Bec de Raté - Via dei Diamante

Bec de Raté - Via dei Diamante

Bec de Raté

  If you want to get away from the crowds the small valley of Champorcher is a nice hide out.

A little quiet village well hidden up on the east flank of Gran Paradiso, Aosta valley.

On Bec de Raté there is a couple of interesting climbs and ”Via dei Diedri” 6a is probably the most known route. A 9pitch climb with mostly grade 4 and 5 and a couple of 6a sections. This is a bit older route so the bolts isn’t anything close to up to date!

Anna on the middle section of via dei Diamante 6b

  Its Neighbor ”Via dei Diamante” is of a newer standard on mostly good bolts and belays.

It starts on 2050m and tops out on 2417mts with some crux pitches up to max 6b. The start is actually the hardest part! Mostly short pitches except one middle pitch which is close to 50m. So for retreat or rappelling the route it is necessary with 2x50m ropes. But easiest to walk of from the summit back down to the parking. Just look watch out for the cows!!

The general information about this area and routes is quite hard to find, mostly on Italien, but when you have found the sign with the route name, your at the right spot, easy as that.

We finally had a couple of days of at the same time but due to cold and snowy days before our main goal had to be left untouched this time. Instead we took the opportunity to cross the tunnel over to the sunny val d´Aosta and the area around Arnad and Donnas for a bit of enjoyable sporting, clipping bolts and drinking good Italian Espresso.

Sporting at Donnas, val d´Aosta

But since we both are more into longer routes some investigation well performed by Anna we found a good alternativ which could be of interest.

And as always Ford was interested as well to head into unknown areas so off we went.

And even though the road keep getting worse we arrived at the parking after some hours driving up the valley of Champorcher and Dondena village.

The mountain it self is quite obvious which make sorting out the hike and finding the path quite easy with some 20min  walk up to the face from the parking

Anna following on "Diamante"

Via dei Diamante - Anna on the summit pitch

Having fun on via dei Diamante - photo Anna Backlund

Once a the base of the cliff there is a bit of "scrambling” but after sorting out the differens between herbes and arbres things went easier.

With the ground info that it should start just next and rightwards of an obvious diedré it came very clear when we also spotted the painted little rock with the text ”Diamante”.

The rack for this route is very easy, 10QD´s. And once the first obstacle is overcome the rest runs mostly easy. 

Route

Via dei Diamante, 6b max, 400mts

Equipment

50m rope (2x50 in case of rappelling)

10QD´s

All fixed belays

Approach

Drive up val d´Champorcher from Hône via route SR2 and drive trough the village of Dondenaz.

Follow the winding road that goes into a dirt road. From the road there is a sign for Lac Raty (9A). Follow that until a big open field which is crossed at the lower part and look for a faint footpath that heads to the bace of the rock face.

Follow the path under the face leftwards and on some small ledges with herbs, the route starts just before the small diedre formation, sign ”Diamante". 20min walk

Descent

Walk of back towards the parking, follow the cairns. Approx 1h

// Det krävs alltid några krossade ägg för att fixa en god omelett.