Krister Jonsson / IFMGA Mountainguide: L`Envers refuge climbing, Une Gueule du Diable 6c+

l`Envers Refuge - backyard climbing

Approach to l`Envers refuge from "merde du glace"

Looking for a just outside door climbing place, somewhere to have a relaxed time with short approaches shared with ”climbers only”!?!?

Well, that would be refuge l`Envers for what Im about to see

Merde, du Glace!! Verglace"

Even though it takes a bit to relies this ”secret” place. Guess it isn’t that secret after all, well known to a whole bunch of climbers already. But still, why tell even more? Well, why not!

There is so many climbs around the corner and I just like the Gardiens so much. As they don’t just keep the place clean and neat, they got a big heart and serve the most amazing food as well.

Just go and you get a memorable time surrounded by the Chamonix red granite.

A regular 40min train trip up to the Bellevue of Montanvers. Taking the ladders DOWN to mer du glade, what is still left of it. Finding the way UP towards the lower part of Grand Charmoz and the trail up towards the refuge l`Envers. A gentle 2h walk, well 2 1/2h more realistic but still. Easy hiking.

Once at the hut we just stow the extra things away in one of many baskets. And order a well deserved coffee. Served with a nice biscuit on the side…and the bellevue…great to be back

We have as always or almost, not made any made-up plans, so just enjoy the sunny weather, which has made its entrance for a day. Tomorrow has a bigger plan in mind but the winter conditions might just change it, AGAIN…!!!

Well anyhow, there is a whole bunch of climbs around so we aim for Natillons and ”du le faire”. A straight forward 6a climb. But as not always but often…i see this great splitter crack heading up the rock face.

No way, I wont keep away from a splitter like this!

And since we didn’t even have a chance to cross the rimeye to get to the start of the thought of climb, why not change plan again!?

So starting of with ”Melissa” we traverse over to le Faire and then take the obvious cracks of "du Diable”

WOW, what some great jamming! What ever you do, don’t miss this great route. First climbed by…Mr Piola (of course) and Pierre-Alain Steiner (of course again) in 1985!

But it very much holds it up, amazing climbing, which finish up the last pitches of ”Guy-Anne”

Anna fights the gravity, which doesn't have any effect to me...

Once on the top it starts to dropp and rain a bit again. The humid and wet cracks, well its a confirmation of the weather of the summer of 2014

We rappel of and get back to the hut for a late afternoon coffee and relaxing time before supper. Which don’t send anyone disappointed for sure

Next morning is supposed to be a big day, among for the easy on grade but long climb, Mer du Glace.

As always with a big show coming up I have a hard time to sleep. So the 01:00 a clock check shows me a lot of stars in the sky. Looks like the weather forecast is messed up wrong this time! Yess!!

An 04:00h check, well looks like the Cham meteo is right again…light rain/show…and a 06:00 check…snowing hard….back to bed…f:-=!k

refuge l`Envers et le bellevue

A late breakfast, as late as it can on a place like this…

And, actually, the breakfast at l`envers is good. Their fresh bread is…!!!

Just as with most French huts, the coffee is a little miserable but still

So, we pack the bag and just get ready for a descent back down. With a 5cm of fresh snow outside there isn’t much to climb really

Splitters!!

If, it wasn’t for its south facing aspect and very much friction covered granite though!

A couple of minutes walk down the path…I rise my head a couple of times…well maybe…it is super boring to just walk down…a night in a nice hut sure but…

Reconsider your mind, why not just try a something out, I mean just one singel wet pitch would make the day. And it dosnt look that bad here and there…

As people start to descend back towards mer du glace, we hold up and start glancing around. Hmm...