Jul 9, 2019

la Chandelle - Bonatti-Tabou

The combination of the Bonatti and Tabou routes is a logical route to the summit of the Tacul Candle. Although we talk about average and moderate difficulty, climbing and what is nice and sometimes supported. A beautiful route taking place on a superb granite, not to be missed!

Route marked in black dots
Looking for an easier acclimatization route in the higher massif, a preparation for a bigger climb in the Mont Blanc massiv we chose the classic Bonatti-Tabou on Chandelle.
Chandelle is easily accessed from the Helbronner lift, mostly downhill on the glacier. And if you, as we did, start from aiguille du Midi, it also include the panoramic traverse in the small 4 seat tele cabins crossing the Vallee Blanche. An experience in it self!
Relaxed approach!
After 3 weeks on canicule, the Sahara heat air flow that has been hitting most of the southern parts of Europe. With temps up to +11 degrees on the summit of Mont Blanc!! But suddenly we experienced some cooler days and standards was getting back to normal. Which meant minus celsius degres during the night and frozen snow in the mornings. Something that also makes the rock bit more stable. So we could start to look on the high alpine routes again.
Taking the early bin up from Chamonix, with the nowadays regular turists that has invaded not only Chamonix. But for sure, climbers (like the real climbers and not Mont Blanc tourists and forest scramblers around Brevent) are starting to be a rear sight in town....but at least they smell, well not good (flooded with parfyme) but better.
Then once at top of Midi we hike over at get into a private cabin on the Italian traverse. An impressive installation even these days!

A quick espresso stop before we make the 1hour hike to the base of Chandelle. And as most of the climbs that takes a bit of effort to get to we are almost alone. Only one team infront of us, and a friendly team it turns out with to British colleagues, which makes the climbing more than just a beautiful day out on this perfect French Chamonix granit, it breaks out in a social escapade as well!!
the first 6b pitch, short and hard
To keep this short, this route is again one of many most do classics in the Mont Blanc Massif. Established by Walter Bonatti and Roberto Gallieni 1960. Gallieni who was with the team of Bonatti on the Freney Pillar the year after, an ascent in which four people died.
Anna Backlund following on the same...

The Route

L1 5c 35 m Climb over the belay and cross left on a ledge to reach a dihedral. Climb the dihedral and come up against a large block that is bypassed to the left. R1 just above the foot of a dihedral-crack.
L2 6b 20 m Refit the dihedral-crack (crack with fingers and many in situ protection). Short but intense climbing.
L3 5c 40 m Start to the left of the belay (Do not engage in the beautiful crack right above the belay, White Line track) Go up to the left the dihedral largely cracked up to come up against under a little suplomb. Circumvent it on the right.
L4 6a + 45 m Two options for the start: go up the dihedral above the relay or take a slight right on the slab (1 peak). Then cross to the right and go back to the easiest towards an imposing dihedral to the foot of an imposing dihedral, which is lying in the shade during the first half of the day (spits).
L5 5b 10 m Short horizontal traverse on the left.
L6 6b + 35 m Raise a thin flake until you come to a stop under a small overhang which is rounded to the left. Cross slightly to the left and take a walk on a slab. Climb a thin crack with delicate protection, provide small jams and Aliens for the start on the shell.
L7 6a 40 m Over the Belay, wind up a system of cracks until you reach a small ledge. There, cross left with the help of a horizontal crack (forming a small ledge) to reach a chimney-dihedral (visible upper left from R6). Do not climb the chimney-dihedral which heads rightwards.
Et Voila!
Rappel the same route

Top pitch 


Double sets of cams, Aliens Green to Red & 0.75 to 3 Camelot's (2 x 0.75-2)
A small set of small wires up to #5 DMM
8 Quick draws
2x50m rope (single rope and tail line)
Ice axe and, if its solid frozen snow, crampons

// alpinemadness.se

No comments:

Post a Comment