Jul 17, 2013

Travers of the Grand Perron

Great airy ridge offering stunning views of the Mont Blanc

Grand Perron, aim for the small snow field out to the upper right

Enjoyable climbing on mostly good rock and air, and gives a nice ride up to lac d'emosson



Approche 2h

Cross the dam and turn left the marked trail leading to Loriaz. 400m further leave a little path cairnée (starting at a cairn on a large block in a small valley, before it descent path Loriaz). It then rises slopes increasingly steep gradually pulling right.

On the snowfield seen from the dam


After further slopes, climbing a second steep passage a rope may be necessary (2b, exposed).

Then aim for the gap between the two summits of Van (N and S), although drawn on the map: the lower valley is oriented NNE, the upper part is a corridor facing E. Foothold in the valley (common firn) by overcoming a small bar (2b, can pass from the right), and go up the scree to the breach through a narrow corridor to the right

Climb 2-6h

Of the gap, one can easily climb each peak through but usually directly below the summit S by a grassy ledge to gain the main ridge


It is relatively easy to the main summit of the Grand Perron (2674m) and to the next gap of the Vouilloz


Continue on the crest of the ridge now more delicate and air to the top (all 3b/3c), climb down a little at the foot of which you must leave the edge to get full N (2 bolted anchours , 20 and 25m, do not climb out to the slings on the gendarme) traverse the grassy slopes, through which you can easily reach the next gap (Vouilloz - ifala)


The climb up Ifala is the key passage (4a/4b) remain well to the right of the ridge from the breach. Do not go to the characteristic hole/ gap to the left. Then follow the crest of the ridge to the summit



Continue edge now much easier (grass and rock) bypassing obstacles (the left and the right) until the breach Perrons, hence you can easily reach a series of small lakes.

Be careful not to descend any of the corridors, even if there are traces and a cairn, keep the edge all the way to the col!

a Cairne path back to Veudale where you find the path of the Col de la Terrasse (on the left side of the gorge). From there directly to the dam


Edge quite sunny in the morning, dry quick

Fairly level but three ascents and descents

Very good school to learn how to move quickly

The ridge also runs in the other direction but it is more difficult (D).


Very little in the way of equipment, only bolted rappels (on spits).

A 50m rope is sufficient or 2*25m

small selections of mid size nuts and mid size Cams

4-6QD's, 2-4 longer slings

Eventually crampons for the access early in the season


//En delad upplevelse betyder inte att man delat samma händelse


No comments:

Post a Comment