Jul 16, 2018

Le Mallion Manquant - Aiguille du Pelerin

Aiguille Pèlerin 
  This route, Le Mallion Manquant, put up by the team of M. Armand, M. Piola, P. Starobinski, P. Strappazon, in september 1986 - has some for Piola classic friction moves over a couple of steep slabs. As well as a steep crack pitch!
The anchors as well as the spits has recently been re-bolted with glue in bolts, making it a totally different experience.

It involves 13 pitches of great climbing up to the top of Pélerin. And in all a great day out in some of the best granit of Massif du Mont Blanc.
The approach from Plan de l´aiguille is easily done just following the path towards the north face / refuge du Grand Mulet. And then just turn off towards Pélérin over the upper snowfields (at lest earlier in the season)
If its been a colder period, or very early in the morning, it might be a good option to use crampons for the approach, but else worth it is justified with only an ice-axe and some stiffer boots to kick in steps.
Premier pitch of le Mallion
Once at the base of the route, a bit to the right of "Voie Contamines" it sends over an open corner and then steeps out to the left to the first anchor. 40meters 5b...!
Pitch 2-4 is maximum 5c
Pitch 5-10 has beautiful 6a/6b climbing
Pitch 11 is a hard free climb of 7b or 6c/A0
And the the 2 last once 6a and 5c
In total 13 pitches of great climbing!

For the descent just rappel the same route with 2x50m ropes.

Piola slabs

Big terrain climbing on perfect granit @le mallion Manquant - Anna Backlund keeps the faith up 

The 7b pitch - an adventure it self!

Le Mallion Manquant
6b+/A0 or 7b

Aiguille du Pèlerin, staring from Téléphérique du Midi and Plan de l´aiguille

50meter rope (plus 50m for the descent alors 2x50m)
1 small set of nuts
2x Green - Red Alien
0.75-3 BD cams
8-9 QD´s
Crampons / Ice-axe

External link

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