Here you can find 2 quite remote and beautiful routes on a wild pillar of the South of the les Diablerets
The approach is possible from both Sion and Derborence 1464m and via Martigny, Gryon and Solalex
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le Pilier to the right
Red line Tchieu c't'équipe
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From Solalex traverse the Anzeinde plateau and continue towards the Pas de Creville. A little before the col head up the scree slopes to the left towards the lowest point of the pillar on the 2464 side. The routes begins on the middle of the spur, to the left of the big dihedral. The 1st spits on both routes are quite high. To the right of the spur begins the classique "Pilier Brand"starts to the right.
The routes are true opposites regarding protection.
The new route Tchieu c't'équipe is well bolted and the classique Pilier would need a good number of cams and nuts, this one has a few bolts where needed and to show the way sort of.
I can tell it was very interesting and engaging to lead with only the bolts in place as protection...
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| Pilier Brand Pitch 4 |
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| Iconic run outs!! |
Route description
Pilier Brand - voie classique
Engaging climbing that can be found difficult to protect well. Expect some run outs but always good belays!
L1 5b First bolt is quite high, can be difficult to see. Upwards, left / right to a good ledge.
L2 6a+ 45m Up some delicate slabs to a piton, then up the corner system with an other serie of bolts high up.
L3 6a+ Straight up some loose looking corner, stay to the right on the slabs, up to a steep section ( well protected) to a belay out to the left
L4 Good start up some beautiful slabs then a corner/layback system up to the base of a big ledge system with a lot of loose rock
Move the belay over the ledges to the single bolt
L5 Up the crack system, some loos rock
L6 More slabs
L7 Slabs to the summit
Rappel down the same line
Equipment
2x50m Rope
8-10 QD's
Good selection of cams to BD 4
a set of mid size nuts
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| Anna enjoying life on "Pilier Brand" |
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| Forcing the chimney P7 of Tchieu c't'équipe |
Tchieu c't'équipe
Modern climbing, well protected
L1 6a 45 m Take the left side of a large dihedral which deviates to the left. Then cross to the right by an easy ledge between roofs to reach the belay on the spur.
L2 6A+ 40 m A little right up grooves then on the left (slabs) to the belay. In the middle of the pitch, a spit line leaves to the right to reach the path of the Brand pillar.
L3 6A 30 m Short beautiful pitch up cannelures. Belay on a ledge.
L4 6A 30 m Short pitch rightwards, belay at a small ledge below the big roofs.
L5 6b+ or 6A/A0 45 m First fairly easy on some slabs the left and then crossing right to a small arête.
A few meters up then rightwards over the roof to arrive at the belay (A0 possible).
L6 6A 45 m Interesting and solid climbing, again well protected. 14 bolts
L7 6B 45 m grooves at the start then big crack before an extraordinary outing in opposition in a large air chimney. Optional belay to the right on the sortie of the chimney (allows you to see the second climber), Descend from here or from the descent belay on the other side, on lookers left of the chimney.
Equipment
2x50m rope
14 QD's
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| P6 of Tchieu c't'équipe |
Take care about the cows...
