Jul 28, 2018

Voie Hubal-Jumier - aiguilles des pèlerins

Voie Hubal-Jumier - aiguille du pèlerin

the Old man of Pèlerins

Aiguille des pèlerins may not be the most obvious peak seen from the valley of Chamonix. But at 3318mts its higher than its more known neighbor, aiguille du Peigne, but still more hidden.
Even though, it holds a few high quality and easily accessed routes via the Pèlerin glacier.
Most known is maybe the Grütter ridge, 5b/400mts. But if you look for a bit harder and shorter route, the Hubal-Jumier has a high quality crack problem laid out for you!
All the anchors are in good updated shape, re-bolted in 2014. But, the in situ is in a bit older fashion and might scare some people off. But if your ok with a bit mind/brain beating stuff, this is a nice day out.

The famous big queue´s a la Chamonix


The access is very easily done from l´Plan du aiguille. About 45min-1h to the base of the route. With a snow cover on the snow/ice field its not necessary with crampons. AN ice-axe might be useful though. Later in the season crampons might be of use.
Just follow the path passing the café and keep the hight towards Glacier des Pèlerins, and when the chemin turns towards Peigne, you just keep on traveling out towards the glacier and up to the lowest part of the pillar.
The route starts at an obvious flake/crack under a roof, with three old bolts and one piton. Belay under the roof.
The first pitch is a good 6a warm up. Just ignore the old bolts, or bring a big cam device!
Second pitch is an awkward one, graded 6b, oh la la, but it is a very athletic performance. Airy!
After this it gets easier climbing on a lot of great Chamonix granit. Its only the last summit ridge pitch which is a bit so so. The last rappel anchor could for sure have been placed a bit lower. But its ok.
Anna ont eh first pitch of Tubal-Jumier
In place bolts, but how much longer :-)

Descent back to l´Plan
1/ 6a / 40m Climb the crack and flake up under the the end of the white slab under the roof
2/ 6b / 40m Thin traverse out towards the roof. Many pitons in place. Swing over the roof and up an awkward thin crack. You will get rope drag!
3/ 6a / 25m Climb the thin curving crack right wards. In situ bolts, easier than it looks
4/ 6b / 30m Again a quite hard pitch, heading right over a small ledge and up easier cracks.
5/ 6a / 45m A great pitch! Going trough a sort of chimney installation. Squeeze and smile!
6/ 5a climbing up to the summit ridge

Rappel the same route 

2x50m rope
10-12 QD´s, depending if you want to clip all in-situ
Green-Red alien
0.75-3# Camelot, extra midsize (1-2 #4 cams if you want to add pro on the 1st pitch)
Small set of wires


Mont Blanc GRANITE vol 2
The 2dn pitch

Pitch 3, easy short 6a
The chimney Squeeze pitch!
//Ett samvete renat av glömskan

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