Dec 9, 2011

Back on the Plastic

It ain't nothing like getting beaten up by a bunch of plastic on a pice of vertical wood!
Finally back in the real life after weeks of outdoor, with out the oudoor...
The only real climbing, is the indoor climbing. Or what!?
A hard work out at the famous C Halle makes which ever climber a hard time. Real Jemtland wok out!

Something totally different

A question to Chris Rowlands, the DMM Brand Manager.
About different use of dynema slings in anchors. No matter the base of what are used to tie the slings to.

What is your opinion on using Dyneema slings for climbing anchors like?
A. The classic V anchor with 2 points and one overhand knot in the bottom to equalize.
Like this

but with a dyneema sling.

Is this OK to hold a factor 2 fall? (belayer hanging in stand giving belay with normal rope brake like ATC) What will happen if one point fails and and we have one point in a dyneema sling with the overhand knot on?

B. The triangle 120cm sling with clove hitch in each protection and the overhand knot on one sling in the bottom.
Same questions as above.
Risk of clove hitch slipping and burning/ breaking the dyneema?

C. Any of the above with 2nd climber using 120cm dyneema as cow tail to clip in to anchor.
2nd giving belay to lead climber in his harness and getting shock load on the cow tail as lead climber takes fac 2 fall.
Risk of breaking the dyneema cow tail?

In answer to the questions;
The A scenario is a generally accepted practice and would appear to be ok
B and C scenarios we are unable to give you ar firm and fast amswer as there are too many variables involved.However as per the video, generally it is best to avoid knotting and shockloading dyneema. Where there are other dynamic factors in the system , such as Rope, and the belay plate, this will help decrease the force on the dyneema.

Many Thanks
Chris Rowlands
DMM Brand Manager

Some reflections?!

a short video from our free ascent of Moonlight Buttress last week

/it's all about the Country!

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