This is a most interesting climb, not often climbed by some non obvious reasons. Often in good shape and nice resting points on the snowfields in between the ice sections.
After scrambling up the last bit of some rock it was time to enter the skis again and sprint up the last bit to the summit, long and boring non ending...But well worth the effort, great views and a superb descent. A 2.45h round trip
Next day gave some bad visibility weather, but no wind. So after an easy breakfast morning I took off for a solo trip up the next classic, the East ridge up to the North summit of Kebnekaise. Probably the highest point in Sweden in a couple of years, ( when the glacier on the South peak has melted down an other couple of meters).
This is a most interesting mixed route which get steeper and steeper with the crux just under the summit. A long determent climb. The hardest bit involves a bit of very exposed drytooling and forcing a bit of cornice and summiting on the very summit.
To get a little easier day I replanned and back climbed to start and hooked of my sac a dos. First planning to ski down from the summit, but the non existing visibility and the difficult of the route made me come up a second plan. No back pack chance! So after leaving the sac at the base I instead hoped to down climb its neighbor route, "Nygrens led" to pick it up on the descent.
Happy on the summit I had to deal with the descent problem, how to overcome the cornice down Nygrens...
After a bit of scanning I finally found a most interesting way around this more then big, huge, thing. Crawling under this mega cornice made me feel more the unhappy, mega un... But the alternative of returning down and over The glacier of Björling's felt even more unspeakable...
Once down on the ridge the way was straight 4ward again. And back at the skis the descent down to next nights hostel in Tarfala made every muscle happy again. Back in the match! A sauna and dinner and a single malted whiskey, thanks to Rafael!, and the body was ready for a 3rd and last effort before some working days of rest...:-)
Kebnepakte, a 10mts short 2000mts Peak. Has some unclimbed mixed routes on its East face.
And its 400mts plus wall was the goal of the day
Up to the first snow field the brain only feels victory of the day, so the next longer steeper section is attacked full on. But again after a couple of meters I step into an other hard patrol wanting to stop progress... Makes me wonder how close it is to skateboard down the thing on some uncontroled bits of ice. It will hurt 4 sure!
More cussing and ?? Im doing here alone? But no time to think of hot chocolate a biscuits in the sun...
To revers isnt an option so some easy working sneaking up the plastered ice trying to get a light feeling brings me up to the better iced up vertical stuff.
A most agrèable feeling to place both crampons in some good snow, over looking the summit fields. The last bit should just involve some easy scrambling and step snow. Before rolling over the summit cornice on top the ridge.
Starting out the retour the vanished sun decides to reappear so I can jump on my skis and ski down a neighbor colouir to the glacier. Probably a first descent as well...Finishing of a great day and three days of vacation with a flight back down to Kebne from Kebnetjåkka...c'est la vie
/Fly what you climb!