Nov 14, 2011


Yes, back on the vertical sandstone
Even though they didn't really try to convince people to start climbing at the rest and fly hotel at Arlanda where we started the trip, we kept up the phase anyhow.

And once landed on the final destination, Las Vegas, we geared up. Not just climbwise but car wise as well.
A nice Ford Victoria bla bla bla. Which consumes a lot of cheap fuel and gives us a very conservative American look. A real climbing car!

After one day of easy sporting in the great scenic overlook area of Red Rock we took next day up the canyon to Eagle Wall for Levitation 29
A quite popular route as it worked out...not the only ones on this one for sure. Even though we started up at 06.00, which was easy since home time is 15:00. So a late p.m start, again:-)
But after watching the teams in front of us we changed plans and went for the 3 star route "Dance with Eagles" 5.10c 1060feet.
Turned out to be a great climb, but as so many routes here, over bolted Please please people, take it easy with the hammer drill! Is the bolts for free here or what?
But, it's a route to rekommend for sure. Every type of climbing including a short bolt ladder as well.

Approach through the canyon to Eagle Wall

Once at the base which took us just under 2 hours of a nice hike...or something, gearing up is a pure pleasure.
Tying in the rope and suddenly the Sac a dos feel everything then heavy. But the waist is a little more...
First pitch is easy and nice, no loose flakes. So with my light 65mts joker rope I don't bother to stop for pitch one, to in one pitch up next one. An easy 5.7
Then the trip start going. A 5.10a that is quite sporty. Makes the next pitch at 5.10c feel like a stroll in the park almost.

Base at Eagle dance, levitation 29 to the right

Anna keeping up the going on Eagle Dance

the bolt ladder on pitch 8

jam jam on pitch 9

the crux steaming pitch, high above ground

Well worth the effort of topping out, the views man

After a nice stroll back down the canyon...over 2 1/2h we found ourselves at the car, and got us a well deserved Big Coffey, thank god.
Next day we had a bit later start, 06:20 and got our hand on some more steep sporty sand stone.

Anna on Red Book 5.8 off with

Sunset over Red Rocks, make one believe or what?

With an other 3 weeks to go, there will be more!

/ hang on

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