Sep 14, 2016

Eperon Süd Aiguille du Mid , voie Guiffra Monaci

Eperon Süd Aiguille du Mid , voie Guiffra Monaci

Picture from Camptocamp

  Eperon Süd on Aig. du Midi has a couple or actually a number of good routes, bolted as well as self protected on own pro.
The most famous one is once again the Rebuffat route but its neighbor to its left is just as nice and involves a couple of good pitches up solid rock. Well ok, the first couple of strenuous meters might be a bit crusty. 

Stressful as usual at Midi téléphérique September is the thing!

  The second pitch is a most beautiful crack system, which sadly is bolted!, but if ignored has a semi long section with nice jamming up a hand and fist crack. Easily protected, even with out clipping the bolts.
Pitch three is the most variated pitch and has a close to 40m climb up solid Chamonix granite with some interesting moves but always well protected on pitons and own pro.

Second pitch of Guiffra Monaci

The last section is divided in two short pitches but is easiest to organize in one long pitch, ending on the lower section of the classic Arete des Cosmiques.

  Overall its a straight forward route, good pro, good cracks and a perfect route as on this day with bad weather and thunder moving in on the afternoon.
Also you get the bonus of climbing the Cosmiques aerie as a finish up to Midi. 
If you don´t freak out and rappel back down that is. Better then to take a light rack, quick shoes and finish the route.

Voie Guiffra Monaci. +250m 6a max, 5c obl.
50m rope
1 small (very small) selection of mid size nuts.
Green-Red Alien
1.0-3.0 BD Camalot
Equipment for glacier travel

From the top station of Midi go down the arete and traverse under Midi south face and to the left side of Eperon.
Head for the most obvious crack system starting on the left side which levers over to the middle section of the Eperon.

Topo view at camp to camp

Just before the weather moves in,...

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