloir Spéciaux - Contamines|
An active belayer has many advantages while climbing.
#It makes the lead climber more safety
#The lead climber can relax and climb in a higher level and confidence
#Less stress on the equipment
#Less boring time for the belayer
#More professional and fun
|One very bored belayer...this lead climber will in best case just get a long flight...|
|A very bored belayer, but at least he got a mail or SMS!?|
Also it is sometimes a good idea to have the belayer secured for up-air pull if the leader falls, but there is also reasons not to. When you want more dynamic in the system.
All depending on the route, climbers weight and how the terrain below looks like.
So there is not just one single answer in this matter, put in details it is as complex as the climb almost! And with a "on his toes belayer" its a good source for staying safe.
Or just being bored on the ground, not engaged in the climb and achievement of the lead climber.
With a huge loop of rope around their feet´s and legs.
Always be alert with your leader. The rope connected between you is like a living wire which directly gives an induction of the living performance above. With some living slack in the rope, sometimes more, sometimes less. But always some free rope of movement.
When its time to clip, feed out rope with your arm and take a step forward as well to reduce the friction.
The worst and shitty situation is when I pull up the rope just to be stucked some 10cm below the clip, cause the rope gets tight!
Feel and feed!!
Next, specially with a high clip, pull in the free rope when the leader climb/moves upwards towards the last pro placed. And be observant to start feeding abut again once the piece is passed.
All this make the whole experience more interesting for the belayer and so much more joy for the leader. At least if you like to avoid long unnecessary falls, hitting some rock on the way down...
Petzl Forces at work
Climb safe, and watch your partner!