La Petite Maladière Une très bien...

...Rocher

It is always nice to find out something that works well. Doesn't matter if it is a new adjustment for the road bike, like my new compact disc for my Scott, or just to find a nice vertical cliff with a whole bunch of 4* routes. And then not just one pitch ones!

The walk in to Maladières is about 30 min on an easy trail. Passing some old houses as well as an area where there always this time of year are masses of berries.

And once at the cliff the views over le massif are stunning!

An other thing for the day was to try out the best of three options of clogging on a fix rope!

Rope solo climbing

If the route isn't to long or hard I prefer to climb the pitch again when cleaning it, this is when I rope solo. Otherwise, I clean the pitch using jumars, if the route is long, hard and warm...Since before I have given up on using the regular Petzl Basic, which I think is ok for it's purpose but a bit ankward cause it's also nesessary to use a chest harness as well. There for I have found out that the best choices would be Petzl minitraxion, Trango Cinch or Kong Duck

 

Only one of these are actually tested and approved for clogging, but that doesn't really mean that the other ones won't work and be safe?? Maybe a factor of cost of money?

So today I put the all in the blue ice pack and walked off from le Orage

And walked off, again to mald... The goal was set for a couple of high star routes - Jacques l'éventreur and Obsession. Two as it turned out easy to find! and good quality routes up the middle of le Petite. With a start up ...casque de Jupiter.

Vanja as always at the base (this time top) taking observations

The rappel down is straightforward. 2 rapps and touchdown.

Rien pour obtenir la corde de rester coincé dans la clôture! After leading the first pitch, rapp down and first out on the fix rope was the duck. A small nice thing that weights only like 78gr. With a still big enough whole for a regular biner to fit in. But, this thing isn't recommended for this use! And I must say it doesn't feel quite safe. Even though it worked fine when I fell back in it. BUT, it will not lock if you just lean back or if there is a to big weight below holding the rope down! Then it just slides down the rope...

So after the next pitch, a long nice 6c, I put on the cinch, which main purpose is belaying, so if one want to re-climb a section just rappel down back and start over. It slides nice up the rope but needs a heavier weight pulling the rope down for easy sliding. ( I just used my more or less empty sac a dos)

Off course this depend on which diameter your rope have. I use a 9.4mm Bluewater at this test. And it slides fine. The Cinch is approved down to just 9.4! I also noticed that it slides slowly down wards if I just hanged on into the cinch without braking it...just sslloowwlyy As in very slow!

The last pitch of l'éventreur has a hard to read section of 6b, but here is the horn! Catch it if your a short guy and your home safe!

Le Romainian horn!?

Otherwhise there are no surprises, except really perfect lime...

Fun and funny on the day off...

 

Back on top, off to next route and an other rappel. Same start with le Casque, but this time out to the right and the last pitch of 6c on Obsession is just a stunning line, move after move.

For this route I use the minitraxion. But it's sharp teeth makes me feel a bit "hairy". Even though it's the only device of these that is approved for the reason... And, it slides fine up the rope and is easy to pull in.

It locks with out any hassle when I let the body fall out with some slack. Well, it works, thanks 4 thats!

After the days workout, it's time to get back down the road to get some more berries down the belly.. And the conclusion that booth Petzl and Trango has a good working piece for clogging.

And the duck belongs with the Clic a Claque...!

La Petite Maladiére

To get here follow the track and signs from the parking, first one on the left after village le Frasse. The track takes you up a dirt road which changes to a path. After a small forest clearing the path goes up right. Follow this for approx 50mts and then take left. Your at le sommet!

The best anchour is at the sign of Romain Vogler metal plate.

The limestone is very compact on steep rock with very good friction.

You need, 2x50m ropes for the rappel, 7-8 QD and a good bag of chalk

notice. To use a clogging system safe, what ever device, it is wise and reckomended to have a backup rope with "bunny ears" to hold you in case of mal function of the device!

But, after leading on a thing, Rock Exotica Soloist, that doesn't even have a CE typing, I don't feel to unhappy to clogg on just one rope...:)

/ Dur Conduire!

 

 

Trois jours trois vois vertical - L'oiseau de feu

L'oiseau de feu, 6c 10pitches and a mega tour up a beautiful line of La Mamule - Aravis

La Mamule - les Aravis

If you as me like steep footwork with long runouts, this is a route to aim for! And it's not just a climb. It involves a 1 1/2h approach as well up some nice scenic trails via the most exellent place refuge ...!!

Starting from the ski area and road end of la Clusaz. Drive up to les Confines and take the trail to ref. Bombardellaz. The path continues behind/above le refuge and an other 40 min walking.

After this sign...

...Continue approx 20-30mts uphill and then there is a faith trail out leftwards. Follow this hard to see start trail around the hillside and up towards the peak.

The start of the climb goes over an often wet steep tricky part. There is actually 2 starts, but the nicest one is the one to the right. Higher up to the right there are a couple of one pitch routes!

As so often, as it is said, the start is wet, very wet! So either pull on the bolts or choose an other route, I go for the first option...

Pulling the first 2, up on the third and then I decide to take off uphill...lets see...,

The Firebird is said to be hard on the grade and up yes, it looks like the bolts are placed after the "take the shit" out of them device. On the easier pitches the bolts are pretty close but on the 6's there is only one way, climb it! And it's most enjoyable indeed. Very spacy climbing on good friction limestone.

As we, as to often, started up with an anti alpine start, I head up the first pitch at 14:30 something, could be a long day in the mountains. But the day is great, a little wind and no clouds, just the dust from the chalk bag. Time to relax and just climb.

An route le Montagne

There is no easy pitches to start with, actually the only 6a is a very short one at the end of the route and even that one has a bit of boulder problem grade, a bit higher than the grade set in most cases. But cussing the numbers!

Somewhere on the route there is just no point of thinking at the chance of going down, like falling. There is just a nice flow in the climbing. Very perfect and as said, enjoyable!

At some point I find my self stretched out, with my thumb at a cristal trying to pinch...something. Next thing I'm not holding on to anything, not even the crystal that just broke off.

But a nice blue water holds on to me so the cussing cristal didn't win after all! :-)

Me, the stone and the blue...

The route is a bit devided in two, as it felt. The first part...and the second part, 2 parts right!?

The first parts slabs and friction steps gets a bit more vertical but still a bit frictionista. Vertical friction.

Frictionistanna!

I finally find myself at a nice, one of many, belay. Overlooking the next pitch, said to be a 6b, but looks just impassable...

Turns out to be passable but on a bit secret holds, just perfect, again! Like the last pitches that brings us up to the last belay just at a small tower. A bit of airy scramble and we can walk out on the ridge to start the walk down descent.

tres belle le deux

Thé descent isn't to complicated,but there is a bit of down scrambling over some exposed parts and then when it feels hopeless. There is an anchour! Make a 50m rappel and you are down.

Pinching the lime time

Les Maladières

But, the weekend wasn't over just because of this...

Next thing was a shorter route on Maladières. A nice cliff above Cluse.

On which we the day before did a climb as well, the Qui s'y frotte s'y pique 6c+

A five pitch route that travel up the hill on the Eclipsè area. On most perfect rock with good bolts.

Anna on Qui s'y frotte s'y pique 6c+

To finally end this we after a bit of bushing and a lot from me at least Big Cussing Story, ended up and chalking the vertical on Amertume 6c.

Idyllic approach to les Maladières

This route is a bit of same as Eclipsé, same start but a harder 6c middle part and a bit of desperat 6b finish. Overall an other nice climb...

So happy I could scream out load or loader...great climbing on Maladières

And what ever you do, don't miss a pain du chocolat at les Nomade in La Giettaz. Its a bomber!

Next one is...written in the stars

You need

For la Mamule; 2x50m rope (for the last rappel, we use just a 6mm trail line), 12 QD, good shoes

For les Maladières; 2x50m rope (the routes are rappelled down and easiest to find anchour are at the Eclipse area, small yellow wood signs) 10QD

next one...?...is written in the stars!

/

Bonne chance avec le été et le pluie...À +

 

Forza di Orco

What an incredible amount of rain and snow!

It's almost midsummer and there is still fresh snow on the peaks even as low as the 2000mts ones of les Aravis each and every morning...

The weather has been a bit of on and off for a couple off weeks and it doesn't look like it matters where ever I go, from here to the northern part of Norway, still the same (but just colder) forecast, le pluie an masse!

So, time to go a bit south and head for some Italian granit, one of my favorit climbing areas Valle dell'Orco

Just driving through the mont Blanc tunnel, doesn't just cost a bit of money but its like arriving in an other world. Dry roads, cheap good coffe and a yellow thing shining over us, yes!

And it just gets better down the road...

Orco, not to be mixed up with Arco, is on the south side of Grand Paradiso. Which has a named famous 4000m summit as well. An area great for skiing and climbing.

A couple of hours drive and we arrive to this ocean of slabs and walls of cracks, well worth the fuel.

And don't miss the Pizzeria da Tiziano

 

The approaches are everything from 30sec to a couple of hours, we aimed for the Sergent area at the end of the valley. A 20min walk and there's loads of routes.

Incastromania 6a, a do not miss this one warm up, beautiful hand crack. Well protected with mid sized up to nr2 Camalot

Vanja is enjoying, finally there is sunshine!

After Incastro we had time to head for Michail delle torture a 6b Orco crack classic. The route starts up some traversing crack and grass system which doesn't look to inspiring, and can be avoided via an direct start, but that involves climbing a bolted route, and personally I find it to bizarre to climb any of those bolted lines next to a perfect crack...can't understand the idea. There is an other thing with the slab routes, but a couple of meters next to a crack, why!?

First pitch of Michail delle torture

Anyhow, the Torture one isnt the anything close to the hardest route, but a bit tricky and exposed and can give a nice flight down the slope. A tactical nut is placed under the roof of the second pitch, sometimes...

And with a potential 7a finish, not to be missed!

P-E takes the opportunity to show the Swiss dülfer rappel

 

Since Orco has both cracks and slabs we headed for a tendon workout day two and "Cristo Verde" 6b

A slab training route over 7 pitches. The crux on the 6b is well protected but consider some nice run outs

Sea of granit

The route starts at the west side of le Sergent, the most left hand side, just where there are some old cement blocks with 2 big old rusty bolts. A faint trail takes you out there from the main trail

Footwork

This is a perfect route, as well as one of the classics, an other one, which are crucial considering the foot work as well for the mind. Go there and see what I mean:-)

Per-Erik on the 7th and last pitch of Cristo Verde

All of the anchours are in good mood but there was one that needed a bit of shaping up...

Like this one....

 

Time for descent and some Pizza!

 

Valle dell'Orco rack


a set of nuts, a set of cams, black Alien to at least no.4 Camalot (for the big ones no. 5 or 6)

2x50m ropes

Up to 10QD

Topo

There is a new well made topo made by Maurizio Oviglia and in English as well

 

Camping

There is a very nice camping spot below the Sergent, with a fish pond as well for fresh fish

The biggest area are Sergent, Caporal and don't miss the climbing above Lucano!

Sergent left side, no.9 is the Cristo Verde

/Climb hard, fall sometimes...