Aug 29, 2013


Norske semester del lV, dag 4

Haugfjell, last mountain before the border and a perfect spot to enjoy the last day of the holiday climbing tour

A new route on Storsteinsfjell followed by an endurance climb on Eidetind and then a solo race on Stetinds South pillar. 3 days of intensive climbing. So some small craging on this easy accessed north northeast wall makes a good plan. Only issue is last nights heavy raining, might be wet sort off

But, since I'm anyhow passing the place and the approach is done in about 10min walk, it's ok just to have a look see. Off course the main wall was still wet but since I have climbed the routes up there before I didn't mind just to look around a bit more. First finding a short boulder crack close to the path, suddenly the walk in had paid back!

A glance further down to the east turns out to have some interesting stuff as well. And a huge off width up the wall, quite short but still, I'm not a tall guy either...

At the base it sure feels small, specially after the last days climbs. But I pull out the gear and rack up. It will be fun I tell my self and start climbing the fist muddy meters. The crack is filled up with moss but a bit of cleaning and it will be fine. Up to a small roof which has this perfect hand crack that turns into a ring lock up to a free hanging ledge or something similar

Up the small corner I find myself pulling on moss, grass and bushes. Which all comes of when I rappel back to actually clean the pitch

Next one is a most interesting off width protected with a no#4 Camalot at the base before it gets to small, sending me on a 7-8 meter run out. I said its gonna be fun!

Again up on a ledge, big one this time, I walk over it crossing up to a small short dihedral that takes me up to the footpath descending from the summit.

Brutna Sällskap, 3pitches 6+

And just to the base of some established routes going up some nice cracks, left and right. So I climb both of them in turns, the right one turning out to be pretty stiff

Summit crack at Haugfjell, established since before

Rappelling back down to clean the last short pitch I only have to enjoy clogging the pitch back up. Climbing trip is over and done for this time

Easy descente down the ladders...

But still, a nice dinner waiting over at Anders and Merjas place! And then back to work, out on the slowly dissapering other story

Stetind showes it's best side

Haugfjell - You need
50mrope, 1set of stoppers, 1set of Camalots 0.5-4.0, 6-8QD's (Aliens and micro stoppers might be useful for some of the thinner crack lines)
Arriving from the Swedish side there is a small dirt roade turning to the left just after the wind turbine, follow this for about 200m, parking site. And then just follow the foot path, the wall is on obvious.
A full topo is found at, look for "dancing on the devils dance floor"

//S & S, a smile solves any problem, silence keeps you out at first place...


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