Dec 31, 2013
Happy new Year to all of you passionated mountaineers !
Dec 19, 2013
Nant Fandraz - 400m WI5
Since the winter has started with low temperatures the ice conditions has turned out to be more than good
And togheter with the low amount of snow the approaches as well as the danger of getting avalanched is low as well. There fore many exposed ice routes is quite safe to approach and climb at the moment.
One of these is the ones up in the gorges above les Contamines, Nant Juaune, Fandraz and le Tremplin. All which a in good conditions at the moment.
After a ski tour up to mont Joly I just hooked on the plan to pack my light weight Ozone wing and go for a speed ascent of Fandraz. It just looked like a perfect goal and would bring a nice flight as well in my opinion at least...
Early morning and a look at "paragliding map" gave the answer that the wind was to strong and from the wrong direction. Bit nothing worse than I could do with an other coffee and perform a bit of "office work"
An hour later the sun was up there shining but the winds kept on it forces as well. But as the patience got lower I still just decided to give it a go. The extra weight of the glider, 1.2kilograms, is just nothing to fuzz about and it would still be a nice day outside
Driving up to the village with all the inspiring mountains around makes the day even "en plus" and togheter with some good country music in the speakers the mood is a top
The approach turns out to be a pure satisfaction, 20min of walking and I'm at the base of the gorge and a couple of 100mts of canyoning up the gorge brings me to the foot of the ice.
Time to start swinging!
Except for a couple of chamois I'm just by my self today, just foot prints from the ice team I saw wo days ago and nothing else
The climbing is easy on soft ice, with the only hazard of quite big stones that comes tumbling down the colouir now and then. Mostly then actually.
20 min approach and 1.40min climbing takes me to the summit slopes of T Orient and Mont Joly, with almost no wind...time for a bit of relaxing and dejuner in the sun. Finishing the water bottle and a pice of baguette
Then part 2 starts with a comfy descent with my Miniwing back down to the parking, almost landing at the back of my Ford
/Cruxet med självförtroende är att man måste känna sig så jävla mycket bättre än alla andra...
Dec 15, 2013
Offerdal - mixed up place
An other great route is Svart profetsia - M8 and "Pelarkrisen" and the hard starting "Campai" M7And, when it is formed "Carpe Diam" M6+, is just a great climb at almost a full 50m pitch, long and demanding on own pro!
To get hereFrom Östersund is about 45 km to the village Tulleråsen located northwest of Krokom. In Tulleråsen turn left towards Änge. After a mile, turn up right at a sign for "Rise". After the sharp right curve on the
hill, a barn on the right side
4-6 ice scruws, a full rack of nuts and camalots as well as some small Aliens and pitons
For full topo visit
Dec 3, 2013
/fly what you climb!
Oct 18, 2013
Gone flying in Maroc -Todgha gorge
This area has climbing on limestone between 4+ to 8b. Everything from long pure trad routes to newly bolted singel pitch. As well as bolted multi pitch up to 10pitches.
The amount of routes I would say is enough for a couple of weeks climbing for most of us, about 400 routes to chose between. And the potential for putting up new routes are enormous
Steep and overhanging...
For info about the tours and a topo you can find Allal Fadili, how also has a small "shop" at the other end of the canyon. Just ask for him and they will know! He will also help to show any of the routes. And can provide with most of the gear you need, even renting you are rope!
Which isn't to bad because the impact on the ropes are big! The sharp and quite "colour full"rock will adopt the colour of dust brown to the rope, no matter how you do
Otherwhise a cheap alternative is to stay in a pitched tent at the roof of hotel Mansour, if you just can stand the smell and noise.Or, try to get a place in this one...
|No, its not muttons at the trailer...|
Hotel Dar Ayour, darayour.com is a small guest house suited just before the gorge, very nice, clean and good service. Just stay away from the wine (yes they have wine) but sold at 150MAD/bouteille! Pass any of the Supermarchés before you leave Marrakech instead
They have wifi and very nice rooms, a little smelly though because of the numbers of cheaps and goats extérieur, but on the other hand gives a little "piff exotica" not to be underestimated!
|Breakfast at Dar Ayour|
And what ever you do, dont miss a tour to the old Hammam in Tinghir, with a ruff massage done by the owner! Might also involve a cup of tea after the traitement, if you still can walk:-)
|Entrance to the Hammam|
|Cheaper way of transport...|
|map to Majorelle|
|Coffey in Tinghir,at hotel Oasis. The beds are cheap but very crowded...beacoup the "poux"|
But, stay away from the beds
//Fly what you climb, inshalla...
Sep 26, 2013
Presles - a south facing vertical limestone dream for mulipitching
It's warm, it's steep and the 6b...is just a grade.
After a loong week with rain, rain and more rain the only reasonable plan was to head south, to get some decent sun on the skin. After a no from our premium plan, Italy. Cause of a closed hut, we quickly rearranged in the hallway and headed for Presles in the heart of Vercors.
At an altitude of 800+ it's low enough to stay warm during most of the year. During the summer it most be way to hot, specially since the limestone walls are mostly south facing.
The village of Presles is very picturesque and very small. If you don't step on break in time, you will miss it!
Le chez Ezéo, the small "restaurant" in the village performs great Coffey and after climb beer. Don't miss the béer rouge Belgique!
To give any advice regarding the climbs is difficile, mots of the climbs are 3* and above. But, take care of reading about when the routes are put up and by who. The "bomb" signs in the topo "Escalade a Presles" made by Dominique Duhaut is very accurate, even though the pictures leaves a lot for the mind
For hot mid days or afternoons a ballade to the village of Pont en Royans is a nice one, with it's hanging houses. It also has some good fishing right in town.
And, some very good restaurants and bakerys
For the camping, either stay in the hostel of Chez Ezèo, about 12€/night, or wild camping is an other option. But, take care of where you amp and stay"low profile" since there has been many disputes with some of the local habitants. Just to keep it climbable for the future
Otherwhise, looking for a great place to climb multi pitch routes on steep limestone, no reason not to go to Presles. It's a great place, at least if you dont care to much about the grading, cause its a little bit hardish...
Le Chrysanthèmes, a nice route if you forgett the first pitches and focus on the rest. But an advice is also to take a short cut and climb the last pitch variation to the right at the top
50m rope, 2x50 if you rappel, 12-14QD's, 2 free biners and a sling for most of the belays, a lot of chalk...
For some of the routes a smaller set of stoppers and some cams are useful
Bring extra cord for the Belays, to start changing the old cords (remember to bring the old stuff home)
Time to go
March to June, September to November
//"När det är tyst och stilla som marken, hörs dånet av ett rytande högt genom rymden..."