Dec 29, 2015
Dec 19, 2015
Wind Sand and Stars - Kolob Canyons Utah
|Paria Point Kolob Canyons|
|Climbing on the Rooster Pinnacle, Kolob Canyons|
|Anna Following on on of many Hueco routes in Kolob|
|Approach to Paria Point|
|The adventure is on!|
|Pitch 4 on Wind Sand & stars|
|5.12 climbing, in a delicate mood - Anna Backlund|
|5.10R Upper part of Wind Sand & Stars|
P2: ( 5.10 ) Up and left via face and cracks to a finger and hand crack below the pillar. Traverse right to a stem box. Left at bolt on a ledge to the anchor. Harder than it looks.
P3: ( 5.9 R ) Long Chimney. Some sparse pro in hand and finger size gear.
P4: ( 5.10- ) Up to .5 & .75 crack. Take a right, traverse face in front of large boulder. Gear Anchor
P5: ( 5.12) Hard stemming up to a piton. Crux is before and after piton. Hanging Belay
P6: ( 5.12 ) Out the awkward V-slot and onto the face via more hard stemming. 2 solid bolts protect the crux. Bolted anchor on ledge.
P7: ( 5.12 ) Long pitch, lots of bolts. More hard stemming to easier and fun 5.11 face. Bolted anchor.
P8: ( 5.10 R ) From ledge climb the dirty crack system to the east to a small ledge where you can face traverse around the large arête. ( there might be a better option of using the crack system in the large corner, but I dont think you can traverse around the arête from that point ) Once around the arête, face climb up to a bolt, then right to a crack, then back left to a piton, then up the stemming corner / face to a crack system in a right facing corner. The crack system will lead to the original anchor, a fixed nut and a piton on a slopping ledge. An other long pitch.
P9: ( 5.9 R ) Face climb up to the base of the left facing corner with large crack.
P10: ( 5.11- ) Climb the crack on the face and crack in the left facing corner above the belay linking them via face climbing. Climb the bolted face above the crack. Climb past the tree and up to an anchor. Anchor = Piton and hangerless bolt. A stopper wire and sling bolt adds extra pro.
P11: ( 5.6 ) Climb a rail out left, then up and back right to a gear belay.
5 rappels off the west face of Paria Point.
At the first rappel, the next set of anchors is to the north.
At the base of Paria Point you can scramble down some 3rd and 4th class ( to the west Im assuming )
or you can skirt the base of the cliff heading south via 3 more 60m rappels. Youll have to fight the rope on your way down, but all the pulls are clean and there is very little loose rock.
Dec 3, 2015
Monkey Fingers - Zion Utah
Monkey Fingers and the Silver Back - two Zion Classic´s
There is a couple of ”best things” regarding Zion Utah.
1, its quiet and slow with other climbers
2, the numbers of regular ”tourists” are low and quiet
3, the approaches are everything that long compared to other Big Wall areas
4, the climbing is just awesome
The canyon holds just as many great escapades and good quality crack lines up the navajo sandstone that for every route I climb I find 2 new ones.
One of the most obvious ones is Monkey Finger and the Silverback at Sinawava. The far end in the Canyon.
With a 5 min approach it one of the most ”get to do” lines in the whole canyon.
Graded 5.12b it sure holds its grade.
Monkey finger pitch is everything then easy, at lest if your fingers isn’t ”rattly” and good on finger and ringlocks.
Even the first pitch, a 5.6 scramble is a bit of wake up as it is often cowered with sand and a bit humid.
Not really a pith for the route in fact but it just has to be overcome.
It is not many places around that you can arrive around 11 a clock at the car park, walk the 5 minutes to the base of the route and with out fuss start to climb 3-star route? With out taking any considerations regarding other parties. I mean, whats the odds about that!?
But at this case it seams to be the standard.
|Anna on top of the somewhat loose Chimney pitch on top of Monkey Fingers|
The Monkey neighbor "Silverback" an other 5.12 route just to its left is almost as just a perfect route. But even more varied as well as a little bit harder and more full on. Which might be the reason why its not climbed and frequented just at Monkey Fingers. The first pitch of the Silverback is an treblous off-with /chimney that leave you untouched. The third pitch
is a huge fight and just continue upwards...
the great Chimney pitch on the Silverback
the Dusty Cowboy pitch, 3rd pitch of the Silverback
Anna fighting gravity on "the Silverback"
Regarding the pitches/rope lenghts there is not much to say. The climbing is solid, good pro all the way except the last or twp last pitches. The route finding is just obvious. When you are up…well your up.
The belays are in place as well as the rap anchors.
|the great Chimney pitch on the Silverback|
|the Dusty Cowboy pitch, 3rd pitch of the Silverback|
|Anna fighting gravity on "the Silverback"|
Equipment - Monkey finger
2 set of cams 0.33-#4, extra 0.33-#1 useful
The last pitch, make a short traverse out right, there is an obvious chimney installation. This pitch is a bit of adventure, great climbing for what it is but could as well stay avoided. In quality matters, but should be climbed in adventure cause.
Descent, rappel the route
Equipment - The Silverback
2 set of cams 0.33-#5, extra 0.75-#3 useful
Starts with a little sandy slope up to a less sandy chimney.
Second pitch is a 25m 5.7 over big features.
For the 3rd pitch make a 15m traverse left. From here it is often sandy, but very good climbing.
Descent, rappel the route (from the traverse ledge it is possible to continue straight down the wall to an other rap anchor.
//Je vu le peurs...a perte au pire. Il efface me pas..
Nov 26, 2015
El Capitan West Face
A hike up to the bace of el Cap to get to routes as the Nose is an easy stroll over a couple of minutes.
Which also means that it seems a big number of people trying to ascend routes like the Nose, even if they don't have anything to do there. Meaning you can be hooked up behind a number of teams in a line of just waiting.
But there is a couple of routes which are less known and harder to get to, like the West Face on el Cap.
A brilliant route over 19 pitches. But suited on the far end of the wall being hit with little sun and a little more adventurous to get to with not even a spectacular name it sees much less traffic. The climbing is typical for the area, full on with most of everything. But always well protected, most of the time at least. You should be stabile at the grade and to finish the route in a day, including the 2hour descent back to valley, you have to be quite quick.
But the weather was typical Californian, sunny and dry, so we could focus on our main goal, climbing. After packing up the packs we stored the food away in one of all the bear boxes and drove to the melonée. Parked the car and started the hike up towards El Cap. Finding the way up was as easy as we thought and soon we stood at the base of the climb. But where was it? The only thing I saw was a blank wall that looked more or less impossible to place any pro and super hard to climb. The first bit was said to be 5.5. And to me that is pretty close to walking, but this!! We saw a couple of bolts high up on the face but getting to them just looked impossible. I just lost interest and after a big bite of cussing decided to walk of it. Sending us back down to the car and changing goals for the day, climbing something totally else. But since this was Yosemite, finding a route to climb is not difficult.
But, walking of the previous route could not leave me untouched. I was furious about it and could not stop thinking of that West Face route. I must have missed something obvious!
After doing a little more investigating I talked Anna back into giving it a new and this time harder try.
Now a bit more relaxed since we had cheeked out from the Pines and had a much nicer camping spot just outside the park. To get a little more relaxed climb wise we took a tour up Rostrum North Face in between.
And a couple of days later we where back at el Cap parking lot.
|Second pitch on West Face/Photo alpinemadness/Arkiv|
Over all the West Face of El Capitan is a most spectacular and solid free climb. With pitches 2, 8 and 13 as the most memorable ones. A must on the tick list!"
50m rope, one set of cams 0.33-#3 ( extra of mid size), 1 set of nuts (off set useful), 10 QD's (a couple of extendable useful).
There are fixed belays on most of the pitches but not always obvious. As on pitch 6 and after the travers on pitch nine.
P2 35m 5.11c
P3 40m 5.10a
P4 20m 5.5
P5 40m 5.10a
P6 25m 5.10a
P7 40m 5.11c
P8 35m 5.11c
P9 45m 5.7
P10 45m 5.10b+
P11 48m 5.10b
P12 35m 5.9
P13 35m 5.9
P14 40m 5.10d
P15 45m 5.10
P17 40m 5.7
P18 40m 5.6
P19 35m 5.5
P20 60m 5.8
P21 4th class to summit
Nov 16, 2015
Rostrum North Face - a Classy Classic Climb
Rostrum North Face - Classic Yosemite Granite Crack Climb.
Four weeks of climbing and a little more then 200rope lengths, so far.
Pretty good specially since the sunny Californian weather has included more rain and snow then I have experienced during all my weeks and months I have had in Les Etat-Unis in total!
The rapports of flooding and lack of sun have been number one news on Fox each and every day...
Our last couple of days in Big Wall County of Yosemite we had a good number of great climbs with the nine pitch route at Rostrum North Face being the highlight.
The North Face of Rostrum is a very obvious and almost scenic pillar watching over the entrance to the valley. Maybe even a little bit obscure, if you got that look in your eyes!
If the upper approach is used it is very straight forward to get to the base of the climb. Just park the car at the end of the long stone wall west of the Wawona tunnel on highway 41. Hike down the slabs following a well marked trail. Only the last bit is a bit awkward, to some good bolted rappel anchors. 3-4 rappels, depending on how long ropes of have, brings you to the bottom of the north face. Steep a couple of meters left and your at the start of pitch one. A nice crack system with moderate climbing...until the chimney is reached that is! But a well placed hole in the rock makes it possible to do a thread before exiting the chimney up to the belay. The rest is just pure fun and great climbing. Always on good pro. The last offwidh pitch is easily passed with a couple of layback moves, just make sure that you move, leep-frogging, the "big piece cam" upwards and finally just take it out and mantle up to the top of pitch nine. If it feels doubtsome, it's possible to make a placement out right with some mid size Alien. But whatever you do don't leave the cam in the big crack. That will send it to the rest of all the lost pro at the cam graveyard deep in the crack.
"We had a windy night just outside the park entrance at hwy 140. Camp 4 was all overcrowded and after a couple of nights at the terrible campsites at "the Pines", which was full as well. We decided that we had it regarding smoke, camper vans and diesel aggregates. We fled the valley and camped outside the spectacle.
Waking up below a blue sky, but with a shooting hard wind and a freezing temp. Could this be our day for a north face climb up a hard pillar?!
Well, starting up the day with some good coffee always makes things better. Improving the outcome sort of. But this very morning it was hard just to get the stove working and keeping the windshield at place, because of the hard breezing winds. Finally we retreaded back inside to the car and had our morning sandwich nicely behind the steering wheel, with some calming country music playing. Did we had any second planes like plan B or even C?
Well, fact is, we both had our brains focused and would really like to put our worked out fingers into the famous cracks of Rostrum.
So after an hour or two we anyhow stood at the stonewall, car parked and packs packed with equipment for a great day of climbing.
Three rappels later, passing a Japanese team on the way, we stood at the base and I took off up the easy and nice warm up first pitch, a moderate 5.7. But everything suddenly changed when I realized I had to overcome a chimney to reach the belay station...thinking that this ain't possible, but instead ignoring the wind and cold temperatures I just focus, actually start thinking climbing. And thereafter it just flows. The wind calms down and so do I.
When Warren Harding went up the same route in 1962 with Glen Denny it was one of many great first descents that Harding was involved in. The Nose on El Captain the most famous one.
But the "Wall of the Early Morning Light", El Caps biggest highest rock face, and 27 days on the wall, ignoring the rangers willingness to rescue them, Harding and Dean Caldwell, from the face after a four day Californian storm, made them the hard men of the state!
I don't feel like any of the classic hard men, just fighting myself upwards on spectacular cracks, fingers, hands and offwidh, on modern pro. Long away from old wood pitons.
Happily to threw in an Alien or a BD cam here or now I jam myself upwards, in total respect of these guys like Peter Crofts and Alex Honnold who has soloed this thing unroped!
I guess we all have our crux on a climb like this. But to me the eight pitch was the hardest one, a wild steep finger to hand to layback piece of rope length had me working as hard as possible. Finally at the belay we just had to have a go on the roof, the spectacular "Alien pitch"
Famous last words, get out and do it and it will be awesome!"
Rostrum North Face - Yosemite Valley
First ascent Warren Harding/ Glen Denny 1962
60m rope or 2x50m
Cams 2set 0.5- 2" (Green Alien-#3BD) 1 #4" BD
1 set of nuts
//I ljuset av verkligheten får medvetandet sin utveckling