Aug 31, 2012

Le retour d' Aksu

Just back in the Kirgiz Capital, Bishkek after a most interesting journey in middle Asia
Looking forward to give you all more details !
Thanks for following the expedition so far

Now we are enjoying national holiday in Kirgizistan and a couple of  Russian Piva's

Click the link below to see where I am located. If the above link does not work, try this link:,74.60397&ll=42.8812,74.60397&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 

Retour via Aksu Valley to village Aksi, loaded up...


Aug 27, 2012

....and more summits!!!

Anna, Krister and me ;)

this just arrived....

 GPS location Date/Time:08/27/2012 08:18:14 PDT

 Message:This is an OK message from Krister Jonsson. I am on the summit, on the way back down. Starting the descent.

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:

By Eva

More summits!

 GPS location Date/Time:08/26/2012 03:41:07 PDT

 Message:This is an OK message from Krister Jonsson. I am on the summit, on the way back down. Starting the descent.

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:

By Eva Rimnäs

Aug 21, 2012

More from Krister and Anna

 I just got the latest message. They seems to have fun and climb a lot.

 GPS location Date/Time:08/21/2012 05:06:15 PDT

 Message:Hello This is a message from Krister Jonsson. Having a great time!
To check my position click on the link

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:


by Eva Rimnäs

Aug 16, 2012

...and they have been summiting again...

In Zion on Iron Messiah...

 GPS location Date/Time:08/16/2012 05:12:51 PDT

 Message:This is an OK message from Krister Jonsson. I am on the summit, on the way back down. Starting the descent.

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:

By Eva Rimnäs

Aug 15, 2012

More spot messages from Krister


More from Krister...

 GPS location Date/Time:08/15/2012 07:17:31 PDT

 Message:Hello This is a message from Krister Jonsson. Having a great time!
To check my position click on the link

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:

and this came yesterday:

 GPS location Date/Time:08/13/2012 21:36:15 PDT

 Message:This is an OK message from Krister Jonsson. I am on the summit, on the way back down. Starting the descent.

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:

By Eva Rimnäs

Aug 13, 2012

The Summit!!


Having fun in Indian Creek

New spotmessage from Krister:

GPS location Date/Time:08/11/2012 05:26:24 PDT

Message:This is an OK message from Krister Jonsson.
I am on the summit, on the way back down. Starting the descent.

Click the link below to see where I am located.

If the above link does not work, try this link:


by Eva Rimnäs

Aug 9, 2012

A cold morning in Zion
Krister and Anna has gone climbing in Kirgizistan for a couple of weeks.
They attend to go to Aksu valley and climb one of the finest crack there is - Perestroicrack on the Russian Tower.They will also try to do some new routes!!
Krister will send me short rapports about their trip from his spot - so stay updated and check out what's happening over there. Here's his first messege:

Message:Hello This is a message from Krister Jonsson. Having a great time!
To check my position click on the link

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

 If the above link does not work, try this link:

by Eva Rimnäs 

Aug 6, 2012

Mackøl Og Måsægg

"Huston, we have a small problem, the car has been hit which means that every time there's a bump, the tire gets a little damaged. So we need to go slow"

Well, this aint to bad, cause driving fast in Norway could be expensive!

Better then a hamburger, a North Norwegian classic

After a classic hamburger meal at Empes in Kiruna, we are ready for a couple of hours drive towards E fjord, Stetind.

The plan is to climb some of the longer routes on its west face. But, like so often in this area, there is rain. A lot of rain, often. And the low pressures keeps on passing. Must be a factory around the corner!?

Still we are anle to get one climb done. A variation of "Klubbruta" on Eidertind. Where we climb a 4 pitch route up to UIAA VI with some nice runouts...before rappelling of to get some dinner done.
Next day we decide to go to a little more weather safe area. Not like south coast of Spain weather wise, but the Lofoten area has a bit more stable weather pattern
Leaving the dark clouds behind we hope for some better things to come. Only to arrive a wet and damp Svolvær. A nice double espresso at the most recommended Bacalao. We anyhow decide to do something, rain or not. Even in a nice BMW, sitting to many hours in a car ain't to exiting.
The Applecake Arête on Pianokrakken, a 5+ corner which we should be able to climb even in light rain.

Said and done, an hour later we stand at the base. A 5 min approach from the road and, the rain looks like stopping! This has some enjoyable climbing with a bit of everything, and very easy climbing.

After topping out there is still time left before headlamp time (it's midnight sun actually) so we go for an other classic, Tapir, a UIAA VII.

This is a perfect crack over 25m, hands and fingers. Ends at a rappel anchor.

But, as there is a variation to climb 2 more short pitches we continue to the top, again.

Sunset over Pianokrakken

Vest Pillaren

Next day, after a nightly rain shower, the goal must be the best route on the whole island. "Vest Pillaren" on Presten. A UIAA VI+ over nine pitches up a beautiful rock wall on perfect granit.

Solid jamming, lay backing, delicate foot placement and a nice summit. The route to climb!

We try to ignore the darker clouds around and bring a tail line just in case.

Since there are som people already at the base, we skip the direct start and scramble up to the original pitch one. Not a to bad choice either so better then hanging around waiting sort of...

A short traverse brings me up to base of a corner/crack system that goes all the way up to Storhylla, three pitches.

This is all famous ground, with only good rock. A bit wet from last nights shower but nothing to worry about. Makes it more interesting only.

Suddenly we are above the other teams, so we can relax a bit and just enjoy the day. Which turns out to be better for every minute. The weather is very changeable in this area. When a front moves in over the sea, things goes very fast and in an hour a big sun can be changed to mist and rain.

So when I scan the horizon and see clouds building up, I get the pattern.

No time to hang around so to speak. The pitches pass by and on the last one the clouds are still in a confident distant. The last "pitch" up to the summit are a grassy scramble, not so nice but nothing terrible or dangerous. Just do it!

On the summit after 4 hours of great climbing it takes a couple of minutes and the clouds rules the peak. A good path down the hill makes life easy anyhow and at least it doesn't throw any rain so far.

The only wetness turns out to be a couple of well deserved beers at the Climbing cafe in Henningsvær, Den Siste Viking. Not to be missed as well a the Smoked Salomon or Whale gryten if you are in for dinner! Forget the cost and just take "le addition", specially when someone else is buying:)

Next day, after an other nights rain and strong winds. The decision is made to head for a Gullvika modern classic and a top 50, an other one, route.

"Vår Kåt" 7, a 4 pitch crack climb on solid rock. With the hardest bit just at the start and then a short crux on the third pitch. Before a briljant overhanging hand and finger crack, with the only pas de plus, that it ends to quickly... The route is very obvious since it travels up between the mossy strokes on the rock. Like a lightning zig zag.

Since the approach is a bit long for this side of the world, almost 20 min!!, the crowds never get here. So the whole fjord is only for us. Which is not to be said of every rocky place nowadays on this magic place.
All the new guide books and topos has given the area a whole new status of accessibility compared to the mid -90 when there was a couple of single papers with bad drawn pictures. But on the other hand a bit of the adventure has gone with some of it's magic, replaced by the feeling of a big playground climbing camping overlooked by a the midnight sun. And one or two drilled bolts are keen to get some of the lights on the soon rusty bottom. With this said, the granite is just as good as ever, but for how long...?

"Jamming for Jasmus"
Back in Henningsvær and the Siste Viking there is still some climbing time before dinner. So the test piece looking "Running for Rasmus" on Gandalf veggen looks like a nice target. A 3 pitch 8- route up the right hand side of this otherwise slabby rock face. But this one gives a bit more steep feeling with some dramatic climbing exercise.

An awkward start that cheeks your flexibility brings a couple of meters traverse out left and then up some nice layback and jamming to a surprisingly good belay under a roof.
This roof is the crux of the route, and as it turns out, which would have been easy to figure out, but..., is of the wetter character. The hand jams goes in perfect but since the payback is dripping the holds are a bit hard to keep in place. A desperate feet placement behind finally me gives me time to put in a cam and save me a long pedelum flight back down. Jeess!

Then some nice relaxing hand/finger jamming continues to a possible sling belay behind a pinnacle, with a short last pitch up to the summit.

Herman Hedning
With two days left of the total of six days we have covered 30 pitches, with mostly harder climbing. So an easy day up to Glåmtindtind would be a good project.
The walk in takes about one hour, starting on the old road going over the tunnel at Rørvika. The last bit up close to the summit of Glåmtindtind gives a great view over a big part of the island of Vågan.

Since I have climbed the classic Ørneryggen a number of times we aim for the more unknown Herman Hedning. A three pitch 6-

The start looks a bit wet as well as the rest of the face and it takes a bit of negotiation to convince Ola that it looks ok, just a bit so so at the start.

A short mossy wet section a couple of meters above should be easy to bypass and then the corners above looks fine enough for spending a couple of hours.
Racking up we are under constant dripping from above, maybe rain maybe from just...above. The moss turns out to have an other opinion than just easy, but a high placed cam saves the moves. Then a nice couple of meters of perfect crack, have I written that before? But as it turns out, the only nice meters of climbing.
A good belay on some wet rock, keeps me full on trying to save the rope getting to much of the black muddy moss and other undefined stuff on my new nice and so far yellow tendon rope.

The next pitch gives a stunning trip up some loose rock, with holds that does just hold sometimes and doesn't other times. Keeps me swinging a bit, but not off balance.
And the upper part doesnt look much via careful climbing I just seek the best visible line. Which ends with easy scrambling to the summit and the postbox.

Last days call
Finally a night without rain and the sun is already hitting the tent fabric, a day made for a last classic.
After a long easy breakfast with the feeling that non of wants to leave really the tents are demontage and the BMW packed.

Svolvær Geita above Svolvær is a super classic peak to stand on, even though a big part of one of the summit horns have taken a trip towards the underlying graveyard a couple of years ago.

Second pitch of Englavinger, never underestimate a pair of Lycra

The thing to do is to climb up to the left one of the two horns and jump over to the other, it's a classic, mega!
On a sunny day on a weekend there is always people on the quite easy routes, "1910" 4+ or "Forsida" 5+.

If you chose a more difficult route like "Starway to Heaven" or "Englevinger" you will most likely be on your own, just sharing the anchor for the rappel back down.
Since Englevinger gives some variated jamming and Olas hands already are massacred, it's a given goal. Three pitches up the left side of the cliff.
And with a big sun firing all it's best on us and the face every move is more then dry, for once!

Arriving the summit of Geita

The 6+, UIAA VII- are maybe a bit overgraded but anyhow just briljant climbing with perfect belay ledges, making a good day even better. And with an international "team" of climbers from except Norway and Sweden also France and Italy the cost and Sea could be changed to snow and high peaks and then it could as well be Dent du Géant. Only different is that here people has time to talk to each other, there is no fighting over the rappel anchors and no thunderstorm telling that, sorry you was to slow and late!

Down at the car and Village again we sortie the trip with a kilo of fresh scrimps at the harbor before return E-10 back towards Kiruna and the airport and de parti une nouveau semaine de Adventure...

Lofoten and E Fjord info...
There are three topos, newer ones, over this beautiful area, so the best info are found there. For you that wants to explore this magic place and at the same time start to or improve your climbing a course on the famous NNKS, Nord Norsk Klatreskole, are reckomended.

Via them there is also a lot of info about new routes, places to camp and other useful things. Together with great food and beer at the bar Siste Viking.
This is a place to get in love with and even though a lot of routes are climbed, there are still a lot of new routes to put up.

But, why not start with climbing some of the established 4-star old ones...

Some of the routes and info
"Running for Rasmus" a no.4 Camalot is useful under the roof

For the routes on Presten 2x50m rope are neccecery for rappelling of from Storhylla, other wise there is only one way, to the summit!

In general there are no fixed belays and no bolts, please keep it that way!
The routes are between 4 to 9- with most routes grade 6
Access is mostly short, up to 1h, accept Nordryggen on Vågakallen which takes about 2-3h

During Fridays NNKS ends the climbing courses on Geita, so if you plan to climb this it might be a day to avoid going there

To get around a car is useful, even though it's possible to stay in one place like "Kalle" and climb for a week just around there.

To get to the area there are Hurtigboats from Narvik, doesn't take any cars.
Flights to Narvik/Evenes and also direct to Svolvær via Bodø as well as Kiruna, Sweden.
A nice entrance is also via a ferry from Bodø to Å in Lofoten, if you have time and willing to take the extra ferry cost.

Topos Rockfax and climbing on the magic Islands and for Stetind/E fjord Dancing on the Devils dance floor

A fishing rod is also worth bringing for some sea fishing.

Summit of Presten, Vestpillaren

Magic moments...a view from the coffe table

"Running for Rasmus" 8-

Making fabric

Enjoying the last evening. Time to give some trashed fingers some rest...

Having a great time!
To check my position click on the link

 Click the link below to see where I am located.

Aug 1, 2012

Midnattstur i Kebnekaise, le Siluette

Vy över Toulpagorni och Siluetten

Jeess! En bladbult glimmar till några meter upp ovanför. Lite svårt att se det svarta järnet inhamrad i den svarta klippan som dessutom är täckt med stora delar torsklav.

Efter att under ett antal höjdmeter klättrat under villfarelsen att eventuellt hamnat off le route så växer förtroendet fram igen när ett säkert spår framträder.

Efter en trevlig avslutnings middag på Kebnekaise fjellstation med en veckas alpinkurs. Som innefattat ett besök på sydtoppen såväl som Toulpagorni och en travers av södra och norra kraterkammen.

Så det kändes helt rätt att dra på sig tajts och löparskorna, stoppa ner kritpåse och klätterskor tillsammans med en goretex jacka och lite vatten i ryggsäcken och sen jogga bort till insteget på Siluett leden på Toulpagorni. En av de mest klassiska klätterturerna i Kebnekaise.

Då väderprognosen visade regn från 02-04:00 så hade jag gott om tid så länge allt löpte på. Bara att gasa alltså!

En timma bort till insteget, en knapp timma uppför de 400 höjdmeterarna till kratern och så en knapp timma hem. Med start 22:30 så ska 3h räcka och funka fint för ett natt uppdrag i det fria.

Kvällstur i midnattssol...

En timma höll rätt precis också till insteget visade det sig. Sen lite letande för att hitta och vara helt säker på rätt start. En helt perfekt kväll med ett lätt molntäcke, knappt nån vind och behaglig temperatur. Och, knappt nån mygg, dom som svärmade runt gav mera en upplevelse av liv och utomstående deltagande.

Klättringen uppför Siluetten är av god kvalité så länge man håller sig till rätt rutt, men med lite avsteg så blir det horribelt löst. Lite känsla av byggsats...

Insteget, kolla efter ett par avgångna kvarlämnade kallsipper

På gott och ont för det visar sig snabbt om man väljer fel linje. Men inte tillräckligt snabbt då jag vid två vägval väljer vänster, vilket gör det brant och intressant men snart dessutom en känsla av att jag mera håller fast greppen än att greppen håller fast mig.

Så inget annat att göra än att klättra ner tillbaka och välja rätt!

Molnen kommer och går i form av färg och mängd, lite längre söderut har färgen gått över i lite väl mörkt och ner mot Nikkaloukta ser det ut att falla ett lätt duggregn. Från att försöka klättra snabbt och effektivt försöker jag växla upp och klättra snabbare och effektivare. Att klättra ner tillbaka står inte att tänka på liksom, naturligtvis!

Här och var så sitter det ganska tätt med gamla bladbultar, nån enstaka kil och fixad slinga. Goda täcken på att det är rätt väg, eller att tidigare försök firats av?!

Bästa tecknet är att försöka se var laven är mest bort skrapat. Av de fåtal som klättrar denna led varje år. Det är nog få dagar och tillfällen som det är kö till insteget här.

Ett omtalat parti är Svarta Väggen, som ska vara den svåraste delen på leden (förutom routefindingen) vilken jag verkar ha passerat utan att reflektera nått mera över det. För plötsligt har jag hamnat i den berömda Rulltrappan. En ohyggligt lös rullstensränna men som bara lutar ett antal grader så det gäller bara att trampa på tills dess den tar slut och sen är det några kliv uppåt till kratern, ca en replängd på brant exponerad klippa.

Rulltrappan klockan 01:00...
En kort stund på toppen, lite vatten och bara njuta av ensamheten efter en fin klättertur!

Utsteget, lite brant och luftigt

Yess, le summet!

Sen är det dags för retur tillbaka nerför couloiren och "hem" till Fjellstationen.

Klockan 01:28 rullar jag in över sista spången framsidan av huvudbyggnaden, 2h 38 min t-o-r, inte helt illa om jag får säga det själv...

Siluetten, Toulpagorni, klättrades första gången av Hans Rosipal och Gunnar Santesson 27/8 1938

Omnämns ofta som Sveriges längsta led och Sveriges mesta klassiker, men också som en av sveriges lösaste och farligaste leder. Vilket är väldigt vilse ledande och långt från sanningen.

Vad som är säkert är dock att Silhuettleden är en upplevelse!

Längd 400m

Grad 4

Du behöver, 1x50m rep, 2 om det behövs fira av, ett set kil, ca 6-7 QD's och några mellanstora camkilar