The Bétleguse, 260m 7a+ over 6 pitches. A devil in one of many names!
One of many superb pitches on Betelgeuse
The approach of this route, as well as all the other ones on this solid pice of rock, is a bit long and the closer you get the looser the so called path gets. From the parking below Ayères de perrieres aftershave plan Joux takes about 1 1/2h, if you choose the best way...!
Follow the trail towards ref. d'Anterne, just before the last virage head up left following the grass ridge. And stay as high as possible avoiding the loose open stone fields at the best.
Depending on season and amount of snow, there might be vise to walk in with a set of crampons for the snowfields, otherwise do as we, pick up a perfect pice of rock and improvise a "grotthuman" axe :)
Lori with an improvised grottaxe, worked then, works now!
This walls are quite high and exposed so there is maybe not always but often some breeze winds to cool of, and after 16:00 the sun transport it self of the face. And suddenly I start to ask my self "what was I thinking?" The t-shirt isn't that warm anymore, even if I put on more over...what was I thinking? Cussin stupid!
And the climbing, it's just amazing, perfect solid rock that goes on and on. Every move is pure quality that makes me forget the incontinent approach.
Strenuous climbing on perfect rock, rock on!
The first pitch is right on 6c+, a bit of a warm up but the second has the grade 6c with out a plus...but has some ankward move that makes it feel harder than nr one, we think at least. But who cares, just enjoy and focus!
Keep focus, well it's easy in this terrain
The pitches keeps coming on us, 6c, 6c, 7a,...a 6b?opps easy and then 7a...plus...
It's like someone has really built this thing a little to well, and the bolts! Are just were they should be!
Not on drugs I swear, except chalkin the nose...
What ever you do, water up!
Betelgeuse 7a+ 260m, 6pitches
2x48m rope, minimum:), 12 QD, and a nice shade or shades...
Picture from Vallèe l'Arve