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| Massif de Céüse |
Something I didn't find to bad on the lower graded routes. But as soon as we started on 7a/7a+ and higher, that became a true fact indeed!
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| Evening cragging at Céüse |
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| With the sunset followed by the BQ |
What is a little less known in the area, at least for me, was that it aslo has a few multi pitch routes. And a couple of them which I would say is great classic´s and something you should´t miss out on a visit here.
One of them is "Natilik"
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| Voie Natilik - Céüse |
Natilik - a Forgotten Trad Climb?!
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| The start of Natilik |
It is a stunning climb on the highest point of the rock face, far out on the north side, right side facing the cliff. It works it ways trough the giant roofs giving every single pitch its own character; off-width, chimney, face and stuff you might never explored before!
Summiting up on the high plateau of the ski area of Station de Céüse
First climbed in 1981 it still is a very interesting route with a lot of fun. Never super hard, just airy and might even feel a bit scary. I have seen it graded with everything between 5c to 6b+, guess it just depends on if you are used to placing own gear or not. And have been climbing big cracks.
The crux is getting of the roof ledge up over the roof part, but it is well protected with a #2 camalot.
The Route
To find the start. Hike up towards the rock face but stay low to start with, easier to take the lower trails. And head out north until you finally reach a fence "no passing - interdict" Allow 1.15h for the approach.Just pass the fence, ignoring the first bolted routes just before the fence. You will see a BIG crack system heading up slightly leftwards blocked by a big "horn". It might also be a cairn at the bottom.
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| Anna on the second pitch of Natilik |
2nd pitch. Continue up the crack which turned into a sort of chimney to the next bolted belay. 20mts / 6a
3rd pitch. Head up the wall passing a small roof, bolt, and then make a airy traverse leftwards. Says "poor protected" but it is possible to get in a few cams on the way. Just remember to place pro for the second 😅 25mts / 6a+
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| Traversing out on the 3rd pitch |
4th. The Roof!! An unforgettable pitch 20- 25mts / 6a+
5th. Follow great formations, cannelure´s to the top. 30mts / 5b
All pitches are maximum 30meters
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| Unforgettable Roof Pitch! |
Follow trails north and around back to the base. Or, if low season, its possible to walk south and take the via- ferrata down. Just walk down to the sign. This is much quicker but will catch a lot of input if its people coming up...
It is also possible to make a rappel on the route to the left, but then you will need 2x50m rope
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| Exit out over the roof |
For "Natilik"
50m rope, 5-6 QD´s (longer ones useful) a few mid size wires, cams from #0,5-4 (BD camalots)
All belays are bolted and it was re-bolted 2015
First ascent 1981 by Philippe Macle et Jean-Christophe Lafaille
Places to stay
Les Roses and Sigoyer
There is a camping close to where the trail starts up to the cliff. And aslo a few AirBnB´s
Food
This is a tricky one. There is no shops in the close area, not even a bakery in low season!
The closest one is at Gap-Tallard.
From Sigoyer, take the D219 down to Gap-Tallard. At the roundabout there is an Intermarche visible towards Gap.
There you also find the Drop Zone area.
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| Yeah, summit! |
The drive to Orpierre is only an hour away. Nice place if you want to change and have really short approaches for a change. It also has a lot of great climbing but also much more crowded!
Stay away during the mid terms holiday in november!!
External links
Link to Camp2Camp here
Link to Climbaway here
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| Orpierre |
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| the falaise de Céüse seen from Sigoyer |
