Oct 13, 2019

la Chasse aux Trésors - Mont Oreb

 La Chasse aux trésors is an other great Piola route in the aiguille rouge massive.
It travels up some variated climbing cut in two different halves, 6 plus 6 pitches.
This route is to be find on Mont Oreb, 1h15min on the trail up vallon de Bérard from le Buet, Vallorcine.
Find the cairn at 1702m (46,01205N/6,88709E) and continue up right on the well marked path. This route starts quite far right on the falaise with the first bolt some 3-4m up on a broken slab.
The route Diamants de Sang is about 10m higher up to the left. to find Trésors just walk down passing ¨de Sang¨ towards a terasse of blocks

Approach up Vallon
This is a nice area with a couple of interesting routes which are getting more and more popular. But a good escape on warm days or when its to crowded in Chamonix
(Topo at the bottom of the page)
Mont Oreb
The first part
L1, 5b - a broken slab
L2, 5c - a slab and then a short diedre and a small roof
L3, 6a - Traversing leftwards
L4, 6b - the premier Piola slab, short crux section
L5, 6a+ - Some interesting slabs
L6, 4 - Pass 2 bolts and find a defuse trail rightwards

Walk up some steep grassy and rocky section more or less straight up to the base of a small diedre.
More to the left there is an other route with a lunule.
The belay is visible some 30m above

Second Part
L7, 6c - Start up a short slab aiming for a tricky looking diedre, which are protected with 3 bolts
L8, 6b+ - Traverse right over a couloir to a slab. A small roof up to the belay
L9, 6a+ - a nice crack section white looking rock to the left, 45m
L10, 6b+ - an engaging diedre on soli rock with a spectacular traverse out left to a pillar
L11, 6b+ - Continue up the red pillar, short crux at the top section, 45m
If rappelling stop here, if walking down its an other pitch of 5b with 5 bolts

Makes more or less the same way down, following the same sentier between the two sections, possible to make the rappels in 4 plus 3 rappels, the last is +50m
Take care of left equipment if there are Chamois around!


2x50m ropes, if rappelling back down
a couple of friends C4 size #0.3-#2
8 QD´s plus some free biners for belay

No comments:

Post a Comment