Flyingplanet - MUTANT 9

The mutant is based on the amount of Antoine Montant´s ideas: get a wing that sublime skiing!

 Mutant has all the qualities of a parachute, without the drawbacks. When the trimmers, it flies only if it chooses, while remaining safe to fly

After giving it some test flights for Speed Flying, well it works fine for that as well!

A really nice sensitive and distinct wing

Takes a bit of running to foot launch in nil wind, but it fly fast!

Would work out a bit nicer with a little less overworked raisers, Elevateurs. But that can be adjusted and changed. A mountain variation will come soon

More info at Flying Planet

//Hodie mihi, cras tibi

The ”diamant des Flammes du pierre” - le Joyau et le Lotus

The ”diamant des Flammes du pierre” - le Joyau et le Lotus

le true Diamonds les Flammes

Easily reached from the train Montanvers, an 1hour and an half. The Flammes des Pierre is a most enjoyable ”ballade” for a day climbing. Either it is a bit harder route as the "le Reprise", 7a or the ”les Flammes du Désire” 6b or the solid arete of "le Joyau le lotus” 6a

Pitch one, "le Joyau", Anna struggles easy up

A route that clear quickly after bad weather and involves some nice pitches over reddish solid granit

For a hard day of climbing I recommend ”la Reprise” but for a nice day between rain showers the ”Joyau” is the perfect choice

Perfect granite crack system on le arete of le Flammes

From the Montavers train, join the ladders down to Merde du Glace. Traversee de glacier over to the withe dots on the opposite side of the moraine

Grab the ladders, big thanks to the Chamoniards for a great job, which leads up from the glacier to the cheminee leading up towards Charpoua refuge

Cracking the fingertips on the second crux pitch

Just before the moraine and a bigger area of block of stones, about 50meters, take a sharpe left. Follow an blind track. Which is quite obvious with an open mind, towards the base of the ridge. An old drilled sling marks the start of the climb it self with a drilled bolt a couple of meters up

Viewing over the merde du glace, a pure distance joy!

After that just enjoy the climbing! A climb that has it hardest moves at the premier pitch, a very well secured one! When it suddenly feels hopeless, look up and there is 3 fresh 12mm drilled bolts.

Last pitch extra, after 8p climbing, only 4 easy ones to go

All the belays are made up ones with at least one good modern point as well, all the way to the very Diamond summit. Which as well has a nice BB anchor. With all the rappels down its steep west face, so rappelling down is not just dafe but safe and secure as well...hepp

Happy fam! le sommet...

Equipment

For la reprise

2x50m corde

Camalots 0.5-3.0

Aliens blue-red, double

Coinceurs un set

QD´s 10-12

Le Flammes de Pierre

For la Joyau

2x50m corde

Camalots uo to #3.0

Coinceurs

QD´s 6-7

// All förändring börjar med dig själv...!

Skickat via Blogsy

Singeries - Plateu d´assy

What ever you hear about this little route, what ever positive things, don’t ever believe any of it!!

Le base, looks good?!

If a thought plop up in the head that

-yes it might be a nice alternative to the via ferrata

-yes it is an easy accessed route

-yes its a nice south face route

-yes its….

What ever you might come up to, just stay away. IT AINT WORTH IT!

Well, if your like me and like a dirty, muddy loose and often wet route. Then, its an other thing!

Rack up with some set of cams, skip the coinceurs ut bring some sangles. Drive up to the parking of the Ferrata and walk up as far as to the last bend. Then take the obvious path sharp up to the left and voila, your at the base of this … climb

Look out for a piece of snatched cord and believe it or not, thats where your gonna get up on the first pitch!

The thought hits me with ”ahh, nice with just a wet hold, no mud on it!”

The first pitch, a grippy loos story with flakes stapled on each other just waiting to be pulled off. So go with a light touch and it will be just fine

For the last couple of meters head out a little left and you will enter the last section of the ”Smoked out grass pitch”

Anna is...

...still fighting her way trough

Second. A violent corner with some slopy slippery steeps. Aim for the via ferrata vajer bridge and just when it feels hopeless there is an old drilled bolt to the right. Clip it and run for the nice anchor. A three bolted one with a most new 12mm bolt which just been put there. (someone actually keeps this route running!)

And your just sent the ”Muddy must corner” pitch

le MuddyMust Corner pitch belay

Third. Well, this is the "do it or leave it" pitch. 

Start up passing a furious 12mm bolt. Then head for the grassy corner which has a most interesting section but once there it forms better then it looks. Just keep your focus and there will be an end. An end with two options, a single old bolt belay, a non hanger equipped bolt belay or an other 5 meter up a perfect 2 bolt belay (free hanging)

What ever you chose, its a nightmare!

The leave it or do it pitch, a true mind work 

Forth. The ”Choucas fly, alpinist die” pitch. A true climbing story with a solid 6a crux secured with a dead tree, awesome!

And the ”sortie”, can’t wait to do it again. That catch to the old pine, well its amazing climbing but the pitch that saved the day

le topo

Equipment - You need

patient

50m corde

a set of camalots 0.5-3.0

a set of aliens green-red

3-4 QD´s

// Styrka är att göra sig själv överflödig