Aug 18, 2014

The ”diamant des Flammes du pierre” - le Joyau et le Lotus

The ”diamant des Flammes du pierre” - le Joyau et le Lotus

le true Diamonds les Flammes

Easily reached from the train Montanvers, an 1hour and an half. The Flammes des Pierre is a most enjoyable ”ballade” for a day climbing. Either it is a bit harder route as the "le Reprise", 7a or the ”les Flammes du Désire” 6b or the solid arete of "le Joyau le lotus” 6a
Pitch one, "le Joyau", Anna struggles easy up

A route that clear quickly after bad weather and involves some nice pitches over reddish solid granit
For a hard day of climbing I recommend ”la Reprise” but for a nice day between rain showers the ”Joyau” is the perfect choice
Perfect granite crack system on le arete of le Flammes

From the Montavers train, join the ladders down to Merde du Glace. Traversee de glacier over to the withe dots on the opposite side of the moraine
Grab the ladders, big thanks to the Chamoniards for a great job, which leads up from the glacier to the cheminee leading up towards Charpoua refuge
Cracking the fingertips on the second crux pitch

Just before the moraine and a bigger area of block of stones, about 50meters, take a sharpe left. Follow an blind track. Which is quite obvious with an open mind, towards the base of the ridge. An old drilled sling marks the start of the climb it self with a drilled bolt a couple of meters up
Viewing over the merde du glace, a pure distance joy!

After that just enjoy the climbing! A climb that has it hardest moves at the premier pitch, a very well secured one! When it suddenly feels hopeless, look up and there is 3 fresh 12mm drilled bolts.
Last pitch extra, after 8p climbing, only 4 easy ones to go

All the belays are made up ones with at least one good modern point as well, all the way to the very Diamond summit. Which as well has a nice BB anchor. With all the rappels down its steep west face, so rappelling down is not just dafe but safe and secure as well...hepp
Happy fam! le sommet...

2x50m corde
Camalots 0.5-3.0
Aliens blue-red, double
Coinceurs un set
QD´s 10-12
Le Flammes de Pierre

2x50m corde
Camalots uo to #3.0
QD´s 6-7

// All förändring börjar med dig själv...!

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