Sep 30, 2019

Moby Dick - Aig de Mesure

Aig de Mesure to the left

Want to get away from the crowds and looking for a nice steep route on solid Gneiss, here is one:
Moby Dick on Aiguille de Mesure!
Put up 2002 by mr Piola, with friends, its again a solid Piola route. But this one is well bolted with not to many run outs. Even on the easier pitches


After col des Montets continue towards le Buet. Just before the village there are a few parking spots on the right.
Take the first left (horizontal forest road that goes to the waterfall in Bérard), or park in the parking lot opposite (S 1365 m). Take this road for about 500 m. Then take a narrow path to the left (indicated Praz Torrent unfortunately invisible from the road).
This path leads to the head of Praz Torrent (point 1803 m). Continue towards the homonymous needles, then before the path really straighten (cairn next to a very large block), leave it to engage left in the Combe de l'Encrenaz towards the pass of the same name. Climb it back to the best (cairns and chamois). Pass near a bivouac then a large fractured block characteristic. Cross then the scree to join the opposite wall

Time 2h

The start is located roughly in line with the spilling area with roofs in a pretty colored wall.
The original departure is the one on the left. A few meters to the right is a variant for L1 / L2

The original quotations are 6a +, 6b +, 6b +, 6c, 6c +, 7b, 6c +, 6a, 6c +

2x50m rope
11 QD´s
Crampons might be good in the early summer

Take care on the rappels, some are quite airy...

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