Oct 13, 2019

la Chasse aux Trésors - Mont Oreb

 La Chasse aux trésors is an other great Piola route in the aiguille rouge massive.
It travels up some variated climbing cut in two different halves, 6 plus 6 pitches.
This route is to be find on Mont Oreb, 1h15min on the trail up vallon de Bérard from le Buet, Vallorcine.
Find the cairn at 1702m (46,01205N/6,88709E) and continue up right on the well marked path. This route starts quite far right on the falaise with the first bolt some 3-4m up on a broken slab.
The route Diamants de Sang is about 10m higher up to the left. to find Trésors just walk down passing ¨de Sang¨ towards a terasse of blocks

Approach up Vallon
This is a nice area with a couple of interesting routes which are getting more and more popular. But a good escape on warm days or when its to crowded in Chamonix
(Topo at the bottom of the page)
Mont Oreb
The first part
L1, 5b - a broken slab
L2, 5c - a slab and then a short diedre and a small roof
L3, 6a - Traversing leftwards
L4, 6b - the premier Piola slab, short crux section
L5, 6a+ - Some interesting slabs
L6, 4 - Pass 2 bolts and find a defuse trail rightwards

Walk up some steep grassy and rocky section more or less straight up to the base of a small diedre.
More to the left there is an other route with a lunule.
The belay is visible some 30m above

Second Part
L7, 6c - Start up a short slab aiming for a tricky looking diedre, which are protected with 3 bolts
L8, 6b+ - Traverse right over a couloir to a slab. A small roof up to the belay
L9, 6a+ - a nice crack section white looking rock to the left, 45m
L10, 6b+ - an engaging diedre on soli rock with a spectacular traverse out left to a pillar
L11, 6b+ - Continue up the red pillar, short crux at the top section, 45m
If rappelling stop here, if walking down its an other pitch of 5b with 5 bolts


Descent
Makes more or less the same way down, following the same sentier between the two sections, possible to make the rappels in 4 plus 3 rappels, the last is +50m
Take care of left equipment if there are Chamois around!

Equipment

2x50m ropes, if rappelling back down
a couple of friends C4 size #0.3-#2
8 QD´s plus some free biners for belay

Sep 30, 2019

Moby Dick - Aig de Mesure

Aig de Mesure to the left

Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:
Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!
Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches


Approche

After col des Montets continue towards le Buet. Just before the village there are a few parking spots on the right.
Take the first left (horizontal forest road that goes to the waterfall in Bérard), or park in the parking lot opposite (S 1365 m). Take this road for about 500 m. Then take a narrow path to the left (indicated Praz Torrent unfortunately invisible from the road).
This path leads to the head of Praz Torrent (point 1803 m). Continue towards the homonymous needles, then before the path really straighten (cairn next to a very large block), leave it to engage left in the Combe de l'Encrenaz towards the pass of the same name. Climb it back to the best (cairns and chamois). Pass near a bivouac then a large fractured block characteristic. Cross then the scree to join the opposite wall

Time 2h

The start is located roughly in line with the spilling area with roofs in a pretty colored wall.
The original departure is the one on the left. A few meters to the right is a variant for L1 / L2


Grading
The original quotations are 6a +, 6b +, 6b +, 6c, 6c +, 7b, 6c +, 6a, 6c +

Materiel
2x50m rope
11 QD´s
Crampons might be good in the early summer






Summet!
Take care on the rappels, some are quite airy...
//

Sep 8, 2019

Voie Bonatti Mazeaud - Petites Jorasses

Beautiful climbing on fabulous rock in a grandiose and solitary environment - Voie Bonatti Mazeaud on Petites Jorasses


ROAD ACCESS:
Once you have arrived in Courmayeur you enter Val Ferret and continue the road up to Lavachey. Parking the car near the large picnic area in Fréboudze 1650m.
Its Italy, so always start with a good warm up!
APPROACH:
Cross the stream with the wooden bridge and follow the path that goes slightly uphill until it meets the stream that descends from the Frébourze Valley. A good marked path.
Now go up the right side of the valley and the stream, follow the meadows until you find little cairns and yellow marks that lead to an area equipped with fixed ropes, a short section of easy scrambling. Once you reach the upper part of the valley, always following the yellow marks and the numerous cairns, you go to the left, alternating between snowfields and stretches of debris. A last short stretch equipped leads to the comfortable Bivacco Gervasutti 2835m. 
Attention because the conditions of access to the bivouac may vary depending on the season. (3h30 / 5h00 from the car) 

ACCESS TO PETITES JORASSES
From the bivouac go down on the glacier proceeding towards the evident wall, which is reached in about 1h00. The route is variable depending on the conditions and time of the year.
The base of the route...
START
At a system of easy cracks and corners below the large dihedral that characterizes the climb






A bit og sac hauling after the 7a crux pitch
Anna following on the same...
Work out!


ROUTE
13 pitches of great climbing!

A good topo is hard to find. The most detailed topo is the one on the Danza Verticale website, since the old Piola topo isn't possible to find any more.
However there's no description of the upper part of the face in it. 
The first five/six/seven pitches are very obvious. Thereafter the routefinding becomes somewhat a little difficult. At the end of the corner of the crux pitch there is a belay. You must continue leftwards to the second belay a few meters further and not go straight up if you want to follow the original line (going straight up is also possible and not completely illogical but there is at least one very loose section). 
After that, a good route finding instinct will be at your benefit...

TIME
8-12 h

Descent
Two options:

  • normal route (north-east ridge to Col des Petites Jorasses) (take all glacier gear with you)
  • rappel using bolted belays: just before the South Ridge ends at the highest part of the face there are some belay anchors. Take the one with two bolts that is just on the east side of the ridge. A few steep (bolted) rappels take you to the easy angled slope. Find the next bolted rappel not too far from where the Bonatti route ended. Rappel further down the bolted belays that take you to the LEFT side of the Bonatti route when FACING DOWNWARDS. So you are not rappalling on the same route that you climbed. From the last anchor above the glacier a traversing rappel has to be made back to the first belay of the Bonatti (where you probably left your glacier gear). From here it's a short rappel to the glacier. 

Remarques

Very beautiful climb, not crowded, in a wild environment. Bivacco Gervasutti is very well equiped and worth a visit by itself.
Take care with your equipment if you leave any at the bivack or at the base of the route. We had one back pack stolen, but its a demo and its only one made of this kind so it will be easy to recognize :-)

Matériel 
Set of cams BD #05 - 3 (double of 0.5 to 1)
Set of Aliens Green-Red
Small set of wires, small sizes good
2x50m rope








Picture from Piola Topo...the nowadays stolen one :-(

External link

Aug 18, 2019

Höjdsjuka, symptom och förebyggande behandling

Med ökande höjd så sjunker lufttrycket. Ett måttligt sänkt lufttryck spelar dock mycket liten roll för helt friska personer. Men när höjden över havet passerar 2400 meter kan anpassningen emellertid ta längre tid, vilket kan medföra att man drabbas av så kallad höjdsjuka. 3-3500m brukar för de flesta vara en kritisk gräns. Höjdsjuka beror på att balansen mellan vävnadsvätskan innanför och utanför kroppens celler påverkas av ett lägre lufttryck så  andelen vävnadsvätska utanför kroppens celler till att börja med ökar. Benägenheten att utveckla höjdsjuka är mycket individuell och det finns inget påvisat samband med fysisk kondition eller ålder vad gäller anpassningsförmåga till höjd, i för övrigt friska personer.

Klättring på hög höjd, Alpamayo "French Direct"

Symtom och behandling

En ökad mängd vätska utanför cellerna i hjärnan orsakar till att börja med vagt illamående, svaghet och dunkande huvudvärk.
Det får inte plats mer ön en viss mängd vävnadsvätska innanför ett oeftergivligt skallben. 
En Diamoxtablett lindrar besvären tillfälligt men kan i värsta fall maskera en försämring. 
Diamox (acetazolamid) kan skrivas ut på vanligt recept i Sverige även om preparatet inte finns i FASS.
Det används vanligen som ögonmedicin och ges för att minska på trycket av ögat. 
Om höjden ökar ännu mer förvärras de nyss nämnda besvären och kräkningar tillstöter när hjärnan pressas samman. Det kan kännas mycket tungt bara att gå och huvudvärken blir mycket intensiv. Den flyttas från främre delen av pannloben till baksidan av skallbenet. Och ger en dunkande plågsam smärta. 
Minskad balans och oförmåga att gå i en rak linje är synnerligen allvarliga tecken. De som trots detta inte återvänder till lägre höjd får också ökad mängd vätska i lungorna och riskerar bokstavligt talat att "drunkna" invärtes.
På mycket hög höjd (över 6000 meter) räcker inte lufttrycket till för att ens förse kroppen med syre och då tillkommer andra besvär.
En syremätare kan vara en bra investering för att hålla koll på  din acklimatisering

Förebyggande behandling

Lugn acklimatisering - stanna 2-3 dygn på 2400-3000 m höjd och ta sedan bara 300 m/dygn. Undvik extrem ansträngning och håll ner pulsen. Sov på så låg höjd som möjligt. Ät täta men små måltider och drick rikligt med vätska. 
Diamox kan användas i förebyggande syfte men har ibland biverkningar i form av yrsel och illamående. Speciellt brukar det bli en pirrande känsla i fingertopparna.  Dosen bör vara så låg som möjligt – 1-1/2 tablett à 125 mg morgon och kväll brukar räcka.

Vilka bör undvika hög höjd?
De som har avancerad blodbrist, kärlkramp, hjärtbesvär med nedsatt fysisk förmåga och/eller de som har nedsatt lungfunktion (KOL) bör/skall undvika hög höjd. Individer med vissa ärftliga blodsjukdomar (ex sickle cell sjukdom) skall inte heller utsätta sig för hög höjd.


DIAMOX FÅR ABSOLUT INTE ANVÄNDAS FÖR ATT NÅ ÄNNU HÖGRE HÖJD TROTS BESVÄRANDE HUVUDVÄRK OCH ILLAMÅENDE. RISKEN FÖR ÖKAD MÄNGD VÄTSKA I LUNGORNA OCH SNABB DÖD FINNS FORTFARANDE KVAR. BÄSTA OCH ENKLASTE BOTEN MOT ALLA FORMER AV HÖJDSJUKA ÄR ATT OMEDELBART ÅTERGÅ TILL LÄGRE HÖJD.

Jul 17, 2019

Clocher du Tacul

Clocher du Tacul
A great little route up in the middle of the great Massif du Mont Blanc. Six pitches of relaxed climbing on mostly perfect granit, once the first section from the glacier over the fist blocks are made.
A route that is reached in some 45min/1h from the Helbronner lift and usually never crowded with people
The third pitch is the mist eye-catching one, but over all the four last pitches are of great quality
Specially impressive is pitch five, the Giljotin pitch!


Approache

Go up Maudit Combe and join the base of the base of clocher of Tacul. The route attacks on the right of the pillar. This can be reached from either aig. du Midi or Helbronner. We took the Panoramique from Midi to Helbronner, which gave us a reason to have a relaxed Italian espresso on the way home
Join R0 (relay on spits), comfortable terrace, after the bergschrund and a few blocks
the approach...

Itinerary

Start up some loose looking rocks up to a single spit 
From here slent up/rightwards below an other spit, don’t go to that one!, passing the formations more right behind a corner. Belay on spits 5b

Up again over loose looking rocks, easy scrambling straight up and then right to the base of the big corner/dihedral. Spits 5b

Climb the corner. Belay on spits 6b

Climb the corner, pass the blocks and then step out to the thin vertical crack. Climb this to a spit and then climb back right, airy step, up to a belay. Short crux, 35m. Belay on spits 6c

The Giljotine pitch
Climb some steep sections, then an airy traverse out left passing a spit and continue up just below a section of white rock. Belay on 2 spits. 6a+

The white pitch

Continue up some wide cracks. Mostly on easy ground. A full pitch up to the abseils, the anchor of Empire State 6b+
the great corner, 6b
Anna following on the same
Just finishing the Giljotin pitch, second last pitch, 6a

Equipment

2x50m rope, for the rappel
1 smal set of nuts
Blue to Red Alien x 2
#0.75-3 BD x 2
#4  BD
Piolet/Crampons/ice screw for the glacier


















// kristerjonsson.se

Jul 9, 2019

la Chandelle - Bonatti-Tabou

The combination of the Bonatti and Tabou routes is a logical route to the summit of the Tacul Candle. Although we talk about average and moderate difficulty, climbing and what is nice and sometimes supported. A beautiful route taking place on a superb granite, not to be missed!

Route marked in black dots
Looking for an easier acclimatization route in the higher massif, a preparation for a bigger climb in the Mont Blanc massiv we chose the classic Bonatti-Tabou on Chandelle.
Chandelle is easily accessed from the Helbronner lift, mostly downhill on the glacier. And if you, as we did, start from aiguille du Midi, it also include the panoramic traverse in the small 4 seat tele cabins crossing the Vallee Blanche. An experience in it self!
Relaxed approach!
After 3 weeks on canicule, the Sahara heat air flow that has been hitting most of the southern parts of Europe. With temps up to +11 degrees on the summit of Mont Blanc!! But suddenly we experienced some cooler days and standards was getting back to normal. Which meant minus celsius degres during the night and frozen snow in the mornings. Something that also makes the rock bit more stable. So we could start to look on the high alpine routes again.
Taking the early bin up from Chamonix, with the nowadays regular turists that has invaded not only Chamonix. But for sure, climbers (like the real climbers and not Mont Blanc tourists and forest scramblers around Brevent) are starting to be a rear sight in town....but at least they smell, well not good (flooded with parfyme) but better.
Then once at top of Midi we hike over at get into a private cabin on the Italian traverse. An impressive installation even these days!

A quick espresso stop before we make the 1hour hike to the base of Chandelle. And as most of the climbs that takes a bit of effort to get to we are almost alone. Only one team infront of us, and a friendly team it turns out with to British colleagues, which makes the climbing more than just a beautiful day out on this perfect French Chamonix granit, it breaks out in a social escapade as well!!
the first 6b pitch, short and hard
To keep this short, this route is again one of many most do classics in the Mont Blanc Massif. Established by Walter Bonatti and Roberto Gallieni 1960. Gallieni who was with the team of Bonatti on the Freney Pillar the year after, an ascent in which four people died.
Anna Backlund following on the same...

The Route

L1 5c 35 m Climb over the belay and cross left on a ledge to reach a dihedral. Climb the dihedral and come up against a large block that is bypassed to the left. R1 just above the foot of a dihedral-crack.
L2 6b 20 m Refit the dihedral-crack (crack with fingers and many in situ protection). Short but intense climbing.
L3 5c 40 m Start to the left of the belay (Do not engage in the beautiful crack right above the belay, White Line track) Go up to the left the dihedral largely cracked up to come up against under a little suplomb. Circumvent it on the right.
L4 6a + 45 m Two options for the start: go up the dihedral above the relay or take a slight right on the slab (1 peak). Then cross to the right and go back to the easiest towards an imposing dihedral to the foot of an imposing dihedral, which is lying in the shade during the first half of the day (spits).
L5 5b 10 m Short horizontal traverse on the left.
L6 6b + 35 m Raise a thin flake until you come to a stop under a small overhang which is rounded to the left. Cross slightly to the left and take a walk on a slab. Climb a thin crack with delicate protection, provide small jams and Aliens for the start on the shell.
L7 6a 40 m Over the Belay, wind up a system of cracks until you reach a small ledge. There, cross left with the help of a horizontal crack (forming a small ledge) to reach a chimney-dihedral (visible upper left from R6). Do not climb the chimney-dihedral which heads rightwards.
Et Voila!
Rappel the same route

Top pitch 


Equipment

Double sets of cams, Aliens Green to Red & 0.75 to 3 Camelot's (2 x 0.75-2)
A small set of small wires up to #5 DMM
8 Quick draws
2x50m rope (single rope and tail line)
Ice axe and, if its solid frozen snow, crampons
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/56596/fr/chandelle-du-tacul-combinaison-bonatti-tabou


// alpinemadness.se