May 11, 2012

Les Vuardes

A morning sunshine wall with steep routes, loose routes and tres bien routes. Pick and choose!

Summit view over mt Blanc, makes everybody love this place!
A nice approach from Romme sur Cluse. Which is a very nice small village with a superb restaurant, and very good espresso...not to be missed!

Vanja on the approach
The walk up the ski slope is OK this time of year, can be super warm in a couple of weeks...and the lift is closed for the season So get your apostlas out and enjoy the uphill. Une 1h approach takes the feets up to the cabane des Vuardes. Descend le grand couloir (just avant le cables electric)

Mike getting ready for some workout!
A little exposed descent down the couloir but no worries, its equiped with some wire cables and cordes!

At the base of the cliff there are a whole bunch of routes, expect about 1 1/2h from the parking walking time.

And the choise of lines is everything from less hard to quite hard, a route for everybody and every body.


Just hanging around, Mike at belay

A little mixe up

What looked quite obvious from below, a perfect chimney 6a crack/chimney up the leftish part of the yellow rock, just as it looks in the topo.
So right on and chalking up. Perfect climbing on this only 2* route. Its well worth at least three as I could see it, so far. Well things change quick in the mountains. Next pitch looks just a little bit harder then the expected 4+...hmmm?!
Well a super hard move, ok a couple of hard moves, bring me up this 4ish bit, a short pitch to next belay!
Well again, i might be off route but its a great day so up we go. As always I get this "suprice me" feeling!
Feels a little like putting up a new route, no "facit" from any topo.

Crazy and happy, green and mean...

Looking up the next bit looks not to bad but its a little to close between the next bolts. So prob a little hard!
And yes, hard moves on loose rocks, small flakes coming of for every move. I try as gentle as possible to hold the flakes in place, until I can find a new one.
Mike is happy belaying from under a helmet:-)

Airy pitch
Friction steeps on small holds which now and then brakes of dosnt make to many happy but, its the true fact in a real world, at least thats what I try to convince my brain with. And how hard can it be, its a new bolt just a couple of meters up and its one just a couple of meters below! "Guts shake" up we go!

Mr Mike up the hill

Out running on a run out

Finally the quickdraws looks like it wont be enough, still no belay in sight, three mo bolts and one quick left. Have to do some judging, well the next moves looks quite ok, so skip the next clip and the next one also, and clip the last. At the end it feels like it doesnt matter, its gonna hurt anyhow, so just focus. Feel a little better when Mikey follows and breaks of a couple of holds before the last clip and the belay...It helps to climb with as little air as possible in the lungs! Make your self light, lighter!

Le summit! worth every effort

So what did we climb in the end? Well the original plan of a cruising 6a+ was changed for "du désir"7a+ With out knowing...

Le wall

At least:
The mt Blanc views is one of the most impressive one can find, from this distance


/fly what you climb


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