The north west pillar on the upper part of Peigne has some well kept secret cracks. Well, maybe not so secret since they are visible from the village of Cham. But anyhow
Cracks that Monsieur Rebuffat off course has found out and climbed long time ago. But still holds its grade and gives some great pitches of everything from fingers, rattle, up to heavy duty off width!
The alarm set on to early I feel a lot for just staying in my comfortable bed. But after a couple of snoozes I pull myself out and get downstairs for a good coffee to start with
I can't really see the point if heading away with the first lift for this small, short and quite easy tour...
Our plan, head up to plan de aiguille, walk up to Peigne and climb Lepidoptere. And then scramble up to the upper face and the NO pillar of the Peigne. The beautiful Rebuffat cracks, which is said to seldom be climbed
One reason off course would be that it's loong way to get to, second that its supposed to be quite hard regarding the altitude and grade, up to UIAA VII/6c
Arriving at the base their is an other team just heading off the second pitch. But Lepidoptere is a quite active route so not suprised. We just take it slow for a while giving them some time
A super cold morning makes one mostly want to keep to "slabjamming", fist wise sort off...The first pitches up to the Papillon arête goes quick and easy, despite the cold air. At some places their is even a thin layer of ice covering the rock. But it's easy to avoid. Up at the arête we can finally get some heating sun on our frozen souls and the going goes even easier
After a pitch of airy but easy climbing on the arête we continue climbing together just short roping. But it's quite a lot of scrambling to get to the upper wall, but all on very easy terrain
At 12:00 we are happily standing below the first Rebuffat pitch. And to our surprise one more team as well with the same intention. A team from Tasmania off all places!
We share some belays and stories but at the finger crack crux they decide to take it a bit slower so we leave them behind
The finger crack
Actually seen all the way from the valley and Cham the crack is just as good as it looks. Perfect fingers at the start getting a bit wider up to hands and open fist higher up. Finishing up to a big ledge below the next interesting part, the off width!
A no#4 cam supports the firsts moves but after a #6 would have been the only choice, or even bigger... Just great excellent climbing on perfect Chamonix granit!
Then it's a short section of easy climbing again before the twin crack pitch. Which also holds an open dièdre and a very suspect downward section that is just made to give some rope drag of the year. Just make sure not to clip the pitons or place any gear. Otherwise you will probably need to climb back to free the rope. Or, maybe the use of twin ropes would be good at this point...?!
My single lead rope would be a nightmare so I continue without placing any gear. But, since the climbing is easy on more brilliant cracks that's no issue
Next thing I know I'm under the summit it self. And judge of my suprise... A train scoup is to be found on the top!
Time to head down... To a loong waiting cup of java and a nice bivvy for next days climbing...
1x60m rope(ok for the rappels as well) 1 small set of mid size wires, cams up to #4 Camalot (2 of 0.5-1.0) 5QD's minimum
// att definiera betyder att utestänga och begränsa...