Jul 11, 2013

Majorette Thatcher - a classic crack tour

At Blaitière, 1 1/2h walk from Plan de l'Aiguille téléphérique, there is a number of great climbs. And with an exeption from Nabot Leon, an other classic which is frequent climbed, the other routes doesn't see to keep much traffic these days. But, I might be wrong?!


Anyhow, the approach right now, with the amount of snow covering the boulder terrain over plan de l'Aiguille and the remaining of the glaciers, is very sufficient and easy. Specially with the last winters now transformed to solid neve


The only issue is to take the right turn once at the brèche and not head straight up glacier du Blaitière.

The climb start at the highest point at the Red Pillar, under a small roof. Which is the crux of the whole route, but good protected with a no.3 Camalot.

The start is accually much easier than it looks at first glance and its possible to protect there when needed. A delicat move out to the right takes you to the first anchour, a couple of meters under the roof.

Arriving after pitch 1, Majorette Thatcher

An advice is to climb up to the roof and place the next piece before the second is brought up to the belay, since it's a bit tricky start, at least for a shorter person, and nothing to protect with. So a fall will result in testing the anchour...


The roof pitch is just a perfect hand and fist jam, not easier if it's wet for sure...but after a bit of cussing I transform the jam into a layback and so, I'm over it


As meteo France had promised an afternoon thunderstorm the goal was to be ahead of it. But fighting with pitch nr.3, which gives a feeling of a never ending story, takes a bit of this time! But since its a much enjoyable crack pitch at almost 50m finishing on a perfect belay on a small pedestal, it's worth every punch

The advertisement for this route is cracks, and cracks there is



With one and the last pitch to go the clouds are once again sweeping down the walls and just when I have placed the first cam in the last bit of climbing...

-Isn't that something like grêle coming down...?

-It sure is I hear from below!


Anna on the last pitch of Majorette Thatcher

Perfect timing and when we a both up and safe on top the pillar all heavens doors opens, like wide!

So just on it, down with the ropes and rap of, thunders in the distans moving in...

An other great day in the mountains...and the thelephrique was even running still once back at plan, thanks for that!

What a bit of hail can do

You need

2x50m rope

A set of Aliens green to red, xtra red useful, a set of Camalots 0.75-3.0, xtra 0.75 useful

A set of wires DMM 1-8

5- 10QD's

Belays are in place and some bolts during the trip

Majorette is the line to the left


//Även en kättare måste tro på något. Om så bara på sanningen i sitt egna tvivel


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