May 24, 2019

Minimalist Belay

  I am economical in most situations, I don't like to spend money and equipment for no obvious reasons. This is especially in climbing and skiing in the use of hardware.  And, I do not like to carry material for nothing, it is often a moral crutch and its weight a physical handicap. In short, I like the idea of small back-packs, which are lightly packed

  For me it is a passion and a fix idea to go as light and fast as possible, reducing the points, weight and work to a safe minimum.
This goes for all the moments that are involved in a climbing- or skiing day, from the number of QD´s, nuts and cams, length of rope and to the minimalistic way of thinking to size and numbers of slings and carbiners to the belays
Here is a small solution that works very well which will save equipment and make the going faster:

Belay point ”en minimiste”

Place 2 good anchor points
Thread the lark's head strap into the top stitch and tie a single knot on the strap
Pass the strap in the bottom point
Clip the carabiner of the relay twice in the ring constituted by the part of the strap to pass in the point of the bottom.
Clip the part of the strap passed at the lark's head. Adjust the knot to distribute the tension on the two points. Here you are with a beautiful relay in V and Voilá!

Just remember:

-The knot must be well adjusted so that the tension on the two points is evenly distributed.
- Take a look and estimate the strength of your strap.
- If the two points are at the same level and your strap is long enough: it is possible to avoid the lark's head and transform it into a double passage of the strap as on the other point.

Information on the resistance of a Dyneema strap passed directly into the points (jamming cable, strap, plate) 
For the tests I had access to a laboratory and a traction machine used to develop and certify mountain equipment. 

PS: Warning. If you do not understand or if you doubt, ask a professional or refrain from using this metod. The described technique is only self-teatched and up to you to use and judge

// Climbing is a dangerous sport that might cause death if used wrong!