The anchors as well as the spits has recently been re-bolted with glue in bolts, making it a totally different experience.
It involves 13 pitches of great climbing up to the top of Pélerin. And in all a great day out in some of the best granit of Massif du Mont Blanc.
The approach from Plan de l´aiguille is easily done just following the path towards the north face / refuge du Grand Mulet. And then just turn off towards Pélérin over the upper snowfields (at lest earlier in the season)
If its been a colder period, or very early in the morning, it might be a good option to use crampons for the approach, but else worth it is justified with only an ice-axe and some stiffer boots to kick in steps.
|Premier pitch of le Mallion|
Pitch 2-4 is maximum 5c
Pitch 5-10 has beautiful 6a/6b climbing
Pitch 11 is a hard free climb of 7b or 6c/A0
And the the 2 last once 6a and 5c
In total 13 pitches of great climbing!
For the descent just rappel the same route with 2x50m ropes.
|Big terrain climbing on perfect granit @le mallion Manquant - Anna Backlund keeps the faith up|
|The 7b pitch - an adventure it self!|
Le Mallion Manquant
6b+/A0 or 7b
Aiguille du Pèlerin, staring from Téléphérique du Midi and Plan de l´aiguille
50meter rope (plus 50m for the descent alors 2x50m)
1 small set of nuts
2x Green - Red Alien
0.75-3 BD cams
Crampons / Ice-axe